Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 83
  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    5
    when the mechanic at my lbs asked me years ago if i wanted to go tubeless on a new wheel i asked what he thought. his answer was that i should go tubeless "unless you like flattin.'" the only other reason might be if you're on the heavier side.

  2. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: salscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    107
    Thanks much for the suggestions. I guess you like the components?

  3. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Thanks much for the suggestions. I guess you like the components?
    The fisher is nice, it has an air fork, so you can adjust instead of buying new springs. And the Sram X-7 and X-9 is good stuff. I have that on my 07 Kona it is still kicking.

  4. #29
    Big Damn Hero
    Reputation: CBRsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    374
    I've never run tubeless and am in no hurry to. I use Geax Aka tires and they are awesome... a little heavy (~700 grams) but I can run them down to 25psi with tubes and not worry about flats. I'm 175lbs.

    Friday my buddy and I were pre-riding the Comfort race course and he got a flat that was too big and wouldn't seal (he runs tubeless) and when we went to put a tube in to help him limp back to the truck, the tubeless valve stem was complete stuck. Couldn't get it out. So he had to hike back down to a fire road while I rode back to the truck to grab some pliers. An hour after the flat we finally got the valve stem out and were able to get him back to the truck. That experience has made me shy away from tubeless even more.

    Funny end to the story though... his tire was toast and we didn't bring a spare with us. So we had to drive back to Boerne and find a Wal-Mart at like 8pm. He bought the only 29er tire there, a Bell 29in mountain bike tire for $29 that weighed at least 2x the Specialized tire we took off. We did the marathon race yesterday at Comfort and he said he had better grip than he's ever had before from the rear end. But he did say he could really start to feel the extra weight on the back of the bike towards the end of the race.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  5. #30
    Austin, Texas
    Reputation: smokehouse4444's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    162
    I keep wanting to, wanting to, wanting to go tubeless. Almost everyone that I talk to says I just HAVE to go tubeless, it is just that much better. I still haven't brought myself to do it. The one primary dissenter is a woman that I used to ride with some and who may be one of the best riders in the area. I asked her about it awhile back, and she said that she had been tubeless for awhile, but had gone back to tubes. Just simpler...much less hassle. I'm about to have a bike built up and am again thinking about it, but still just can't pull that tubeless trigger.

  6. #31
    Not an O2 thief.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    588
    With the new Specialized Air Tool MTB, you don't need an air compressor. This thing kicks ass.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Roll over the weak and bunny hop the dead!

    Blog this...!

    El Paso Puzzler 35 or 50 miler

  7. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EmbraceTheHate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    520
    Listening to a woman.......*sigh*

    Btw i lost a pound goin tubeless.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  8. #33
    Austin, Texas
    Reputation: smokehouse4444's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    Listening to a woman.......*sigh*

    Btw i lost a pound goin tubeless.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    Umm yeah. That particular woman talking about mountain biking...I listen to.

  9. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    5
    tubeless is the only way, i've even done it to my road bike. i do alot of am/dh stuff and have zero issues

  10. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    539
    I highly recommend it. I have used both the split tube method and the gorilla tape method. I like the gorilla tape method a little more. I have had zero hassle with my setup. I am riding a rigid 29er so it's a little bit harder on my system and am able to run 25psi in the back and 28 up front.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  11. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    128
    Not going tubeless is silly, here's why:

    Tubeless - less puncture flats
    Tubeless - less air pressure
    Tubeless - can be fixed with a tube

    Tubes - puncture flats are a constant worry
    Tubes - higher air pressure to combat pinch flats means a rougher ride and less traction
    Tubes - Can be fixed with a tube

    If you slash your sidewall, tubes or tubeless, you're gonna need a fat patch and a tube.
    If you crank down your presta screw, tube or tubeless, with the force of 10,000 gorillas, you're gonna need pliers.

    The fixes for a fubar tube or tubeless are the same, the benefits are not.

    I run a tubeless setup with non-tubeless tires and non-tubeless rims until the tread wears off. No flats, no problems. I didn't like the gorilla tape method and I ended up buying one roll of that Stans neon-green rim tape. It lasts forever and was super cheap. Once every 6 months I refresh the orange seal by pulling out the valve stem and squeezing some orange goo in.

