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  1. #1
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    My $55 home built workstand...

    I decided to build my own workstand. This thread is the one that inspired me:

    DIY Portable/Adjustable Bike Repair Stand

    The OP has a link to his blog that shows a lot of the step-by-step instructions. I'll just show what I did differently.

    $7.97 - 3/4" x 24" Pipe
    $13.97 - 3/4" Pipe Clamp
    $4.00 - 1" Black Tee
    $2.52 - 1" x 6" Nipple
    $2.52 - 1" x 6" Nipple
    $1.87 - 1" Split Ring Hanger
    $1.04 - Thumb Screw
    $1.18 - Two Hose Clamps
    $20.00 - PA Stand (CraigsList)

    $55.07 Total

    Instead of using a mouse pad for the clamp padding, I used liquid electrical tape. This stuff is similar to plasti-dip but you can paint it on. I've painted the hooks for my car mounted bike rack to keep the metal from scratching the paint on my trunk. It worked very well. I used some softwood (cedar) for the camp heads and figure that should be soft enough to not damage the tubing. I won't crank it down with all of my might, anyway...

    On his blog, several people had problems fitting the 3/4" pipe into the 1" pipe due to the weld seam on the inside of the 1" pipe. I had the same issue. I wrapped some sandpaper around a paint roller extension and sanded down the inside of the 1" pipe. Quick and worked well.

    My  home built workstand...-img_8054.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7745.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7746.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7752.jpg


    The 1" pipe was a bit too large diameter for the PA stand I had. I drilled three 3/8" holes in the neck, slotted them to the end, and used hose clamps (instead of rivets) to secure the head assembly to the stand. This way I can re-use the stand for other stuff (holding a fan, set of lights, or whatever) when I'm not working on a bike.

    My  home built workstand...-img_7996.jpg

    To keep the 3/4" pipe from rotating, I used a 1" split-ring hanger and a thumb screw.

    My  home built workstand...-img_8002.jpg

    The pipe clamp I bought came with a spring that you can thread onto the end of the 3/4" pipe to keep it from pulling all the way out. I used piliers to bend the ends of the ring upwards to make it easier to install and remove.

    My  home built workstand...-img_7997.jpg

    A few other detail photos before painting...

    My  home built workstand...-img_7999.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_8001.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_8000.jpg
    Last edited by marpilli; 01-01-2012 at 09:08 AM.

  2. #2
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    Teardown, masked and painted...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8003.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8005.jpg

    Here's the money shots...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8035.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8038.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8039.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8040.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8041.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8042.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8043.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8044.jpg

  3. #3
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    My  home built workstand...-img_8045.jpg

    Holding up the heavy Yukon...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8046.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8047.jpg

    Folded up...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8048.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8052.jpg

  4. #4
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    Totally digging it


    ***

  5. #5
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    Awesome stand man! I forgot you had one of those old Yukon's (not sure if you remember my 1x7?), I'm still trying to find the time and energy to get my stand finished, I did a very similar clamp design as you. I had a thread on it that I will have to find sometime

  6. #6
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    There it is, haven't read through this in awhile

    What clamps do you suggest for my repair stand?

    p.s. +repz to you for the stand!

  7. #7
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    very nice!

  8. #8
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    Sasquatch, I remembered you had a (I think the same) Yukon. I still think yours was older than you think it was.

    What I really like about this stand is how modular it is. If you have just a bench vise, you can buy the 24" 3/4 dia. pipe and just build the clamp head.

    No vise? Build the 1" tee and buy a 1" pipe flange. Screw the flange into your workbench and the tee into the flange.

    No bench? No PA stand? Build some type of base, attach flange and appropriate length of 1" pipe.

    Lots of variations possible with this type of design.

    Edit: I just read through the thread you posted. How did I miss that? I've never heard of panel bonding adhesive. That looks like a great solution and I might have taken that route if I had known. Ah, well. Ideas for workstand v2.0 already being written down.
    Last edited by marpilli; 12-31-2011 at 09:31 PM.

  9. #9
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    I've seen some pretty hokey homemade stands over the years. this one is top notch.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    I've seen some pretty hokey homemade stands over the years. this one is top notch.
    Ha, i thought you were going to say this was the "hokey-est" or something.

    Thank you for the compliment.

