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  1. #1
    addicted to chunk
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    DIY headset press

    Nothing fancy but worked like a charm!

    Just 3/4 threaded rod about 16" long, some big washers & some nuts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DIY headset press-headset_press.jpg  

    Riding.....

  2. #2
    Huckin' trails
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    As long as it works you're riding. It's all what's matter at the end of the line.

    Good initiative. Should a reverse kind of tool also work to remove them by reusing about the same bits or a new rig would be required ?
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  3. #3
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    A long dowel and hammer works great for removing them.

  4. #4
    addicted to chunk
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    I made another tool for removal of the other cups, & it worked well.
    I found some thick-walled PVC pipe about 12" long, 3/4" outside diameter. I cut two slices about 4-5" long on one end, then wedged a piece of wood inside to hold them about 1.5" apart. Heated slightly with propane torch & let cool. Once cool, remove wood & you can slide through the head tube, & the plastic end will pop open once inside. Then hammer & it pops out.
    Similar idea to the park tools: Park Tool Co. RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset

    I think it would be better to use 1" copper pipe, but hardware store only had 2' pieces & wanted $15 sheesh.

    The PVC version worked OK & I'm sure would take a few cups out, but for $2 hey it worked!
    Riding.....

  5. #5
    addicted to chunk
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    Oh, & a bonus, the 3/4" threaded rod worked well to punch out the old rusty star-fangled nut in the used fork I bought.
    Riding.....

  6. #6
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    I made a headset press just like this last summer for about 129 cents. I have used it once and it works great. One helpful hint though is to do one side at a time to help them go in straight. if they dont start straight then back up and start again. I drilled a hole in a wood block that i use on one side that is bigger then the washers so they are bigger then the head tube. Ill get some pictures when i go to use it in a few weeks with my new build.
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  7. #7
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    Alignment is a great thing to mention Gsromich, better quality frames (Using lighter/thinner walled tubing) will crack much easier if the cups are going in crooked.

    One other suggestion, have a couple of smaller washers available to mimic the contact loading of the Park Headset tool. It presses only on the flange that fits into the headtube, that way it doesn't bend the "bowl" that the bearings sit in. Aluminum headset cups are susceptible to this, steel not so much. Using a washer that sits just inside the headset cup will prevent installing a headset cup you bent in the process.

    Great thread, thanks for starting this one!

  8. #8
    addicted to chunk
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    Yes good point, I did one at a time as well!
    Riding.....

  9. #9
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    another good reason to use a large block of wood instead of the washers is that it helps keep the headset straight. I found the washers pivoted easily on the bolt and it made it more difficult to install the headset.

    I have some picks on my blog

    DIY Headset Press | BikeLife365

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by coiler_guy View Post
    another good reason to use a large block of wood instead of the washers is that it helps keep the headset straight. I found the washers pivoted easily on the bolt and it made it more difficult to install the headset.

    I have some picks on my blog

    DIY Headset Press | BikeLife365
    I like your idea and am going to modify my press from the current brass fitting washers to the wood blocks, so right about the sloppy fit.

  11. #11
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    I used 2 old bearings out of an XT bottom bracket last night to press in a headset. They fit nicely in the cup, as opposed to pressing on top of it with a washer.

  12. #12
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    I made one just like that a year ago. Its all I need for the number of times I change out headsets.

  13. #13
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    Genius!

  14. #14
    I should be studying...
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    Yep, the key is stack washers, otherwise they will bend... Worked great on several builds of mine. For removal, I use a PVC tube with 4 slits, splayed out, works like a charm.
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  15. #15
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    I took a similar approach, but improved the design I used Park's cup guides from the actual HHP-2 tool. You can find them on Amazon for $30 or so. I also used a 3/4" threaded rod (12" long) and two 3/4" washers/nuts. Plans for the future are to weld a "T-handle" to one end so I only need one wrench to use it. I'll probably weld it to the nut so the washer still has a wide surface to rest against. All-in-all a very comparable alternative to the $140 Park tool as it virtually is the same thing since it's using the same cup guides.




    I'm also going to make a headset cup remover like this as soon as I can find an old seatpost that will work. My spare 30.9 post is too wide.


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I took a similar approach, but improved the design I used Park's cup guides from the actual HHP-2 tool. You can find them on Amazon for $30 or so. I also used a 3/4" threaded rod (12" long) and two 3/4" washers/nuts. Plans for the future are to weld a "T-handle" to one end so I only need one wrench to use it. I'll probably weld it to the nut so the washer still has a wide surface to rest against. All-in-all a very comparable alternative to the $140 Park tool as it virtually is the same thing since it's using the same cup guides.




    I'm also going to make a headset cup remover like this as soon as I can find an old seatpost that will work. My spare 30.9 post is too wide.

    How does it work with fixed bearing headsets like King and Cane Creek?

  17. #17
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    Do you mean integrated headsets? I'm not familiar with fixed bearing headsets...a quick Google search led me to integrated headsets, is that what you mean?

  18. #18
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    DIY headset press

    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Do you mean integrated headsets? I'm not familiar with fixed bearing headsets...a quick Google search led me to integrated headsets, is that what you mean?
    No clue who you are replying to, but integrated headsets do not need a press. The bearings just drop into seats in the headtube.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    No clue who you are replying to, but integrated headsets do not need a press. The bearings just drop into seats in the headtube.
    I'm replying to the post right above mine regarding "fixed bearing headsets".........

    I wasn't sure whether he meant integrated or zero stack style headset cups.

    Either way, the tool is going to handle everything that the Park HHP-2 will. That's that.

  20. #20
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    I think he meant that ck and cc both recommend you use their adapters for their headsets. which would work with your set up. because they just slide over.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Do you mean integrated headsets? I'm not familiar with fixed bearing headsets...a quick Google search led me to integrated headsets, is that what you mean?
    The bearings in King and some Cane Creek headsets are not removable so when you use the Park Cones it presses right on the bearing which most likely will cause the bearing to fail. This is why both Cane Creek and King makes special press adapters to place the installation forces on the outter part of the bearing assembly.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4life View Post
    The bearings in King and some Cane Creek headsets are not removable so when you use the Park Cones it presses right on the bearing which most likely will cause the bearing to fail. This is why both Cane Creek and King makes special press adapters to place the installation forces on the outter part of the bearing assembly.
    Then you'd use the adapters. It's literally the same cup guides as the Park tool. As I've said, this will do whatever the Park tool can do.

  23. #23
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    DIY headset press-hs-adapter.jpgHere is a cross section picture to what I was trying to say

  24. #24
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    You don't have to worry about the adapter when you just use big ass washers.

  25. #25
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    Hello fellas,
    want to begin by saying thanks for all the great tips in this thread. W/ all your awesome diy for hs press, i did my very first hs install fsa pig, price $2.60 for bolts n washers and $5 for beers. well worth the $2.60.

    i agree too, alignment is key, what i did was reversed the rod, baby tapped under the cup, it realigned it then repeated the process.
    i have a question though. The bottom cup went in flush, but the upper cup went in straight till i cant add anymore torque to it. but it's not flush flush. seems to be like, i want to think 0.5mm if not less, thats just not going in anymore.
    would this be a concern , should i keep repeating the process until its flush flush way in there? ( there wasnt any chunk or uneven paint on the face, its evened and inside the ht has no paint.

    thanks for any and all advice and tips,

    and to orig post, sorry if this is some sort of thread jacking... if so let me kno, still a noob here. correct me if im wrong.

    thank you fellas.

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