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  1. #1
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    Good job! Time ATAC pedal rebuild

    After looking around on the web I didn't find much in terms of how to rebuild Time ATAC pedals. I decided to take mine apart and service them so here are some pics to walk anyone through the process. Go ahead... it's easy!

    While not required, it makes this job go a lot easier if you have some sort of axle vice to put the pedal in like a Park AV4.
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    Gather up the necessary tools for the job. 10mm socket, c-ring pliers, pedal wrench, center punch, mallet, small screwdriver, some prep m or suitable bushing grease, penerating oil for pivots and optionally a drill and scotch brite pad.

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    Clamp the pedal in he vice and loosen the end cap with your c-ring pliers
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    remove the nylon lock nut with your 10mm socket
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    Supporting the pedal in a vice or someting that will let the axle come out, tap out the axle with a center punch.
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    before
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    after
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    pop out the seal with a small screwdriver and clean off all the old grease and dirt with a shop towel
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    clean and ready for assembly
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    These pedals were on my winter commuter and the axles didn't look very nice. Corrosion from all the road salt left them looking worse for wear. I put the axle in my drill and spun while pinched in a scotch brite pad and it got everything back to near-new appearance.
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    all cleaned up and ready for reassembly
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    put a good amount of grease inside the pedal on the bushings as well as some around the top before pressing the seal back in place. Slide the axle in, tighten up the 10mm nut and re-install the end cap (reverse of what you did to take them apart). Don't forget to put a drop of penetrating oil on the 4 corners of the pedal where the bales pivot on the pins and you are ready to ride.
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    Last edited by BikeLust; 04-10-2013 at 09:21 AM.
    MCM #269

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  2. #2
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    Thanks for that!

  3. #3
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    Nice, I may use this one day as I have the same pedals.

  4. #4
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    Yep. It's easy. I'm not sure why I didn't do mine sooner. They weren't too bad inside but it only takes a few minutes to keep them running like new.
    MCM #269

    "Lightweight , durable , inexpensive
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the post, when I was trying to figure this out I was able to find a picture tutorial somewhere online... maybe it's no longer out there.

    As far as I know, you don't want the axle to be mirror smooth in the area where the bushing sits, it might end up squealing.

  6. #6
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    Good point. The picture should be more accurate in that I only polished the portion from the seal to where the pedal threads in to the crank to remove the surface corrosion. When I did my axles with the drill that was in fact the only part I polished.
    MCM #269

    "Lightweight , durable , inexpensive
    Pick 2."

  7. #7
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    Just discovered your instructions. Thanks for these, I have 3 sets of these pedals and all need service. I have wanted to learn to maintain them myself, so your instructions are right on time for me. I have a question though - my pedals all have a bit of play in them. Does this mean the bushings should be replaced? Or will a rebuild by itself take care of this?

    Thanks, Repo.

  8. #8
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    For the very short amount of time it takes to rebuild, I would just try the rebuild first before ordering bushings. You are right that a worn bushing will create slop, but the bearing cap when snugged up will also remove some of the play at the axle, so it may not be necessary. One of my pedals was very loose and I thought it was the bushing, but all that was required to snug things up was a 1/4 twist of the one bearing cap. They now spin freely with only a slightest bit of side play. In fact, they spin better than the new pair I just put on my wife's bike.
    MCM #269

    "Lightweight , durable , inexpensive
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  9. #9
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    Thanks, I'll give it a try and see if the basic rebuild does the job.

  10. #10
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    I'd be really interested in a pictorial on how to overhaul the rest of the pedal, like springs, pins, all that. I have never been able to find good instructions anywhere.

  11. #11
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    I haven't tried it myself as all of my pedals still seem to be fine. That said, I do recall seeing someone who broke a bale on a rock strike and had to replace. I think you just tap out the pin with a punch, replace the necessary parts then press the pin back in.
    MCM #269

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  12. #12
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    Just finished this rebuild on 3 sets of ATACs. Took about an hour overall, including some first time fumbling. All three sets spinning smooth like never before. One set of old Aliums probably need new innards as they are still a bit wobbly after the procedure. Thanks for posting, this was a great excuse to buy a couple new tools and learn something new! Repo...

  13. #13
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    I know this is an old thread but wondering if anyone knows what size the outer bearing is on the Roc Atac S, or, if just a single bearing can be ordered.
    Just had one frag on me.
    Thanks
    04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro
    Airborne Ti HT
    Trek Rigid SS - No suspension, no gears....no problem

  14. #14
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    For anyone needing the info, your lbs can order these outer bearings from Enduro,
    part # 696 2RS.
    Perfect fit and less than $8.
    04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro
    Airborne Ti HT
    Trek Rigid SS - No suspension, no gears....no problem

  15. #15
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    Good stuff.


    How about older TIMEs? I can't find any (real) data, other than a one page from an old bike mag, and that isn't at all comprehensive.


    Older ones like these.

    .




    .

  16. #16
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    All you can do is take them apart and bring the bearing specs to your lbs. All I had to give them was the width, OD, and ID and they looked it up.
    Good luck.
    04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro
    Airborne Ti HT
    Trek Rigid SS - No suspension, no gears....no problem

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