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  1. #1
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    Guapo v4 wishlist - ideas

    Updated to include ideas from everyone in this thread! (as of whenever my last post is below)

    Code:
    >Idea					How many have asked?
    dropper post cable guides		1111
    improved cable routing (gear/brake)	1111
    Rear axle bolt through (any width)	1111
    ISCG tabs allow 2x chainset+device 	1111
    higher bb				111
    Rear axle 142mm				11
    Steeper seat angle			11
    
    >Everything below has only been said once i think?
    slacker head angle			1
    different headset cup size		1
    more colour options			1
    colour matching on rocker/shock		1
    coil shock option			1
    make bb pivot accessible wih cranks on	1
    pm rear brake mount			1
    "moar travels"				1
    bottle cage bosses			1
    tolerance of seatube (too loose?)	1
    bearing caps				1
    ***
    my original post below
    ***


    ok i haven't even built my EG v3 yet due to illness and other delays but already have ideas from discussions here and on STW. wondered what you'd all think?

    1) move ISCG tabs inboard? to allow 2x chain devices
    2) add bottle cage bosses to downtube
    3) more shock mount positions? there are two holes but very close. also not much clearance for CCDBair
    4) more improvements to the cable routing? suggestions please!
    5) can you make the rocker finish match and supply white Monarch on white / raw frames.

    things which won't happen:

    i) bolt through rear end? apparently only for 29er, easier for 26 upgrades, not going to happen :/
    ii) geometry changes.. most people love the EG ride, if you don't get another bike


    ... your ideas here?

    6) maybe supply some spare bushes and touch up paint with the painted frames? would be nice..


    yeah good job Brant & Co., thanks for a great frame at a great price. i still don't think there's anything that can touch it for quality vs price.
    Last edited by Smiff; 09-01-2012 at 02:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'd like to see:
    12-142 rear as an option
    ISCG tabs recessed
    Dropper post routing

  3. #3
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    - slightly steeper seat angle
    - tapered steerer tube with ZS44 upper diameter and ZS56 lower diameter. You can ride all types of steerer tubes/headsets, have also the lower cups internal = more options.
    - cable routing for dropper posts would be highly appreciated!

    personally I don't need 142x12 or Syntace X12. 135mm gives you more options with QR or with 10mm thru axle and it's stiff enough.

  4. #4
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    ok so still a few more things could be done with cable routing.

    what does an even bigger headtube do, let you run 1.5" forks? they're pretty rare right?

    also from other thread sounds like CCDBA may not be best shock.. perhaps a Monarch+ option if On-one can source them at good price.. not sure not many people have all the shocks to try, something brant could maybe look into.

  5. #5
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    Head tube cable routing like V1 with tabs. Higher bottom bracket. Anodized finishes like the brown of old or even custom colors for a price.

    Really I just finished a day of runs down the mountain on v1 and then two runs on v3 and I'm compiling my thoughts over a few beers so ill get back to you. No WiFi in our room and the lobby sucks.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  6. #6
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    I'm listening of course.

  7. #7
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    The current EG is already a pretty dialled bike, but I would not mind having:

    -Rear thru axle. It doesn't matter if its 142 or 135mm. Maybe have replaceable dropouts like the GT Sanction/Force so riders can choose QR or TA.
    -Coil shock option would be nice
    -Switch the bottom bracket pivot access to the non-drive side so checking/tightening it doesn't require removing the cranks
    -Recess the ISCG tabs. Adding spacers is easy. Adjusting the other way...not so much.
    -Improve the cable routing. The top tube guides are too close to the shock mount.

  8. #8
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    el G-1

    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    I'm listening of course.

    I told Siri "give me el G w/ 142 and moar travels", two renderings came out

  9. #9
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    1. Higher BB
    2. dropper post cable/hose routing
    3. Full-length gear housing routing
    4. Slacker head angle [currently rolling the 1.5 degree Angleset with a 140/180 TALAS to get it dialled in nicely]
    5. Steeper seat angle
    6. Higher BB

    I can tweak/mod everything except for the BB height. If it doesn't get higher on the next iteration, I'll be forced to shop elsewhere.
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  10. #10
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    Oh yeah...post mount brake tabs

  11. #11
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    isn't the low bb a good part of why we love the ride though? pinkrobe sounds like you use it for pretty big DH?

    sorry for neglecting the thread, i will edit my original post later and show in order of most requested or something.

    been out on my EG today (only 3rd ride)... i'd give it a 9/10 for climbing and 6/10 for descending so far, weirdly - expectation was it'd descend great but slow me on climbs! - not so. but this is with a 150mm revelation and short headset.. probably a longer one of either would bring the descending up

