Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 54
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215

    Building a carbon Rockstar

    Hi,

    I've ordered a Large Carbon Rockstar from On-One UK.


    build spec (for now)
    carbon rockstar Large with stock monarch rt3 damper

    Cane Creek 42&52mm headset

    white RockShox Sid RL 100mm tapered with poploc

    ZTR Flow ex rims with Novatec ds811/812 hubs

    KS lev dropper seatpost

    Hope Tech EVO M4 with 180mm disc front
    Hope Tech EVO X2 with 160mm disc rear

    X9 derailleurs
    X7 shifters

    X9 GXP crank. 2-speed

    White Uno steerer and stem, white spacers

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Looks sweet. You are going to love the Hope brakes. I always had a dropper post on my 26" bikes but I have found that I dont need it on the 29. The feeling of sitting in the bike on the 29 vs. being on top of the bike on the 26" gives me room to move around and get off the back of the bike for the steep techy stuff. Just my .02.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Hi Craig,

    thanks!

    as for the dropper: it's coming off my 2012 Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail XL 29er. And I really loved it on that bike. But I'll try with a fixed seatpost first on the Rockstar to see if I like it. Don't like the idea of needing to run an extra cable to the rear because that would't fit inside the frame.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Mounted some parts:

    Hope M4 with the old adapter, will be Hope as well:

    Hope Tech Evo:

  5. #5
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702
    Nice! I love Hope brakes too. I've been running the same set of Mono Minis on my singlespeed since 2004. I probably have like 3k miles on them, including 3 24Hour races. I just rebuilt one of them last year when it started to seep fluid out of a piston seal. Refurb both ends for like $30 in parts including the levers.

    If they made them Dual Control like Shimano did, I would have Hopes on all my bikes.

    So yeah, you're getting me all fired up to build my Rockstar (V1, aluminum) tonight. I figured I can rob one of my other frames of it's top Zero Stack headset. I got the 1.5 bottom today. The CC 110 headset in silver won't be in until late next week, and I wanna get on the trail ASAFP with this thing.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Sure hope you are clamping that frame in the stand VERY LIGHTLY!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: I Like Dirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    306
    Hi
    How stiff are these in the rear?
    I have a voodoo Canzo that is way too flexy for my liking and was thinking this may be a reasonable upgrade
    Also FSR suspension right?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Craig, jup! it just holds the frame there.... Normally I would use the seatpost to hold the bike but that's not a nice solution with a dropper.

    I Like Dirt: I don't know yet how stiff it is because it's not finished yet and it's my first fully. However, it seems that this carbon frame is hardly lighter than a aluminium frame but it's a lot stiffer. Craig has the same frame in the same size and has written a nice review in this forum about is.

  9. #9
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702
    I actually kept an old crappy cheapo 30.9 seatpost around just for clamping the bike to the workstand. The 30.9 post I ride with has water bottle bosses and a bottle cage on it.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Yeah, I clamp my bikes with dropper posts on the stanchion part of the post. Never really a good idea to put a squeezing force on a carbon tube IMO.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    That would be a very good idea!

    But then I would need to disconnect my droppper all the time... :-(

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Thanks for the tips!

    Is the stanchion part the black or the brown part on my seatpost? (not native English...)

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Ran into a problem today:

    I was routing all the cables and came to the conclusion that the Hope Braided Brake Lines are too tick to route them inside the frame.

    So I routed the brake line outside the frame and the rear-shifter and dropper-post control cable inside the frame. Not quite the way it should be but for now we'll see how it works.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    The stanchion is the gold part of the post. Did you take the fittings off the end of the brake line before you threaded it through?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Ah, thanks.

    And yes, it was the bare cable. A braided hose is a lot thicker than a regular one.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: I Like Dirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    306
    Hi What's the headtube length with the heaset installed inclusive of the headset?
    Also what height are you I'm thinking aboutn this frame but seeing some differing TT lengths not sure if I'd go medium or large I'm 5'10" and generally like a 24" TT
    Thanks
    Mike

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    My large frame headtube measures 5.574" bottom of frame (its an integrated lower cup) to the top of the C40 cap. Vaguely, with a tape measure, center of seatube to center of headtube is smack on 24".

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: I Like Dirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    306
    Thanks Craig
    Is that horizontal TT length
    Cheers

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    By horizontal you mean??? I just ran a tape from center of the seatpost to the center of the headtube following the same plane as the toptube.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215

    It's finished (so far)

    Well, I've finished it and it rides delicious!

    Some Images: (Click for bigger!)



















    Alle cables are temporary, The braided Hope hoses are too thick to fit through the frame. These will be replaced by standard black hoses and so are the shifter cables. Then I will tidy up all hoses.


    The 62cm steerer is a bit short, will replace that by a bigger on and add my barends again.

    The front mech was mounted lower at first but then it touched the frame in the low-gear. Had to move it up a bit.

    The old X7 shifters aren't as smooth as they used to be. Think of replacing them with the new 2014 X9 shifters.

    Happy!!!

