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  1. #1
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    Repairing fork threads

    I've begun a restoration of an old Shogun hybrid. It has 26" wheels, caliper brakes, and a 1" threaded steerer. During disassembly yesterday I found that a section of the fork threads were damaged between an upper and lower locknut (it had the threaded race, a locknut, some spacers, and then another locknut). The damage happened at some unknown time in this bike's past.

    I see that Park Tool sells a fork threading die set (FTS-1) which might allow me to repair the threads. But it's $150-250 at most places I've seen.

    Has anyone had luck finding an appropriately sized die at Sears or some other place? Any other tricks?

    I know I could just buy a new fork, but I'd like to repair the existing fork if possible. Here's a photo of the damage:

    Repairing fork threads-20140202_102857.jpg

  2. #2
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    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
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    Most lbs's would probably chase that for you for about $10.

  3. #3
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    Good point, I didn't even think of that. I like to do my own work, but it is hard to justify $150+ for a tool that would get used very, very rarely.

  4. #4
    Plays with tools
    Reputation: customfab's Avatar
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    Find a bike shop that's been in business for more than 20 years and they will have the tools to do that. Since 1" threaded steers have been obsolete for about 15 most shops that have opened in the last decade wouldn't bother investing in that tool either.

  5. #5
    Humanoid Lobster
    Reputation: Jak0zilla's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, that damage is caused by the "locking" tab on the washer rotating. Often reflector brackets mounted under the locknut cause this when they inevitably get jostled side-to-side.

    You do not need to use a tabbed washer, in fact they are getting quite rare now that threadless rules the land. If the locknut is properly torqued down you'll not have any issues with it loosening with a round washer.

    The threading is 1"x24tpi, which IS a commonly available die size. If you have access to a handle to borrow, a brand new die will cost you $25-30 if you decide you want to do the work yourself. As noted above, it is probably more cost effective to pay a shop to chase the threads.

    In a pinch you can carefully thread a steel threaded adjustable cup down the steerer (I did say carefully) and it will clean the threads enough to reassemble the parts. (Slightly hack-ish, but it works in a pinch.)
    Don't call it a gooseneck.

  6. #6
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    Great info, thanks everyone! I'll check around locally to see if I can find a 1"x24 die. If not, LBS it is...

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