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  1. #1
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    Looking For MTB Tandem

    Hey Guys any feedback would be great!
    My Wife and I have been off of bikes for a few years now and want to get back into riding but this time We would like to do it on a tandem

    What I am hoping to find is a used tandem for around $800-1000
    I have been looking at CL and eBay any other places I should be looking at?
    60% of the rides would be on the local bike path and the other 40% local dirt trails I was thinking C-dale for first Bike???
    Thanks Mike

  2. #2
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    Cannondale is a great first tandem. Typically many to choose from, almost always in your price range.

    Try looking here.

    http://bike.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/bike.c...tm=tandem&fil=

    or here

    http://www.tandemmag.com/classified/

    PK

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    PK hows Burley found one local looks to be in ok shape I guess I would need to take a look at it in person but how is the brand.
    Guy is looking to get $750 or so...........


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    Thanks PK I will keep looking until I find one local

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    Burley is good, we own a Burley Duet road tandem. Thing is, for $750, that or a little more should be able to get you a more modern and upgradable Cannondale. What's more, you're likely to suffer from little depreciation should you sell the Cannondale on after 1) You and your stoker decide to upgrade, or 2) You and your stoker decide tandem cycling is not for you.

    IMO that Burley is overpriced, but it may take some searching to find a Cannondale. It will be worth the effort, however.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okayfine View Post
    Burley is good, we own a Burley Duet road tandem. Thing is, for $750, that or a little more should be able to get you a more modern and upgradable Cannondale. What's more, you're likely to suffer from little depreciation should you sell the Cannondale on after 1) You and your stoker decide to upgrade, or 2) You and your stoker decide tandem cycling is not for you.

    IMO that Burley is overpriced, but it may take some searching to find a Cannondale. It will be worth the effort, however.
    Thanks I do want a Cannondale was thinking MT800 or MT1000 if I can find one local....
    I'm in SoCal I was thinking it should be easy to find one just not sure how long it will take.

    Now on the Burley would $500.00 be a good price or is that still too much I did contact this Guy and from what I got the frame size would be perfect.
    Thanks Mike

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    Depending on what you want from the bike, $500 may be worth it. Hard to say without component knowledge or bike condition.

    We started on the Burley road tandem and about five years later transitioned to off-road tandeming. We started that on a KHS "off-road" tandem, which was essentially their road tandem frame/gearing with flat bars and 2.1" tires. $600 with perhaps 25 miles on the bike. I spent $300 for a Marz DJ3 fork and another $100 for 8" mechanical disc brakes, $200 for a new front hub, Brake Therapy bracket, and some other smaller upgrades. That got us something we could take on the local trails to figure out if we liked tandeming off road. We did, and came across a half-price ECdM local to us. We were able to sell off the modified KHS and didn't lose too much money.

    You could do similar with the Burley. The hard-tail aspect of the KHS was a real speed limiter, but we hadn't bought a fancy Thudbuster rear suspension post and speed may not be an issue straight-away anyway. LOTS of happy Fandango owners, so full-suspension isn't a requirement for many happy off-road miles. The Burley (like the KHS) will feel pretty flexy off-road - both bikes are steel tubed. The CD will be aluminum, and if you can find one with a disc mount on the frame, much the better.

  8. #8
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    Ok here is a MT800 from Reno anybody have a idea on what year this is?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-mt800.jpg  


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    type in tandem in the classified ads here on Mtb forum there is a Brodie for $800 has some great parts might fit your needs well

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Ok here is a MT800 from Reno anybody have a idea on what year this is?
    Best you can do is research VintageCannondale.com.

    Cannondale for a long time had all previous bikes listed, but recently has removed them from their site.

    That Cannondale I believe is a 2003, Pretty much the last version of MTB frame design they offered. Disc capable if needed. Pretty much a typical Cannondale which should sell for a typical price of say $1000 to maybe a high of $1500 if the seller is lucky.

    Earlier frames had no rear disc mount 1998 and prior, the latest frames have a drop down rear dropout that lowers the entire bike, began around 2009 I think.

    Be aware when searching and shopping that sizing is important. You never posted your size of the captain and stoker, and this becomes important so you get a good fit. Without a good fit the bike will be more a novelty than used often.

    You may come accross some used IBIS's and other brands. Most would be fine, but consider braking has evolved a lot since the mid 90's and if the frame has a 1" steer tube, that is a challenge and possible safety concern for aggressive riding.

    Best of luck with it.

    PK

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by akexpress View Post
    type in tandem in the classified ads here on Mtb forum there is a Brodie for $800 has some great parts might fit your needs well
    Not bad just to far I do want something local shipping would be way to much.................

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Best you can do is research VintageCannondale.com.

    Cannondale for a long time had all previous bikes listed, but recently has removed them from their site.

    That Cannondale I believe is a 2003, Pretty much the last version of MTB frame design they offered. Disc capable if needed. Pretty much a typical Cannondale which should sell for a typical price of say $1000 to maybe a high of $1500 if the seller is lucky.

    Earlier frames had no rear disc mount 1998 and prior, the latest frames have a drop down rear dropout that lowers the entire bike, began around 2009 I think.

    Be aware when searching and shopping that sizing is important. You never posted your size of the captain and stoker, and this becomes important so you get a good fit. Without a good fit the bike will be more a novelty than used often.

    You may come accross some used IBIS's and other brands. Most would be fine, but consider braking has evolved a lot since the mid 90's and if the frame has a 1" steer tube, that is a challenge and possible safety concern for aggressive riding.

    Best of luck with it.

    PK
    Thanks for the link PK I need a M/S I'm 5'9" Wife 5'5"
    To be more clear the type of off road use I will be doing is nothing hardcore so FS won't be needed.
    In the past I have rode The Fully Loop and the Hills here in Whittier so a HT and Fork would be nice.........
    How is the C-Dale Fatty Fork?
    One thing I do like about the MT800 is it is disc ready

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Thanks for the link PK I need a M/S I'm 5'9" Wife 5'5"
    To be more clear the type of off road use I will be doing is nothing hardcore so FS won't be needed.
    In the past I have rode The Fully Loop and the Hills here in Whittier so a HT and Fork would be nice.........
    How is the C-Dale Fatty Fork?
    One thing I do like about the MT800 is it is disc ready
    At 5'9", you probably want a Large. My wife / stoker at 5'6" fit better on the Medium.

    FWIW, we had two Cannondales, an early style non disc 1998 MT3000, and a later style 2001 MT800.

    Our 98 being earlier had smaller proportions, it was a L/S. The front was fine, the back was to short front in top tube length.

    Our 2001 was an XL/M, it was big in the front and perfect in the back.

    I'd say go with a L/M for your sizes.

    PK

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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    At 5'9", you probably want a Large. My wife / stoker at 5'6" fit better on the Medium.

    FWIW, we had two Cannondales, an early style non disc 1998 MT3000, and a later style 2001 MT800.

    Our 98 being earlier had smaller proportions, it was a L/S. The front was fine, the back was to short front in top tube length.

    Our 2001 was an XL/M, it was big in the front and perfect in the back.

    I'd say go with a L/M for your sizes.

    PK
    Thanks PK my wife just told me she is 5'3" not 5'5" would you still say a L/M?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Thanks PK my wife just told me she is 5'3" not 5'5" would you still say a L/M?
    For us if my wife was 5'3" I would probably still go Medium since it is easier to make it smaller with the stoker stem going longer rather than the Captain sitting on top of the stoker bars.

    Consider also, the 99 and later Cannondales are a bit longer in true size vs letter size.

    As an example, 98 maybe lets say 23" for a large, whereas a 99 might be 23,5 for a large. This also happened on their single bikes as well in 99.

