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  1. #1
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    Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale

    Hey Guys it's now time to find myself a fork for my MT800
    98% of the time I ride with my daughter so team weight is under 270 lbs No jumps or big drops last time I posted I was hoping to find something that will use the V brakes so I can keep the stock wheels but from the looks of it the best way is just to do it right and go Disc.

    I have looked at the DJ forks and was also looking at a '11 ROCK SHOX PIKE 426 U TURN COIL 95-140mm new on ebay for $299 and a '11 Argyle RC COIL 2011 100mm same price.
    I am also opened to used Fox forks

    I am trying to spend under $1000 for forks wheels and Avid BB7's any help would be great!!

  2. #2
    PMK
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    I now they get a bad critique from tandem teams, but I say go with an ATC modified to a wet style fork.

    The ATC gives you options of running a quick release wheel or 20mm axle wheel. You can also run it with cantilevers or discs.

    Plus it is super easy to work on.

    PK
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  3. #3
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    I've been running an RS Argyle on our tandem for a few years and it seems to be doing a good job with minimal complaints. It is pretty heavy as it has steel 32mm stanchions, but that is part of the reason I bought it. I figured with the steel stanchions, I'd gain some stiffness, at least for a single crown fork.

    I think the Pike wouldn't be stiff enough for tandem use, unless you're not riding rough off-road stuff, but just using it to "take the edge off" of light singletrack, double track or gravel roads.

  4. #4
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    Now that I looked at the ATC site I do like the idea of being able to work on the fork myself but I also like the idea of keeping my wheels for now and keeping the cost down and it's Tandem ready.
    on the other hand if I went with a RS Argyle or a DJ2 I would upgrade to Disc not that I am doing the speeds that make them a must have but they would look good lol........
    Paul do you know if I can download the manual for the ATC I didn't see anything on the web site?

    TFR what is your team weight using the RS and is that fork Air or Coil?

  5. #5
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    300'ish (and dropping ). It is a coil. Seems to be OK for us, but not much heavier could ride with a coil without getting a custom spring wound.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Fubar Rider View Post
    300'ish (and dropping ). It is a coil. Seems to be OK for us, but not much heavier could ride with a coil without getting a custom spring wound.
    Thanks

  7. #7
    PMK
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    I have an ATC manual at home. Can you wait a few days until I get home and scan it?

    PK
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    I have an ATC manual at home. Can you wait a few days until I get home and scan it?

    PK
    Sure Thanks!
    I sent ATC an email the other day looking for one and to get more info

  9. #9
    PMK
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    As the owner of three of these forks, and had them torn down to the smallest components, here is a quick description of them.

    These are an old school style cartridge fork. Very similar to a Rock Shox Judy series or Cartridge style Manitou forks.

    If the fork is kept stock, they are more similar to the Manitou in that they have grease prots where you simply give them a squirt of grease.

    The cartridges are for damping have proven better in longevity and simplicity. Where Rock Shox and Manitou built a flexy set of fork legs and a closer tolerance thru shaft style damper, they don't work well together on account of the entirely different flex properties, The damper is strained to flex with the fork legs, and in turn will leak easily on account of the bending forces on the damper shaft. Also, being a thru shaft design, both ends of the damper shaft are supported, compounding matters.

    The ATC is not a through shaft, This allows it to handle flex better and the damper can match what little flex the forks do show, which is almost none based on the design being larger diameter thinner walled aluminum legs.

    The fork is possibly the best fork for no flex. The fork is coil sprung, while heavier it is reliable with a small weight penalty. I have considered making one of ours converted to an air spring, I opted not to, based on how often tandems suffer air spring failures. Not everyday, but for comparison coil springs fail far less often.


    The ATC is not a perfect fork. It is however easily and inexpensively made much better than stock.

    Our best ATC has been converted from a greased type fork to a wet fork similar to a FOX 40. The modifications are not difficult, and the 10 required parts are easily procured. In building a light 100% machined billet fork, I found the triple clamps can tend to pinch the fork tubes. The book spec on torque is very low, so they can be overtightened with no effort. I have converted our forks to a style with crush spacers. This allows better fork tube clamping with no risk of distortion to the tubes.

