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  1. #1
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    Tubeless in texas

    So I'm getting into the sport and I'm curious how many in texas go tubeless due to goatheads and other thorns that are in many parts of the state. I have a pos bike now and am upgrading and getting into this thing soon.

  2. #2
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    Almost mandatory out here in El Paso!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kinsler View Post
    Almost mandatory out here in El Paso!
    I'm from there....19 years. You have great riding areas.

  4. #4
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    Only way to go. I waited two years and probably spent 200 bucks on tubes. Spent 80 on stans tubeless kit and havent had a problem.
    I ride because exercising sucks, it's a lot of fun, and it makes beer taste oh so much better.

  5. #5
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    Not only will it reduce flats to almost zero. Your bike will climb better and handle better. Its the only way to go.

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  6. #6
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    I'm here in SA and ride the road and the trails with my MTB's. All tubeless...
    Let's make like a Bike and get the Huck outta here...

  7. #7
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    UST specific set up here and with Orange Seal.

    Works great. But if you are heavy like me (230) be sure and keep at lesat 32 psi or you will burp some air on hard impacts. I had let mine get to under 20 and burped some on yesterday's ride..heard a loud phssss too and when I arrived back at the car park I noted orange sealant around circumference of tire/rim interface.

    Tubeless is awesome. To think I used to say I'd never go disc brakes, full suspension or tubeless. haha. All are essential now. Well not really, but all sure do make the ride so much easier.

  8. #8
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    finally went tubeless the other day with Stans. I borrowed my neighbor's air compressor. if you dont have one, Im not sure how most people do it....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sooner518 View Post
    finally went tubeless the other day with Stans. I borrowed my neighbor's air compressor. if you dont have one, Im not sure how most people do it....
    Depends on the tire and other factors.

    My experience:
    • Kenda BG and Nevs and Stans I use compressor or CO2 cartridges and either work, but sealing takes days.
    • Maxxis Advantage and Stans - same as above, but sealing is quick
    • Maxxis Advantage and Orange Seal a floor pump works, seals quicker than Stans
    • Specialized Purgatory TubeBliss and Orange Seal a floor pump works - easiest inflation and sealing ever


    Personally, I find the Orange Seal to be much less messy and less clumpy than Stans. OS clumps at the site of a puncture, but Stans seems to clump up randomly. Plus Orange Seal is a Texas company, right here in the burbs of Austin and having met most of them on the trail I am happy to support their product.

  10. #10
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    I have been wondering about tubeless. My local shop charges 30.00 a wheel to go tubeless. I have Kenda Nevegal that came with my Giant reign and wondering if these will work. Since I currently live in Killeen should I change out my tires?

  11. #11
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    Like hunrugger says sealing (read--no leaks) could take days. my first attemptes with tubeless were with Nevs and the sidewalls leech like a mofo.


    Quote Originally Posted by chef7734 View Post
    I have been wondering about tubeless. My local shop charges 30.00 a wheel to go tubeless. I have Kenda Nevegal that came with my Giant reign and wondering if these will work. Since I currently live in Killeen should I change out my tires?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ArmySlowRdr View Post
    Like hunrugger says sealing (read--no leaks) could take days. my first attemptes with tubeless were with Nevs and the sidewalls leech like a mofo.
    This, mine didn't seal for a week or so, but once they did no issues at all.

  13. #13
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    I have stans with ardents i put the kit on inflated them rode 20mins after.

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    If tubeless is so reliable, why do I keep giving tubes to guys with tubeless flats on the trails?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_m_shooter View Post
    If tubeless is so reliable, why do I keep giving tubes to guys with tubeless flats on the trails?
    Nothing is perfect. It's not too smart to ride without a back up tube.
    I ride because exercising sucks, it's a lot of fun, and it makes beer taste oh so much better.

  16. #16
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    i started with a 2.35 Nevegal (non-UST version)/2.1 WTB Wierwolf (UST version) and Stans Flow wheelset with Stans sealant. The Nevegal was pumped up to around 40 psi. 3-4 hours later, it was prolly down to around 25, so I pumped it back up. The next morning, it was a little lower than 40, but not much. I pumped it back up and rode it on the road for a few miles. Hasnt leaked since really.

