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  1. #1
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    Birth of a Guapo!

    Rider/Terrain - 200lb that likes aggressive all mountain riding with small drops (3 footers). Live in Colorado with big climbs/descents, technical singletrack, rock gardens galore and also lots sandy spots, scree and loose over hardpack.

    Goal - To find a 6" travel bike that could still climb and do all day rides. Current ride is a Nomad which I've been riding for about 4 or 5 months. It's a brilliant descender and ok climber. The Guapo has always held some interest and it has always been in the back of my mind. I just couldn't resist anymore when Titus had their big sale. So the winner of the contest stays and the loser goes on ebay!

    Previous Rides - Titus Switchblade, Motolite, Canfield One and Sauce, v.1 Tracer VP, Banshee Rune, Nomad

    Build
    -2010 Medium EG frame
    -Fork: Manitou Nixon 160mm Infinite travel (1 1/8" steerer)
    -Rear Shock - Fox RP23 (push'd for Nomad)/DHX Coil
    -Crankset: XTR M970, 175mm, Enduro bearings
    -Front der: XTR M971
    -Rear der: XTR shadow
    -Chain: XTR
    -Cassette: XTR M970
    -Shifters: XTR
    -Brakes: XTR
    -Wheelset: rear - CK rear hub with 819 rim / front - Hope II with Flow rim
    -Headset/Stem: CCreek XXC conversion/some no name highrise stem
    -Handlebar: WC rizer
    -Seatpost: Gravity Dropper
    -Saddle: Specialized Alias
    -Front tire: Maxxis Advantage 2.4 (big volume, bombproof tire!)
    -Rear tire: Specialized Captain 2.2 (great rear tire for loose over hard)
    -Pedals: Shimano SPD
    I know, I know - the rear brake housing is way to long (I've been meaning to shorten it for a long time now) and the stack height looks all messes up (holy cow, a 4" headtube isn't really that much)

    All the parts transferred over from the Nomad (except the front deraileur which required a different model). The build was straight forward without any problems. I was disappointed that you can't run full cable housing for the shifters. This caused annoying shifting problems on my Motolite until the guides were dremeled out for a full cable run (will probably do this to the EG when I have time). I love, love, love the anno finish. Ahh anno, so much better than paint. The white paint on my Nomad is like the black paint of my 05 Motolite, you touch it or even look at it wrong and the paint scratches!

    The Guapo is so sexy and curvy! Lots of angles, swoops, and curves (whereas the Nomad is big, brawny and squarish).

    The 1st Ride - sweet!
    I took the EG out on my bread and butter ride, Palmer Park, which starts right from my back yard. Palmer is basically a big 700 acre rock garden, with short steep climbs/descents along with some nice singletrack. The first ride was sweet. It climbs good and descends good. I'll know more in the future but I'm impressed. The bike felt comfortable right out of the gate. One of my main worries about the bike was the bottom bracket height. It turned out to be not so bad.Yes, I did have pedal strikes but it wasn't any worse than the Nomad. The interesting thing I noticed is climbing with the Nixon fork on steep climbs. With the Nixon you can adjust travel from a full 160mm down to almost nothing. On the steeps with the Nomad, a good climbing position is felt with the fork really lowered whereas the Guapo felt natural with the fork a little higher in it's travel. So the lower bottom bracket height of the EG is countered by having the fork more up in it's travel. I also felt the Guapo would be more than ok with just a little more fork travel, say 170mm. Definitely looking to ride the EG more!
    Minor nitpicks - First, not having full cable routing which makes shifting just ok. I got a little miss-shifting which required some fidgeting with the rear derailuer to get it to shift right. And second, the middle section of rear d housing bulges out and hits the side of my leg when the suspension is compressed (this piece housing is definitely at its shortest length). No biggie but it is there.
    I'm really looking forward to getting an angleset to slacken the EG out to 67 degrees. Cane Creek is finally coming out with an angleset that has an external bottom cup with a stack height of 13mm (like the XXC conversion headset I'm running). I didn't want to get the flush mount angleset because that would drop the bb to much (bb decrease by running the angleset + loss of stack height from the flush mount).

