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  1. #1
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    Building a carbon Rockstar

    Hi,

    I've ordered a Large Carbon Rockstar from On-One UK.


    build spec (for now)
    carbon rockstar Large with stock monarch rt3 damper

    Cane Creek 42&52mm headset

    white RockShox Sid RL 100mm tapered with poploc

    ZTR Flow ex rims with Novatec ds811/812 hubs

    KS lev dropper seatpost

    Hope Tech EVO M4 with 180mm disc front
    Hope Tech EVO X2 with 160mm disc rear

    X9 derailleurs
    X7 shifters

    X9 GXP crank. 2-speed

    White Uno steerer and stem, white spacers

  2. #2
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    Looks sweet. You are going to love the Hope brakes. I always had a dropper post on my 26" bikes but I have found that I dont need it on the 29. The feeling of sitting in the bike on the 29 vs. being on top of the bike on the 26" gives me room to move around and get off the back of the bike for the steep techy stuff. Just my .02.

  3. #3
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    Hi Craig,

    thanks!

    as for the dropper: it's coming off my 2012 Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail XL 29er. And I really loved it on that bike. But I'll try with a fixed seatpost first on the Rockstar to see if I like it. Don't like the idea of needing to run an extra cable to the rear because that would't fit inside the frame.

  4. #4
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    Mounted some parts:

    Hope M4 with the old adapter, will be Hope as well:

    Hope Tech Evo:

  5. #5
    ballbuster
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    Nice! I love Hope brakes too. I've been running the same set of Mono Minis on my singlespeed since 2004. I probably have like 3k miles on them, including 3 24Hour races. I just rebuilt one of them last year when it started to seep fluid out of a piston seal. Refurb both ends for like $30 in parts including the levers.

    If they made them Dual Control like Shimano did, I would have Hopes on all my bikes.

    So yeah, you're getting me all fired up to build my Rockstar (V1, aluminum) tonight. I figured I can rob one of my other frames of it's top Zero Stack headset. I got the 1.5 bottom today. The CC 110 headset in silver won't be in until late next week, and I wanna get on the trail ASAFP with this thing.

  6. #6
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    Sure hope you are clamping that frame in the stand VERY LIGHTLY!

  7. #7
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    Hi
    How stiff are these in the rear?
    I have a voodoo Canzo that is way too flexy for my liking and was thinking this may be a reasonable upgrade
    Also FSR suspension right?

  8. #8
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    Craig, jup! it just holds the frame there.... Normally I would use the seatpost to hold the bike but that's not a nice solution with a dropper.

    I Like Dirt: I don't know yet how stiff it is because it's not finished yet and it's my first fully. However, it seems that this carbon frame is hardly lighter than a aluminium frame but it's a lot stiffer. Craig has the same frame in the same size and has written a nice review in this forum about is.

  9. #9
    ballbuster
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    I actually kept an old crappy cheapo 30.9 seatpost around just for clamping the bike to the workstand. The 30.9 post I ride with has water bottle bosses and a bottle cage on it.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, I clamp my bikes with dropper posts on the stanchion part of the post. Never really a good idea to put a squeezing force on a carbon tube IMO.

  11. #11
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    That would be a very good idea!

    But then I would need to disconnect my droppper all the time... :-(

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the tips!

    Is the stanchion part the black or the brown part on my seatpost? (not native English...)

  13. #13
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    Ran into a problem today:

    I was routing all the cables and came to the conclusion that the Hope Braided Brake Lines are too tick to route them inside the frame.

    So I routed the brake line outside the frame and the rear-shifter and dropper-post control cable inside the frame. Not quite the way it should be but for now we'll see how it works.

  14. #14
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    The stanchion is the gold part of the post. Did you take the fittings off the end of the brake line before you threaded it through?

  15. #15
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    Ah, thanks.

    And yes, it was the bare cable. A braided hose is a lot thicker than a regular one.

  16. #16
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    Hi What's the headtube length with the heaset installed inclusive of the headset?
    Also what height are you I'm thinking aboutn this frame but seeing some differing TT lengths not sure if I'd go medium or large I'm 5'10" and generally like a 24" TT
    Thanks
    Mike

  17. #17
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    My large frame headtube measures 5.574" bottom of frame (its an integrated lower cup) to the top of the C40 cap. Vaguely, with a tape measure, center of seatube to center of headtube is smack on 24".