    The Wierwolf hasnt leaked at all.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_m_shooter View Post
    If tubeless is so reliable, why do I keep giving tubes to guys with tubeless flats on the trails?
    I was very skeptical until my riding buddy went tubeless and he stopped flatting while I kept having to change toobs.

    (Knocks on wood) - I've had 3 flats in almost 3 years since going tubeless and I have given about a half a dozen or more tubes to tubed guys. And in the 3 years prior to that I bet I had more than 15 flats.

    Flat 1 - massive sidewall tear - I was able to re-inflate multiple times to limp back.
    Flat 2 - off camber landing with a complete air loss burp (and crash) - re-inflated and completed the race.
    Flat 3 - repeat of #2 and never got it seated again due to tiny rim dent (discovered this at home).

    All of these occurred with the Maxxis Advantage - not riding those things again.

  18. #18
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    I just installed a 2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'r Advantage tubeless-ready tire via ghetto tubeless & it sealed up with no issues. I prefer tires with reinforced sidewalls but this time wanted to save a few bucks for some other upgrades. First ride on it tomorrow. Other tires I've ridden are Hans Dampf, the Ardent EXO, & a Geax which I can't remember the model. All sealed up easy with the 20" tube for liner. I use Stan's (a guy at the bike shop told me he thought the Orange was really messy). Stan's has worked for me even when I've gone too long without putting some fresh sealant in.

  19. #19
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    It's great following this conversation for me, as I'm getting into this because basketball has been taken away from me. Being new to mountain biking, I have taken my current pos bike out and gotten goatheads and flats. I am looking at getting a cannondale 29'er 5 at my lbs and have them start me off tubeless. Is there a trek, felt or Scott or trek in the $750 range I should also look at? I'm in collin county if anyone has trail suggestions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    It's great following this conversation for me, as I'm getting into this because basketball has been taken away from me. Being new to mountain biking, I have taken my current pos bike out and gotten goatheads and flats. I am looking at getting a cannondale 29'er 5 at my lbs and have them start me off tubeless. Is there a trek, felt or Scott or trek in the $750 range I should also look at? I'm in collin county if anyone has trail suggestions.
    I would buy a used bike for $750.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    I would buy a used bike for $750.

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    To elaborate....you would buy a bike with better components and used is the way to do that for the same budget? As a novice, when I see an ad that lists components....it doesn't mean squat to me. My thought about the cannondale is that it is suppose to be a very good frame for the $.

  22. #22
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    What area in Texas are you in? Craigslist always has deals on bikes.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    To elaborate....you would buy a bike with better components and used is the way to do that for the same budget? As a novice, when I see an ad that lists components....it doesn't mean squat to me. My thought about the cannondale is that it is suppose to be a very good frame for the $.
    $750 will get you an ok hard tail. I dont know what trails you wanna ride so i cant tell ya what to get. A ok hardtail with crap fork maybe ok for you, it also could not be.

    I bought a used bike off craigslist. It was a hardtail, in 2 months i got a full suspension.

    sent from my galaxy tab 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    $750 will get you an ok hard tail. I dont know what trails you wanna ride so i cant tell ya what to get. A ok hardtail with crap fork maybe ok for you, it also could not be.

    I bought a used bike off craigslist. It was a hardtail, in 2 months i got a full suspension.

    sent from my galaxy tab 2
    Yeah...I'm not sure either. I am in north dfw. I do know that I'm OCD when I dig something and I've been spinning for 5 months due to a knee issue. I'm a Clyde....so the fork does give me pause.

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    when the mechanic at my lbs asked me years ago if i wanted to go tubeless on a new wheel i asked what he thought. his answer was that i should go tubeless "unless you like flattin.'" the only other reason might be if you're on the heavier side.

  27. #27
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    Thanks much for the suggestions. I guess you like the components?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Thanks much for the suggestions. I guess you like the components?
    The fisher is nice, it has an air fork, so you can adjust instead of buying new springs. And the Sram X-7 and X-9 is good stuff. I have that on my 07 Kona it is still kicking.

  29. #29
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    I've never run tubeless and am in no hurry to. I use Geax Aka tires and they are awesome... a little heavy (~700 grams) but I can run them down to 25psi with tubes and not worry about flats. I'm 175lbs.

