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  1. #1
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    square taper crank pulling

    Does anyone know how I can remove my square taper cranks without a puller? I have some creaking going on down there and I guess I should investigate before things get worse.

  2. #2
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
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    A crank puller is cheap compared to the damage you can do without one.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  3. #3
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    Yeah, but it's $25 shipping to Canada. Not so cheap with the exchange rate. Next time I make a big order from pricepoint or jenson I'll get one. Just looking for a way around it in the meantime. May have to go to the bike shop.

  4. #4
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    Your local bike shop should be able to sell you one for $10-$15. Be sure to pick one that does, in fact, work on square-taper cranks (as opposed to Octalink/ISIS).

  5. #5
    WooHoo Biking!!!!
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    I would agree with everyone else. . .get the puller, it is worth the money, plus, you will be able to pull cranks for the rest of your life.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm just learning this stuff. It's nice to be able to ask before I go pounding away and wreck stuff.

  7. #7
    ride like you stole it
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    one thing you can try to is to find a bolt that will thread into the crank where the puller would go, but this only works if you already have a pile of fairly sizable bolts laying around.
    I lubed my disc brakes because they squeaked.
    Man was that fun to work out

  8. #8
    Suffers From Binge Biking
    Reputation: marsh rider's Avatar
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    I unintentionally loosened a square taper crank when I overlooked a loose crank arm bolt. On my next ride uphill, I quickly felt the the crank start to flop back and forth. I tightened the bolt and no damage was done.

    So if you're trying to take the crank off, you can just remove the bolt and then hammer up and down your street 'till it falls off. Some people consider this a destructive removal technique, but I didn't notice any damage and everything is still quiet and working fine.
    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

  9. #9
    A wheelist
    Reputation: Mike T.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by groverino
    Yeah, but it's $25 shipping to Canada. Not so cheap with the exchange rate. Next time I make a big order from pricepoint or jenson I'll get one. Just looking for a way around it in the meantime. May have to go to the bike shop.
    Good grief. We have to do everything for ya? Shop at MEC

    It won't link directly to the $13 puller but I bet ya can find it.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  10. #10
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    I would recommend just getting the puller, it's cheap and makes the job take only seconds. If you try to loosen it by riding with no bolt then you risk damaging the interface, or the crank falling off and damaging yourself.

  11. #11
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    Bought a puller yesterday. Thanks to all for the advice.

  12. #12
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spcarter
    one thing you can try to is to find a bolt that will thread into the crank where the puller would go, but this only works if you already have a pile of fairly sizable bolts laying around.
    And just what exactly would that accomplish?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  13. #13
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by groverino
    Bought a puller yesterday. Thanks to all for the advice.
    If your's came with multiple 'feet' (part that presses on the spindle), make sure you have the right size screwed in. If your 'foot' is too big, It'll just press against the crank and possibly cause the puller to press out and strip the crank's threads - It's easy to over look.

    You made the right call on getting the puller ...good luck!
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  14. #14
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    I took the cranks off today. The bolts were quite loose. I had greased the tapers when I intalleded the cranks, not realizing that most consider this a no no. I cleaned off the grease from the cranks and tapers, and put them back on dry with plenty of torque. This time I put blue loctite on the bolts as well. The problem appears to be solved, with no damage to the cranks.

  15. #15
    A wheelist
    Reputation: Mike T.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by groverino
    I took the cranks off today. The bolts were quite loose. I had greased the tapers when I intalleded the cranks, not realizing that most consider this a no no. I cleaned off the grease from the cranks and tapers, and put them back on dry with plenty of torque. This time I put blue loctite on the bolts as well. The problem appears to be solved, with no damage to the cranks.
    You trying to start WWIII around here Grover? The "grease or no grease tapers" has raged on & off for the ten+ years that I've been here. I thought we were over that one now that (for most people) tapered spindles are gathering dust. If your mind is made up about how to fit them then fine. I won't bother telling you what's worked for me for 5 decades.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  16. #16
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    Sorry. My mind isn't made up at all. Just new to the whole thing. The grease no doubt had nothing to do with the problem. Just thought I'd try both ways.

  17. #17
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
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    I am undoubtedly opening a can of spring-loaded fake snakes here but...
    I grease my Squares... no prob after 15+ years...
    Grease allows the fitting not to 'pre-bind' - causing a false 'tight'...The thing is not to Over-Torque!
    The same idea applies with many metal to metal fittings.(screws, bolts, pressure-fits, etc)
    Over and over re-installations will eventually stretch out a ST crank, but allowing it (the crank) to get to it's 'home' a few times is a good thing... (I think Martha Stewart talks a bout this in a book)

    The thing with 'pressure-fits' like Square-Tapers is there are no hard and fast rules IMO. - "Snug it up - it, then give it one more crank" is my rule - loosely
    If it breaks loose...ya did something wrong.


    *EDIT - 5 decades Mike? - Are you cryogenically frozen up there
    Last edited by highdelll; 03-31-2009 at 04:41 PM.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  18. #18
    human dehumidifier
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    I'm a rebel, just bought a new UN-54 tapered bb for my single speed. Don't need no new fangled cranks here - yet.

    I grease the drive side, and leave the other side dry. Or is it the other way around? I forget.

    Read this and feel your head spin round http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/i...ng-cranks.html
    NFL will punish America for its sins with Katy Perry as the Super Bowl halftime show.

  19. #19
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by wv_bob
    I'm a rebel, just bought a new UN-54 tapered bb for my single speed. Don't need no new fangled cranks here - yet.
    I grease the drive side, and leave the other side dry. Or is it the other way around? I forget.
    Pffftttt I had you beat on this subject years ago with the fence-sitting politician's fix -

    On one side of the bike -
    • Grease one taper.
    • Leave the next one dry.
    • The third one, use loc-tite.
    • The fourth one - use bacon grease.


    Reverse the order on the other side of the bike.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

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