    I'll post up more when I get more time on the bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Birth of a Guapo!-guapo1.jpg  

    Birth of a Guapo!-guapo2.jpg  

    Birth of a Guapo!-guapo3.jpg  

    Birth of a Guapo!-guapo5.jpg  

    Birth of a Guapo!-guapo6.jpg  


  2. #2
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    You will love the EG

    I think its the best trailbike out there. How does the PUSHed shock work being its valved for a Nomad? You should check with PUSH to see if they would change it for the EG. Nomad has a totally different suspension curve right?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigstr
    I think its the best trailbike out there. How does the PUSHed shock work being its valved for a Nomad? You should check with PUSH to see if they would change it for the EG. Nomad has a totally different suspension curve right?
    The shock works ok. Still playing with pressures. I know it's probably not optimal for the Guapo but it's ok. Here is the funny thing. I originally had the RP23 push'd for a Canfield One. I then threw it on the Nomad when I got it and the shock felt like butter, it was amazing! After awhile I did get it retuned for the Nomad. It still felt good but I have a nagging feeling it felt better with the Canfield tune.

    Not sure about the curves. Maybe this will give me an excuse to go up and visit Push. I'm also planning to run the DHX to see how a coil feels on it.

  4. #4
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    Dhx 5

    I ran a DHX 5 on mine a few times. I had a 450 lb spring and I weigh about 190 geared up. I felt over sprung so the 450 would probably work good for you. Make sure you put the rocker in the other hole when you use a coil as it gives a better spring rate.

  5. #5
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    zip ties

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    I was disappointed that you can't run full cable housing for the shifters. This caused annoying shifting problems on my Motolite until the guides were dremeled out for a full cable run (will probably do this to the EG when I have time).
    Minor nitpicks - First, not having full cable routing which makes shifting just ok. I got a little miss-shifting which required some fidgeting with the rear derailuer to get it to shift right. And second, the middle section of rear d housing bulges out and hits the side of my leg when the suspension is compressed (this piece housing is definitely at its shortest length). No biggie but it is there.
    I'm really looking forward to getting an angleset to slacken the EG out to 67 degrees. Cane Creek is finally coming out with an angleset that has an external bottom cup with a stack height of 13mm (like the XXC conversion headset I'm running). I didn't want to get the flush mount angleset because that would drop the bb to much (bb decrease by running the angleset + loss of stack height from the flush mount).

    I'll post up more when I get more time on the bike!
    Drill'em out, put full housing and use zip tie loops under the TT. Let the cables spit out at the headtube. Bike rails

    hey what saddle is that?
    Last edited by Deerhill; 05-29-2011 at 03:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    Hey, I like that idea. I will probably break out the dremel when I get time. I've never had shifting problems when I've had full housing runs (definitely helped out the Switchblade and Moto after drilling).

    The saddle is a Specialized Alias (or Avatar). I like it because it has long rails. When I started riding clipless I had some knee problems. I eventually got a bike fit from Andy Pruitt up in Boulder and they shoved my seat all the way back. That and some other tweaks got me riding pain free. If I ran a normal post it would definitely be a laid-back post both with the dropper I need a saddle with longer rails.

    Chris

  7. #7
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    Sweet looking bike. How did you like the Banshee Rune compared to the EG?
    Kovi

  8. #8
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    I had a bad experience with my Rune. Ended up getting the wrong shock for it (push'd Monarch) which after awhile lead to failure and frustration. The Monarch would either be plush but bottom-out way to easy or be set up to not bottom and be way firm (tried low/high/high volume with shim canisters). Towards the end I did put a Roco TST coil on it but I was mentally just done with the bike.
    Lesson learned - The Rune is a great bike, but do to it's shock curve it requires a high-end piggyback shock with good bottom out control to work well (Elka, CCDB, MX tune DHX). The bike is a bombproof, climbs well (I never felt pedal feedback in the granny gear), and I actually loved the bushing system.

    Chris

  9. #9
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    Chris, that bike is fantastic and almost the exact build I would use. How much did it weigh in at?

    Any more comparisons with the Nomad?