    Friday my buddy and I were pre-riding the Comfort race course and he got a flat that was too big and wouldn't seal (he runs tubeless) and when we went to put a tube in to help him limp back to the truck, the tubeless valve stem was complete stuck. Couldn't get it out. So he had to hike back down to a fire road while I rode back to the truck to grab some pliers. An hour after the flat we finally got the valve stem out and were able to get him back to the truck. That experience has made me shy away from tubeless even more.

    Funny end to the story though... his tire was toast and we didn't bring a spare with us. So we had to drive back to Boerne and find a Wal-Mart at like 8pm. He bought the only 29er tire there, a Bell 29in mountain bike tire for $29 that weighed at least 2x the Specialized tire we took off. We did the marathon race yesterday at Comfort and he said he had better grip than he's ever had before from the rear end. But he did say he could really start to feel the extra weight on the back of the bike towards the end of the race.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  30. #30
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    I keep wanting to, wanting to, wanting to go tubeless. Almost everyone that I talk to says I just HAVE to go tubeless, it is just that much better. I still haven't brought myself to do it. The one primary dissenter is a woman that I used to ride with some and who may be one of the best riders in the area. I asked her about it awhile back, and she said that she had been tubeless for awhile, but had gone back to tubes. Just simpler...much less hassle. I'm about to have a bike built up and am again thinking about it, but still just can't pull that tubeless trigger.

  31. #31
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    With the new Specialized Air Tool MTB, you don't need an air compressor. This thing kicks ass.
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    Blog this...!

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    Listening to a woman.......*sigh*

    Btw i lost a pound goin tubeless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    Listening to a woman.......*sigh*

    Btw i lost a pound goin tubeless.

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    Umm yeah. That particular woman talking about mountain biking...I listen to.

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    tubeless is the only way, i've even done it to my road bike. i do alot of am/dh stuff and have zero issues

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    I highly recommend it. I have used both the split tube method and the gorilla tape method. I like the gorilla tape method a little more. I have had zero hassle with my setup. I am riding a rigid 29er so it's a little bit harder on my system and am able to run 25psi in the back and 28 up front.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

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    Not going tubeless is silly, here's why:

    Tubeless - less puncture flats
    Tubeless - less air pressure
    Tubeless - can be fixed with a tube

    Tubes - puncture flats are a constant worry
    Tubes - higher air pressure to combat pinch flats means a rougher ride and less traction
    Tubes - Can be fixed with a tube

    If you slash your sidewall, tubes or tubeless, you're gonna need a fat patch and a tube.
    If you crank down your presta screw, tube or tubeless, with the force of 10,000 gorillas, you're gonna need pliers.

    The fixes for a fubar tube or tubeless are the same, the benefits are not.

    I run a tubeless setup with non-tubeless tires and non-tubeless rims until the tread wears off. No flats, no problems. I didn't like the gorilla tape method and I ended up buying one roll of that Stans neon-green rim tape. It lasts forever and was super cheap. Once every 6 months I refresh the orange seal by pulling out the valve stem and squeezing some orange goo in.

    FYI - I'm 170lbs and I run 21lb in the front and 23 in the rear. My home trails are Jedi in the BCGB.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul.C View Post
    I highly recommend it. I have used both the split tube method and the gorilla tape method. I like the gorilla tape method a little more. I have had zero hassle with my setup. I am riding a rigid 29er so it's a little bit harder on my system and am able to run 25psi in the back and 28 up front.
    Thanks...are you in Colin county? Erwin park appears to be the best place ...although there are tons of bicycle paths around.

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    I would recommend Northshore if you want a mix of fast xc single track and some extremely fun technical bits. You can easily bypass most of the major tech sections by deleting a whole loop out of your ride. Also if you want a quick 30 minute ride there are endless options at Northshore since there are a number of trail heads.

    I do like Erwin park but it is about a 15 minute longer drive for me from Farmers branch (Dallas co.).

    I vote for trying all the DORBA trails and decide for your self.
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    Quote Originally Posted by baconismidog View Post
    If you slash your sidewall, tubes or tubeless, you're gonna need a fat patch and a tube.
    If you crank down your presta screw, tube or tubeless, with the force of 10,000 gorillas, you're gonna need pliers.

    The fixes for a fubar tube or tubeless are the same, the benefits are not.

    Quoted for the truth. Sidewall tears are downsides of running rubber tires. No matter what you stick inside the tire a sidewall tear will be very difficult to fix.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBRsteve View Post
    I've never run tubeless and am in no hurry to. I use Geax Aka tires and they are awesome... a little heavy (~700 grams) but I can run them down to 25psi with tubes and not worry about flats. I'm 175lbs.

    Friday my buddy and I were pre-riding the Comfort race course and he got a flat that was too big and wouldn't seal (he runs tubeless) and when we went to put a tube in to help him limp back to the truck, the tubeless valve stem was complete stuck. Couldn't get it out. So he had to hike back down to a fire road while I rode back to the truck to grab some pliers. An hour after the flat we finally got the valve stem out and were able to get him back to the truck. That experience has made me shy away from tubeless even more.

    Funny end to the story though... his tire was toast and we didn't bring a spare with us. So we had to drive back to Boerne and find a Wal-Mart at like 8pm. He bought the only 29er tire there, a Bell 29in mountain bike tire for $29 that weighed at least 2x the Specialized tire we took off. We did the marathon race yesterday at Comfort and he said he had better grip than he's ever had before from the rear end. But he did say he could really start to feel the extra weight on the back of the bike towards the end of the race.
    I'm sorry bud, but everything you describe there is some form of user error/ bad preparation... not the fault of the equipment at all...

    Full Disclosure: I have a set of stans 355's with hutchison pythons that I've put stans in 3 times and been running without issue for 2 years, the only time they drop air is when the temperature changes drastically... My new bike is rolling on Hans Dampfs on Stans FLOW EX's seated with a floorpump. all the goofy ass gorilla tape, bastardized cut up tube stuff is for the birds, if you save 20 bucks on the setup and waste 3 hours getting it to work, you've just valued your time at $7.33/ hour which is less than minimum wage. (my buddy trying to follow a forum tubeless setup instead of going with the kit from the get go)

    buy the right pieces and make the upgrade, you'll never go back. And probably never need to change a flat again either...

  41. #41
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    Well OK, you guys helped push me over the edge...not sure if I am going to the dark side or the bright side! The old bike, the new frame and all of the other stuff is at the shop to be built up in the next week and a half or so. I figured I would have them set up this bike with tubeless and see how I like it. If I am happy enough with it, I'll do the same for my Stumpy 29'er, if not, I'll just go back to tubes. Here goes!

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Thanks...are you in Colin county? Erwin park appears to be the best place ...although there are tons of bicycle paths around.
    I'm in Colin county but haven't ridden Erwin. I hear it's a really nice trail...especially for beginners. I personally ride RCP (Rowlett) out in Garland and Boulder south of Dallas. Anyhow, I'm a fellow Clyde (275lbs) and use slime tubes which work great for goat heads. Thorns are't really an issue on trails I've ridden aound Dallas.

    Anyhow, check Dallas Off Road Bike Association Dallas Off Road Bicycle Association
    Last edited by 50calray; 01-30-2013 at 11:30 AM.

  43. #43
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    I dont understand why it took so long to decide. Go ride the trails ask everyone thats riding what they are running. Guarantee the hardcore guys are all running tubeless.

    This bs i hear of them being crap and leaking is just bad prep.


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    Quote Originally Posted by mjduct View Post
    I'm sorry bud, but everything you describe there is some form of user error/ bad preparation... not the fault of the equipment at all...
    The only thing that could be construed as 'user error' as you put it would be the valve stem screw... which was hand tightened. We have no idea how it got so tight, but it did and since I didn't have my Leatherman on hand, we were screwed (pun intended).

    If you're referring to the lack of grip as user error, then that's probably just a result of lack of info. He uses some Specialized S-Works tires and they are super light... and have minimal grip as a by product of that lightness. The POS Bell tire he put on has monster nobs and given the terrain at Comfort worked great despite the weight.

    End all of this though: to each his own! I consider myself pretty hardcore as I rode over 3,800 miles last year and have done 3 races in the past 6 weeks. I have races 3 over the next 4 weekends too.