    Complete speclist:
    • FRAME Titus Carbon Rockstar Large
    • SHOCK RockShox Monarch RT3
    • FORK RockShox SID RL 29, wit, tapered alloy steerer, LO and reb adj. standard drop-outs, 100mm , Poploc
    • HAEDSET Cane Creek IS52 en IS42
    • STEMUno
    • HANDLEBAR Uno Riser 62cm Will be a 68 or 72cm one
    • GRIPS Specialized Body Geometry Contour Locking Grips
    • BAR ENDS P2 Overendz
    • FRONT BRAKE Hope Tech EVO M4 Braided with 180mm Elvedes floating rotor, Hope HBMF adapter
    • REAR BRAKE Hope Tech EVO X2 Braided with 160mm Elvedes floating rotor, adapter IS naar PM
    • BRAKE LEVERS HOPE Tech EVO with SRAM adapters
    • FRONT MECH SRAM X7, 10-speed, Direct mount, high clamp
    • REAR MECH SRAM X9, 10-speed, mid cage
    • SHIFTERS SRAM X7, 2x10-speed
    • CABLES JagWire Sterling Silver
    • CASSETTE SRAM PG-1070, 10-speed, 11-36t
    • CHAIN SRAM PC-1091
    • CRANK SRAM X9 GXP 36-22
    • BOTTOM BRACKET SRAM GXP
    • PEDALS Shimano XTR PD-M980
    • RIMS Stans Notubes ZTR Wave EX 29er
    • FRONT HUB Novatec 811SB, 9mm DT Swiss axle
    • REAR HUB Novatec 882SB, 10mm axle
    • SPOKES DT Competition spaken in (2.0-1.8-2.0, double butted) and DT Revolution (2.0-1.5-2.0)
    • TIRES Nobby Nic Evolution Snakeskin 29er
    • SADDLE Ritchey Comp Biomax V2
    • DROPPER KS Lev 27.2mm with shim to 30.9
    • CLAMP Titus

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Did some changes:
    Replaced the red discs with real Hope ones (and 183 in the front instead of 180)
    Removed the rim-stickers
    Mounted a Black Ritchey Steerer
    Mounted XX shifters instead of the X7
    Replaced all braided hoses with standard ones
    Placed my old Specialized Saddle back.
    Stuck a headbadge on it



    Last edited by doezel; 08-09-2013 at 12:55 AM.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    290
    Looks good doezel. Much cleaner all around. I'm looking forward to putting mines together soon. Will post some pics when done.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    167
    Do you have a complete weight

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Luis: You'll love it!

    Cloudbuster: Not yet, I've ordered a scale so I'll know soon enough what the weight is.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Went to the Spanish Pyrenees to do some biking. Now I know what the M in MTB stands for :-)





    It was great!!!!

    As for the front mech:
    I first placed a SRAM X7 DM mech but found out that I had to place it in the highest position to make sure it doesn't touch the rear suspension pivot. And because I run a 36/22 chainring in the front this would mean that the mech was placed much too high!

    I've received the advice to place an XT mech and this solved my problem instantly!

    So my advise when building a carbon Rockstar: Don't use a SRAM front mech if you're running small chainrings.



    One thing that I didn't solve is this:
    When the frame flexes under heavy load, I constantly hear a "clicking" noise. Yesterday I found out that it's the metal protector that isn't evenly attached to the frame. When I push the protector to close the gaps, I hear the same noise.

    What would be wise to do:
    1) remove the protector (how?) and glue it back properly)
    2) inject some kind of glue to stop the clicking?

    any advise on this would be great! (I'll also check Titus and On-One for this)

    here you can see the gaps:


  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by cloudbuster View Post
    Do you have a complete weight
    I weighed my Rockstar yesterday:
    it's 13kg (28.7 lbs)

    heavy parts:
    the flow EX rims with the Nobby Nics
    and the KS LEV dropper post

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Not bad considering your build, X9 cranks are a bit heavy. I would wrap the underside of the drive side chainstay, I only protected the top of mine and the underside took a good beating before I noticed it.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Hi Craig,

    I already protected mine. Some black protector on the top and some clear protector at the bottom. You can see it here at the bottom left: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/9...9dd5cdd6_k.jpg

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Yep...my bad, I see it now. I was looking at the close ups in post#20.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Craig, do you also have the gaps and a "clicking sound" from the protector plate when the frame flexes? (see previous page)

    You can hear it here: Protector plate loose - YouTube

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    That would be annoying. Mine is dead quiet. I would PM Brant and see what you could use to quiet that.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    It's very annoying!
    PyreneeŽn - YouTube
    I've PM'ed Brant and hope to get this fixed soon!

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    290
    doezel, did you get that creaking taken care of?

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Luis:

    Yes, the plate is rock solid now! (I took it off completely and remounted it)

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    290
    How did you go about it? I have a little separation in my plate as well. No noise that I can tell just yet, but would be good to know. Just in case.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by Luis M. View Post
    How did you go about it? I have a little separation in my plate as well. No noise that I can tell just yet, but would be good to know. Just in case.
    Hello Luis,

    sorry for the delayed answer. I first had to check some other things on my bike.