    PK

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    C'Dale sizing

    My stoker and I started on a Cannondale Mt3000 (1999) It is a M/S. I am 5' 10" she is 5'4" we rode it HARD for about 5 years. Eventually we got a Ventana as I realized that the M/S C'Dale was simply too small. We also have a C'Dale road bike in L/S that works better. At 5'9" you would end up running a pretty long stem (130mm) unless you are all leg. For the riding you describe, you could get away with it. I still use our M/S as a parent/child tandem. I can put in about 20 miles on it before my body complains about the size.

  17. #17
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    Thanks PK and Trails
    Anybody have the specs on the L/M and M/S I can't make out the numbers online.........

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    I don't have the numbers anymore. I would be glad to measure anything on the 1999 MT 3000 in my garage if you would like. My best guess is either a M/s or L/S. Your stoker could ride a medium as well if you found one of those first, but I think a small would fit better. If you plan on putting an aftermarket fork on the bike, take captain standover height into consideration. Here is an old shot of the M/S at Moab
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-p3300031.jpg  


  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    I don't have the numbers anymore. I would be glad to measure anything on the 1999 MT 3000 in my garage if you would like. My best guess is either a M/s or L/S. Your stoker could ride a medium as well if you found one of those first, but I think a small would fit better. If you plan on putting an aftermarket fork on the bike, take captain standover height into consideration. Here is an old shot of the M/S at Moab
    Sweet I do like the Yellow

  20. #20
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    Trails / PK a few more questions for you Guys
    I had the owner send me more pics of his MT800 it's a 2002 M/S my question is what size is the stock stem on these?
    I just checked my inseam and it's 30" no shoes I need to check my Wifes later today.
    Then I called C-Dale to get the specs on the frame and was told top tube was 22"long the stand over is 28.2 front and 26.5 rear.
    It has the stock Fatty and I know later I will change the fork out...........
    I'm just not sure about my upper body if it will fit HELP!!!!!!! lol.......
    The Bike is about 500 miles away just under 9 hours I really don't want to drive out their to find this bike don't fit me..........
    Thanks Guys
    Mike

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    Trails anymore pics of your MT3000 so I can see your seat height and all and if you can check out the numbers for me that would be great

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    I would guess that unless you are an active road rider and like your mountain bikes to have very low bars relative to the saddle, you might be happier with a Large. With Med you will probably need a pretty long, high-rise stem. Something like a 130mm with 20 degrees rise. With our M/S I have two sizing issues: 1) it is about 1" shorter in the reach than my other bikes, and that is with a 130mm stem. 2) the saddle is about 2-3" higher than the bars. This used to be less of a problem when I was younger - now it gets uncomfortable on longer rides.

    That said, you can buy stems pretty cheaply. And actually the stem on the one you are looking at is pretty long and tall, so it might work. You could ride this bike. I am taller than you and rode ours for about six years. You could get this one to "test the waters" then save up for a Fandango or a full suspension later.

  23. #23
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    Here's a few pics. The tandem is now our "kid bike" which we use for everything from commuting to tight singletrack.

    A few measurements:
    Standover Captain - 29" Stoker- 26.75"
    BB height 13"
    Top tube 21"
    reach (center of post to center of bars)Captain 26.5", Stoker 21" but very adjustable.
    Floor to top of saddle 41"
    Floor to top of bars 40" using a med rise 130mm stem and lo-rise riser bars.

    I could get the bars higher, but my wife (5'4") drives the bike sometimes and I don't want to get her way out of position, so we compromise.

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    It would help if I actually attached the pictures...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-251329_10150268516985799_670360798_8904397_2207555_n.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-p1010402.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-p1010401.jpg  


  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    I would guess that unless you are an active road rider and like your mountain bikes to have very low bars relative to the saddle, you might be happier with a Large. With Med you will probably need a pretty long, high-rise stem. Something like a 130mm with 20 degrees rise. With our M/S I have two sizing issues: 1) it is about 1" shorter in the reach than my other bikes, and that is with a 130mm stem. 2) the saddle is about 2-3" higher than the bars. This used to be less of a problem when I was younger - now it gets uncomfortable on longer rides.

    That said, you can buy stems pretty cheaply. And actually the stem on the one you are looking at is pretty long and tall, so it might work. You could ride this bike. I am taller than you and rode ours for about six years. You could get this one to "test the waters" then save up for a Fandango or a full suspension later.
    Sounds good your 5'10" and your inseam is? vs my 5'9" and a 30" inseam (no shoes)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    It would help if I actually attached the pictures...
    Wow nice ride so adding a fork will give me about a 29" stand over so that still sounds good..........

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    Here is another picture he sent me both rider's are 5'6" and he has his seat all the way down
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-22.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-mt800.jpg  


  28. #28
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    My inseam is about 31" and a bit. Now I am used to riding a tandem with no standover since our Ventana is at 31.5" due to fork choice. My fater-in-law rode this Cannondale with his wife for about4 years after we got a Ventana. He is about 5'8" and has shorter legs.. My Mother-in-law is about 5'7" and rode the size small stoker. She certainly could have used a Medium, but the Small worked.

  29. #29
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    From my saved Cannondale Catalogs

    2001 Cannondale, Mountain Tandem,

    Size M/S
    Capt TT (Horiz) =22.0"
    Capt SO at mid point = 28.5
    Stoker TT (Horiz)=28.1
    Stoker SO at Mid point 26.5

    Size L/S
    Capt TT = 23.0
    Capt SO = 30.3
    Stoker TT = 29.1
    Stoker SO = 27.5

    The 2004 Catalog

    Size L/S
    Capt TT = 23.0
    Capt SO = 30.0
    Stoker TT = 28.1
    Stoker SO = 26.5

    L/M
    Capt TT = 23.0
    Capt SO = 30.3
    Stoker TT = 29.1
    Stoker SO = 28.4

    My experience Cannondales, Tandems and bikes in general is one of I would rather a long TT with short stem than short TT with a long stem.

    Standover I never get worked up over, my day will happen, but so far so good.

    Make certain your stoker can fit without stuffing the bars under your butt.

    M/S size frames seem common, L/M much less common but are out there. L/S are pretty common also.

    PK

  30. #30
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    This one has many things you may desire on your bike.

    http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bik/2434005859.html

    Obviously not local and says he will consider offers.

    PK

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    My inseam is about 31" and a bit. Now I am used to riding a tandem with no standover since our Ventana is at 31.5" due to fork choice. My fater-in-law rode this Cannondale with his wife for about4 years after we got a Ventana. He is about 5'8" and has shorter legs.. My Mother-in-law is about 5'7" and rode the size small stoker. She certainly could have used a Medium, but the Small worked.
    Thanks sounds like it will fit for the most part what if I went with a Thomson lay back post if I needed more TT room??

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    This one has many things you may desire on your bike.

    http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bik/2434005859.html

    Obviously not local and says he will consider offers.

    PK
    That is nice just about $500 more then I want to spend right now + shipping what is the going price for a bike shop to pack one of these monsters?

    Ok I just sent a email off to the guy.........

  33. #33
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    A layback post will interfere with the stokers stem (you won't be able to raise it as far). Just pick a post with some setback, maybe .5-1" or so. It will put your butt closer to the stoker so there is a potential issue there as well.

  34. #34
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    Found My Large / Small MT800 Road Trip Coming Soon!!

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    Cool! Post pics when it is in!

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    Bump

  37. #37
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    http://www.ellsworthbikes.com/bikes/mountain/witness/



    No affiliation of any sort, just the coolest tandem I know of.

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    Cool but...

    Ellsworth makes beautiful tandems, BUT they only make one size. If it fits, great. If not, tough. Also (unless they have changed) they use the rear end from the "Truth" model which is a lightweight XC bike. Several folks have swapped out the rear with one from the "moment" model which would help. Also a bit over the OP's price range ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    Cool! Post pics when it is in!
    Picking her up Saturday will have pics on Sunday when I get back
    I guess now is a good time to ask about tires it has slicks on it now whats a good tire for hard pack and what size?

