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  1. #1
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    Titus Nuevo El Guapo

    Something I picked up on the On One site.

    http://www.on-one.co.uk/news/events/...taiwan-or-bust


  2. #2
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    Well I see moar room there, hmm.. like the chopped bridge/rocker mount.



    Shock mount on down tube?

  3. #3
    "El Whatever"
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    Mmmmhh.... is this other pic related???

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    Oh dang, me want!
    I like bikes.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeerhillJDOG View Post
    Well I see moar room there, hmm.. like the chopped bridge/rocker mount.

    Shock mount on down tube?

    Looks like tinkering with left over 2010 frames.. rip mount off top and flip over to bottom?

    Seat tube doesnt look to be the ol' straight tube though... or is that due to the camera/lens>

  6. #6
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    Dollars to dounuts it's a 29'r.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Dollars to dounuts it's a 29'r.
    If that's the case, what the fork are they gonna put up front for it?

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    Probably drop the travel to 120 like "most" 29'r converts and slap a reba on it.
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  9. #9
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    There's a few offering of 140mm 29er forks out there now...but still
    and what are they gonna call it.. El 'bomination?

    Well just dont make it into one of those flip-turtle 96ers..

  10. #10
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    Trust me, I really don't want to see it in a 29'r wheel but it's still what's selling.

    With the way the dropouts aren't in the picture I would think that the rear hub in the other picture is meant for the new EG. Thatd be awesome but as I've said elsewhere, until some one makes a true wide-flange 142 hub I think it's worthless. (other than the increase in rigidity from the larger axle itself)
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Dollars to dounuts it's a 29'r.
    The pic is a 26" wheel frame.
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  12. #12
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    The pic is a 26" wheel frame.
    happy to hear that
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  13. #13
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The pic is a 26" wheel frame.
    Is that seat brace still a med?

    Thought for sure this was 29er when I saw ST... do I get a 29er rear end to swap??? Two bikes in one would be killer



  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeerhillJDOG View Post
    Is that seat brace still a med?

    Thought for sure this was 29er when I saw ST... do I get a 29er rear end to swap??? Two bikes in one would be killer


    Sample frames are usually "mediums".
    I have not seen the longer travel 29er frame but you can not use the same main frame for the two wheel sizes.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den View Post
    Looks like tinkering with left over 2010 frames.. rip mount off top and flip over to bottom?

    Seat tube doesnt look to be the ol' straight tube though... or is that due to the camera/lens>
    Looks curved to me, don't see any other distortion.

    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Sample frames are usually "mediums".
    I have not seen the longer travel 29er frame but you can not use the same main frame for the two wheel sizes.
    What's the HA, and is that a new down tube? lets see the rest of the photo...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeerhillJDOG View Post
    Looks curved to me, don't see any other distortion.



    What's the HA, and is that a new down tube? lets see the rest of the photo...
    I do not have the details and this is not the final design
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The pic is a 26" wheel frame.
    Make sure the chain stays fit a 650b!
    Dug-Da-Goat

    Something changes at 12,000'
    ...so welcome to the Odyssey!

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Trust me, I really don't want to see it in a 29'r wheel but it's still what's selling.

    With the way the dropouts aren't in the picture I would think that the rear hub in the other picture is meant for the new EG. Thatd be awesome but as I've said elsewhere, until some one makes a true wide-flange 142 hub I think it's worthless. (other than the increase in rigidity from the larger axle itself)

    EG with 150 hub ?
    ...

  19. #19
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    EG with 150 hub ?
    No just a proper 142mm hub, not a 135 hubshell with spacers tosssed on the axle.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaGoat View Post
    Make sure the chain stays fit a 650b!
    Big Thumbs Up to that!

  21. #21
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    So my guess is they increased the travel to 160 or 170mm by curving the seat tube for more clearance. Probably added a 142mm rear end. Looks like the axed the dual rocker position on the frame as well. Only problem with that curved seatube is that most adjustable posts might not be able to be inserted far enough.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    No just a proper 142mm hub, not a 135 hubshell with spacers tosssed on the axle.
    If moving the drive side flange outboard, I wonder how much would make a worthy upgrade in strength? I only use @ 5-6 gears on a 9spd anyway, usually skip over a gear when shifting.

    I'd be all over a wider bb, and wide-flanged 142mm hubshell, slap on a slim 6 or 7spd and move that sucker over
    ...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeerhillJDOG View Post
    If moving the drive side flange outboard, I wonder how much would make a worthy upgrade in strength? I only use @ 5-6 gears on a 9spd anyway, usually skip over a gear when shifting.

    I'd be all over a wider bb, and wide-flanged 142mm hubshell, slap on a slim 6 or 7spd and move that sucker over
    The Hope Pro II trials/singlespeed 135mm hub uses a short FH body that can take 6 cogs. Builds a near dishless wheel.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The Hope Pro II trials/singlespeed 135mm hub uses a short FH body that can take 6 cogs. Builds a near dishless wheel.
    Problem is a lack of customized cassettes... JJ and a couple of others make them but once a batch is sold, never knows when the next will be available.

