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grease and lubes

1K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  Supple1 
#1 ·
Since the LBS charges me $60 every time I need something greased, I think it's time to start doing it on my own. I've read about people taking out their bearings and such and soaking them in simply green to degrease them... does this work? and after i do that will just any generic lubricant like the finish line lube work to regrease my hubs and bb. also what would i use for the fork and sprockets?
 
#2 ·
1. Simple Green does work for cleaning parts. (that's what it's supposed to do)
2. DO NOT use a wax based lube like finish line on your hubs/headsets/bb. Use a good quality grease, like Phil Wood green grease or a good marine grease (see threads in this forum discussing grease.)
 
#3 ·
Finish Line actually makes a very good synthetic grease that is not wax based. I still prefer Marine grease but I just wanted to set the record strait here

For your chain, there are several good lubes out there. I personally prefer Pro Link Gold.

Simple Green cleans parts so-so...a citrus degreaser is a lot better if your looking at a biodegradable cleaner.
 
#4 ·
Depending on the type of hubs and BB you have if you can re-grease them or not. If the hubs are the loose ball bearing balls and cones yes, take one side apart, clean all the parts and re-grease as schneidie suggested. I like Progold EPX but any quality brand/marine grease will be ok. If your hubs use cartridge bearings, clean the surface and using a needle or pin to "pop" the seals off. you can clean them out and then pack with grease. If the existing grease is not dirty/gritty, you can re-pack with grease, and then press the seal back on with your fingers.
If you have a ocatalink BB you can't take it aprt to re-grese. if you have cup and ball/shaft BB they are made to come apart and be cleaned and re-greased as long as the cups/shaft/ball bearings are not pitted.
Hollowtech/FSA; etc external BB have an explanation how to take apart, clean and re-grease @ Drivetrain forum.
Good luck with all that. Don't forget you may need some bike specific tools depending on the design/model/brand of components.
 
#5 ·
Jake, there are several great references available to help you do your own work at home. Barnetts $$ book: http://www.bbinstitute.com/manual.htm and others of the like. However, for free, you can get 95% of that on the web at part tools (great walk throughs of ALL the basic procedures) http://www.parktool.com/repair/ . For more background info about particular parts, wheel building, repairs by name, standards, terminology and compatibility, go to the sheldon brown site http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

Read up and dig in.....then post more specific questions when/as they come up.
 
#6 ·
$60:eek: Wow! I feel lucky that in most instances my LBS will regrease or replace bearings for $15. Oh, it's a bit more for the headset for some reason. I still want to learn to do it all myself.
 
#8 ·
No, Marine Grease is quite thick. The advantage of Marine Grease is that is specifically designed for wheel bearings and such on boat trailers. It is very resistant to being washed away and it also has great anti-corrosion additives.

Standard multi-purpose grease will work fine, but if you ride a lot in wet weather (or many stream crossings)...going to marine grease may help.
 
#9 ·
do not ever use simple green, or ANY degreaser on any part that you dont plan on 100% tearing down and completely rinsing with solvent or water than alcohol.. or just never use degreaser, its not really necessary and solvents work better anyhow.

if even small traces of degreaser are left on the surface, it'll partially wash off whatever lube you apply and cause rapid wear.
 
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