I still have a few issues to work out, but I got my Rockstar V1 built up.
I chose the V1 because for a 24" TT Medium frame, (they call it Medium, every other mfg would call it a Large) it has a 4.25" head tube. This is important because I have a Lefty Max fork I use with it with fixed clamps, so there is only so much distance it can stretch.
I have not had this bike on the trail yet, just rolling around in my driveway. Big house project means I have to devote all of my daytime hours to non-biking construction kinda stuff. Ugh. I
I mostly just moved the parts from the RacerX29er over to this frame.
So, here's the build:
Titus Rockstar V1 frame, medium with Monarch shock
2008-ish Cannondale Lefty Max fork, set to 110mm of travel for 29er wheels. I have to reduce the travel a hair. The tire rubs the crown juuust a tad.
Cannondale Lefty For All adapter for 1 1/8" straight steerer (more on this later)
Cane Creek 110 headset, reducer bottom crown race, polished silver
Titec H-Bar, EZ-Offed to silver color, black bar tape on the inner hand position.
Ergon race grips... team green color (swap meet specials)
FSA OS115 stem with carbon faceplate, 110mm
XTR M952 cranks, 180mm, 5 arm compact spider, 20/30/42 rings Vuelta/Middleburn mix
XTR M952 Bottom Bracket, 116mm
XTR M952 rear derailleur
XT M752 front derailleur, high clamp
XT M775 Dual Control brake STI levers
XTR M965 brake calipers, Jagwire Hyflow silver brake hoses.
XT M775 13-34 cassette with 36t ebay pie plate big cog
Shimano 6 bolt rotors, the spider kind, but not Ice Tech, 180/160mm
Hayes Hugi rear hub with DT Swiss 36pt star ratchets
Cannondale Lefty front hub, silver, 32h
Light-Bicycle All Mountain carbon rims, DT Swiss 14/15 double butted spokes, brass nipples
Mystery ebay brand Thompson knock-off post, 'Giant' branded
WTB Laser V DH saddle with ti rails
Planet Bike bottle cages, one on frame, one on seatpost bottle cage clamps
WTB Werewolf LT 2.55 front tire, Geax Sugarro 2.2 rear tire, Lunar Lite tubes.
So far, I got it up and running, but here are some issues I had/have:
The rear derailleur hangs up on the rear drop out pivot, and won't let me shift into the last 3 cogs on the cassette. I had the same issue with the RacerX29er frame, but it only blocked one gear when in middle ring. This blocks 3 in the middle and big ring. I probably need to upgrade to a newer Shimano Shadow kinda derailleur. I have a new XTR chain on the shelf. Maybe I should try a longer chain... roll the derailleur back a bit.
I applied some car paint protective clear film to the frame. When cleaning off the frame with some rubbing alcohol, it melted the uncovered graphics. I cleaned up the mess, but the stickers are a bit streaked. Every other bike I have ever owned has the graphics under some kind of clearcoat, while these are directly applied to the frame. They would have been trashed in no time if I didn't put some film on them. I'm worried about what will happen if I try and remove the film.
The granny gear chainring bolts came in contact with the carbon swingarm, and wouldn't turn. It actually boogered up the swingarm finish a bit. I hope this isn't a problem. I had to install a 1mm spacer behind the bottom bracket cup on the driveside so it would clear. This was not a problem on my RX292er. I guess they never tested this with older cranks, only HT2 cranks. Wups. I guess this is just another clue from the universe to upgrade to a modern crankset. But, I like 5 arm compact. Show me a modern lightweight crankset that runs 5 arm compact, and is available with 180mm arms, and I'll get it.
Getting the Lefty steerer tube through the crown race and through the frame was a huge challenge. Basically, I had to pound the crown race on to the steerer tube while in the frame. That would have taken so much force that I'm sure I would have damaged the frame or lower headset bearing. So the hack i did was to take a file and some corse sandpaper and grind out the inside of the fork crown race a bit, until the fit was still snug, but needed less force to pound it home. Basically, steerer tube goes through fork, then goes through the crown race, through the frame through the upper headset... all at the same time. The fork crown race is too big to fit through the lower Lefty clamp. This was not a problem on a straight 1 1/8" steerer tube frame. You could just pass the crown race through the fork. A few smart blows form the underside of the fork steerer tube with a rubber dead-blow mallet and it all goes home. Snug up the bolts, and it seems solid. If figure ifI messed it up, I'm only trashing the $10 crown race. I wish I took pics of the process. It took me a couple hours to make this work.
The cable mounting points under the top tube had some welding slag in them, so I had to file them out with a nail clipper fingernail file. I normally drill out the cable stops for full length housing, but I just zip tied the shifter housing to the rear brake hose to the frame zip tie points.
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