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    Update from Yuma AZ.......
    Picked up the MT800 size 20/16 and this thing is in top condition never been offroad has slicks on it now and from what I was told when the bike was picked up tires got switched to the slicks.
    This bike was on eBay for a day until I got the guy to agree that for the asking price of $750 that I would drive down to Tucson AZ to pick it up in person
    Here is a picture that was on eBay until I get home
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-cannondale.jpg  


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    Looks mint, and a great base! Have fun with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XC Mike View Post
    Update from Yuma AZ.......
    Picked up the MT800 size 20/16 and this thing is in top condition never been offroad has slicks on it now and from what I was told when the bike was picked up tires got switched to the slicks.
    This bike was on eBay for a day until I got the guy to agree that for the asking price of $750 that I would drive down to Tucson AZ to pick it up in person
    Here is a picture that was on eBay until I get home
    Nice grab!

    We have a '98 MT1000. The bottom is somewhat low (= pedal strikes, and dragging bottom over pretty much everything).
    Made some small upgrades to make it more trail-worthy (maybe this will give you some ideas):
    - Invested in a front disc brake (there is no simple rear disc brake mount on ours). The gang here helped me spec a Shimano 756 hub, Rhyno Lite rim (same as what was on it), and some 13/14 spokes, brass nips, and 203mm rotor with BB7 mechanical caliper (retained original lever). This has saved the day a few times as I had seen the V-brake melting one time prior and I remember the conditions. The disc doesn't care what the conditions are. DIY, that's ~$150 (dirt cheap in tandem world)
    - Ours had a different fork. We are now using a Surly Instigator which also adds some ground clearance and relaxes the steering, but it sounds like you're going for squish.
    - Smaller timing rings for more clearance. It had 38's(?), but now has Salsa 32's, or whatever the smallest size is that will fit on those cranks. (~$50)
    - Bigger tires! Nevegal 2.35 up front (that fork has room for a wayyy bigger tire), High Roller 2.35 out back (barely fits!) I also have a Maxxis Ignitor 2.3 to try on the back since the High Roller is just disappearing with only moderate use. (~$50-$80)
    - Our stoker's pogo post is pretty finicky. If it gets dirt in it, it doesn't work - goes down and stays down. A little extra grease usually fixes it for awhile.

    We didn't break the bank and our bike will go wherever we are willing to pedal it.

    Have fun!

    -F

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    Time for a few pics my Wife and I took our first short ride last night to figure this thing out and it Rocks!!!
    Still need to get the Team Work stuff down lol.........
    I did put a few things on it that I had sitting in the garage for years just wish I had a fork sitting around.
    Next thing I want to change out are both seats and I do have some WTB 2.2 tires coming from eBay this week.
    As for a fork and upgrading to disc maybe Tax Time if We are still having Fun
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn4770.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn4875.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn4877.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn4878.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Nice grab!

    We have a '98 MT1000. The bottom is somewhat low (= pedal strikes, and dragging bottom over pretty much everything).
    Made some small upgrades to make it more trail-worthy (maybe this will give you some ideas):
    - Invested in a front disc brake (there is no simple rear disc brake mount on ours). The gang here helped me spec a Shimano 756 hub, Rhyno Lite rim (same as what was on it), and some 13/14 spokes, brass nips, and 203mm rotor with BB7 mechanical caliper (retained original lever). This has saved the day a few times as I had seen the V-brake melting one time prior and I remember the conditions. The disc doesn't care what the conditions are. DIY, that's ~$150 (dirt cheap in tandem world)
    - Ours had a different fork. We are now using a Surly Instigator which also adds some ground clearance and relaxes the steering, but it sounds like you're going for squish.
    - Smaller timing rings for more clearance. It had 38's(?), but now has Salsa 32's, or whatever the smallest size is that will fit on those cranks. (~$50)
    - Bigger tires! Nevegal 2.35 up front (that fork has room for a wayyy bigger tire), High Roller 2.35 out back (barely fits!) I also have a Maxxis Ignitor 2.3 to try on the back since the High Roller is just disappearing with only moderate use. (~$50-$80)
    - Our stoker's pogo post is pretty finicky. If it gets dirt in it, it doesn't work - goes down and stays down. A little extra grease usually fixes it for awhile.

