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  1. #1
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    Adding grip to pressure treated lumber

    We've built a wooden bridge using pt lumber so that beginners can ride over The Wooden Cross. The Wooden Cross is an advanced ttf. This new section makes it rideable for everyone. Non-pt lumber only lasts for about 4 years and breaks while riding on it. Such features as The Boardwalk have proven this to us. Pt is the obvious choice around here.
    With that said, we're trying not to spend a ton of money. Chicken wire doesn't work that well since it lays flat and rust away. People keep recommending sand-in-paint, but I know as a fact that it doesn't stick to pt lumber. I've roughed the 5/4 decking material with a chainsaw before, but if it's wet, it doesn't really matter. Shingles get ridden off and with the -20* to 100* temps we have around here, I think they'll rip off and not adhere that well.
    My latest thought is Herculiner. Though it was originally made for truck beds, they also advertise it to have "101 uses". One use is decking. Has anyone tried this on pt lumber? How's it work? Any prep work needed?
    A buddy recommended asphalt roofing paper. He said that he rode it in Florida and it was very tacky. But again, it's a completely different climate here.

    Any recommendations are appreciated. Ttyl, Fahn

  2. #2
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    What part of the country? Here in the Seattle area (maybe can generalize to the whole PNW, maybe not), I found PT lumber very slippery when new (and in near-freezing temps), but it dries out quickly and stays reasonably grippy (or at least not too slippery) as long as people are riding/walking on it regularly. The last boardwalk I worked on was very slippery at first (late November) and I thought we'd have to try the sand-in-paint thing, but now I think we're fine without any additional measures. Of course, if it gets really, really cold and/or snows, probably no countermeasures will be totally effective.

  3. #3
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    I ate it hard on a slick bridge 2 weeks ago and I was going in a straight line, stuff is unpredictable.

    But what about those adhesive stair tread grips that are like sandpaper? I always thought those would be a good idea. They never seem to come off on concrete anyway, maybe the glue would work well with the wood? But it's a thought.
    -Eric
    Keeping the hardtail dream alive, one ride at a time.

  4. #4
    I wreck alot
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    Looking further down on this page for a thread about this.

    Slick bridges

  5. #5
    I build my own.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoWal_MTBer View Post
    Looking further down on this page for a thread about this.

    Slick bridges
    Galvanized lath will last about as long as your PT wood, keeps it's grip and stays flat.

    This is the link to the light duty stuff at Home Depot.
    27 in. x 8 ft. Steel Lath-2.5 METAL LATH at The Home Depot

    There are a variety of sizes and applications.
    Sheet or coil products slit then expanded to create diamond shaped patterns of specified dimensions.

    Some are very heavy duty. I've used it on it's own as decking.
    I have a device that can access the total knowledge of man. I use it to look at pictures of cats and argue with strangers.

  6. #6
    You down with entropy?
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    around here (Michigan) we have a few curved bridges that needed some grip. We went with some galvanized metal wire mesh fencing. This was after considering the sang in paint or varnish ideas. Chicken wire was also ruled out.

    something like :
    Galvanized Wire Mesh - 14 Gauge - FarmTek

    it may not be quite as heavy as 14 gauge, but it has held up fine over the 2.5 years it has been out there so far.

  7. #7
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    this stuff is price but it's the best. works better then anything else i've seen.

    SYNTA INC 49005 "Restore" Deck Restore Kit - Amazon.com

    Also the whole needs to use PT is a big misconception. Plus the stuff leches bad chemicals in to the ground. I hate the stuff, I rarely use it anymore. Maybe a 4x4 post or a stringer that needs to be in the ground a lot. Rough milled ceder is the best, hem/fur 2x6 works well too.

    My family has a deck at our lake place, it is 2x6 hem/fur and 15+ years old. One board in that life time has broke, cuz a tree fell on it. It sits a few feet above water year around.

    If your hem/fur is open to the air on all side it will last a long time. PT is made from a weaker wood and i've seen more issues with it then hem/fur. It's toxic crap. Don't waste money on PT, find a mill to mill you up some true-by ceder boards for decking (2"+).
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  8. #8
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    I've used sand mixed with exterior latex floor paint with much success. Has held up in most spots for almost 8 years on PT wood. A note on Cedar...there is a huge difference in rot resistance between Eastern Red Cedar and Western Red Cedar. The Eastern variety is not nearly as rot resistant as the Western kind and will rot out in as few as 6 years in contact with the ground. The newer treatment for PT wood is much more environmentally friendly and has lasted a long time here. Sometimes you can use Locust but it's usually only found in the mountains which does us no good in the NC Piedmont area. Also our PT wood is Southern Yellow Pine which is strong and lite.

  9. #9
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    Consider 3-tab roofing shingles.

  10. #10
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    I've been using valspar non-skid exterior paint for about 2 years now. It's been holding up well with zero maintenance.

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