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Thread: Chainring bolts

  1. #1
    hold my beer & watch this
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    Chainring bolts

    When attaching a front chainring, the 2 part bolt system usually has a 5 or 6 mm hex, with the other part having a big slot, like you are supposed to use a humongous screwdriver in it.
    I have been using said humongous screwdriver, clamped in a vise to hold that part stationary while torquing the other part to spec. This is somewhat of a pain in the butt, and usually results in the screwdriver slipping out of the slot and several choice 4 letter words.
    Is there a tool available to secure the slotted part?
    Or do I have to make one?
    Did not see one at Park tool.
    Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.
    -- Robert Heinlein --

  2. #2
    but Diggin the 1 x 14 too
    Reputation: 2gears=1speed's Avatar
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    ...you might consider using Chainring bolts that are Hex's on BOTH sides... they are much easier to work with, the rear slotted type are old school.
    I stopped using those long ago, they are difficult to get tight.

    there are chainring tools that are supposed to work well for this, but most don't. I've bought 3 or 4 of them over the years. some didn't even fit the slotted chainring nuts. I ended up modifying a shimano tool that performed better, but being able to use 2 hex wrenches has proved to be the best route for me.
    Last edited by 2gears=1speed; 12-19-2013 at 10:45 PM.

  3. #3
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    Yes shimano sells a tool that is really handy..

  4. #4
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    impact gun

  5. #5
    Plays with tools
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    Quote Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
    impact gun
    This!

  6. #6
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    If you have clean threads and use a dab of grease sometimes you don't even need a tool to hold the back side. The ones that spin can be easily held with one of these-

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  7. #7
    'Tis but a scratch
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    Or if you are hung up on wanting the park tool one...here you go...

    Park Tool Co. CNW-2 : Chainring Nut Wrench : Crank Tools

  8. #8
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    Not really hung up on park tool, but I knew there had to be something out there, just could not locate it. I was thinking along the lines of a drag link socket though.
    Going to eventually replace with ones that have a hex on both sides - last bike had that, but this one does not.
    Thanks all.
    Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.
    -- Robert Heinlein --

  9. #9
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    I have the CNW-2. I had to work on it with a needle file to get it to fit. And it is rather cheaply made and not up to Park's usual quality -- the metal is thin and the stamping isn't real clean. But it works and is inexpensive.

    Thanks 2Gears -- I didn't realize that bolts with hex drive on both sides are available. They're all over Amazon if anyone is looking for them.

  10. #10
    Plays with tools
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    Pretty well known the park version doesn't work with shimano bolts, they are aware of it and don't seem to think there's anything wrong with that

  11. #11
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
    Reputation: thomllama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2gears=1speed View Post
    ...you might consider using Chainring bolts that are Hex's on BOTH sides... they are much easier to work with, the rear slotted type are old school.
    I stopped using those long ago, they are difficult to get tight.

    there are chainring tools that are supposed to work well for this, but most don't. I've bought 3 or 4 of them over the years. some didn't even fit the slotted chainring nuts. I ended up modifying a shimano tool that performed better, but being able to use 2 hex wrenches has proved to be the best route for me.
    ya, what he said. I believe Shimano is really the only one still using the old slotted style.. All the SRAM's I've done are dual Hex bolt. not only do the slotted bolts SUCK when new but often times if on a 2/3 by front gearing they are used for actually chain ramps and end up all chewed making it near impossible to to get enough grip on, especially now that a lot have gone to alum instead of steel.

    one hint,.Grease is a good help but I found Plumbers tape (AKA teflon tape) to be a much better thread treatment. It helps hold with out a crusty mess like lock tite type stuff does, it doesn't wash away like grease will over time, keeps it from seizing together from dirt and mud, cleans off easier than anything when rebuilding/re-installing costs about 10th of anything else.
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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