    We didn't break the bank and our bike will go wherever we are willing to pedal it.

    Have fun!

    -F
    Thanks for the info
    So if I go to smaller timing rings is it just for clearance will we spin to fast

  45. #45
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    The 34's will give more clearance, I doubt 32's will fit but maybe. One nice thing about the 38's are they are steel and can be hammered or wrench straightened several times...

    If that is a CODA saddle, god bless you that you survived that ancient torture to private parts.

    If you keep an eye open, you will possibly find a similar vintage Marzocchi quick release type fork for short money. Look for a double crown like a Jr T or better still a Super T. Keep the fork length reasonable and travel around 100mm.

    If it does not rain often I would just upgrade the brake pads and trash the rims while saving for an upgrade. Discs are nice but not a must have. Consider how many folks rode off-road tandems long before discs.

    You will want to install a 34 tooth middle.

    PK

    Save for a Thudbuster, well worth the $ for your stoker.

    Very good bike at a very good price.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    The 34's will give more clearance, I doubt 32's will fit but maybe. One nice thing about the 38's are they are steel and can be hammered or wrench straightened several times...

    If that is a CODA saddle, god bless you that you survived that ancient torture to private parts.

    If you keep an eye open, you will possibly find a similar vintage Marzocchi quick release type fork for short money. Look for a double crown like a Jr T or better still a Super T. Keep the fork length reasonable and travel around 100mm.

    If it does not rain often I would just upgrade the brake pads and trash the rims while saving for an upgrade. Discs are nice but not a must have. Consider how many folks rode off-road tandems long before discs.

    You will want to install a 34 tooth middle.

    PK

    Save for a Thudbuster, well worth the $ for your stoker.

    Very good bike at a very good price.
    Thanks PK for All your help and pm's I guess I got Lucky didn't take too long to find

    I did find a few forks on eBay watching them now I do like short money
    As far as the Disc yes we don't get that much rain in SoCal so I was thinking maybe just upgrading to XT or XTR and go with some Kool Stop pads??
    And yes my next upgrade is a Thudbuster.

    Last question for now.........From what I have seen in my short time of Tandems it looks like V brakes are not very popular because of the heat buildup and tubes blowing???
    Has anyone used the Stan's Tubeless system?
    I have used it on my 26 and 29er bikes and loved it
    Thanks

  47. #47
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    We skeptically started using disks over 10 years ago on road bikes. After that many years of experience, you couldnít give us rim brakes,, especially for a MTB. (minim of 203 rotors) We donít like riding in rain or mud, either.
    Arly a tandem Nerd, Who rides them, loves them, so we sell them. superiortandems.com

  48. #48
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    From what I have seen in my short time of Tandems it looks like V brakes are not very popular because of the heat buildup and tubes blowing???
    You can use thicker (thorn resistant, or jumping) tubes, to handle more heat. The penalty is more rotating weight. You can also use your brakes less to avoid the heat

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by JokerW View Post
    You can use thicker (thorn resistant, or jumping) tubes, to handle more heat. The penalty is more rotating weight. You can also use your brakes less to avoid the heat
    Sounds easy and cheap...........

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by JokerW View Post
    You can use thicker (thorn resistant, or jumping) tubes, to handle more heat. The penalty is more rotating weight. You can also use your brakes less to avoid the heat
    We try not to ride in the rain, but it doesn't stop us. That would be my main reason for discs. We had to drive 700 miles to find a trail that was big enough to actually build up real heat. But for those 2 somewhat rare exceptions, I wouldn't call V-brakes a concern. Besides, without disc brakes, I believe the hub flange spacing is wider = stronger wheel.