    Also, for us on the tandem, I changed damping fluid to something more viscous. While I had the damper apart, I made a simple modification to allow easy consistent bleeds. This mod, while not required, made the fork cartridge similar in some ways to that of a Twin Chamber fork on a current day motocross machine.

    The last change, and again inexpensive, was to make the fork follow terrain with less deflection AND get much better small bump compliance, the upper fork tubes were smoothed. This involves polishing while still leaving the hard coat anodize layer. To supplement this, a softer negative spring was installed.

    All up for parts to make this a really good tandem fork is about $15. The upgrades are easy, and could be done in stages. For your team weight the damper fluid change and mod could be held off and also the polishing of the fork tubes. The rest is super easy and could be done in an hour or two max.

    I have modified one of these forks for Alex. I am not sure his intentions for it, but did know it had been ridden. Maybe give him a call to see if he will sell it. That fork though does have 20mm axle so it would need to be changed to 9mm.

    PK
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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the input Paul bty Dean just sent me the info on the forks they do look easy to keep up

  11. #11
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    Dj 2

    I picked up a DJ2 (9mm QR) for about $150. I liked it much better than the C'dale moto we had before. I ride commuting and moderate (sometimes not moderate) trails with my 6 yr old. After 6 months it started leaking. I sent it in to Marzocchi and they determined that it needed to be replaced due to a manufacturing problem. The new one is on the way.

  12. #12
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    Still looking at a 2004 DJ 1 I think I would be better off with the 20mm a local guy has one on ebay.
    If it don't sell I might get him to go to $100-125

    2004 Marzocchi Dirt Jumper I | eBay

  13. #13
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    I'm trying an experiment this weekend, if it works I will have a new in box DJ2 for sale very cheap.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    I'm trying an experiment this weekend, if it works I will have a new in box DJ2 for sale very cheap.
    Sounds like someone got a new fork....... It looks like I'm on Hold for now

  15. #15
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    I'm actually going to try converting the front of our mt3000 to a 29" wheel/fork...we'll see.

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    Any update on this? I wanted to update the forks on my MT800 and I have no idea what would be the best option (for the best price).

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    Last weekend I put a White Brothers Fluid 130 and a 29" wheel on the front of our MT 3000 (overkill) I wanted to try a 29" wheel to see if is helped on rolling over obstacles. It did, but the low speed steering was very floppy. If I reduced the travel to about 80mm, it was manageable but not great. Since I ride with a 6 year old, I chose to go back to a 26" wheel and 100mm fork. For the price, I still think the Marzocchi DJ is a good buy.

  18. #18
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    The Marzocchi DJ does not have lock out, correct? I wanted one with lockout as well.

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    Nope, no lockout. You are looking for a 9mm qr with lockout?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    Nope, no lockout. You are looking for a 9mm qr with lockout?
    Yup

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    Last weekend I put a White Brothers Fluid 130 and a 29" wheel on the front of our MT 3000 (overkill) I wanted to try a 29" wheel to see if is helped on rolling over obstacles. It did, but the low speed steering was very floppy. If I reduced the travel to about 80mm, it was manageable but not great. Since I ride with a 6 year old, I chose to go back to a 26" wheel and 100mm fork. For the price, I still think the Marzocchi DJ is a good buy.
    Interesting...Was this a loaner? Why the Fluid 130 and not the Loop?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by famp View Post
    Any update on this? I wanted to update the forks on my MT800 and I have no idea what would be the best option (for the best price).
    famp from what I have learned from these Guys the DJ is about the best you can do with out spending the Big Bucks.
    I was hoping to find a old fork with the V brakes and the 9mm I looked for some time but then gave up.
    I was looking to do the Disc and fork until I started looking at my drivetrain then that took a left turn lol......

