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on my 3rd wind...
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My V.2 with a 160mm fork is 13.25. V3 is a little lower I believe. Are you measuring to the centerline of the bb spindle? I think the V3 is 13" even with a 160mm fork, with a 150mm 12.6" doesnt surprise me. Most great handling AM bikes are in the low 13" range. You learn to live with it for the ability to shred the turns.
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on my 3rd wind...
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what's that rattle?
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I think the real question is "Why can't Titus put up an accurate geometry chart?" That BB height is off by an inch!
It ends up being the same issue as the shallow headset ream on the V2: Tell customers exactly what they're buying and they won't be disappointed post-purchase.
In the meantime, pro-pedal and shorter crankarms can mitigate pedal strikes!
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on my 3rd wind...
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Yeah, I was thinking my EG V.3 BBH will be in the low 13" range but after building it I am very surprised indeed. BBH of 12.6" is way too low for my taste and for 6" all mtn bike, IMO. If I put a 180mm Totem the BBH will prolly sit dead even 13.0". Here's better pictures. My fork's AC height is more like 545mm same as Fox 36 160mm.
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Let the good times roll.
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Yikes... And you even have an external lower cup. My v.2 is 13.2" with a 160mm Lyrik and flush lower cup.
Just out of curiosity, try mounting the rocker in the forward hole. Maybe that will make a small difference?
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Can you measure me wheel diameter (front and rear) in mm to axle centre.
And put a straight edge or string from front axle centre to rear axle centre.
Cheers
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Even with a 180mm fork my v3 is lower than my v1. It does turn like a mofo but I hate hitting my toes on everything. I will get some pics of mine tommorow and post the specs that matter.
"I'm the fastest of the slow guys"
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on my 3rd wind...
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by miniwisejosh
Yikes... And you even have an external lower cup. My v.2 is 13.2" with a 160mm Lyrik and flush lower cup.
Just out of curiosity, try mounting the rocker in the forward hole. Maybe that will make a small difference?
I was curious about that too but I haven't moved it to progressive setting mounting hole since that is not how bike was shipped to me with Monarch air shock installed. With 30% sag, so far on 4 rides, I am only using 80% travel so far based on the o-ring position on the shock stanchion! I dont really want to make it any more progressive. Anywho, just for an experiment I did move rocker to more foward/progressive position on the frame. And...it did raise the BBH by ~0.20" to 0.25"! The BBH height sat at 12.9" just under 13.0". So looks like if I want a higher BBH I need to move it to more progressive setting hole but I am not sure it's a good idea with air shock.
Last edited by SingleTrackHound; 09-13-2012 at 11:38 PM.
sth
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on my 3rd wind...
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 Originally Posted by brant
Can you measure me wheel diameter (front and rear) in mm to axle centre.
And put a straight edge or string from front axle centre to rear axle centre.
Cheers
Front and rear wheel diameter measure at ~565mm. It's Mavic 819 rim.
Wheel base measured at 1135mm. My frame is medium.
I put a long string from center of rear wheel axle to center front wheel axle...pulled it tight as I can and then taped each end. Measured the perpendicular distance from the center of BB to string. It measured around ~18-20mm. This one was little tough to measure accurately due to parallax error that I had to content with.
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IMO, OnOne decided to make the EG a specialty bike. a frame designed to be ridden up fireroads or shuttled & then mainly coasted downhill w/ just enough pedalling to get up to speed & maintain it in areas w/o fear of pedal strikes. doesn't seem to be intended for tech. climbing w/ a 13" give or take BB.
considering what the geo. is now, regardless of what the website says, compared to what it was when they bought Titus, it's only the same bike in name & looks
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Agreed, this is a pretty big issue if the BB is so far off from spec on the low end. It will be interesting to hear what they say.
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Not that this helps at all, but STH: that's one lurvely bike!
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on my 3rd wind...