  10. #10
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    Not sure how much it weighs? Forgot to weigh both frames at the bike shop when I switched out the headset.

    The next couple weeks I should get in alot of time on it. On Thursday I'm heading up to Push to get the shock retuned for the EG (and check out a Monarch Plus which I'll eventually get). To bad the angleset I ordered (external bottom cup) won't be here for a couple weeks.

    Chris

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    To bad the angleset I ordered (external bottom cup) won't be here for a couple weeks.

    Chris
    I ordered up a CC angleset for my buildup too. What degree change are you going with?

    I'm thinking of just doing one degree. I am runnin the 170mm Lyric solo air. I'll try that out for a while and then maybe add another 0.5 for a 66.5 deg angle along with a 650B front wheel it will take the wheelbase out to more of a DH wheelbase of around 45.6 to 45.8" on my 09 Large frame. With the raised front, the HT angle will likely be more around 65.5 to 66 if I use the full 1.5 conversion cups. Perfect for the steep stuff, down, good enough for up too!
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  12. #12
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    Might want to start with the .5 external cup. 1 might slam the BB pretty low (unless that's what you're after). Not 100% sure but the headtube is short, might increase the change.

  13. #13
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    Got the geo numbers from Josh at Cane Creek for a medium Guapo (external bottom cup, 160mm fork)

    Here are your geo changes:
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 0.5deg (slacker) = New head angle:67.49deg, BB height:-1.1mm, wheelbase:+5.5mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1deg (slacker) = New head angle:66.98deg, BB height:-2.1mm, wheelbase:+11mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1.5deg (slacker) = New head angle:66.6deg, BB height:-2.9mm, wheelbase:+15mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 0.5deg (steeper) = New head angle:68.5deg, BB height:+1.1mm, wheelbase:-5.5mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1deg (steeper) = New head angle:69deg, BB height:2.3mm, wheelbase:+10.9mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1.5deg (steeper) = New head angle:69.4deg, BB height:+3.1mm, wheelbase:-15mm

  14. #14
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    Does stack height change on those?

  15. #15
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    additional A-C on the 170mm Lyrik + the extra height from the 650 wheel-- probably slack another ~0.5 deg for the HA

    I needed just a tad less than the 68 deg HA on the EG (which I initially built as according to the Titus site with a zero stack headset + a 565mm A-C fork) ....

    Got it exactly where I wanted now with a slightly taller fork (still 160mm but A-C = 557mm) and with big tall rubbers, Ardent 2.4 up front. HA is now @ ~67.3 to 67.5 deg (depending on which tire is thrown on the rear)

    Deer-- dont think the stack height will change... they play around with the eccentric gold colored bowl thingie in side the cups to get the change in the angles...

  16. #16
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    Here is a question - what headset, fork length are the geometry numbers on the Titus website based on? There is no little line of text at the bottom of the chart that says so. I'm assuming it is an external bottom cup headset and 545 a/c fork (they spec bikes with a FSA Gravity and a Fox 160mm Talas).

    I'm going with a 1 degree. Anything more and the bottom bracket height will get to low and I'll start hating the bike. I've been waiting for a couple months for Cane Creek to come out with the an angleset that wasn't zero stack.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    Got the geo numbers from Josh at Cane Creek for a medium Guapo (external bottom cup, 160mm fork)

    Here are your geo changes:
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 0.5deg (slacker) = New head angle:67.49deg, BB height:-1.1mm, wheelbase:+5.5mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1deg (slacker) = New head angle:66.98deg, BB height:-2.1mm, wheelbase:+11mm
    ZS49/28.6|EC49/40 - 1.5deg (slacker) = New head angle:66.6deg, BB height:-2.9mm, wheelbase:+15mm
    clip steep stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den
    additional A-C on the 170mm Lyrik + the extra height from the 650 wheel-- probably slack another ~0.5 deg for the HA

    I needed just a tad less than the 68 deg HA on the EG (which I initially built as according to the Titus site with a zero stack headset + a 565mm A-C fork) ....

    Got it exactly where I wanted now with a slightly taller fork (still 160mm but A-C = 557mm) and with big tall rubbers, Ardent 2.4 up front. HA is now @ ~67.3 to 67.5 deg (depending on which tire is thrown on the rear)
    good info guys. This will help me make my decision. I'd like my HA at 67deg with 26" tires to start.

