Uses the "between-centers" design like some motorbike wheel stands, and the VAR unit. Takes a second longer to load, but holds it very accurately. Absolutely bomber. Very happy with it.
Ah, I didn't catch that. I was actually wondering if there was a better end for my dial indicator (something non-metallic) that I could use. Now I know the answer. :thumbsup:
What type of material is your work bench top made from?
Awesome truing stand.
If you found a suitable size aluminium cookie sheet it could make for a nice tray to top your base and prevent things from rolling onto the floor....or better yet, stainless
The wooden top is from an old-school solid-wood-core door. I found it on craigslist for cheap, and it was mint with no holes drilled in it at all. Routered the edge 1/2" round and 3 coats of satin oil based varathane. Like it a lot.
The indicator is a nice tool, once you learn to use it right, and figure the right tolerances involved.
For solid axles, I have made end caps with a hole for the guide pins.
It does however take a few different caps, to be able to work on any hub type around.
The good news is, that it takes 15 minutes to make a pair.
Yes, I do need to make some axle adaptors for solid axle hubs. I've got a Rohloff and an Alfine, so I will need them. The alfine has such a kooky thread (3/8-26 I think?) which is non-standard, so first I have to special order a tap!
Alternatively, I was thinking of making some tips that would thread onto the rods that would have the opposite of centers - like inside out cones. That would work with all solid axles right up to huge 14mm BMX, with just one set of adaptors.
A few of you asked about the handle. It's from a sample CNC'ed screwdriver project they were running at my school. I got a few of the blanks and modified them. I converted one of them into a really nice pokey tool for opening up the ends of cut housing.
Next project is a super clean and accurate spoke tensiometer associated tensiometer calibrator.
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