  11. #11
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    What year are the Yukon's marpilli? All the research I have done leads me to believe mine was a '95..Component-wise they are definitely no older than '92 or '93. And yeah the panel bond is great stuff, great for all sorts of repairs even though it was designed to basically replace welding in certain areas on automotive body panels

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    What year are the Yukon's marpilli? All the research I have done leads me to believe mine was a '95..Component-wise they are definitely no older than '92 or '93.
    When I first bought the bike, I started a thread to help me idenfiy the year:
    Old Giant Yukon "MTB" - How to tell the year?

    From the info I gained out of the thread:
    * My frame was manufactured in November, 1991 (serial number decode).
    * The Shimano 200GS groupset was only produced in 1991/1992.
    * There was no Yukon in 91 (It was still the Butte).

    This leads me to believe it's a 1992 Yukon (first production year).

    If I remember correctly, your Yukon was the same color scheme and had the 200GS groupset.

    It still rides great and shifts fine after I rejuvinated the shifters. I put 2.1" Kenda K-Rad tires on it, a steel riser bar (narrow), and new grips. It's a lot of fun to ride around.

  13. #13
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    Well then I must have owned a '92 really wish I kept that thing even though the frame was a size too small for me..

  14. #14
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    I followed yours and the OP DIY and I still can not fit the 3/4" pipe into the 1". Its pissing me off

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    I followed yours and the OP DIY and I still can not fit the 3/4" pipe into the 1". Its pissing me off
    How does the weld seam inside the 1" pipe look? Can you still feel it raised with your finger after sanding?

    Do you have a caliper? If so, can you measure the outside diameter (OD) of the 3/4" pipe and the inside diameter (ID) of the 1" pipe and post up the results?

    Should be about the following:
    * Nominal: 3/4" - OD: 1.050" - ID: 0.824"
    * Nominal: 1" - OD: 1.315" - ID: 1.049"

    Or, can you post up a photo of the inside of the 1" pipe?

  16. #16
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    No seam. I even tried to sand it Just in case but there was barely even a seam. I dont have a caliper but probably will be getting one tonight at Harbor Freight. Here are a few pics. if I seriously just threw a pipe through the wall. Maybe its because I bought them at lowes? dont know how that could make such a difference.






  17. #17
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    ^^^ I wouldn't have expected you to have an issue. I bought my pipe at Home Depot. Lowes probably gets theirs from the same distributor... Just eyeballing it, by how much does the 3/4" pipe seem too big?

  18. #18
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    Not by much. It looks to be about even with the inside diameter of the 1" pipe. I tried to grind it down on the edge to see about how much I would need to grind it but it seems like it would take way too long.

  19. #19
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    Maybe sand down the outside of the 3/4" pipe with some 120 grit sandpaper? It'll make a nice shiny surface, anyway.

  20. #20
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    Sanding will definitely take forever. I mean I grinded it down with a bench grinder and still no go

  21. #21
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    It really won't take very long. Look at the 3/4" pipe in the first of my photos. It's standard off-the-shelf black. In the final photos it's nice and shiny. It didn't take more than 10-15 minutes with 100 or 120 grit paper.

    Just loosely wrap the sandpaper around the pipe and work off the surface.

  22. #22
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    I just read about the grinder... I don't know unless they had the 3/4" pipe mismarked.

  23. #23
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    I imagine you could get a nice twisting/stroking motion going with the sandpaper in your hand while holding a piece of the pipe

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I imagine you could get a nice twisting/stroking motion going with the sandpaper in your hand while holding a piece of the pipe
    I tried to not sound all pervy when explaining it.

    But, since we're in the gutter... Maybe it didn't take long for me to sand it down because I've had lots of "practice".

  25. #25
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    I dont know what the F im doing or what the hell is up with this pipe. It shouldnt be this hard. I sanded it down with 40 grit paper on a belt sander for like 10 minutes and it still doesnt fit. I think I might have to try another pipe or the fan downrod. This is seriously pissing me off


  26. #26
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    When/if you go back to the hardware store, take that 1" tee you built up along with you. You can test fit the piping right there in the store and save some more frustration.

  27. #27
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    My guess its going to be the 3/4 pipe. But I might be wrong.

  28. #28
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    No go. Pipe still doesnt fit. Looked promising but no go. Im about done with this.

  29. #29
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    I built a modified version of this stand last spring. I spent a few hours grinding the hell out of the ID of the 1" IP to get the 3/4" to fit (I was using a dremel grinding wheel.) Even after the welded seam was ground smooth, it still wouldn't fit. I finally gave up. So my version of the stand does not pivot. However, I don't really find myself wishing that it did pivot. The pipe clamp / wood jaw solution is definitely a winner (just make sure you don't rotate the wood grain 90 deg, lol.)