    What year is your MT800?
    don't forget to post some pictures of it I will also be posting in that thread tomorrow

    The Official Cannondale Thread

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    Last weekend I put a White Brothers Fluid 130 and a 29" wheel on the front of our MT 3000 (overkill) I wanted to try a 29" wheel to see if is helped on rolling over obstacles. It did, but the low speed steering was very floppy. If I reduced the travel to about 80mm, it was manageable but not great. Since I ride with a 6 year old, I chose to go back to a 26" wheel and 100mm fork. For the price, I still think the Marzocchi DJ is a good buy.
    FWIW, in a true 29 vs 26 debate, on paper and on the trail, the 26 is the better geometry for anything with the wheel turned, even slightly. The 29 has two advantages, grip and ease of the tire getting over stuff which some equate to a faster roll.

    For us, and we have a bunch of miles on both size wheels. The 29 has a small window of working geometry. Granted even wrong they can be adapted too and work, but when fork angles and trail dimension are plotted, they directly relate to exactly how the bike feels in the dirt.

    While not violently unstable, the 29 can either turn well while scuffing your toes and being borderline twitchy, or will feel heavy and floppy.

    The 26, has more side grip on account of how the geometry when turning loads the tires sidewall tread. It also has less concern about toe overlap, and can find a proper trail dimension that provides predictable feel through the bars.

    The design factors for both lie in the numbers...headtube angle, fork offset, and trail dimension. Those magic points are paramount.

    FWIW, this is not starting a debate on 29 vs 26, just some reasons why things happen.

    If you have an early 98 or sooner Cannondale with the steeper headtube angle, it will better contend with the longer fork. Additionally, the less offset you can buy on the fork, will change the trail dimension longer which if not extreme will help side bite.

    If Cane Creek offered a magic angleset to pull that axle aft, this would alter the headtube angle, decrease trail which would remove the floppy, take away some front tire grip and probably allow the forks to slide more freely when in use. All good things.

    This may sound odd, but for us there are times when the 29 has too much grip.

    PK
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    famp from what I have learned from these Guys the DJ is about the best you can do with out spending the Big Bucks.
    I was hoping to find a old fork with the V brakes and the 9mm I looked for some time but then gave up.
    I was looking to do the Disc and fork until I started looking at my drivetrain then that took a left turn lol......

    What year is your MT800?
    don't forget to post some pictures of it I will also be posting in that thread tomorrow
    Sounds like a plan. I may go with DJ anyways.

    My CD MT800 is '03. I'll post pics as soon as I find someone willing to take one for us.

  25. #25
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    How about a Marzocchi 44 RLO it's a standard 9mm and can use V brakes
    Team under 270Lbs No drop offs or Jumps just XC riding

    Available colors: gloss black
    » 140mm (120 w/spacer)
    » AIR ADJUST
    + AIR PRELOAD
    » (RLO)
    + LOCK OUT
    + REBOUND
    » 9mm DROP OUT
    » 32mm HARD ANODIZED ALUMINUM STANCHIONS
    » ALUMINUM STEER TUBE
    » 6" PM D-BRAKE (MAX 203mm) + V-BRAKE (PINS NOT INCLUDED)

  26. #26
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    The 44 would probably work fine, although it is not a "tandem-rated" fork. Your team weight and riding description sound like you will stress it less than some single riders I know. The reason it is not a Marzocchi tandem fork is the aluminium steerer. (The DJ has steel) Drop the travel as low as possible, it would be even better for handling if you could get it down to 100mm.

  27. #27
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    I have seen a few post from Paul about these forks.......
    a local guy has a Marzocchi Drop Off 4 can these be changed from 150mm to 100mm?

    MARZOCCHI 150 MM SINGLE CROWN FORK

    How about a Rock Shox Domain R can this go down to 100mm or should I just stick with a Rockshox Argyle RC / Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 2

    As of right now both of these forks are going from 260-289 on sale and I want to grab one before it's to late..........

    Next on the list is to find a good deal on a good 20mm wheel

  28. #28
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    Mike, actually, I am more a fan of the Drop Off Triples with a double crown for the tandem.

    The Canadians are the ones that advertise most of the Drop Off Triples and unfortunately sell local pick up only. Then again some sell while others don't.

    You mentioned single crown, I doubt I would take this route unless I already had a disc capable front hub with a QR and small axle. But maybe you can make it workout.

    **2006 marzocchi dropoff sl 150mm travel** - Pinkbike

    This one would be better if he would ship, 20mm axle.