    <Knock on wood> I only had one flat on the MTB last year and it was due to a thorn and yes, I agree that tubeless might have helped there. But tubes work for me and as long as I'm happy with my finishing positions and tire performance then there is no need for me to change.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  45. #45
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    I'm not opposed to tubeless, I have a couple tubeless wheel sets but I'm just used to tubes and really don't run into situations enough that would warrant changing them out.
    2007 FS KHS XC104
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by CBRsteve View Post
    The only thing that could be construed as 'user error' as you put it would be the valve stem screw... which was hand tightened. We have no idea how it got so tight, but it did and since I didn't have my Leatherman on hand, we were screwed (pun intended).

    If you're referring to the lack of grip as user error, then that's probably just a result of lack of info. He uses some Specialized S-Works tires and they are super light... and have minimal grip as a by product of that lightness. The POS Bell tire he put on has monster nobs and given the terrain at Comfort worked great despite the weight.

    End all of this though: to each his own! I consider myself pretty hardcore as I rode over 3,800 miles last year and have done 3 races in the past 6 weeks. I have races 3 over the next 4 weekends too.

    <Knock on wood> I only had one flat on the MTB last year and it was due to a thorn and yes, I agree that tubeless might have helped there. But tubes work for me and as long as I'm happy with my finishing positions and tire performance then there is no need for me to change.
    Its ok to admit you cant install the kit properly

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  47. #47
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    Tubeless in texas

    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    2) new giant revel -$700 or talon $900
    3)new trek mamba $950 ish
    All the above with state tax and tubeless conversion additional
    Or used (Craigslist) 2008 gf xcal $750. Tubeless already set and with the (then) stock fox air fork. Suppose to be low miles. I have tried the cannondale a and giants...and they feel comparable by dollar range. I haven't tried mamba or xcal yet...but that is next.
    Giant lbs seems better than other.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    Its ok to admit you cant install the kit properly
    It wasn't my bike... I didn't install it.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    What's the difference between a Trail 5 and a Trail 7? I picked up a new 2013 Cannondale Trail 7 for $500.00 from a local bike store. Since you're in Dallas, I've got it for sale, $400 if you're interested.
    2007 FS KHS XC104
    2012 FS Yeti SB95 (Race/XT)
    2013 HT Cannondale Trail 7
    2013 HT Specialized Hardrock Sport (the commuter)

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    2) new giant revel -$700 or talon $900
    3)new trek mamba $950 ish
    All the above with state tax and tubeless conversion additional
    Or used (Craigslist) 2008 gf xcal $750. Tubeless already set and with the (then) stock fox air fork. Suppose to be low miles. I have tried the cannondale a and giants...and they feel comparable by dollar range. I haven't tried mamba or xcal yet...but that is next.
    Giant lbs seems better than other.
    Stay away from the pre trek gary fishers. I had a2009 xcal that cracked and luckily was able to get it replaced on the lifetime warranty. I don't think you would be as luck buying second hand as the lifetime warranty only applies to the original owner unless you can find a lbs that will help you out.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50calray View Post
    What's the difference between a Trail 5 and a Trail 7? I picked up a new 2013 Cannondale Trail 7 for $500.00 from a local bike store. Since you're in Dallas, I've got it for sale, $400 if you're interested.
    If I am going used, I am going to get a superior fork out of the deal. If I am going with a low end Suntour, I am going to buy from my LBS and get some warranty out of it. Thanks for the thought, I am tempted to go to the $900 range new and look at Mamba, Cannondale trail sl4 or Giant Talon....all of those are right in that range.
    ITs funny, I look at everyone listed with numerous bikes and it sounds like 'cat ladies'. It starts off with one and one day you have a dozen.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangyman View Post
    Stay away from the pre trek gary fishers. I had a2009 xcal that cracked and luckily was able to get it replaced on the lifetime warranty. I don't think you would be as luck buying second hand as the lifetime warranty only applies to the original owner unless you can find a lbs that will help you out.
    THis is my fear.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    THis is my fear.....
    Well any frame can crack but some more than most like the old Fishers. Buying used you will get a lot more for your money. If I were you and new to the sport, I would find myself a $200 bike and ride it for a quarter. If you still love the sport after 3 months than go get something in the $1500 price range and use the old bike as a buddy bike.