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I want to add that this bike handles amazing due to super duper low BBH. I started this thread only because I thought I screwed up something with my parts spec causing my BBH to be so low. So I had to ask other EG V.3 owner and see if they are seeing the same result. Looks like I am in line...I think. Hopefully Titus will chime and confirm that geo # I am seeing on my build with 545mm AC fork with On-one Mixer Smoothie external headset is correct # for EG V3...because info on their website is bit lacking or confusing.
EG V.3 is an amazing handling bike on the downhill and climbs very well. It really has a slope style geo so keep that in mind if you are in the market for one. If you like doing technical climb or ride in the rocky region, you will need to watch your pedal 100% of the time and that can be mentally and physically tiring. It's amazing what kind of stuff you smack your pedal to when your BBH is only 12.7" on 6" all mtn rig. Yesterday I clipped my pedal on the 1-2" root stump during climb on the smooth singletrack and said to myself, " Wow, did that really happen?". Later on decent, during cornering which this bike just rails, I started to pedal on exit as I was coming out of apex and clipped something that I have no idea what. Instantly my bike kicked side way, I tried to correct it with handlebar but I almost jack knifed the front end and went down hard. It was intense moment since this bike corners so well that I was carrying a lots of speed but I managed to somehow save it. I am learning how to ride this bike differently than any other bikes I own in the garage each time I am out on the trail. I must admit, though, this bike puts a smile on my face more than any other bikes I own.
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I used to run 165mm cranks on my v1 and couldn't get used to the lack of leverage. Knowing that the v3 was going to be low I picked up a cheap set of 170mm cranks to try. It does seems to work pretty well that way.
I do agree that this bike rails corners. Some of the riding I was doing at snow shoe was so fast in the bermed turns it scared me on the way out that I was going that fast. I really think that's the only reason I did as well as I did in that race.
But If the bike could fit some large volume 650b wheels/tires I think it'd be awesome to have the bb this low.
"I'm the fastest of the slow guys"
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on my 3rd wind...
Reputation:
 Originally Posted by terrible
I used to run 165mm cranks on my v1 and couldn't get used to the lack of leverage. Knowing that the v3 was going to be low I picked up a cheap set of 170mm cranks to try. It does seems to work pretty well that way.
I do agree that this bike rails corners. Some of the riding I was doing at snow shoe was so fast in the bermed turns it scared me on the way out that I was going that fast. I really think that's the only reason I did as well as I did in that race.
But If the bike could fit some large volume 650b wheels/tires I think it'd be awesome to have the bb this low.
You read my mind Terrible. I am shopping for good deal on 170mm crank arm now. If I do get one I am prolly gonna need either granny or 1x10 with 36T in the rear. I agree that EG V.3 is a perfect candidate for front-wheel-only 650B conversion.
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 Originally Posted by terrible
Was really suprised at how much lower the v3 is over the v1
That is a heck of a lot more than a -4mm bb drop change (as posted from previous versions)
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and they love "subject to change w/o notification". those English, such a sense of humor
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Throw a 650B front wheel on there. POOF... 13.25" BB height.
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Throw a 650B front wheel on there. POOF... 13.25" BB height
Was that the plan from the begining?
Or is that what the future plan is? A 142x12 rear in 650b that would bolt up to the existing front triangle would be titties for sure.
"I'm the fastest of the slow guys"
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Dont know...just being an E-A$$.
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Ability to
raise and lower bb height = extra thick cut bacon
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The lowered bb -- partially a result of the slightly longer TT on the V3?
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 Originally Posted by terrible
I used to run 165mm cranks on my v1 and couldn't get used to the lack of leverage. Knowing that the v3 was going to be low I picked up a cheap set of 170mm cranks to try. It does seems to work pretty well that way.
To me, it's not only the leverage... but also that longer cranks allow you to get your centre of gravity lower than shorter cranks. To me, they make me feel more like riding inside the bike as opposed as ON the bike.
Subtle difference, but at 32.5" inseam, I can't stand anything shorter than 175mm cranks. Tried 170mm and they were awful to me. I hate the crank on my roadie for the same reason.
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