    To close the gaps I was given 2 advices from titus:
    first you can try to wrap the frame and the plate with electrical tape and heat it a little with a hairdryer to reactivate the 3m tape..

    if that doesn't help you can inject some silicone in the gaps to close them.

    I tried to remove the plate completely and refit it... This has wrinkled the plate a little but at least it's now silent.

    but my bike still wasn't completely silent and I found some other creaking parts as well:

    my cane creek headset also made some noise, replaced it by the suggested orbit c-40. Much better!

    the 27.2mm dropper post was mounted within a shim. This also made a little noise. Replaced it by a normal seatpost

    And the last thing i found was that the gxp bottom bracket was also clicking when pedaling hard. I took it out and placed a little teflon tape on the threads.

    Now my bike is completely silent, exactly as I wished it would be...

    only thing now is to find a replacement rear shock so I can keep biking when my current rt3 is sent back because the lockout does nothing...

    we'll get there! :-)

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    290
    Thanks for the reply doezel. Very interesting. We seem to be suffering the same ailments...lol. My Cane Creek headset seems to have some minor play as well. I feel a slight click from within the HT. Need to have that checked out, as this was put together by a shop. If it can be ironed out I'll keep it. Otherwise I'll be forced to do the same as you. Also, had to tighten some of the pivots cause they were clicking as well. Other than that, the bike has been solid and tons of fun! I have taken it on some good trails and it has performed very well. No real problems with the lockout. The bike climbs extremely well.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Installed a new shock yesterday!

    the story:

    The shock that came with my frame didn't seem to work. As I am new to rear-shocks I couldn't tell what exactly was wrong with it except that the blue lever didn't seem to do anything. I now can confirm that it seems that the shock was stuck in the "locked" position.

    Craig, that was also the reason that I didn't had full travel.

    Because I had to send the shock back to the United Kingdom and because I didn't want to wait that long to got it repaired I ordered a new shock first from Bike-Components.de.

    The shock I ordered was a 2014 Low-tune 200x51mm Monarch RT3.
    Unfortunately the shock that was delivered was a 2014 MID-tune 200x51 RT3.

    I've contacted Bike-Components and heard that it would take at least 20 weeks to get it replaced because they didn't had any other low-tuned shocks in stock.

    So I've mailed with tftunedshox.com to find out what my options are.
    The reply I got from them was (basically) that the mid-tuned shock I was holing in my hand had enough adjustment range to be perfectly suitable for me and my bike.

    So I stuck it on and started riding.

    What a difference!

    I already was quite happy with my bike when I had a little rear-suspension but now it feels a lot more smooth at the back!!! I LOVE IT!!!!

    I've sent the old shock to the UK to have it fixed. When it comes back I'll stick that on in my frame to see what the difference is between a L and a M tuned shock.

    Keep you posted!

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    forgot to mention that the new 2014 RT3 is a high volume shock (which seems to be the default for 2014)

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Pics?

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Craig, it's still the same bike with almost the same shock. Only noticeable difference is a slightly larger air can and a black bevel around the blue lever.

    But if you really want a pic (or even pics) of that I'll be happy to make some as soon as the sun is up again. :-)

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Okay, Some pics of the new shock:

    :-)





    and oh, got some new stickers on my rims because I removed the flashy red and white ones:


  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Interesting about the HV can, would make the shock more progressive for sure. Air spring volume dictates spring curve, if they arent offering the standard can I wonder if they are using shims to get the deired spring curve?

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Hi Craig,

    don't know what they did to the shock, but it's working. Since I don't know how the original shock was supposed to work I can't tell the difference. When I get it back from Planet X I'll mount it again.

    This is what the bike now looks like:


    And I was fiddling with the placement of the brake levers since I only use my index finger for braking. This seems to be the best placement for me now:

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Craig, maybe you have a solution for this:

    I noticed that the rear brake and shifter cable slide through the frame whenever the rear suspension is used. Did you have the same issue and maybe a solution for it?

    Thanks!

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    I have never noticed this. I will have to look at my cable/hose and see if there is any chaffing or wear.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Hi Craig,

    dit you had a look at the cable moving/rubbing issue?

    Look here: Titus Carbon Rockstar shocks in action - YouTube

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    I dont see any chaffing or wear on my frame. I'm sure every frame with internal routing has some movement of the cables, its inevitable.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    215
    Well, the most frames I see with internal routing let the cables come out at a pivot location so that the cables bend when the suspension moves.

    With the rockstar the cables are pushed inside with every suspension movement so this will create a lot more movement, I guess.



  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: craigstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    4,352
    Those are actually cable stops on the Genius, I built a friends up for him. The housing actually doesnt even go inside the frame.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Carbon Rockstar in Action
    By craigstr in forum Titus
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-25-2013, 04:03 PM
  2. Carbon Rockstar
    By craigstr in forum Titus
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-09-2013, 05:26 PM
  3. Carbon Rockstar
    By craigstr in forum Titus
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-05-2012, 02:46 PM
  4. Carbon Rockstar?
    By jdcatnau in forum Titus
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-07-2012, 06:47 PM
  5. Rockstar 29er in carbon.
    By pedalwrench in forum Titus
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-10-2012, 11:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •