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  1. #1
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    Ghost Shifting Motolite...The Final Solution

    I have an 05 ML with freeride lowers which I have had since August of 05, since day one it has ghost shifted in the lower third of the rear cogs. I have tried every conceivable cable routing method, every brand of cable including nokons. While it would go away for a few rides it would always rear its ugly head sooner or later. While pedalling fast in the middle or big ring in the lower third of the cogs while the suspension was cycling deep in its travel it would always appear. Well I finally bit the bullet and drilled out the rear cable stops and ran a full length rear cable housing, I piggy-backed the the front half of the housing on the rear brake cable as I couldnt get a drill bit up into those cable guides. Three rides on it now and it hasnt ghost shifted once, two of the rides have been on a trail where it ALWAYS would ghost shift.
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  2. #2
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    You should clean your Titus

    and get your road bike muddy
    Visiting St george/Hurricane? Stay at my vacation rental. Discounts for MTB's

    http://www.vrbo.com/392904

    PM me

  3. #3
    "El Whatever"
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    Cool, bro!!

    Thanks for sharing!
    Check my Site

  4. #4
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    You caught me...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalfaraway
    and get your road bike muddy
    I hadnt cleaned the bike in two rides but I did today, I also drilled out the cable stops on the frame and ran the entire cable through the stops and over the shock strut. The road bike hardly ever sees the road, it just sits on the trainer and I pedal my ass off on it.

  5. #5
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    try this

    works for me.

    Texas 09 021.JPG
    what doesn't kill you makes you stronger

  6. #6
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    The problem is probably with the part of housing that sits between seatstay and top tube housing stops - if it is not exactly correct length quality housing the ghost shifting is guaranteed. This is probably more evident with Motolites than my HH100x due more travel.

    I set the housing length so that it is almost straight when I'm sitting on the bike, so it is couple of mm's short when there is no sag on the shock. I've been thinking to drill the stops for full length housing but have been too lazy to do it.

  7. #7
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    I've tried every possible solution over the past 3 1/2 years

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnerd
    works for me.

    Texas 09 021.JPG
    Its too late nayway, I drilled out the stops. Looks like your cable is about to saw your top tube in half!

  8. #8
    dog
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    sit! stay!
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    maybe if you stopped using it to hit 15 gaps...
    i need to develop my crashing skills...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnerd
    works for me.

    Texas 09 021.JPG
    I can confirm that this works. It's the only way that got rid of the ghost shifting problems, and I have been riding this way for last two years.

  10. #10
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    looks are deceiving

    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr
    Looks like your cable is about to saw your top tube in half!
    yeah, I was concerned about wear on the paint when I set up this cable routing.
    The photo picked up a reflection of some clear tape that is patched on the frame in wear locations, so it looks wierd. But the ghost shifting is a thing of the past.
    what doesn't kill you makes you stronger

  11. #11
    Training for vacation
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    Just an idea

    One thing that has really bothered me about the ML is how the cables and hoses bow between the rockers when the suspension compresses. This bowing eats into the rockers and the top tube. I have tried running the cables short but that resulted in ghost shifting and I had to be on the bike in order to adjust the RD properly. BLEH.

    I have been wanting to run full length cables but I don't like the idea of drilling out my cable stops. My first idea started with running the cables under the down tube. If you run the cables down just over the bottom bracket and on top of the chain stays the amount of cable movement is significantly less than when you run them on top of the seat stays. I abandoned the idea when i realized that I didnt want to run stick-on cable guides or pony up the $80 for new hydraulic hoses and fittings.

    I sought out a way to run the cables as is with no money spent beyond the cabling that I already had. Below is what I am going with, the bike is still in process of a rebuild so the actual path is TBD. Just wanted to share an ugly but cheap way of running full cables.
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    • File Type: jpg 4.JPG (254.5 KB, 154 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.JPG (204.0 KB, 260 views)

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