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  1. #1
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    Need technical help with new-to-me EG

    Howdy, Titus folk. I'm somewhat back in the fold with a new-to-me '12 EG that I traded frame for frame with a too-small SX Trail. I had previously owned an '09 EG that was a pretty killer weapon for Arizona technical trail riding. Here's a pic in one of its incarnations:


    000_0048 copy by dbozman1173, on Flickr

    Having some issues on the 2012 frame related to a significant creaking sound that I can't seem to track down. I'm using the Works slackset on the frame and it was built entirely otherwise with known working parts.

    The creaking is loud. It appears to be coming from the BB area of the frame, but as most of us know that can be hard to pinpoint. Happens seated or standing and only when applying torque to the cranks. In other words, putting it in lower gears and spinning lightly on the cranks doesn't create the noise; putting real torque to the cranks does. It ONLY happens when torquing the cranks, so manuals, bunny hops, little drops, etc., don't replicate the noise.

    Honestly, my first thought is a cracked frame, but I've inspected all the welds carefully (frame is raw) and can't find anything.

    I've swapped out the entire drivetrain, including BB cups, with no result. I've swapped shocks, no result. I'm at a bit of a loss and looking for guidance as I can't tolerate a creaky bike.

    1. All pivot bolts are tight EXCEPT the main pivot above the BB. I can't seem to understand how this pivot works. The 8mm hex is drive side and it feeds into some sort of hollow tube that you can see from non-drive. The bolt is not super-loose, but I can easily move it by hand with an 8mm hex, however, I can see the hollow tube spinning freely on the non-drive as I attempt to tighten the hex. There are no wrench flats on that tube. What am I doing wrong?

    2. The der. hanger appears straight, but the bolt broke when I tried to tighten. I greased the back of the hanger and replaced the bolt, but I know this area can cause unexplained creaking.

    3. The top cup of the Works headset will not fully seat in the headtube. It's off by ~1mm. I assume this is from an improper head tube ream depth. The previous owner said he ran it this way and didn't cause issues for him.

    My first thought it to buy a full pivot rebuild kit, but I don't want to throw good money after bad chasing down noises. Plus, I'd think I could replicate the creaking just by bouncing up/down on the bike and I can't do that.

    Any help or input is appreciated. Sorry for the long-winded post.

  2. #2
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    That year frame didnt have a ream depth issue on the headtube, might just be your headset is extra deep. The two places I have had creaks on my various EG's are the derailleur hanger interface, you need to grease the hanger, the bolt, AND the derailleur bolt. The other place is the horst link bushings (bushings on the chainstays in front of the drop outs), give those a good grease job and I bet your creak goes away.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, Craig. Any input on how the main pivot works?

  4. #4
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    The pivot pin/bolt is one piece with a couple of small spacers that threads into the non drive side chainstay. You should be able to loosen the 8mm bolt and pull it out.

  5. #5
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    OK, I pulled apart the Horst bushing where the chainstay and seatstay connects. Once you remove the Torx bolts, you can separate the stays. On the chainstay portions (that sit inside the seatstays when assembled), each side has a set of plastic (delrin?) bushings that are pressed into the frame. Inside the plastic is a metal spacer that the bolt runs through.

    I assume the spacer rotates inside the delrin bushing? The driveside was seized and I ushed a blunt punch and a deadblow to force it out (along with the bushing). Non drive popped right out, except I damaged the outside of the delrin trying to push them out.

    Is it worth trying to source new parts or will a good coating of grease bring these back to life? Any tips on reassembly (what to grease, what not to grease, etc)?

  6. #6
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    Id try greasing the old set, pretty sure the seized one was the creak. Titus should have all those parts, Bikerbob too.

  7. #7
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  8. #8
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    If you can torque on the pedals enough w/o letting it roll forward, you can pinch the drive side HL and feel for movement. If you wore it out, knock will go away once you pack it tight. Kind of funky one to diagnose, mine hasn't come back since

  9. #9
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    If all checked and still squeaking...

    I had a noise issue that's a little different. Was sure it had to be the main pivot but turns out to be ill fitting hardware of the shock. Simple DIY fix using some old Igus bushing that I was too lazy to throw away
    Shimmed it here

    "3. The top cup of the Works headset will not fully seat in the headtube. It's off by ~1mm. I assume this is from an improper head tube ream depth. The previous owner said he ran it this way and didn't cause issues for him."

    I'll still say-- take it off, grind the headset cup down a little and reinstall for peace of mind for the long run...
    Last edited by anvil_den; 04-25-2013 at 01:35 AM.

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