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    Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by tangyman View Post
    Well any frame can crack but some more than most like the old Fishers. Buying used you will get a lot more for your money. If I were you and new to the sport, I would find myself a $200 bike and ride it for a quarter. If you still love the sport after 3 months than go get something in the $1500 price range and use the old bike as a buddy bike.
    I have that $200 bike...it's a pos. I'm ready to move on, after a little more seat time.

  55. #55
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by tangyman View Post
    Well any frame can crack but some more than most like the old Fishers. Buying used you will get a lot more for your money. If I were you and new to the sport, I would find myself a $200 bike and ride it for a quarter. If you still love the sport after 3 months than go get something in the $1500 price range and use the old bike as a buddy bike.
    That's what i did. Except my new bike was 3k. -.-

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    Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by mjduct View Post
    I'm sorry bud, but everything you describe there is some form of user error/ bad preparation... not the fault of the equipment at all...

    Full Disclosure: I have a set of stans 355's with hutchison pythons that I've put stans in 3 times and been running without issue for 2 years, the only time they drop air is when the temperature changes drastically... My new bike is rolling on Hans Dampfs on Stans FLOW EX's seated with a floorpump. all the goofy ass gorilla tape, bastardized cut up tube stuff is for the birds, if you save 20 bucks on the setup and waste 3 hours getting it to work, you've just valued your time at $7.33/ hour which is less than minimum wage. (my buddy trying to follow a forum tubeless setup instead of going with the kit from the get go)

    buy the right pieces and make the upgrade, you'll never go back. And probably never need to change a flat again either...
    My gorilla tape method has had zero issues and was a breeze to setup. Regardless of what method you choose, proper setup will lead to a better system than tubes. Proper setup includes wheels and tires. I prefer the wtb universal bead profile with a strip of gorilla and any tire you want so long as it isn't a super light thin sidewall race tire. To each his own.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  57. #57
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    I am interested (nervous) in these sidewall rips I keep hearing about. Is this something that occurs much more with tubeless set-ups? I've been riding since 2005 and I have never had a sidewall tear with tubes (knock on wood).

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    Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by smokehouse4444 View Post
    I am interested (nervous) in these sidewall rips I keep hearing about. Is this something that occurs much more with tubeless set-ups? I've been riding since 2005 and I have never had a sidewall tear with tubes (knock on wood).
    No, sidewall tears are on both sides of the spectrum. Regardless of tubes or tubeless sidewall tears are going to happen.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  59. #59
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by smokehouse4444 View Post
    I am interested (nervous) in these sidewall rips I keep hearing about. Is this something that occurs much more with tubeless set-ups? I've been riding since 2005 and I have never had a sidewall tear with tubes (knock on wood).
    Yes it occurs Alot! Keep running tubes they are great!

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    Wow, that's so funny. Ha Ha. First ride on the tubeless Yeti today out at Reimers Ranch. Tubeless and the new style Racing Ralphs were awesome. I don't know if it was more one than the other, or a little of both, but I certainly had more grip (and confidence) in the turns...and it was hauling ass! Ran it through a lot of the baby head sections and no problemo. If everything continues to go smoothly, I'll probably change the 29er over in about a month.

  61. #61
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by smokehouse4444 View Post
    Wow, that's so funny. Ha Ha. First ride on the tubeless Yeti today out at Reimers Ranch. Tubeless and the new style Racing Ralphs were awesome. I don't know if it was more one than the other, or a little of both, but I certainly had more grip (and confidence) in the turns...and it was hauling ass! Ran it through a lot of the baby head sections and no problemo. If everything continues to go smoothly, I'll probably change the 29er over in about a month.
    Yep, its awesome.

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    Update on this whole tubeless thing. I went ahead and had the Stumpy FSR 29er converted to tubeless along with the Yeti 26er. Can anyone say "Dufus". I am just in awe of how much better tubeless is than tubes. I ride in some fairly rough, rocky stuff quite a bit, and have not had one problem whatsoever. Much better ride quality, much less perceived rolling resistance, no flats. The other day I came back from Muleshoe and as I rolled the bike into the garage I noticed what looked like something stuck to the tread of the front tire. I pulled it off, and a thorn came sliding out that was about an inch long. It was straight into a knobby, and immediately air started rushing out. I kinda pushed on it a bit, but ended up just letting it go. I figured I would have to fix it later. Couple of days later I checked it and it was just fine. Aired it up a little, but other than that...good to go. Anyone on the fence about the tubeless thing...do it, without hesitation.

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    I've gone from tube advocate to tubeless over time.

    For texas the key is making sure that you are putting fresh stans in the tires every few months, it dries up quickly here.
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by austin_bike View Post
    I've gone from tube advocate to tubeless over time.

    For texas the key is making sure that you are putting fresh stans in the tires every few months, it dries up quickly here.

    I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip. I planned on getting with the folks at BSS to for some upkeep tips since they are the ones that converted both bikes. By the way, I really like your site...I send people to it all of the time if they are new to the Austin area. Thanks for all the work on it. Feel free to post my map for Reimers Ranch on it if you would like.

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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Did your fsr come with tubeless compatible tires and wheels?

    I want to run tubeless but am hesitant to set them up ghetto since I don't have an air compressor.

    How much did BSS charge if you don't mind me asking?

  66. #66
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    Since both of the bikes I had it done on I was having built up in one way or the other, I wasn't sure on the cost. I called the folks at BSS and it sounds like it would be roughly $100. On my Stumpy FSR 29er, I had already had them build me up a better back wheel because of some problems, which Specialized pitched in, so I had them build up the same Stans Flow Rim for me on the front at the same time they converted it to tubeless. I think the original wheels and tires are fine for it, but you may check into it a little more. Tell em Dave with the Turquoise Yeti sent you!

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokehouse4444 View Post
    I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip. I planned on getting with the folks at BSS to for some upkeep tips since they are the ones that converted both bikes. By the way, I really like your site...I send people to it all of the time if they are new to the Austin area. Thanks for all the work on it. Feel free to post my map for Reimers Ranch on it if you would like.
    Thanks. If you are near central Austin, if you come by my place I can show you how to add more Stan's. takes a few minutes.

    You need a cor removal tool ($2-3) and a syringe (<$10) to make it all work.
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  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Did your fsr come with tubeless compatible tires and wheels?

    I want to run tubeless but am hesitant to set them up ghetto since I don't have an air compressor.

    How much did BSS charge if you don't mind me asking?
    Depending on the tire you should have no issue. I use a floor pump for mine. Planning on getting a compressor in the future but for now a pump works fine. You may need to throw a tube in, pump it up and make it seal, then pull the tube and put In Stan's.

    Even when I do that I can get 2 wheels done in well less than an hour.
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    I have wtb speed disc i19 wheels and geax aka tires. Neither of which are ust/tubeless ready I believe. I just really want to try it out.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    I have wtb speed disc i19 wheels and geax aka tires. Neither of which are ust/tubeless ready I believe. I just really want to try it out.
    I'm running 26" Geax AKA TNT tubeless on Stans Arch EX rims with Orange Seal sealant. I had some issues mounting, but after pulling the yellow Stans tape and retaping with Orange Seal's tape, I was all set.

    Great tires....but scary on wet rock!

  71. #71
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    I have also heard people use gorilla tape to seal up rims. I use Kenda tires that are not tubeless and they work fine. However, Kenda now has tubeless models out as well. I have Stan's flow rims. For me ust was always a pain in the butt so I never used it.
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    Re: Tubeless in texas

    What do the tubeless ready/compatible wheels have that standard ones don't? Is it lip construction or something?

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    What do the tubeless ready/compatible wheels have that standard ones don't? Is it lip construction or something?
    There isn't a real clearcut answer to this. Same with tires. Most "non-tubeless" work fine, some don't. The best answer is that anything that says tubeless has actually been engineered and tested to do so and will hold the bead tight. However, all rims from the dawn of time are designed to hold a tire's bead securely. Otherwise they would slip off with or without a tube. That's why so many are able to go ghetto tubeless without a problem.

    Actual UST rims have a patented hooked bead seat (lip) and the spoke holes are not drilled through the inner wall of the rim. Thus, it is airtight without the use of tape. There are others (Crankbros., some Eastons) that also use systems that don't require tape. Other tubeless ready wheels have to use tape to seal the spoke holes but have one form or another of bead seat technology that hooks the tire specifically for use tubeless.

