Unlike mack turtle I like the gamble. One loop of gorilla tape has held regular tires to regular rims for three years. There have been burps but pumped right back up.
Keep trying to do the awesomest thing you've ever done.
I just went tubeless on my 29er @ 221 I am running 24/28. My first ride on ust tires, stans sealer and conti XKing II protection 2.2s. It rained for 3 days up here and took to the trail this morning. I was utterly amazed at the traction and hookup. I went from rock gardens to mud to sand with out a skipped beat. I also slammed my rear wheel into a sharp rock that would have cut my sidewall on my old ride. There OSA section of trail that is loose rock over hard pack climb that I was having issues with traction I made it with out issue and it was wet. I tubeless and not looking back.
FFL 07 / SOT
My 29er's rear tire is now going flat. In the past, if it was a low, I just aired it up and it would hold for quite awhile. Now it won't hold for more than 20 minutes or so. Since I see no gaping rips or holes, and the sidewalls are still tight with the rims, I am assuming the Stan's is dried up. Do I understand correctly that all I need to do is buy a core removal tool, remove the core, put the Stan's in a syringe and inject it into the tire, replace core, roll it around a bit, then reinflate it? Roughly 2 ounces or less? Let me know if I have a part of this wrong. Also, I think I will just go ahead and do the front tire on the 29er, and both tires on the 26er as well while I am doing it.
Tubeless is better. That is all.
Sounds good smoke house. You might eventually want to pop the bead off to remove the dried up stans.
If you have never run tubeless then you really have no business telling people not to run tubeless. You really don't know since you personally have not tried it.
Originally Posted by CBRsteve
The flat you described was basically the sidewall tearing. Sidewall tears happen with and with out tubes.
Valve stems all have a nut which you screw on to keep the valve stem in place. Even tubes have a valve stem and nut. Your friend just over tighten the nut on the valve stem. The same nut can be over tightened on a tube as well.
It's okay to not want to go tubeless, that is your choice. You should avoid giving advice about tubeless to other people since you are not well educated on the subject, and have never personally tried it.
I vote +1 tubeless.
My personal experience has been tubeless for 8 years, zero flats and zero problems. Previously, I had a flat every other ride prior to switching to tubeless. Possibly the best and cheapest upgrade I have ever done. I run stans sealant, stans flow rims, and racing ralph evo non-ust tires. I have another bike with stan's sealant, Mavic 819's, and kenda karma non ust tires. As a side note .... it was a huge weight savings going tubeless.
I have run both tubes and tubeless, and once you figure out how to install, service and maintain tubeless, it is a far better solution.
I still carry a tube with me for emergencies but haven't pulled it out in over 2 years.
I didn't see anything about CO2 in this thread - sorry if I overlooked it, but I want to offer a warning to those new to tubeless. If you need to use CO2 on the trail, be sure to drain the tire and refill with air from a pump / compressor. Something about the CO2 reacts with the Stan's and will harden it into a ball within a couple of weeks. I learned this the hard way .... my tires started going down between rides, and then during a ride. I was shaking the wheels to listen for liquid -- what I was hearing instead was the dried sealant. Very interesting.
I still carry CO2 rather than a pump, but if I need to use on the trail, I just change with the compressor when I get home.
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