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  1. #1
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    Minimum Seatpost Insertion for ML/FTM

    On my other bikes, I make sure the seatpost is long enough that the bottom is at least as low as the top tube/seat tube junction (where the top tube meets the seat tube).

    But on my Motolite (and on FTMs), there is that extra brace that comes up from the top tube to near the opening of the seat tube. Right now, the bottom of my seatpost doesn't go higher than the lower junction (where the top tube and seat tube meet).

    But I'm wondering if it would be safe to run a shorter post that comes up to the higher brace/seat tube junction. Is anybody's seatpost installed this way?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    More=Better

    I would run it at least to the bottom of the seatube brace, the less leverage on that area the better. Is saving 50 grams of seatpost that important to you?

  3. #3
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    Not at all

    I completely agree with you. I'm using a Thomson 410 length post that used to go down almost to the derailleur, but I'm having some issues.

    I always grease the post to prevent seizing, but more than once, metal shavings stuck to the grease and made removing the post difficult. I seemed like it was coming from the hole inside the seat tube where the top tube was welded onto it.

    I cleaned the crap out of the seat tube interior and cut the post so it goes down to the bottom of the top tube junction. I also did not grease the bottom 1-1/2" of the post to prevent extraneous particles from sticking to the bottom.

    But an unbelievably annoying creak developed that sounds (and feels) like it's coming from that ungreased area. Believe me, I checked everything else prior: seat clamp, seatpost clamp, saddle rails, pedals, BB, headset, stem, handlebars.

    So last night I greased the whole post and the noise went away. I'll have to verify it on my next ride. I just don't want stuff sticking to the post and scratching up the seat tube whenever I have to remove it.

    Maybe I'm being too anal retentive...
    Last edited by MootsRider; 03-19-2011 at 08:21 PM.

  4. #4
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    Is your saddle WTB? all the way back on the rails?

    I was going to post about loud popping and cracking sounds coming from both my old WTB saddle, and the test ride ones I'm trying out.

    Loud when I change my weight around, and even when I take the post off, push/pulling on the front and back of the saddle. I'm not sure if it's coming from where the rails connect to the saddle or the Thomson clamp.

  5. #5
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    Switched between a WTB and Terry. Greased the clamp area, dripped lube in where the rails enter the saddles, even greased the lower clamp on the Thomson where it slides on the main post for angle adjustment.

    Still heard the creak. I put my hand all along the post and seat tube and actually felt it down on the seat tube.

    I really hope that regreasing the entire post in the tube is the fix.
    Last edited by MootsRider; 03-19-2011 at 11:09 PM.

  6. #6
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    I'm going to try to wrap some leather around the rails for a ride to see if it goes away.. can't stand the loud ass creaking noises when it's nice and quiet on the trail.

    Have you heard the creak on your bike when pushing the post back and forth without the saddle on?
    Last edited by Deerhill; 03-19-2011 at 08:06 PM.

  7. #7
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    Haha! I know exactly what you mean! It drives me nuts! Try teflon tape first, instead of leather. It's not as thick and will allow the clamp a more secure grip on the rails.

    No, the freakin thing only creaked when I was seated, in my normal riding position, with my weight on the saddle.


    btw, on my WTB, I noticed that the rails don't mate exactly with the grooves on the Thomson clamp. The rails' spacing is a little wider.
    Last edited by MootsRider; 03-19-2011 at 11:12 PM.

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