    FYI - I'm 170lbs and I run 21lb in the front and 23 in the rear. My home trails are Jedi in the BCGB.
    =====
    bacon (is my dog)
    http://www.sbtec.com

  12. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: salscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul.C View Post
    I highly recommend it. I have used both the split tube method and the gorilla tape method. I like the gorilla tape method a little more. I have had zero hassle with my setup. I am riding a rigid 29er so it's a little bit harder on my system and am able to run 25psi in the back and 28 up front.
    Thanks...are you in Colin county? Erwin park appears to be the best place ...although there are tons of bicycle paths around.

  13. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    539
    I would recommend Northshore if you want a mix of fast xc single track and some extremely fun technical bits. You can easily bypass most of the major tech sections by deleting a whole loop out of your ride. Also if you want a quick 30 minute ride there are endless options at Northshore since there are a number of trail heads.

    I do like Erwin park but it is about a 15 minute longer drive for me from Farmers branch (Dallas co.).

    I vote for trying all the DORBA trails and decide for your self.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  14. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    539
    Quote Originally Posted by baconismidog View Post
    If you slash your sidewall, tubes or tubeless, you're gonna need a fat patch and a tube.
    If you crank down your presta screw, tube or tubeless, with the force of 10,000 gorillas, you're gonna need pliers.

    The fixes for a fubar tube or tubeless are the same, the benefits are not.

    Quoted for the truth. Sidewall tears are downsides of running rubber tires. No matter what you stick inside the tire a sidewall tear will be very difficult to fix.
    "Your opinion may vary, but it's stupid." -Rich Dillen

  15. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by CBRsteve View Post
    I've never run tubeless and am in no hurry to. I use Geax Aka tires and they are awesome... a little heavy (~700 grams) but I can run them down to 25psi with tubes and not worry about flats. I'm 175lbs.

    Friday my buddy and I were pre-riding the Comfort race course and he got a flat that was too big and wouldn't seal (he runs tubeless) and when we went to put a tube in to help him limp back to the truck, the tubeless valve stem was complete stuck. Couldn't get it out. So he had to hike back down to a fire road while I rode back to the truck to grab some pliers. An hour after the flat we finally got the valve stem out and were able to get him back to the truck. That experience has made me shy away from tubeless even more.

    Funny end to the story though... his tire was toast and we didn't bring a spare with us. So we had to drive back to Boerne and find a Wal-Mart at like 8pm. He bought the only 29er tire there, a Bell 29in mountain bike tire for $29 that weighed at least 2x the Specialized tire we took off. We did the marathon race yesterday at Comfort and he said he had better grip than he's ever had before from the rear end. But he did say he could really start to feel the extra weight on the back of the bike towards the end of the race.
    I'm sorry bud, but everything you describe there is some form of user error/ bad preparation... not the fault of the equipment at all...

    Full Disclosure: I have a set of stans 355's with hutchison pythons that I've put stans in 3 times and been running without issue for 2 years, the only time they drop air is when the temperature changes drastically... My new bike is rolling on Hans Dampfs on Stans FLOW EX's seated with a floorpump. all the goofy ass gorilla tape, bastardized cut up tube stuff is for the birds, if you save 20 bucks on the setup and waste 3 hours getting it to work, you've just valued your time at $7.33/ hour which is less than minimum wage. (my buddy trying to follow a forum tubeless setup instead of going with the kit from the get go)

    buy the right pieces and make the upgrade, you'll never go back. And probably never need to change a flat again either...

  16. #41
    Austin, Texas
    Reputation: smokehouse4444's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    162
    Well OK, you guys helped push me over the edge...not sure if I am going to the dark side or the bright side! The old bike, the new frame and all of the other stuff is at the shop to be built up in the next week and a half or so. I figured I would have them set up this bike with tubeless and see how I like it. If I am happy enough with it, I'll do the same for my Stumpy 29'er, if not, I'll just go back to tubes. Here goes!

  17. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Thanks...are you in Colin county? Erwin park appears to be the best place ...although there are tons of bicycle paths around.
    I'm in Colin county but haven't ridden Erwin. I hear it's a really nice trail...especially for beginners. I personally ride RCP (Rowlett) out in Garland and Boulder south of Dallas. Anyhow, I'm a fellow Clyde (275lbs) and use slime tubes which work great for goat heads. Thorns are't really an issue on trails I've ridden aound Dallas.

    Anyhow, check Dallas Off Road Bike Association Dallas Off Road Bicycle Association
    Last edited by 50calray; 01-30-2013 at 11:30 AM.

  18. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EmbraceTheHate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    520

    Re: Tubeless in texas

    I dont understand why it took so long to decide. Go ride the trails ask everyone thats riding what they are running. Guarantee the hardcore guys are all running tubeless.

    This bs i hear of them being crap and leaking is just bad prep.