    Nicely done marpilli.

  30. #30
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    Same here. I have spent about 40 minutes grinding the ID of the 1" pipe with no success. Now I know for sure that the pipes must be different.

  31. #31
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    To state the obvious, the problem is either with the outside diameter of the 3/4" pipe or the inside diameter of the 1" pipe. Without a caliper we're just guessing. And, since you took the 1" built-up tee with you and could find no 3/4" pipe that would fit, that casts suspicion on the ID of the 1" pipe.

    When I picked up mine from the hardware store, the 3/4" did slightly fit into the 1". The weld seam prevented it from going in very far without getting stuck. But, I could tell it was going to work.

    If you decide to try it again, I'd recommend doing the same before purchase. Sounds like you've tried everything to salvage what you bought without success...
    Last edited by marpilli; 01-06-2012 at 11:38 AM.

  32. #32
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    SUCCESS!!! Finally.
    So in my last attempt I went to Lowes and lucky enough one of the lowes guys asked me if he could help. I told him what I was doing and he right away said "oh yeah, these 1" pipes have a burr on the ends thats whats preventing it from going in". So he stuck the 1" pipe in the threading machine and de burred the ends and presto, it slid on like a charm.


  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    SUCCESS!!! Finally.
    So in my last attempt I went to Lowes and lucky enough one of the lowes guys asked me if he could help. I told him what I was doing and he right away said "oh yeah, these 1" pipes have a burr on the ends thats whats preventing it from going in". So he stuck the 1" pipe in the threading machine and de burred the ends and presto, it slid on like a charm.
    Awesome!

    I never thought about a burr on the ends. But, that makes perfect sense now...

    In the morning, you should call up that Lowe's and ask for the manager's name. Spend 5 minutes typing up a complimentary letter and mail it off as soon as possible. I've mailed off three letters over the last few years to the local Home Depot manager when an employee had really helped me out in a jam.

    I've already been using my workstand more than I thought I would. I previously just hung my bike from straps to work on it. In the last week I've upgraded the drivetrain and serviced the fork. I even flipped it upside down in the workstand to replace the negative air valve an add a few CC's of fork oil. Tonight, I bled the brakes.

    Name:  IMG_0911.JPG
Views: 1283
Size:  94.0 KB

    I'm glad you got over that hurdle and I hope you end up enjoying your workstand as much as I have mine. Don't forget to post up a photo when it's finished.

  34. #34
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    For sure. Im stoked to start using this one instead of my ebay cheapie, which works ok but it sometimes limits what I can work on and how. and sometimes gets a little tipsy.


  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    I followed yours and the OP DIY and I still can not fit the 3/4" pipe into the 1". Its pissing me off
    I believe the original post said you could also try a ceiling fan extension rod (0.75") which may slide easier into the 1" pipe ID. These are readily found at home improvement stores.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by torreyaz View Post
    I believe the original post said you could also try a ceiling fan extension rod (0.75") which may slide easier into the 1" pipe ID. These are readily found at home improvement stores.
    Better yet, he figured out the problem was a burr at either end of the 1" pipe. Once fixed the pipes fit as planned.

  37. #37
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    The only reason I didnt want to go with a fan rod is that it cost like 16 bucks where a pipe was free (or 6 bucks at lowes).

    it was lying around at my work shop with a pony clamp. We always wondered what the hell that clamp and bent used pipe was for, come to find out it was used for my bike stand.

  38. #38
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    Is the hole you bore down the two pieces of 2x4 a 1" hole?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    Is the hole you bore down the two pieces of 2x4 a 1" hole?
    No, I ended up using a 1-1/2" hole saw. I drilled a 1" hole (that's the largest spade bit I had on hand) into a piece of scrap and the scrap wouldn't fit over the 1" pipe. The smallest hole saw I had was 1-1/2" so that's what I used. The holes are larger than they needed to be but I didn't want the clamping blocks to jam on the OD of the 1" pipe.

    BTW, I actually used some scrap 2x3 from fixing my fence.

    I did use the 1" spade bit to drill out the clamp block grooves. I wanted to round the edges of the clamp grooves a bit so I wrapped the 1" pipe with sandpaper, laid the grooved blocks on the workbench, and used the pipe/sandpaper to take the edge off.

