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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    I think chain whips are shop tools, or neglected bike tools. I have one, but for my bikes its always the glove/rag.
    You don't get your cassette tight enough then..

  2. #27
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    I dont know why I would tighten it so tight its not easily serviceable. Having it as tight as I do causes no issues at all...

    Just to see what would happen, I did about 200 miles with a cassette way too loose, just hardly snugged up. Nothing happened.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    I dont know why I would tighten it so tight its not easily serviceable. Having it as tight as I do causes no issues at all...

    Just to see what would happen, I did about 200 miles with a cassette way too loose, just hardly snugged up. Nothing happened.
    Loose cassette = sloppy shifting, premature wear of chain and freehub body, unnecessary noise and vibration and the obvious risk of it coming off. You want your cassette tight. I've worked in a shop and seen some pretty gnarly stuff from people who run their cassettes looser than they're supposed to.

  4. #29
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    i tighten my cassette. probably moreso than it needs.

    no loose cassette. no sloppy shifting. But I don't go a full or a half rotation after TIGHT either.

    and I still use a glove.

  5. #30
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    do you also torque the lock ring with hand in glove?

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Loose cassette = sloppy shifting, premature wear of chain and freehub body, unnecessary noise and vibration and the obvious risk of it coming off. You want your cassette tight. I've worked in a shop and seen some pretty gnarly stuff from people who run their cassettes looser than they're supposed to.




    ^^^ I've put in my fair share of shop time as well and after some time you get really tuned in to notice any flaws whatsoever when you test ride a bike, I guess you could say you develop "rabbit ears" so to speak and for me a loose cassette is easily noticeable when riding, especially when you transition from coasting to engagement.

    As mentioned earlier on "to each his own", but with all the cheap and easy ways shown here to remove a cassette and given how relatively infrequently it needs done I can't understand the reasoning behind not getting it tight.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    You don't get your cassette tight enough then..
    Agreed.

    I also don't understand why people have trouble with chain whips, it's a simple tool.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab View Post
    Agreed.

    I also don't understand why people have trouble with chain whips, it's a simple tool.
    It's not so much that it's hard to use, it's just a little awkward handling the three tools (chain whip, lock ring tool, adjustable wrench) with two hands, especially since none of them will stay in place well without being held there. Your lock ring tool with the handle welded on to it would attest to that. I suppose you have an understandable bias towards the chain whip though.
    A Useful Bear is a handy thing.

  9. #34
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    I made a chain whip with a old chain and a piece of metal . When I want to remove the cassete ,I put the locking tool in the vice ,chain whip on cassette holding it with one hand and turn the wheel ,a lot of leverage with wheel .

  10. #35
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    A wrench handle with a lockring tool built on does make things a lot easier, however a lot of people make it hard on themselves by doing it wrong. If you do find yourself with only a chainwhip, adjustable wrench, and cassette lockring tool I suggest using gravity to your advantage. Here is an unknown mechanic making things harder than need be IMO-



    And here is the first (only) image I could locate of someone doing it the easy way. An unknown bike mechanic somewhere in Africa using a custom made chainwhip-



    The chainwhip falls right on that way and you have all of your body weight to loosen it!

  11. #36
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    You're right. A lot of it is technique, however a lockring tool with a handle makes the job much easier.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by edmorales View Post
    do you also torque the lock ring with hand in glove?

    No tool needed to hold the cassette when tightening it.

    If the chain whip is in the shop (garage} and I'm in the basement I'll try the 18" pipe wrench on the largest cog. If too tight to use without damage I'll make the 100' trek to get the tool. If its really cold or raining I'll try a little harder with the pipe wrench.
    lean forward

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1niceride View Post
    No tool needed to hold the cassette when tightening it.

    If the chain whip is in the shop (garage} and I'm in the basement I'll try the 18" pipe wrench on the largest cog. If too tight to use without damage I'll make the 100' trek to get the tool. If its really cold or raining I'll try a little harder with the pipe wrench.
    I prefer to use a Torque Wrench and tighten the lock ring to the manufacturer's specs


  14. #39
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    I believe the thread is about chain whip substitutes. One does not need a chain whip to tighten. Of course one should tighten to specs.
    lean forward

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1niceride View Post
    I believe the thread is about chain whip substitutes. One does not need a chain whip to tighten. Of course one should tighten to specs.
    we all know that one does not need the chain whip when tightening, pic above was when loosening the lock ring. I am just curious how one can tighten the lock ring without using the torque wrench


  16. #41
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    Haven't there been other threads saying torque wrenches were pointless with cassette lockrings? The knurling on the lockring and/or smallest cog throw off the torque ratings.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Haven't there been other threads saying torque wrenches were pointless with cassette lockrings? The knurling on the lockring and/or smallest cog throw off the torque ratings.
    this is why Shimano cassettes have a thin aluminium washer on the lock ring, Sram does not. The washer unfortunately does not come separately, I just make one from an empty beer can, And drink beer while servicing the freehub

  18. #43
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    It aint no fine Swiss watch, just crank it tight- or loose according to some on this thread. No need for a torque wrench.

  19. #44
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    +1 jb

  20. #45
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    I use a strap wrench in place of a chain whip because I have one lying around that I have no other use for.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsieb View Post
    It's not so much that it's hard to use, it's just a little awkward handling the three tools (chain whip, lock ring tool, adjustable wrench) with two hands, especially since none of them will stay in place well without being held there. Your lock ring tool with the handle welded on to it would attest to that. I suppose you have an understandable bias towards the chain whip though.
    Using a lock ring tool with a handle integrated into it is the only way to go. Weather it's mine or something inferior, it's way better than trying to fumble around with an adjustable wrench.

    Even before I made my chain whip I still preferred them over anything else I've come across. It's just such a simple and quick tool. The thing that I never liked about other whips is they are almost all made from flat bar stock,

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Haven't there been other threads saying torque wrenches were pointless with cassette lockrings? The knurling on the lockring and/or smallest cog throw off the torque ratings.
    There have. But as long as they stamp torque specs on the lock ring, some people will feel the need to torque them to spec.

    Technique with the chain whip and lock ring remover is everything.

  23. #48
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    Just get the freakin' Vise Grip, well worth the cost. LZ (Lennard Zinn) came up with the idea when he kept visiting shops where the mechanics were welding together pieces that functioned the same as the VG.

  24. #49
    gran jefe
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Speaking of touring and simple...

    please explain for the newb? thank you.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill in Houston View Post
    please explain for the newb? thank you.
    I was wondering this as well. Maybe you can fit that nib on the lockring into the dropout and then pedal the bike, thereby rotating the freehub while the lockring is stationary? One direction tightens it, the other loosens.
    I've made some bad decisions like taking the gears off my bike. So here's the warning: Do not as I say, nor as I do.

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