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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Reyn's Avatar
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    ML Raceface Deus crank setup

    I'm trying to build a 2006 ML (Small) drivetrain with a RF Deus crank, XT front dr, X.9 rear dr, XT 11-34 cassette and X.0 triggers. I'd appreciate any direction you can give me on the spacer configuration needed for a correct chainline.

    Thanks!
    Reynold

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sungchang's Avatar
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    Anyone with some inputs on this one as I would like to know as well. The RF spacer doesn't seem to correspond to the instructions...

  3. #3
    FS and SS rider
    Reputation: SharkRider's Avatar
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    Just wanted to post what I had already shared with Reyn earlier. Recording for posterity.

    My experience has been with my Giant VT, but may apply to other bikes.

    Small-small gearing, chain rubs on bottom of front derailleur cage, and FD is as low it can go

    I have had this problem, but pretty much ignoring it, because I do not shift to small-small on rides (realistically, no one should, because of the angle stress put on the chain). It should be normal for the most part, because the line that is created from the small cog and the small ring is really low.

    I am also assuming that you are measuring the clearance of the lower, outer edge of the front derailleur and the big ring teeth, and not the clearance of the derailleur in its shifter-engaged resting position over the big ring? The difference is almost a couple mm, which you can recover for your small ring.

    Rubbing occurs on the inside of the rear derailleur cage when on the middle chainring and largest cog

    First thing is make sure that the drive side crank is "pressed" up against the washer and the BB cup. Make sure you take out all the gap; in fact, you should not see the spindle on either side of the BB shell.

    Next, put the chain on the middle of both front and rear gears. Does this draw a straight line?

    On my VT, I had to move one of the spacers over from the drive- to the non-drive side. My BB shell is 68 mm, and according to the RF directions, I should have two spacers on the drive side, but that was actually causing some shifting issues for me (not really "ghost shifting," but essentially I could not get the gears to shift fast
    enough).

    I then noticed the angle created by the spacing (as well as the gap between the chainstay and crankarms not being equal on both sides).

    Once I moved the spacer over, the gap was equal, the drive train angle was straight, and shifting was lightening fast.

    You may have to do the same if you are exhibiting the same symptoms.

    Long cage rear derailleur? Perhaps hub differences?

    The rear derailleur cage should not really play in all this. But, you reminded me that there ARE hub differences!

    I have two wheelsets that revealed to me that the cassette alignment is different. I found that my WTB LaserDiscs places my cassette a tad further INSIDE of the dish than my Mavic Crosslands.

    I was switching wheels between my bike, and noticed that it was nearly 1/2 shift off when changing gears!

    Hope this helps. I'm gonna be helping sungchang with his build tonight, and I'll see if I see anything interesting come out of it.
    Just keep going....

  4. #4
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    Minimum on drive side

    I have an 05 large ML and I have just the elastomer washer(the minimum amount of spacers you can run) on the drive side and I believe the 1 mm spacer on the non-drive side, she runs great that way.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    On SharkRiders advice I moved the 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side (the RF directions said it should be on the drive side, but that wasn't working). Much better - the shifting is great!

  6. #6
    "Its All Good"
    Reputation: Whafe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reyn
    On SharkRiders advice I moved the 2.5mm spacer to the non-drive side (the RF directions said it should be on the drive side, but that wasn't working). Much better - the shifting is great!
    Reyn, mine is as you mentioned, runs perfect. Great crankset.............

    Just a thought on your build. Firstly build looks great. Is it worth while having the XO triggers if you are going to run an X9 rare. It will work great, but performance is vastly better in opinion with the XO triggers and an XO rare Der.

    Am not wanting to put a dampener on the build, just a thought.....
    The_Lecht_Rocks: whafe - cheeers - may i offer an official apology for the wagon wheeler "dis-belief"

  7. #7
    mtbr member
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    Hmm, well I could move the X.9 to my hardtail... Definitely like your build.

  8. #8
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    I have had a similar situation with LX cranks on my Moto-Lite. Shimano says to put the spacer on the drive side, but that was causing a whacked out chain line. I moved it to the non-drive side and it lines up great! Though, I still can't get my X-Gen front derailleur dialed in just right. Might be time to go back to my trusty XT?

  9. #9
    a.k.a. BicycleKicks
    Reputation: 40hills's Avatar
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    That's my exact build for my Spider... except I have the X.9 triggers. I recall having to swap the spacers around also and I ended up having to replace one of them with a narrower one to reduce the side preload on the bearings. I could freewheel the crank and it seemed to hang up ever so slightly in certain spots... changing out the fat washer for one of the provided narrrower ones fixed it and they now spin better than my LX set on my other bike. Sorry I can't recall what sizes I used and exactly how they're positioned... don't be afraid to move them around like this to get it working properly.
    I read that on the internet.

  10. #10
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    BB spacers

    I have raceface Evolve XC cranks and after the Raceface X-type bb failed after only a few months I changed to LX bb. The spacer supposed to go on the drive side but that does not give a perfect chainline for the ML. I asked Titus about that and unfortunately can't find the reply. Just remember that it would require non-standard spacers to get a perfect chainline(something like 1.5mm on drive side and 1mm on non-drive side but that could be wrong) I couldn't find any non-standard spacers in South Africa where I live and the drivetrain shifts perfectly anyway.
    If/When I find the recommendation will post it.
    Goatman
    - It's not the destination that counts but how you get there -

  11. #11
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
    Reputation: crisillo's Avatar
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    other spacers

    Quote Originally Posted by goatman
    I have raceface Evolve XC cranks and after the Raceface X-type bb failed after only a few months I changed to LX bb. The spacer supposed to go on the drive side but that does not give a perfect chainline for the ML. I asked Titus about that and unfortunately can't find the reply. Just remember that it would require non-standard spacers to get a perfect chainline(something like 1.5mm on drive side and 1mm on non-drive side but that could be wrong) I couldn't find any non-standard spacers in South Africa where I live and the drivetrain shifts perfectly anyway.
    If/When I find the recommendation will post it.
    There are 1.8mm and 0.7mm spacers available from Shimano (the standard one is 2.5mm)

    Here in Germany, I got some from http://www.bike-components.de/catalo...ducts_id=12896

    Maybe you could talk to the South African Shimano dealer.

    Cheers,
    Cris

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