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  1. #1
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    Handling changes.

    I'd like to make some changes on my moto lite. The main thing I want to change is to get more weight on the nose. It's a medium, has 130mm fox float rl fork, a 90mm stem with lo rise bars. It's just too light on the frt for my riding style. What are some simple changes that would affect that. The 90mm stem is about right for my reach and I only like riser bars.

  2. #2
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    lower your fork. A lot of folks (me included) feel 120mm creates the most neutral handling on the MotoLite. I'm also getting ready to install a Crank Bros. Cobalt headset, which should further lower the front end by ~4mm (plus it's lighter and looks cool).

    You should also try moving your saddle forward as the ML has a pretty slack STA. At a minimum, use a straight seatpost and then try moving the seat forward 5mm at a time to see if that helps.

    One final suggestion, and this one is counter-intuitive, but I found using a little more sag actually improved handling. I think this is because you lower the bb height and center of gravity. Whatever the reason, I really prefer the way the bike rides with 28-30% sag.

  3. #3
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    I like the rear stiff for normal xc stuff. I may lower the pressure in the frt as a start. Best I could tell to lower/shorten the travel, you add spacers to the spring. I don't have any unless they stay in the fork and are just rearranged. And yes that STA is really different from what I'm used to. I could tell from my first ride today that there's alot of minor tweaking I'll want to do.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironlegsracer
    I'd like to make some changes on my moto lite. The main thing I want to change is to get more weight on the nose. It's a medium, has 130mm fox float rl fork, a 90mm stem with lo rise bars. It's just too light on the frt for my riding style. What are some simple changes that would affect that. The 90mm stem is about right for my reach and I only like riser bars.
    You have a fair amount of spacers under the stem. Move them to the top, and/or flip the stem. Easy to try.

    There are also flat bars with the same width and sweep as risers.

    The saddle position can be critical to weight distribution setup. I wrote this up for designing frames but I also use the method for setup on new bikes:
    WWTP002: The Front Half

    If you do move the saddle forward you will likely need a longer stem.
    Last edited by shiggy; 12-25-2010 at 08:17 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dulyebr
    lower your fork. A lot of folks (me included) feel 120mm creates the most neutral handling on the MotoLite. I'm also getting ready to install a Crank Bros. Cobalt headset, which should further lower the front end by ~4mm (plus it's lighter and looks cool).

    You should also try moving your saddle forward as the ML has a pretty slack STA. At a minimum, use a straight seatpost and then try moving the seat forward 5mm at a time to see if that helps.

    One final suggestion, and this one is counter-intuitive, but I found using a little more sag actually improved handling. I think this is because you lower the bb height and center of gravity. Whatever the reason, I really prefer the way the bike rides with 28-30% sag.
    Be careful of fork crown/down tube interference with the Crank Bros headset.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Be careful of fork crown/down tube interference with the Crank Bros headset.

    great thought. just checked; looks like it will be fine.

    thanks

  7. #7
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    The ML has a light front end. I just moved from the MaxM saddle that came with my 2007 ML to a Gobi XM, which is longer and has helped my climbing tremendously. That extra length lets me ride on the nose perfectly to climb everything with the fork fully extended (and I run a 160mm fork).

    Also, running a short stem with wide bars worked great for me as well.

  8. #8
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    Thought I'd give an update.
    After looking and thinking about what I was looking for, I decided to make 3 simple easy non threatning changes. By that I mean changes that would be easily changed back.

    Change 1, changed it back to 4" rear travel. for ligh xc stuff and climbing it worked so good I had no need to bother with rear lock out.

    Change 2, I swapped the stem spacers without cutting the steerer tube to lower the stem. If I decide to keep it that way I'll cut it later.

    Change 3, it did cost money but it saved weight too. I put an Easton carbon ZERO setback seatpost on it. I'm thinking this was the change that made the most difference to achieve my goal of more frt weight. The seatpost easily moved the seat 3/4" forward. I like the way it pedals better and when I go hrough the corners I can shift my weight back without losing the front end/grip.

    I still may drop the fork to 100mm. My average xc ride is fairly tame terrain with no major drops. I still make some other suttle changes just not sure yet.

    The 3 changes mentioned above were quick and simple yet made it ride like a completely different bike. I really enjoyed the ride with that setup. The Titus is really a smooth good handling bike despite the fact it is larger than most medium bikes I've ridden before. It's a big change for me cause I've always liked a small bike's handling. My Mongoose was a small with a little longer stem, and I was very quick through the trees on it.

    With more time on the Titus I think I'll be back up to speed soon!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironlegsracer
    ... and when I go through the corners I can shift my weight back without losing the front end/grip...
    If anything, you should move your weight forward in the corners
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  10. #10
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    I'm a former dirt biker, I move forward going in and back coming out of corners. That's seems to be the way I ride.

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