    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  19. #44
    Big Damn Hero
    Reputation: CBRsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    374
    Quote Originally Posted by mjduct View Post
    I'm sorry bud, but everything you describe there is some form of user error/ bad preparation... not the fault of the equipment at all...
    The only thing that could be construed as 'user error' as you put it would be the valve stem screw... which was hand tightened. We have no idea how it got so tight, but it did and since I didn't have my Leatherman on hand, we were screwed (pun intended).

    If you're referring to the lack of grip as user error, then that's probably just a result of lack of info. He uses some Specialized S-Works tires and they are super light... and have minimal grip as a by product of that lightness. The POS Bell tire he put on has monster nobs and given the terrain at Comfort worked great despite the weight.

    End all of this though: to each his own! I consider myself pretty hardcore as I rode over 3,800 miles last year and have done 3 races in the past 6 weeks. I have races 3 over the next 4 weekends too.

    I only had one flat on the MTB last year and it was due to a thorn and yes, I agree that tubeless might have helped there. But tubes work for me and as long as I'm happy with my finishing positions and tire performance then there is no need for me to change.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  20. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    468
    I'm not opposed to tubeless, I have a couple tubeless wheel sets but I'm just used to tubes and really don't run into situations enough that would warrant changing them out.
    2007 FS KHS XC104
    2012 FS Yeti SB95 (Race/XT)
    2013 HT Cannondale Trail 7
    2013 HT Specialized Hardrock Sport (the commuter)

  21. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EmbraceTheHate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    520

    Re: Tubeless in texas

    Quote Originally Posted by CBRsteve View Post
    The only thing that could be construed as 'user error' as you put it would be the valve stem screw... which was hand tightened. We have no idea how it got so tight, but it did and since I didn't have my Leatherman on hand, we were screwed (pun intended).

    If you're referring to the lack of grip as user error, then that's probably just a result of lack of info. He uses some Specialized S-Works tires and they are super light... and have minimal grip as a by product of that lightness. The POS Bell tire he put on has monster nobs and given the terrain at Comfort worked great despite the weight.

    End all of this though: to each his own! I consider myself pretty hardcore as I rode over 3,800 miles last year and have done 3 races in the past 6 weeks. I have races 3 over the next 4 weekends too.

    I only had one flat on the MTB last year and it was due to a thorn and yes, I agree that tubeless might have helped there. But tubes work for me and as long as I'm happy with my finishing positions and tire performance then there is no need for me to change.
    Its ok to admit you cant install the kit properly

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  22. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: salscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    107

    Tubeless in texas

    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    2) new giant revel -$700 or talon $900
    3)new trek mamba $950 ish
    All the above with state tax and tubeless conversion additional
    Or used (Craigslist) 2008 gf xcal $750. Tubeless already set and with the (then) stock fox air fork. Suppose to be low miles. I have tried the cannondale a and giants...and they feel comparable by dollar range. I haven't tried mamba or xcal yet...but that is next.
    Giant lbs seems better than other.

  23. #48
    Big Damn Hero
    Reputation: CBRsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    374
    Quote Originally Posted by EmbraceTheHate View Post
    Its ok to admit you cant install the kit properly
    It wasn't my bike... I didn't install it.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  24. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    What's the difference between a Trail 5 and a Trail 7? I picked up a new 2013 Cannondale Trail 7 for $500.00 from a local bike store. Since you're in Dallas, I've got it for sale, $400 if you're interested.
    2007 FS KHS XC104
    2012 FS Yeti SB95 (Race/XT)
    2013 HT Cannondale Trail 7
    2013 HT Specialized Hardrock Sport (the commuter)

  25. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by salscott View Post
    Let me hijack my own thread.
    I'm going tubeless...no doubt and I'll let the lbs set me up. Help me spend my money:
    1)new cannondale trail 5-$700 or 5 $900
    2) new giant revel -$700 or talon $900
    3)new trek mamba $950 ish
    All the above with state tax and tubeless conversion additional
    Or used (Craigslist) 2008 gf xcal $750. Tubeless already set and with the (then) stock fox air fork. Suppose to be low miles. I have tried the cannondale a and giants...and they feel comparable by dollar range. I haven't tried mamba or xcal yet...but that is next.
    Giant lbs seems better than other.
    Stay away from the pre trek gary fishers. I had a2009 xcal that cracked and luckily was able to get it replaced on the lifetime warranty. I don't think you would be as luck buying second hand as the lifetime warranty only applies to the original owner unless you can find a lbs that will help you out.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •