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  1. #1
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    Home repairs without a torque wrench?

    I'm going to start doing most of my own work on my bikes.I have most or will be purchasing the few tools I don't have but need.Somethings having a torquewrench obviously not needed.Considering the cost..can one get away without one when one works on chainrings,bottom brackets etc.I donot have any carbon parts on my bikes so thats not a concern.
    thanks,
    scott

  2. #2
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    for aluminum/steel, it's not a big deal. I toredown a steel frame and put it back together without one over thanksgiving weekend. Rides great. Even without a torque wrench, it's important to know what you should be torquing to.

    FYI, you can get a cheap beam type torque wrench for $10-15. It's one of those things it's nice to have for the small stuff just so you're not stripping threads.

  3. #3
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Some bottom brackets have pretty specific torque specs.

    You can usually feel it when you bottom out a bolt. Another quarter turn is usually enough, especially if you feel like the resistance is ramping up during that last quarter turn.

    I can't say I miss my torque wrench - it's seized. I think it's a Craftsman, so I can probably exchange it...

    With little bolts in aluminum, be careful not to strip threads. Mostly that's about starting them well and then not being a gorilla.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  4. #4
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    Those Harbor Freight torque wrenches work great. They put them on sale for around $10 quite frequently. Get the 1/4" & 3/8" models, and you are set.

    Just in case you didn't know, torque wrenches of this type do not release a clutch when the dialed-in torque is reached. They merely make a snapping sound, and you must then stop turning. I mention this because twice I have read here of people not knowing this, and breaking their bolt.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    Some bottom brackets have pretty specific torque specs.

    You can usually feel it when you bottom out a bolt. Another quarter turn is usually enough, especially if you feel like the resistance is ramping up during that last quarter turn.

    I can't say I miss my torque wrench - it's seized. I think it's a Craftsman, so I can probably exchange it...

    With little bolts in aluminum, be careful not to strip threads. Mostly that's about starting them well and then not being a gorilla.
    bottomed out plus a quarter turn is about twice as tight as a bottom bracket should be. Not sure if that's what you were referring to but...

    It's been my theory for some time now that threaded bottom brackets creak more often from being too tight than they do from being loose.

  6. #6
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    thanks alot guys.

  7. #7
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab View Post
    bottomed out plus a quarter turn is about twice as tight as a bottom bracket should be. Not sure if that's what you were referring to but...

    It's been my theory for some time now that threaded bottom brackets creak more often from being too tight than they do from being loose.
    Interesting. I was thinking more about general bolts, but I knew one could get fair precision guesstimating preload with degrees past bottoming out. If it comes up, hopefully I'll remember.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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