  12. #12
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    3. Full-length gear housing routing
    Doesn't v3 alread have that or is it just mine?
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  13. #13
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    added tally of everyone's suggestions to 1st post

    it says something about loyalty to this bike that there are people who would seriously buy it again if some of these fixed

  14. #14
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    my vote on improvement over v3

    1. dropper post cable guide regular + (possible for integrated post like reverb stealth and KS integral?)
    2. improve cable routing
    3. rear through axle

    these are just minor feature improvement. i also hope to see titus making bigger tweak to the frame like longer rear travel or geometry tweak down the road on v5 or later

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by miniwisejosh View Post
    -Switch the bottom bracket pivot access to the non-drive side so checking/tightening it doesn't require removing the cranks
    might not need to remove cranks w/ little dremel action

    make sure you put loctite on the threads


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post

    been out on my EG today (only 3rd ride)... i'd give it a 9/10 for climbing and 6/10 for descending so far, weirdly - expectation was it'd descend great but slow me on climbs! - not so. but this is with a 150mm revelation and short headset.. probably a longer one of either would bring the descending up
    The descend is stable but bike feels retarded in response to steering?
    This frame gives a silly amount of traction and stability when properly set up so much so you can afford to push it a little more than usual... Off the saddle and move those hips around

    if things are kicking up in the rear...check the sag. 30% is pretty much the magical number most agree on,

  17. #17
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    I dont agree with Higher BB, if you have pedal strikes its better to increase pedal skills than making the bike less stable and accurate.

  18. #18
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    I dont agree with Higher BB, if you have pedal strikes its better to increase pedal skills than making the bike less stable and accurate.
    That's your opinion. If I didn't pedal through some sections in places I ride I would get stopped dead. Lots of steep switch backs with tight bench cuts require higher bottom brackets.

    It isn't all about skill some times. just good ol'e proper engineering for the trails you ride on.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    That's your opinion. If I didn't pedal through some sections in places I ride I would get stopped dead. Lots of steep switch backs with tight bench cuts require higher bottom brackets.

    It isn't all about skill some times. just good ol'e proper engineering for the trails you ride on.
    I see .. whats your fork travel?
    ( or better your AC and sag front and rear )
    Last edited by ocean_29; 09-01-2012 at 05:35 AM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den View Post
    The descend is stable but bike feels retarded in response to steering?
    no it actually feels too quick with a 50mm stem (like it wants to dive/tuck in sometimes) and better but not right with 65mm..
    but you are right about the rear sag i think, at 110psi i got 25% felt ok, at 125 psi i got 20% and nowhere near full travel, felt worse.
    this is why i need longer fork/headset!

    i'm not sure about all these suggestions about longer travel/higher bb etc.. aren't you making it a different bike? i'll include them still just so it's fair/balanced for brant.

    im also getting pedal strikes btw, but i realise
    1) i need to adjust a bit, it's mostly my fault
    2) once i raise the front end by 10mm i'll raise the bb by about 5mm or something?
    3) i assume the low BB is essential part of the "surfy" feel of this bike?
    Last edited by Smiff; 09-01-2012 at 05:26 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    2) once i raise the front end by 10mm i'll raise the bb by about 5mm or something?
    yes, with simlpe euclidean geometry you know exaclty the rise, but raise with your hand the frond end to get a general picture...

  22. #22
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    I've put in a couple of rides on my new EG and here are some suggestions for the next revision:

    1. Slightly higher bb - I like a low bb, but I'm getting more pedal strikes than I'm used to (previous bike was a banshee spitfire which has a pretty low bb too), maybe just a slight raise

    2. Some kind of rear through-axle setup - I don't really notice the rear being flexy, but I see this as more of a 'Keeping up with the Jone's' kind of thing

    3. Some kind of fancy bearing caps - this is just an aesthetic thing, but I think that bearing caps (like on Giant's, Norco's, etc) give the bike a finished look.

  23. #23
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    updated table again.
    you can see higher bb and dropper guides are moving up

    you can add more wants, but please don't ask more than once for anything, makes this confusing.

    btw only problem i have with cable routing is around the seattube during suspension travel, there's a lot of slack to deal with.
    not sure why you'd want your cables attached to the headtube? if you cross them under the shock, they naturally go nicely around the headtube, no rub, no noise

    did no one else get a seattube that was a bit too big? long post about this on ST uk forum, basically i could get a wrap of clear tape about my post and insert it without snagging, but it doesn't seem to slip now so i'm not tooo bothered. this happened with Thomson and with a correctly plastic shimmed 27.2 so appears to be bike.
    Last edited by Smiff; 09-01-2012 at 06:05 AM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Doesn't v3 alread have that or is it just mine?
    Mine has it too if understood correctly the request...
    "Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  25. #25
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    They have had full length gear housing runs since V2.

  26. #26
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    size?