    I've read that if you have a SHORT head tube length, the angleset headset will change your HA more than a longer HT length. So your numbers on the Medium will give a greater change than on my Large. 4.0" vs 4.6" HTL. If I consider my fork is longer than a 160mm fork, It sounds like I'd still need to use the -1.5deg setup to get me to 66.6 - 67deg. I can't seem to find the A-C dimension for the 2010 Lyric Solo Air. I think it's 560mm though.
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    Here is a question - what headset, fork length are the geometry numbers on the Titus website based on? There is no little line of text at the bottom of the chart that says so. I'm assuming it is an external bottom cup headset and 545 a/c fork (they spec bikes with a FSA Gravity and a Fox 160mm Talas).
    Good question, last I looked on the PDF was a while ago and now can't seem to find it on there. What I remember was the FSA headset they used has a healthy insertion, 20mm bottom and top. Also those FSA cups are made of steel not aluminum..

    My CC flush reducer top cup (taper steerer) creeks bad, only has @ 8mm insertion, can't wait for these to come out. The half dome/gimbal thingy looks like it will reinforce things quite a bit. The extra insertion offered on the top cup is worth the upgrade.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris9702l
    I'm going with a 1 degree. Anything more and the bottom bracket height will get to low and I'll start hating the bike. I've been waiting for a couple months for Cane Creek to come out with the an angleset that wasn't zero stack.
    Are those numbers you posted for the new 1.5 external bottom cup, or 1 1/8? Just noticed your 1 1/8 fork.

  19. #19
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    Remembered it well enough as I was doing a comparison of forks in looking for a new fork. A-C on the 170mm Lyrik was 555mm

    weight is 2.18kg (4.8lb) for the solo air which i weighed at a shop

    Couple of friends already have the angled headset-- experience is that it takes few rides to let all the parts of the headset set in properly. Minor adjustment and tightening will be common initially. Have fun

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den
    Remembered it well enough as I was doing a comparison of forks in looking for a new fork. A-C on the 170mm Lyrik was 555mm

    weight is 2.18kg (4.8lb) for the solo air which i weighed at a shop

    Couple of friends already have the angled headset-- experience is that it takes few rides to let all the parts of the headset set in properly. Minor adjustment and tightening will be common initially. Have fun
    What size frame were your running?

    thanks again for the info!
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  21. #21
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    The new angleset that I referred to is one for a tapered steerer. I'm also getting a different race that adapts it for use with a 1 1/8th (even though I've been told the race I have now will work).

    If you have any questions about the angleset give Josh over at Cane Creek an email. Super fast response and very helpful He also has a little program that crunches the numbers to let you know how the angleset will effect the bike (that is where I got the numbers posted from).

    Chris

  22. #22
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    Medium

    Quote Originally Posted by berny2435
    What size frame were your running?

    thanks again for the info!
    Medium...can take a l@@k here

  23. #23
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    Just an FYI for those onlookers to this thread;

    jensonusa.com jumped the gun a little. They basically prematurely uploaded the info to sell the cane creek Angleset headset meant for a straight 1.5" HT and ""tappered Steerer"" . After a phone call to Cane Creek, they don't even have all the parts in yet for these so they can't ship to their customers. In fact, it's not even offered for sale on the Cane Creek Website. Jensonusa made a booboo and didn't mention at all that this would be a pre-order. But in hindsight, I may have not ordered this angleset headset if I didn't find it on Jenson back in late March. I still want it for sure.

    Cane creek will have their parts in late next week for the tappered steerer anglesets. Hopefully mine will be in hand the following week so I can get this El Guapo project of mine rollin!
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  24. #24
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    ya sweet ride! My friend has an '09 guapo and its a pretty good all around bike. I have the ftm and its sweet as well. And dito to the ano finish! I have the orange ano on mine but am very dissapointed in how well it was sealed. It now looks like a very light peach and its only been a year. Not cool to have a girly color orange
    Mountain biking never gets easier... You just get faster

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