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  1. #1
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    My $55 home built workstand...

    I decided to build my own workstand. This thread is the one that inspired me:

    DIY Portable/Adjustable Bike Repair Stand

    The OP has a link to his blog that shows a lot of the step-by-step instructions. I'll just show what I did differently.

    $7.97 - 3/4" x 24" Pipe
    $13.97 - 3/4" Pipe Clamp
    $4.00 - 1" Black Tee
    $2.52 - 1" x 6" Nipple
    $2.52 - 1" x 6" Nipple
    $1.87 - 1" Split Ring Hanger
    $1.04 - Thumb Screw
    $1.18 - Two Hose Clamps
    $20.00 - PA Stand (CraigsList)

    $55.07 Total

    Instead of using a mouse pad for the clamp padding, I used liquid electrical tape. This stuff is similar to plasti-dip but you can paint it on. I've painted the hooks for my car mounted bike rack to keep the metal from scratching the paint on my trunk. It worked very well. I used some softwood (cedar) for the camp heads and figure that should be soft enough to not damage the tubing. I won't crank it down with all of my might, anyway...

    On his blog, several people had problems fitting the 3/4" pipe into the 1" pipe due to the weld seam on the inside of the 1" pipe. I had the same issue. I wrapped some sandpaper around a paint roller extension and sanded down the inside of the 1" pipe. Quick and worked well.

    My  home built workstand...-img_8054.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7745.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7746.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_7752.jpg


    The 1" pipe was a bit too large diameter for the PA stand I had. I drilled three 3/8" holes in the neck, slotted them to the end, and used hose clamps (instead of rivets) to secure the head assembly to the stand. This way I can re-use the stand for other stuff (holding a fan, set of lights, or whatever) when I'm not working on a bike.

    My  home built workstand...-img_7996.jpg

    To keep the 3/4" pipe from rotating, I used a 1" split-ring hanger and a thumb screw.

    My  home built workstand...-img_8002.jpg

    The pipe clamp I bought came with a spring that you can thread onto the end of the 3/4" pipe to keep it from pulling all the way out. I used piliers to bend the ends of the ring upwards to make it easier to install and remove.

    My  home built workstand...-img_7997.jpg

    A few other detail photos before painting...

    My  home built workstand...-img_7999.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_8001.jpg My  home built workstand...-img_8000.jpg
    Last edited by marpilli; 01-01-2012 at 10:08 AM.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  2. #2
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    Teardown, masked and painted...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8003.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8005.jpg

    Here's the money shots...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8035.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8038.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8039.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8040.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8041.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8042.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8043.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8044.jpg
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  3. #3
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    My  home built workstand...-img_8045.jpg

    Holding up the heavy Yukon...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8046.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8047.jpg

    Folded up...

    My  home built workstand...-img_8048.jpg

    My  home built workstand...-img_8052.jpg
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  4. #4
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    Totally digging it


    ***

  5. #5
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    Awesome stand man! I forgot you had one of those old Yukon's (not sure if you remember my 1x7?), I'm still trying to find the time and energy to get my stand finished, I did a very similar clamp design as you. I had a thread on it that I will have to find sometime

  6. #6
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    There it is, haven't read through this in awhile

    What clamps do you suggest for my repair stand?

    p.s. +repz to you for the stand!

  7. #7
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    very nice!

  8. #8
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    Sasquatch, I remembered you had a (I think the same) Yukon. I still think yours was older than you think it was.

    What I really like about this stand is how modular it is. If you have just a bench vise, you can buy the 24" 3/4 dia. pipe and just build the clamp head.

    No vise? Build the 1" tee and buy a 1" pipe flange. Screw the flange into your workbench and the tee into the flange.

    No bench? No PA stand? Build some type of base, attach flange and appropriate length of 1" pipe.

    Lots of variations possible with this type of design.

    Edit: I just read through the thread you posted. How did I miss that? I've never heard of panel bonding adhesive. That looks like a great solution and I might have taken that route if I had known. Ah, well. Ideas for workstand v2.0 already being written down.
    Last edited by marpilli; 12-31-2011 at 10:31 PM.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  9. #9
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    I've seen some pretty hokey homemade stands over the years. this one is top notch.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    I've seen some pretty hokey homemade stands over the years. this one is top notch.
    Ha, i thought you were going to say this was the "hokey-est" or something.

    Thank you for the compliment.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  11. #11
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    What year are the Yukon's marpilli? All the research I have done leads me to believe mine was a '95..Component-wise they are definitely no older than '92 or '93. And yeah the panel bond is great stuff, great for all sorts of repairs even though it was designed to basically replace welding in certain areas on automotive body panels

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    What year are the Yukon's marpilli? All the research I have done leads me to believe mine was a '95..Component-wise they are definitely no older than '92 or '93.
    When I first bought the bike, I started a thread to help me idenfiy the year:
    Old Giant Yukon "MTB" - How to tell the year?

    From the info I gained out of the thread:
    * My frame was manufactured in November, 1991 (serial number decode).
    * The Shimano 200GS groupset was only produced in 1991/1992.
    * There was no Yukon in 91 (It was still the Butte).

    This leads me to believe it's a 1992 Yukon (first production year).

    If I remember correctly, your Yukon was the same color scheme and had the 200GS groupset.

    It still rides great and shifts fine after I rejuvinated the shifters. I put 2.1" Kenda K-Rad tires on it, a steel riser bar (narrow), and new grips. It's a lot of fun to ride around.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  13. #13
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    Well then I must have owned a '92 really wish I kept that thing even though the frame was a size too small for me..

  14. #14
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    I followed yours and the OP DIY and I still can not fit the 3/4" pipe into the 1". Its pissing me off

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cman8 View Post
    I followed yours and the OP DIY and I still can not fit the 3/4" pipe into the 1". Its pissing me off
    How does the weld seam inside the 1" pipe look? Can you still feel it raised with your finger after sanding?

    Do you have a caliper? If so, can you measure the outside diameter (OD) of the 3/4" pipe and the inside diameter (ID) of the 1" pipe and post up the results?

    Should be about the following:
    * Nominal: 3/4" - OD: 1.050" - ID: 0.824"
    * Nominal: 1" - OD: 1.315" - ID: 1.049"

    Or, can you post up a photo of the inside of the 1" pipe?
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  16. #16
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    No seam. I even tried to sand it Just in case but there was barely even a seam. I dont have a caliper but probably will be getting one tonight at Harbor Freight. Here are a few pics. if I seriously just threw a pipe through the wall. Maybe its because I bought them at lowes? dont know how that could make such a difference.






  17. #17
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    ^^^ I wouldn't have expected you to have an issue. I bought my pipe at Home Depot. Lowes probably gets theirs from the same distributor... Just eyeballing it, by how much does the 3/4" pipe seem too big?
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  18. #18
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    Not by much. It looks to be about even with the inside diameter of the 1" pipe. I tried to grind it down on the edge to see about how much I would need to grind it but it seems like it would take way too long.

  19. #19
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    Maybe sand down the outside of the 3/4" pipe with some 120 grit sandpaper? It'll make a nice shiny surface, anyway.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  20. #20
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    Sanding will definitely take forever. I mean I grinded it down with a bench grinder and still no go

  21. #21
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    It really won't take very long. Look at the 3/4" pipe in the first of my photos. It's standard off-the-shelf black. In the final photos it's nice and shiny. It didn't take more than 10-15 minutes with 100 or 120 grit paper.

    Just loosely wrap the sandpaper around the pipe and work off the surface.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  22. #22
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    I just read about the grinder... I don't know unless they had the 3/4" pipe mismarked.
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  23. #23
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    I imagine you could get a nice twisting/stroking motion going with the sandpaper in your hand while holding a piece of the pipe

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I imagine you could get a nice twisting/stroking motion going with the sandpaper in your hand while holding a piece of the pipe
    I tried to not sound all pervy when explaining it.

    But, since we're in the gutter... Maybe it didn't take long for me to sand it down because I've had lots of "practice".
    Contact information: http://about.me/marpilli

  25. #25
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    I dont know what the F im doing or what the hell is up with this pipe. It shouldnt be this hard. I sanded it down with 40 grit paper on a belt sander for like 10 minutes and it still doesnt fit. I think I might have to try another pipe or the fan downrod. This is seriously pissing me off


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