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  1. #1
    dmo
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    Race face cranset not spinning smoothly

    Something is not right with the Race face crankset I'm trying to install. I had taken it off another bike and it had been working fine. I've also installed the RF BB and cinch crankset before with out problem but this time when I tighten everything down the crank arms don't spin freely. It's as if there is a ton of friction keeping them from rotating.

    I'm not sure what I did wrong. I greased the BB shell as well as the threads of the BB cups. Greased the spindle and inserted the non drive side crank arm into the BB. I placed the drive side crank arm into the splines and tightened the spindle bolt. Once doing that everything tightened up. I tried loosening the preload collar but that didn't help.

    I've done this before without problem but this time I'm missing something. Should I take everything apart and start over? What did I screw up?

    Thanks

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  2. #2
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    Dont think its suppose to spin freely with that preload. Mine spins about 1 revolution. It almost sounds like your BB bearings arent parallel to each other.

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  3. #3
    dmo
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    Mine don't spin at all

    I have to push the crank to get it to move

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  4. #4
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    My train of thought:
    -Are you 100% certain that the spindle length of the crankset is appropriate for the bottom bracket it's going into?
    -Are the bearings free to spin without the crankset installed?
    -Is the preload adjuster able to spin while the crankset is installed

    If the bearings are free to spin, then they're either getting pinched tight on the inner races (if spindle was too short, etc), or there's something that's pinching the outer race that shouldn't be. Anything that spins shouldn't touch the outer race or bottom bracket, so if there's anything that could be out of place and is squeezing both the inner and outer race, that would be an issue.

  5. #5
    dmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by acedeuce802 View Post
    My train of thought:
    -Are you 100% certain that the spindle length of the crankset is appropriate for the bottom bracket it's going into?
    -Are the bearings free to spin without the crankset installed?
    -Is the preload adjuster able to spin while the crankset is installed

    If the bearings are free to spin, then they're either getting pinched tight on the inner races (if spindle was too short, etc), or there's something that's pinching the outer race that shouldn't be. Anything that spins shouldn't touch the outer race or bottom bracket, so if there's anything that could be out of place and is squeezing both the inner and outer race, that would be an issue.
    Thanks. That was helpful. I'll go over it again. I think maybe I have too many spacers

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmo View Post
    Thanks. That was helpful. I'll go over it again. I think maybe I have too many spacers

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    I had this same issue once. Didn't realize the BB shell on the new bike was 73mm. The old one was 68mm. So i had to remove 2 of the BB spacers to on the new bike because the 73mm BB only uses one spacer where the 68 uses 3. this may be your issue.
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  7. #7
    dmo
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    Ya, I think that's my issue. Where does the spacer go for the 73mm BB?

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  8. #8
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    Spacer placement is usually covered in instructions for a particular BB but my last build was a 68 that was cut a little smaller so I threw a 1.5mm spacer on the side the cranks were closest to the chainstays. Scientific? Nope, but it worked.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmo View Post
    Ya, I think that's my issue. Where does the spacer go for the 73mm BB?

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    Cinch crank, threaded bottom bracket. This should help out. http://www.raceface.com/media/B30067-B-Web.pdf
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  10. #10
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    I physically measured the distance between the crank arm and chainstay and try to get it the same.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Dont think its suppose to spin freely with that preload. Mine spins about 1 revolution.
    Yes, they should spin perfectly fine with the preload properly adjusted. There should be no notable resistance. With the chain off, mine will easily spin more than a dozen revolutions if not more.
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  12. #12
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    The dust seals usually provide some resistance. Ive never been able to spin my crank and have it spin a dozen revolutions.

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  13. #13
    chasing simplicity
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    Iím sure the answer is obvious, but itís a brand new bb right? Instructions for spacers are usually included.
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  14. #14
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    Are you removing the chain (just taking it off of the chain ring)? That's really the only way to check the freedom and smoothness of the crank assembly. You should be getting way more than just one revolution of the crank.

    Yes, the dust seals will provide some resistance. I use a light grease light like Slick Honey on these to minimize friction and still provide and adequate dust/water barrier.
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  15. #15
    dmo
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    ...its wasn't a brand new bb. I didn't realize it was going from 68 to 73mm shell and had to many spacers. I installed the correct spacers and everything worked great.

    I figured it was something dumb

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  16. #16
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    Just as a note regarding BB friction...this is going to have multiple variables that could factor into the coefficient of friction.

    Primarily, the grease used and how much of it. I prefer to use a light bearing grease like Buzzy's Slick Honey because of its viscosity. I'm sure if you are using a thicker, marine type grease, you are going to experience much more rotational friction.

    I'm using a Wheels Manufacturing Threaded BB.
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  17. #17
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    Thx for the input. Now i need to look at my own BB. I use an angular contact external threaded BB from enduroforkseals. My preloader is backed all the way out but its smooth and i can get 1-2 revs without the chain. I might need to add 1-2mm spacer and fine tune with the preload. Not really sure if it'll make much of a difference in saving power fighting that resistance but now its gonna be on my mind. You need to push against the angular contact bearings with the preload a little as i was told.

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