    Marzocchi Drop Off II 150mm - Pinkbike

    Used stuff is out there, just need to constantly look and work the deal.

    Your ad from Craigslist, offer him way less than $200, see if he'll consider 200 for the fork and wheel.

    PK
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Used stuff is out there, just need to constantly look and work the deal.

    Your ad from Craigslist, offer him way less than $200, see if he'll consider 200 for the fork and wheel.

    PK
    Thanks Paul $220 with the wheel is his best deal just waiting for better pics of the forks and wheel...
    Can these forks be reduced to 100-120mm what about spare parts if I need them

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Thanks Paul $220 with the wheel is his best deal just waiting for better pics of the forks and wheel...
    Can these forks be reduced to 100-120mm what about spare parts if I need them

    I'm not sure what type of parts you are asking about. Expendables likes seals should be no problem.

    All the oems, seem to discontinue parts after only a couple of years. This is a pretty simple fork, so other than seals it should last a reasonable amount of time.

    PK
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  31. #31
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    Okay Guys my last fork post I promise........
    I thought I had a used Fox 36 Talas but the steerer came up to short

    Now I'm thinking just buy new and be done with it but I can't make up my mind on these forks any input would be great.

    2012 Marzocchi DJ 1 ($410) vs DJ 2 ($260) vs 2011 Rock Shox Argyle RCT SoloAir ($365)

    What I like about the RS is the QR I need to remove my front wheel when loading it in my wifes van what I don't like about the DJ stuff is the QR from what I see it only has the one screw under the fork??

    This to me looks like the weak part and not up to par with RS but I could be wrong........

    Also another idea is the 2012 Marzocchi 55R not sure about the 160mm can I get this down to 120mm?

    Thanks Guys!!

  32. #32
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    Mike, sorry I did not reply to your PM about the fork on auction. It was within minutes of the auction close. No time to reply also since I was at work.

    As for the deciding factor being a quick release, that would rate low for me in regards to a tandem fork. The fork you desire is available. I saw another possibility on PB. Let me go look again.

    PK
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  33. #33
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    Check out the last one listed, that may be worth an offer. I don't know how heavy you are, or if it has air caps for bumping up spring rate, and it may not, but it may be a good basis to build from with a low reasonable offer. His listing says offers so ask him about $150 shipped. Make sure the steerer is long enough.

    As for the others, there are some I thought that take a standard QR wheel, so what if they say local only, many of these have been sitting idle unsold. Give them a stupid low shipped price. Make sure the steerer is long enough. If they sound flaky don't buy.

    FWIW, I need to stop looking at PB for you, stupid me made an offer on something I can use but don't need.

    PK

    06 Junior T - Pinkbike

    Marzocchi dual crown (Drop-off's) - Pinkbike

    1998 Marzocchi JT. T 160mm - Pinkbike

    in St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada - photo by DirtPro12 - Pinkbike

    2003 Marzocchi Jr. T - Pinkbike

    2003 marzocchi bomber junior PRICE DROP - Pinkbike
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    what I don't like about the DJ stuff is the QR from what I see it only has the one screw under the fork??
    That isn't a QR, it's a TA20 (through axle 20mm). The clamping system will be more than fine. They used a similar style with my 2006 66SL and I never had issues with it.

    That said, one of the reasons I upgraded to the 2011 66 EVO was for their QR20. So much nicer, since now I don't need allen wrenches. The QR needs greasing and "maintenance" of a sort, but I'm totally happy with the fork.

    I do still have my old 66SL. More fork than you want, but...

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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mike, sorry I did not reply to your PM about the fork on auction. It was within minutes of the auction close. No time to reply also since I was at work.

    As for the deciding factor being a quick release, that would rate low for me in regards to a tandem fork. The fork you desire is available. I saw another possibility on PB. Let me go look again.

    PK
    No Problem Paul....That fork is still for sale he sent me a email the other day I just got off the phone with Alex he has a few forks that might work so I will keep you posted on this

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    Quote Originally Posted by Okayfine View Post
    That isn't a QR, it's a TA20 (through axle 20mm). The clamping system will be more than fine. They used a similar style with my 2006 66SL and I never had issues with it.
    Thats good to hear Thanks!