    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    did no one else get a seattube that was a bit too big? long post about this on ST uk forum, basically i could get a wrap of clear tape about my post and insert it without snagging, but it doesn't seem to slip now so i'm not tooo bothered. this happened with Thomson and with a correctly plastic shimmed 27.2 so appears to be bike.
    You have painted or ano frame? I wore out (wasted) the thompsons on mine, that is for sure. They're the loong posts though, in at least 1" below tt,, no cracks yet

    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den View Post
    This frame gives a silly amount of traction and stability when properly set up so much so you can afford to push it a little more than usual... Off the saddle and move those hips around

    if things are kicking up in the rear...check the sag. 30% is pretty much the magical number most agree on,
    and/or use outside knee to lean it down

  27. #27
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    I want a chain guide now. I would like to see proper iscg05 tabs with a proper offset. Move it up the list one more!
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  28. #28
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    egcellent

    175mm travel, move it up the list!


    and use chainstay tubes for new version of seatstays.. one piece 142 of course

  29. #29
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    DeerhillJ, i have an ano raw, but surely paint aren't painted on inside of tubes anyway? i am unsure whether the seattube is reamed too big, was too big from tube supplier (this is only plain tube on bike), or the top just got splayed above the "slit" on my frame. after being clamped tight for a bit it seems to have improved though. i saw one person on STW mention they couldn't get any seattube to fit and had returned and given up on the EG because of it. odd. don't have accurate enough caliper to confirm.

    are you serious about wanting 20mm more rear travel?

  30. #30
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    are you serious about wanting 20mm more rear travel?
    I could get on board with that. But I'd like to see something to replace the FTM first.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

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    right, 175mm is a different bike.. what you're really asking is "can Titus/on-one have a long travel dh bike"? or do you really want a 175mm AM/XC bike
    gonna stop counting "moar travels" then sorry

    any other small tweaks anyone has though of? i'm guessing another production run wouldn't be till at least next summer for 2014?

  32. #32
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    it's your list Smiff, do what you want

    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    DeerhillJ, i have an ano raw, but surely paint aren't painted on inside of tubes anyway?

    are you serious about wanting 20mm more rear travel?
    Not the paint, the ano covers the whole surface of the frame as it is dipped, ano coat wears off on each end where the seat post is, creates a bit of room.... don't think your "raw" is ano but finished and cleared, so basically painted?

    Yes. You will know when I am joking.. and probably have ps thrown in

    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    right, 175mm is a different bike.. what you're really asking is "can Titus/on-one have a long travel dh bike"? or do you really want a 175mm AM/XC bike
    gonna stop counting "moar travels" then sorry
    It's your list Smiff, I think FR is a different bike as well, 25mm more travel than current EG is not long travel dh. I can tell we have different thoughts on this and that is fine, though with your 150mm fork EG, think you're doing the right thing by getting a larger stack headset (esp. on that lower bb height MK3). As for your AM/XC comment, I pretty much draw the line where my current EG is, several threads on here about a FR, don't think I'm the only one? I'd post a quick/dirty ps of FR version, you probably wouldn't want to see it : P
    Last edited by J:; 09-02-2012 at 10:55 AM.

  33. #33
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    hehe well i doubt the thickness of the ano is what we're talking about, this was quite sloppy, it'd be about 10 microns or something tighter

    didn't realise bb was lower on v3.. is that just because ha is slacker?


    actually there was some complaints about finish on raw but couldn't really understand what he was on about.. does anyone think the raw doesn't look right/good? or is rough edges or something that people don't like?

  34. #34
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    My understanding is that the raw is clear anodized over the cleaned up raw finish, it will have imperfections. What part of "raw" does this guy not understand?

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    exactly, my only criticism was the rocker not matching the rest. if i could buy a black or white rocker, i'm probably now vain enough to change it.

    that rocker looks heavy. is it? is it forged aly? could it be made lighter (magnesium?)

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    exactly, my only criticism was the rocker not matching the rest. if i could buy a black or white rocker, i'm probably now vain enough to change it.

    that rocker looks heavy. is it? is it forged aly? could it be made lighter (magnesium?)
    Wouldnt touch the rocker any more than needed. Looking at the linkage curve and force/loads subjected as the bike moves into its travel... this solid one piece imo would be a central part of this whole frame's design holding things up nicely.

    Agree on the color choice though-- have seen diff color rockers came on similar color frames-- no telling what's gonna pop out of the box

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    exactly, my only criticism was the rocker not matching the rest. if i could buy a black or white rocker, i'm probably now vain enough to change it.

    that rocker looks heavy. is it? is it forged aly? could it be made lighter (magnesium?)
    You can buy a black rocker
    Titus El Guapo Rocker

    And bling kits:
    Titus Anodized upgrade kit

    As for rocker weight, I'd rather keep the current materials and price instead of charging more to shave a few grams with magnesium or carbon. The frame is already pretty light

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    I want a chain guide now. I would like to see proper iscg05 tabs with a proper offset. Move it up the list one more!
    +1 for that...
    "Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by miniwisejosh View Post
    You can buy a black rocker
    Titus El Guapo Rocker

    And bling kits:
    Titus Anodized upgrade kit

    As for rocker weight, I'd rather keep the current materials and price instead of charging more to shave a few grams with magnesium or carbon. The frame is already pretty light
    Can the black rocker be stripped or something? I would prefer it silver. I think it will match better with the orange frame.
    "Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  40. #40
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    Can the black rocker be stripped or something? I would prefer it silver. I think it will match better with the orange frame.
    Going to try and strip my white one and I'll get back to you. Going to try and polish it in the tumbler I use to polish the brass for my shells.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Gr View Post
    Can the black rocker be stripped or something? I would prefer it silver. I think it will match better with the orange frame.

    Check the link I posted. You can buy them in silver too. I don't think the rocker can be stripped. It looks anodized. You could always buy some paint stripper and see what happens.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    Going to try and strip my white one and I'll get back to you. Going to try and polish it in the tumbler I use to polish the brass for my shells.
    Yes please!
    "Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by miniwisejosh View Post
    Check the link I posted. You can buy them in silver too. I don't think the rocker can be stripped. It looks anodized. You could always buy some paint stripper and see what happens.
    I did but is a 100$ and I just bought my frame... It's a pity...
    "Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    isn't the low bb a good part of why we love the ride though? pinkrobe sounds like you use it for pretty big DH?
    Well, there's low BB and LOW BB. The EG is more of a XC bike for me [I have a DH bike as well], but I do enjoy a rollicking descent as much as the next person. I'm tired of the near-guaranteed pedal strikes whilst climbing. The combination of the BB height and the tendency to settle into the middle of the travel put me a bit lower than I'd like, even with ProPedal on. Flip the PP off for the descents and it's glorious, super-active and plush. Why can't I have my cake and eat it too?
    @pinkrobeyyc
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    do you mean PP (you have a fox shock?) or the Monarch lever? the Monarch lever is nothing like PP nor a lockout, as the shock still settles as far into stroke. whereas a Fox PP shock actually holds it higher. Monarch lever basically affects the bump response only, so it may hold you higher in some situations like repeated hits, but not when smoothly riding over one big lump. Correct me if i'm wrong here. have discussed this with Brant because i thought my Monarch wasn't working right (its also losing air but thats separate issue!).

    Basically there is no way with the stock shock to hold the back end of the bike high on climbs (like i can with the remote on my RS Revelation).

    I agree basically, the shock and frame together put the bb height low and make the bike difficult on some climbs. 155mm is a lot of travel. it would be nice to have something like a real lockout.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smiff View Post
    do you mean PP (you have a fox shock?) or the Monarch lever? the Monarch lever is nothing like PP nor a lockout, as the shock still settles as far into stroke. whereas a Fox PP shock actually holds it higher. Monarch lever basically affects the bump response only, so it may hold you higher in some situations like repeated hits, but not when smoothly riding over one big lump. Correct me if i'm wrong here. have discussed this with Brant because i thought my Monarch wasn't working right (its also losing air but thats separate issue!).

    Basically there is no way with the stock shock to hold the back end of the bike high on climbs (like i can with the remote on my RS Revelation).

    I agree basically, the shock and frame together put the bb height low and make the bike difficult on some climbs. 155mm is a lot of travel. it would be nice to have something like a real lockout.
    PP = Fox ProPedal on the RP23 shock in my case. I don't know if the PP actually holds the bike higher in its travel, at least mine doesn't.
    @pinkrobeyyc
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    i guess we can remove the bb height stuff since it all turned out to be a mistake. presuming those complaining have the 12.5" BB not the 13.4" intended.

    anyone have any other ideas/issues come up at all?

  48. #48
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    No new ideas, just the same small tweaks I mentioned before.

    -Rear thru axle. It doesn't matter if its 142 or 135mm. Maybe have replaceable dropouts like the GT Sanction/Force so riders can choose QR or TA.
    -Coil shock option would be nice
    -Switch the bottom bracket pivot access to the non-drive side so checking/tightening it doesn't require removing the cranks
    -Recess the ISCG tabs. Adding spacers is easy. Adjusting the other way...not so much.
    -Improve the cable routing. The top tube guides are too close to the shock mount.

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    am i being a bit dumb here but, what's the issue with ISCG05 tabs on the current frame? I've got a 2x chain guide on without issue!?!?

  50. #50
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    is your ISCG tab flush with edge of bb shell? mine is (was) and this doesn't work if you have an inner ring afaik.

    ah poopy, there's a limit to how long you can edit posts for. can't update first post any more..

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