    You know of any that will cater for this market on a more consistent basis?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeerhillJDOG View Post
    I'd be all over a wider bb, and wide-flanged 142mm hubshell, slap on a slim 6 or 7spd and move that sucker over
    Why not 150?? It was already there, in thru axle and most high end companies have one.

    It was just a matter of lighten it up for XC use. Competitive DH'ers are also counting grams.

    Widen the BB shell, increase diameter and move bearings inboard (with threads, please).

    How fed up would be the Q-Factor on a bike with 150mm? What's the chainline in a system like that? You'd have to move the FD outwards also...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp View Post
    Why not 150?? It was already there, in thru axle and most high end companies have one.

    It was just a matter of lighten it up for XC use. Competitive DH'ers are also counting grams.

    Widen the BB shell, increase diameter and move bearings inboard (with threads, please).

    How fed up would be the Q-Factor on a bike with 150mm? What's the chainline in a system like that? You'd have to move the FD outwards also...
    Despite claims that a 83mm BB shell is required for a "proper" chainline with a 150mm hub, a triple crank on a 68/73 BB is closer to actual correct chain line.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den View Post
    Problem is a lack of customized cassettes... JJ and a couple of others make them but once a batch is sold, never knows when the next will be available.

    You know of any that will cater for this market on a more consistent basis?
    Just make your own from mid range cassettes. The FH body of the Hope is steel.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warp View Post
    Why not 150?? It was already there, in thru axle and most high end companies have one.

    It was just a matter of lighten it up for XC use. Competitive DH'ers are also counting grams.
    ...150 lite, good way to match the 1.5 HT w/ 170mm travel


    Quote Originally Posted by Warp View Post
    Widen the BB shell, increase diameter and move bearings inboard (with threads, please).
    delete the ML DT fosho

    I would love a wider stance as well, my feet have been on the outside of the pedals for waaay too long.
    ...

  29. #29
    what's that rattle?
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    No just a proper 142mm hub, not a 135 hubshell with spacers tosssed on the axle.
    The offsets for the disc mounts and the freehub are the same for the 142 and 135 standards (relative to the centerline). The extra 3.5mm on each side is for ease of installation and allows backwards compatibility by using spacers. There is no additional real estate to move the flanges out any further. I don't think the 142 offers any real strength advantages over a 12 x 135, although the much wider adoption of the 142 standard seems to speak to its merit (or at least popularity among bike designers). Possibly because the 142 offers a QR TA that isn't a Maxle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
    Widen the BB shell, increase diameter and move bearings inboard (with threads, please).
    Why use threads? If the bearings are inboard, stainless, sealed and HUGE they shouldn't need too much maintenance. Press fit sleeves work pretty well for inset headsets - why not for cranks? I think we would have seen more adoption of the press fit standards a few years ago if it hadn't been for the HammerSchmidt experiment....

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blofeld View Post
    Press fit sleeves work pretty well for inset headsets - why not for cranks? I think we would have seen more adoption of the press fit standards a few years ago if it hadn't been for the HammerSchmidt experiment....
    I dunno... obviously I'm no design engineer, but I think the forces at the BB are much higher and receive more torque than headtube area. That would lead to flaring the BB shell easier.

    On a second thought, it works for the BB pivot bearings, so it should work OK on the BB itself.

    Threaded is harder to mess up for the home mechanic, though.
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  31. #31
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    Never had a press fit BB

    If it's a metal frame why not threaded?? Isn't press fit BB used to avoid threads on a carbon frame?
    ...

  32. #32
    what's that rattle?
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    Personally I see BB shell threads as a throwback to the days when the bearings in the BB needed rebuilding after every two rides. Threads create a heavier interface that is more difficult to machine - think about the last time you saw a single crown fork with a replaceable steerer or stanchions.

    In my experience, 24mm crank axles and external BB cups were a step up in terms of axle stiffness and strength, but a step back in terms of bearing life and performance. I see inboard bearings being made to seal more effectively and being less prone to misalignment due to poorly faced and chased shell threads.

  33. #33
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    One often overlooked problem with bearings is that >90% from what I've seen, comes under-greased. This is one little trick to make things seem to spin much smoother but that is only when brand new.

    Open and inspect even brand new bearings, esp outboard bbs as these are the most exposed to the elements. Many of mine that came with original cranks are still running smooth with this initial small investment in time and subsequent maintenance. One has close to 4200km from road grit to mud packed and being fully submerged underwater numerous times.

    But I do agree on the point that badly threaded/ misaligned shells is one of the first worry whenever I build up any bike...

  34. #34
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    Threaded is harder to mess up for the home mechanic, though
    Really? I've had more issues with mtb frames needing the threads chased than I've ever had issues pressing in american or spanish bearings into a bmx frame.

    I'm happy with the way CK builds a tool that fits there bottom brackets and forces grease into the bearings while still inside the threaded outboard bearing shell.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  35. #35
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    I think the BB used to be press fit on old MTB's.

    Definite "oh sh!t" moment when the threaded BB stops half way in. But on a MTB, i've never been able to ovalize the threaded shell, even w/ years of abuse.

    Guess the question is durability..if the press fit shell is more likely to ovalize on an xpensive MTB frame when you *****smack a bashguard, crank or pedal at speed.
    ...

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