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    I just love when Fed Ex knocks on my door
    Paul no Manual with this so I can't show you anything about this fork and I know that the web site is not much help.
    This is a coil with air preload with the rebound on top it looks to be a 09 model.
    I did find this about the fork I might try it out for a few months before I call about it.......

    http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspen...st6844327.html
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale-dscn5810.jpg  

    Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale-dscn5811.jpg  


  38. #38
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    OK Mike, yes I have worked on those. Never for travel reduction, always for the topic you linked.

    They can work good.

    PK
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    Placing my order for a BB7 200mm will it come with the right adapter for this fork or do I need to order something else?

  40. #40
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    Should be in the box. Be very careful about torquing the adapter to the lower legs, very easy to remove the threads.

    PK
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  41. #41
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    A Big Thanks To Alex @ MTBTandems

    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    OK Mike, yes I have worked on those. Never for travel reduction, always for the topic you linked.

    They can work good.

    PK
    Ok Paul I could not wait any longer I got my wheel from Alex the other day and wanted to get this together the front end was way to high with the stock fork so I opened her up to see what I would find............. so easy to work on
    I just rebuilt my Buddy's Fox F80X and that had a $hit load of O' rings.....
    For this fork I just found a PVC coupler that was just the right size and 40mm long for a total reduction of 60mm it is right at 100mm for now.
    Now I'm thinking of going to a flat bar and calling it a day
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale-dscn5828.jpg  

    Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale-dscn5833.jpg  

    Your thoughts on these forks for my C-Dale-dscn5834.jpg  


  42. #42
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    Mike, do not put the PVC against the top out spring. Crazy things may happen, from possibly slipping the spring inside the PVC or the PVC shredding and polluting the fork.

    I'm guessing the black spacer is nylon, delrin or a similar plastic. This may have similar results, but at least it is the spring against the oem material, and the oem spacer diameters both inside and outside.

    FWIW, if I were you, would contact Marzocchi and get them to sell you several of those spacers and stack them to get the ride height you desire. Probably a quick phone call and explanation will get them to you.

    Did you ride the bike with long travel? Those few mm's can be huge in how the handling manners are.

    PK
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mike, do not put the PVC against the top out spring. Crazy things may happen, from possibly slipping the spring inside the PVC or the PVC shredding and polluting the fork.

    I'm guessing the black spacer is nylon, delrin or a similar plastic. This may have similar results, but at least it is the spring against the oem material, and the oem spacer diameters both inside and outside.

    FWIW, if I were you, would contact Marzocchi and get them to sell you several of those spacers and stack them to get the ride height you desire. Probably a quick phone call and explanation will get them to you.

    Did you ride the bike with long travel? Those few mm's can be huge in how the handling manners are.

    PK
    I hear you about the oem spacer but to be honeest I think the PVC is much stronger then the stock spacer I was able to squeeze the stock spacer in my fingers and with the PVC it's much thicker and did not flex that is the only reason I put it next to the spring it's about 1mm smaller in OD the ID is also very close to the stock.
    I was going to ride this for a few weeks then tear it down to see how things are going.

    I will call Marzocchi on Monday to see if they have any spacers they are only about 1 hour away from me.
    I didn't ride the bike before lowering the fork it was just way to high and floppy for me so far this rides very nice but I need to get a pump to start playing with PSI........

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    I will call Marzocchi on Monday to see if they have any spacers they are only about 1 hour away from me.
    That puts you in SoCal? I did a quick search of the SoCal Tandems thread and didn't see you post. Quite a number of us around. We're in the Thousand Oaks area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Okayfine View Post
    That puts you in SoCal? I did a quick search of the SoCal Tandems thread and didn't see you post. Quite a number of us around. We're in the Thousand Oaks area.
    I did post a few times I have sent a few pm's to Patrick he's in Fullerton we are in Whittier about 25mins from him

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    Last edited by JokerW; 08-03-2012 at 03:38 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    I hear you about the oem spacer but to be honeest I think the PVC is much stronger then the stock spacer I was able to squeeze the stock spacer in my fingers and with the PVC it's much thicker and did not flex that is the only reason I put it next to the spring it's about 1mm smaller in OD the ID is also very close to the stock.
    I was going to ride this for a few weeks then tear it down to see how things are going.