  74. #74
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  75. #75
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    my experience: use tubeless tires (not necessarily UST) and the correct adapter rim strip or tubeless rim for the job. using non-tubeless tires is a gamble. they might seal up and work flawlessly and they are lighter, but they can get cut more easily and might not seal up at the bead.

    also, you can't put "yellow tape" on just any rim and expect it to seal up. you need your rim to have a tight fit at the bead like a Stan's BST rim provides or the bead will burp air. you can do this by using a tubeless-specific rim or a rim with the appropriate tubeless rim strip like Bontrager's plastic rim strips for their rims.

  76. #76
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    Unlike mack turtle I like the gamble. One loop of gorilla tape has held regular tires to regular rims for three years. There have been burps but pumped right back up.
    Keep trying to do the awesomest thing you've ever done.

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    I just went tubeless on my 29er @ 221 I am running 24/28. My first ride on ust tires, stans sealer and conti XKing II protection 2.2s. It rained for 3 days up here and took to the trail this morning. I was utterly amazed at the traction and hookup. I went from rock gardens to mud to sand with out a skipped beat. I also slammed my rear wheel into a sharp rock that would have cut my sidewall on my old ride. There OSA section of trail that is loose rock over hard pack climb that I was having issues with traction I made it with out issue and it was wet. I tubeless and not looking back.

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  78. #78
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    My 29er's rear tire is now going flat. In the past, if it was a low, I just aired it up and it would hold for quite awhile. Now it won't hold for more than 20 minutes or so. Since I see no gaping rips or holes, and the sidewalls are still tight with the rims, I am assuming the Stan's is dried up. Do I understand correctly that all I need to do is buy a core removal tool, remove the core, put the Stan's in a syringe and inject it into the tire, replace core, roll it around a bit, then reinflate it? Roughly 2 ounces or less? Let me know if I have a part of this wrong. Also, I think I will just go ahead and do the front tire on the 29er, and both tires on the 26er as well while I am doing it.

  79. #79
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    Tubeless is better. That is all.

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    Sounds good smoke house. You might eventually want to pop the bead off to remove the dried up stans.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBRsteve View Post
    I've never run tubeless and am in no hurry to.

    Friday my buddy and I were pre-riding the Comfort race course and he got a flat that was too big and wouldn't seal (he runs tubeless) and when we went to put a tube in to help him limp back to the truck, the tubeless valve stem was complete stuck.

    Funny end to the story though... his tire was toast and we didn't bring a spare with us.
    If you have never run tubeless then you really have no business telling people not to run tubeless. You really don't know since you personally have not tried it.

    The flat you described was basically the sidewall tearing. Sidewall tears happen with and with out tubes.

    Valve stems all have a nut which you screw on to keep the valve stem in place. Even tubes have a valve stem and nut. Your friend just over tighten the nut on the valve stem. The same nut can be over tightened on a tube as well.

    It's okay to not want to go tubeless, that is your choice. You should avoid giving advice about tubeless to other people since you are not well educated on the subject, and have never personally tried it.


    I vote +1 tubeless.
    My personal experience has been tubeless for 8 years, zero flats and zero problems. Previously, I had a flat every other ride prior to switching to tubeless. Possibly the best and cheapest upgrade I have ever done. I run stans sealant, stans flow rims, and racing ralph evo non-ust tires. I have another bike with stan's sealant, Mavic 819's, and kenda karma non ust tires. As a side note .... it was a huge weight savings going tubeless.

  82. #82
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    I have run both tubes and tubeless, and once you figure out how to install, service and maintain tubeless, it is a far better solution.

    I still carry a tube with me for emergencies but haven't pulled it out in over 2 years.
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  83. #83
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    I didn't see anything about CO2 in this thread - sorry if I overlooked it, but I want to offer a warning to those new to tubeless. If you need to use CO2 on the trail, be sure to drain the tire and refill with air from a pump / compressor. Something about the CO2 reacts with the Stan's and will harden it into a ball within a couple of weeks. I learned this the hard way .... my tires started going down between rides, and then during a ride. I was shaking the wheels to listen for liquid -- what I was hearing instead was the dried sealant. Very interesting.

    I still carry CO2 rather than a pump, but if I need to use on the trail, I just change with the compressor when I get home.

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