    You may want to look at how sasquach fabricated his clamp jaws. I thought it was a neat idea.
    What clamps do you suggest for my repair stand?

    The pipe clamp you showed in the photo didn't have much clamping area on the crank portion and that got me thinking... One idea would be to cut and drill the clamp blocks, mount them on the pipe and tighten down the pipe clamp. Draw the outline of the circular clamp area onto the back of the block and then remove them. Drill out that area about 1/4" deep (just enough to recess that clamp head) with a bit that's at or just under the diameter of the circle. When you reassemble, squirt some caulk (or stronger adhesive) into the hole, tighten the clamp and let it dry. That should help hold the block to the crank portion of the clamp.
    Last edited by marpilli; 01-07-2012 at 03:24 PM.

  40. #40
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    Yeah that clamp would not work. I was just gonna go buy one at HF for 10 bucks.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    Yeah that clamp would not work. I was just gonna go buy one at HF for 10 bucks.
    That's the way to go. I forgot about HF and bought my pipe clamp at the Home Depot. Could have saved a few bucks by making a trip to HF.

  42. #42
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    Finally done. A bit hard to clamp but once its on its sturdier than i thought. Thanks for tHe inspiration. For 38 bucks you cant beat it.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    Finally done. A bit hard to clamp but once its on its sturdier than i thought. Thanks for tHe inspiration. For 38 bucks you cant beat it.
    Great job! I always thought hanging my bike from straps to work on it was easy. I had no idea just how much easier it was to work on it in a stand.

  44. #44
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    I made one similar to this a couple years ago, from the same blog article the OP listed.



    I was able to get all the parts from the list in the blog for about $35-40. The only parts I had to buy were the PA/speaker tripod ($25), the 3/4" pony (pipe) clamp ($6), and the black & galvanized pipe pieces (forgot how much, but <$10).

    The glitch I encountered was from not being able to measure the diameter on the tripod's extension tube before purchasing (on line). Sure enough, it was too narrow to fit the vertical 1" pipe piece from the t-fitting. And when I took out the extension tube, the main tripod tube was too wide. So I bought a 3-ft piece of 1" pipe and a length of 3" (I believe) single-wall shrink tubing. I heated the shrink tubing over the unthreaded part of the long 1" pipe and it brought the outside diameter to perfectly fit into the main tripod tube.

    So adding in the unanticipated parts, this cost me about $50. Certainly could have been cheaper if I knew someone with scrap pipe or clamps and looked for a speaker stand on Craigslist. Probably could have been $25 or less, total.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    I had no idea just how much easier it was to work on it in a stand.
    I'll never go back to leaning a bike up against something or flipping it upside down..I even throw my bike in the stand to fill up tires or throw bottle cages on

  46. #46
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    The 1" pipe was not gonna fit in my tripod either. I think I bought the same pyle stand that marpilli has. I took a mallet and gently hammered it in and it fit perfectly. which makes me not need rivets now.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by random walk View Post
    The glitch I encountered was from not being able to measure the diameter on the tripod's extension tube before purchasing (on line). Sure enough, it was too narrow to fit the vertical 1" pipe piece from the t-fitting. And when I took out the extension tube, the main tripod tube was too wide. So I bought a 3-ft piece of 1" pipe and a length of 3" (I believe) single-wall shrink tubing. I heated the shrink tubing over the unthreaded part of the long 1" pipe and it brought the outside diameter to perfectly fit into the main tripod tube.
    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    The 1" pipe was not gonna fit in my tripod either. I took a mallet and gently hammered it in and it fit perfectly. which makes me not need rivets now.
    Both great solutions. Glad I'm not the only one that ran into this.

  48. #48
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    pipes

    so is it just the 21" pipe the black pipe or are the 6" pipes black to went to the store today and seemed to me that the galvinized worked better

  49. #49
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    I believe the OD and ID of the black pipe should be the same as galvanized pipe. If one fits better than the other it's probably due to the equipment that cut and threaded the pipe leaving a burr. If the pipe isn't fitting correctly, check for a burr (like cman8 described) or a weld seam you might need to remove.

    I don't think it really matters which type you use, as long as it fits and you're happy with it. Either will be more than strong enough to hold up a bike.

    Good luck. Post up a photo when done. We all like to see DIY stuff.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by marpilli View Post
    We all like to see DIY stuff.
    Yes we do

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