  18. #18
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    Thanks Craig
    Is that horizontal TT length
    Cheers

  19. #19
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    By horizontal you mean??? I just ran a tape from center of the seatpost to the center of the headtube following the same plane as the toptube.

  20. #20
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    It's finished (so far)

    Well, I've finished it and it rides delicious!

    Some Images: (Click for bigger!)



















    Alle cables are temporary, The braided Hope hoses are too thick to fit through the frame. These will be replaced by standard black hoses and so are the shifter cables. Then I will tidy up all hoses.


    The 62cm steerer is a bit short, will replace that by a bigger on and add my barends again.

    The front mech was mounted lower at first but then it touched the frame in the low-gear. Had to move it up a bit.

    The old X7 shifters aren't as smooth as they used to be. Think of replacing them with the new 2014 X9 shifters.

    Happy!!!

    Complete speclist:
    • FRAME Titus Carbon Rockstar Large
    • SHOCK RockShox Monarch RT3
    • FORK RockShox SID RL 29, wit, tapered alloy steerer, LO and reb adj. standard drop-outs, 100mm , Poploc
    • HAEDSET Cane Creek IS52 en IS42
    • STEMUno
    • HANDLEBAR Uno Riser 62cm Will be a 68 or 72cm one
    • GRIPS Specialized Body Geometry Contour Locking Grips
    • BAR ENDS P2 Overendz
    • FRONT BRAKE Hope Tech EVO M4 Braided with 180mm Elvedes floating rotor, Hope HBMF adapter
    • REAR BRAKE Hope Tech EVO X2 Braided with 160mm Elvedes floating rotor, adapter IS naar PM
    • BRAKE LEVERS HOPE Tech EVO with SRAM adapters
    • FRONT MECH SRAM X7, 10-speed, Direct mount, high clamp
    • REAR MECH SRAM X9, 10-speed, mid cage
    • SHIFTERS SRAM X7, 2x10-speed
    • CABLES JagWire Sterling Silver
    • CASSETTE SRAM PG-1070, 10-speed, 11-36t
    • CHAIN SRAM PC-1091
    • CRANK SRAM X9 GXP 36-22
    • BOTTOM BRACKET SRAM GXP
    • PEDALS Shimano XTR PD-M980
    • RIMS Stans Notubes ZTR Wave EX 29er
    • FRONT HUB Novatec 811SB, 9mm DT Swiss axle
    • REAR HUB Novatec 882SB, 10mm axle
    • SPOKES DT Competition spaken in (2.0-1.8-2.0, double butted) and DT Revolution (2.0-1.5-2.0)
    • TIRES Nobby Nic Evolution Snakeskin 29er
    • SADDLE Ritchey Comp Biomax V2
    • DROPPER KS Lev 27.2mm with shim to 30.9
    • CLAMP Titus

  21. #21
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    Did some changes:
    Replaced the red discs with real Hope ones (and 183 in the front instead of 180)
    Removed the rim-stickers
    Mounted a Black Ritchey Steerer
    Mounted XX shifters instead of the X7
    Replaced all braided hoses with standard ones
    Placed my old Specialized Saddle back.
    Stuck a headbadge on it



    Last edited by doezel; 08-09-2013 at 01:55 AM.

  22. #22
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    Looks good doezel. Much cleaner all around. I'm looking forward to putting mines together soon. Will post some pics when done.

  23. #23
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    Do you have a complete weight

  24. #24
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    Luis: You'll love it!

    Cloudbuster: Not yet, I've ordered a scale so I'll know soon enough what the weight is.

  25. #25
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    Went to the Spanish Pyrenees to do some biking. Now I know what the M in MTB stands for :-)





    It was great!!!!

    As for the front mech:
    I first placed a SRAM X7 DM mech but found out that I had to place it in the highest position to make sure it doesn't touch the rear suspension pivot. And because I run a 36/22 chainring in the front this would mean that the mech was placed much too high!

    I've received the advice to place an XT mech and this solved my problem instantly!

    So my advise when building a carbon Rockstar: Don't use a SRAM front mech if you're running small chainrings.



    One thing that I didn't solve is this:
    When the frame flexes under heavy load, I constantly hear a "clicking" noise. Yesterday I found out that it's the metal protector that isn't evenly attached to the frame. When I push the protector to close the gaps, I hear the same noise.

    What would be wise to do:
    1) remove the protector (how?) and glue it back properly)
    2) inject some kind of glue to stop the clicking?

    any advise on this would be great! (I'll also check Titus and On-One for this)

    here you can see the gaps:


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