    I will call Marzocchi on Monday to see if they have any spacers they are only about 1 hour away from me.
    I didn't ride the bike before lowering the fork it was just way to high and floppy for me so far this rides very nice but I need to get a pump to start playing with PSI........
    Mike, any progress on the fork?

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Mike, any progress on the fork?

    PK
    Hi Paul I called and talked to Mike over @ Marzocchi he has the spacers they want $5 each which I think is crazy I paid like .33 cents for the PVC Coupling and it's much stronger then those stock spacers.
    What I don't want is having 3 or 4 lose fitting spacer floating around in the fork I would like to find something I can cut to the size I need........

    I have under 50 miles on it now I plan on doing the "Open Bath Mod" next week I just need to get my pump and oil for it.
    Mike sent me the Marzocchi "how to" on it and oil levels for it.

    What do you think of this Mod and how many times have you done this before?
    Mike told me to stick with the 7.5wt oil but I did read a few post here that some of the Guys used a 10wt

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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Hi Paul I called and talked to Mike over @ Marzocchi he has the spacers they want $5 each which I think is crazy I paid like .33 cents for the PVC Coupling and it's much stronger then those stock spacers.
    What I don't want is having 3 or 4 lose fitting spacer floating around in the fork I would like to find something I can cut to the size I need........

    I have under 50 miles on it now I plan on doing the "Open Bath Mod" next week I just need to get my pump and oil for it.
    Mike sent me the Marzocchi "how to" on it and oil levels for it.

    What do you think of this Mod and how many times have you done this before?
    Mike told me to stick with the 7.5wt oil but I did read a few post here that some of the Guys used a 10wt
    I have done the mod a bunch of times.

    The design is flawed and so is the mod. The flaw is that the sealhead on the cartridge is by design meant to be sealed tight. Most open style cartridges, even the moto ones, have sealheads that leak slightly. None are actually sealed with a rubber seal. The sealing is merely the bushing to rod clearance and there is always a "controlled" leak. The leak allows air to purge from the top, keeping the damper full.

    With the sealhead tight, air can remain trapped and create havoc on the damping near full extension.

    Now the tricky part, and I have no idea where my notes are or if I even recorded what I did. A friend, that is constantly buying and selling bikes has had me work on several of these mods. None done per the instructions worked that well. He gave me the go ahead to build what I thought would be the best setup for these forks.

    I did accomplish the release of the gas pressure. Staked the IFP (floating piston), make sure this is done correctly and with good results. I have had to rework several forks that were modified by shops or owners and not properly done. The forks wouldn't move.

    As for the hole size, I forget the specified hole size, but I drilled at least two holes, one at the bottom and one nearer the top. The upper hole served to purge air, and the lower for damping. I may have drilled a third hole. This made the cartridge position sensitive, giving excellent small bump compliance with increasing damping deeper into the stroke.

    Obviously the hole sizes were altered and much smaller. The additional bleeds also play into the rebound circuit.

    Sorry I don't exactly remember. I do believe I used Mobil 1 ATF for fluid. Did slick honey on the seals. The owner gave feedback that the performance was the best of this generation of Marzocchi forks and he swaps a lot. The one thing he did mention to be better, was an ebay purchase of a "team" fork, it has odd decals and exotic fork coatings. It is very trick. That is a fork he has kept a long time for him.

    If I had to guess, I would believe the upper hole was probably 1/16", the second was probably a #60 or # 70, and the lower hole was just under the oem size.

    I know the fork can be real good. Should be a great fork once dialed in. Spacer wise, if you PVC or oem spacer starts to chunk you'll likely have seal leaks.

    I'll see if I have any notes recorded. Worse case you drill the oem size hole, need better purging, add another hole later and go to heavier fluid if needed. It's a simple fork.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

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    Got to figure it's possible to find some UHMW "tube," or aluminum tube for that matter in the proper ID and OD. Might also want to research what PVC will do in the presence of petro products.

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