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  1. #1
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    Grease, Thread Lock, or Anti-Seize?

    I do not fully understand when to use grease, when to use thread lock, and when to use anti-seize on bolt threads. Can anyone please explain it to me?

  2. #2
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    Good question! I think I understand this for the most part, but can't wait to hear an actual expert answer this one!

  3. #3
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    Hate to say it but search. There was a hefty discussion on this same topic not two weeks ago.

    Grease on press fit and moving parts, anti seize on anything with threads, threadlocker on brake adapter and brake rotor bolts is what I do.

  4. #4
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    Anti seize on anything with threads thread locker on things that can't afford to come loose, grease on things that need to move and bearing retaining compound on press in BB's.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for clearing it up for me!

  6. #6
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    I use waterproof grease on just about everything with threads. Pedals, bottom bracket, crank arms. Carbon grip for seat post, handlebar clamp, stem-steerer. Only thing with thread locker is what already came with it, brake mount bolts and disc torx bolts.

    I do my own maintenance and use a torque wrench. Everything has always been tight when i work on the bike. I even get a lot of chatter to test this method while riding rigid. Disclaimer: i only put abuot 1200mi a year on my bike, so, less maintenance and more miles may not fair as well.

  7. #7
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    If for example, you do not have a carbon post, do you grease a normal alloy seatpost? Some people put anti-seize on the threads of the crankarms too...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tsetse View Post
    If for example, you do not have a carbon post, do you grease a normal alloy seatpost? Some people put anti-seize on the threads of the crankarms too...
    Carbon paste is for carbon. metal posts need either anti-seize (for ti) or grease. I don't normally use carbon past as a default. I've run into cases more than once were you get a tolerance stack that makes carbon paste a horrible idea. More often than not it's fine, but once in a while when a saddle post is a little big or a seat tube is a little small it goes bad in a hurry.

  9. #9
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    I don't use anything on any of the bolts on my bikes. I'd use oil on the wheel nipples, and a little antisieze on my aluminum seatpost since I move it a lot. I use a little grease under the crown race, and a little threadlocker on the brake disc bolts.


    Antisieze is really only helpful on bolts that are going to be assembled for a long time in situations that will rust. I use them on the suspension bolts on my vehicles.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoban View Post

    Antisieze is really only helpful on bolts that are going to be assembled for a long time in situations that will rust. I use them on the suspension bolts on my vehicles.
    It's also great when bolting dissimilar metals together, which is pretty common in bicycles. It's also mandatory when working with titanium fasteners or threads.

  11. #11
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    Here are a few guidelines (not law) I use. I use threadlocker on bolts that have come loose on rides (derailleur pulley wheel bolts, suspension pivot bolts, shock bolts, pedal cleats...) and disc brake caliber bolts/adapter bolts, disc brake rotor bolts...that is all that comes to mind. I use anti-seize on aluminum to aluminum interfaces and bottom bracket threads to frame. Grease on all else that needs it.

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  12. #12
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    Most bolts on my bike go in dry. One exception is brake caliper/disc bolts that come with thread locker pre-applied, with those I just continue to use the pre-applied stuff even if I take them in and out several times. I've never had a bolt fall out or even come loose. Most of the other bolts on my bike I take out at least once a year for tune-up/maintenance purposes, so I'm not generally concerned about corrosion or the bolts getting stuck. One exception to that is the bottom bracket, which I use a thin layer of anti-seize on when installing.

  13. #13
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    I put grease on anything that isn't threadlocked (as posted above). Grease on threads, under setpost bolt heads, etc. Any metal to metal contact gets a thin film of grease to keep things quiet and creak free. I also put a trop of penetrating oil on the nipple/spoke and nipple/rim eyelet about once a month to keep things free in case the rim needs a touch up.
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  14. #14
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    I'm a greaser too! The only thing I have threadlocked (blue) is rotor and brake bolts.
    I always wanted a Wookie, but I found out they weren't real.
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  15. #15
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    I follow this guideline: grease for high torque and lubrication. Thread lock for smaller bolts with lower torque, torque sensitive things, or where I want things to not come loose from vibration and other loads that could loosen them (ex. disc brakes, RD pulleys that don't have retaining clips, crank bolts, etc). Anti seize for dissimilar metal contact, that's prone where I don't exactly need lube, but I don't want the parts to stick together or corrode.
    I like to jump to conclusions, oversimplify, gossip, and participate in popularity polls.

  16. #16
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    Do you grease the spindle of the cranks when putting it back into the BB? Some people put anti-seize whereas others put grease on it when installing. Don't know which is really better. My cranks are Race Face Evolve XC's on Race Face X-Type cranks.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tsetse View Post
    Do you grease the spindle of the cranks when putting it back into the BB? Some people put anti-seize whereas others put grease on it when installing. Don't know which is really better. My cranks are Race Face Evolve XC's on Race Face X-Type cranks.
    In this case I always use grease. Not only to help slide the axle through the bearings, but in the chance some water gets in the bb shell, there is a lower chance of the steel bearings rusting.
    MCM #269

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