    -F

  51. #51
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    Lots of ideas

    XC Mike, you are getting lots of good ideas here. Here's my take:

    1) don't stress about melting tubes. We rode Magrua rim brakes for 5 years with no heat issues. This includes much riding in Moab, Winter Park, Brian Head, Fruita, etc. If you are concerned, you could add a drag brake to reduce some of the stress on the rims.

    2)Don't bother with the money on XT or XTR v-brake upgrade. The strongest v-brakes I've ever had were LX and Avid single digit. More expensive doesn't mean more power.

    3) get your bigger tires and your thudbuster, (and fork if you can find one) then start riding as hard as you want. You will either be perfectly happy with the bike or else you will find you want to do more/bigger things, in which case you will want a more capable bike.

    4) you could upgrade the front to disc brakes with a fork and new front wheel. But I would wait until you decide that what you have isn't enough.

    5) tubeless is fine on tandem, but don't run pressure as low as you would on a single bike. I have had a ghetto tubeless on teh rear of our bike for two years with no issues.

    Go Ride!

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    XC Mike, you are getting lots of good ideas here. Here's my take:

    1) don't stress about melting tubes. We rode Magrua rim brakes for 5 years with no heat issues. This includes much riding in Moab, Winter Park, Brian Head, Fruita, etc. If you are concerned, you could add a dragh brak to reduce some of the stress on the rims.

    2)Don't bother with the money on XT or XTR v-brake upgrade. The strongest v-brakes I've ever had were LX and Avid single digit. More expensive doesn't mean more power.

    3) get your bigger tires and your thudbuster, (and fork if you can find one) then start riding as hard as you want. You will either be perfectly happy with the bike or else you will find you want to do more/bigger things, in which case you will want a more capable bike.

    4) you could upgrade the front to disc brakes with a fork and new front wheel. But I would wait until you decide that what you have isn't enough.

    5) tubeless is fine on tandem, but don't run pressure as low as you would on a single bike. I have had a ghetto tubeless on teh rear of our bike for two years with no issues.

    Go Ride!
    Thanks Trails,
    Yesterday I found my old Easton EC70 mid riser and that made a big difference in feel the bar is about 2.5" wider over stock bars.
    With the tires coming this week I can get this thing off road
    Thudbuster is my next upgrade and some seats.....
    Got a nice used WTB Speed She for the Wife on eBay for Penny's still looking for a fork

  53. #53
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    My first choice is to find a Jr T but what 1999-2002 single crown fork can I go with???
    I want to stick with V brakes and the standard drop outs for now.
    The Team is 350 lbs

  54. #54
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    Quick update I love this Bike..............
    Now that I got the WTB 2.3's on this thing feels like it's unstoppable
    Here is 1 of 2 stokers that I have to ride with

    Now I was looking at CL and found this C-dale for sell and was thinking has anybody used a Judy DH before it sure would look good on my Rig
    I would love to find a JR T but not sure how long that will take to find one in good shape.
    I just want something I can get and use my V brakes and 9mm QR until I get more ride time and money before I do anything
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn4915.jpg  

    Looking For MTB Tandem-judy-dh.jpg  


  55. #55
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    I would do something like this:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/2011-MARZOCCHI-4...004#vi-content

    before trusting that Judy. I'll dig around and see what else is out there. See if you can find a Marz Dirt Jumper fork with vbrake bosses.

  56. #56
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    You do not want the Judy. You want a fork you can ride.

    One of the problems with a tandem fork is getting enough spring rate for the added weight. Flex is another big concern.

    The bike look great, the stoker is smiling, how bad can that be.

    PK

  57. #57
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    I'm not a fork expert by any means, but you could check this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MARZOCCHI-BOMBER...f#ht_500wt_949

    There may be other things you could get away with, but the v-brakes make it tough.

  58. #58
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    Maybe...

    http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/882881/ Not sure if it includes the wheel and brake, does it have the upper crown?

    or


    http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/884773/

    I don't know any of these sales and obviously they are not mine. The Ebay fork may be the best for now, unless that fork, wheel, brake can be gotten quickly.

    PK

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    I'm not a fork expert by any means, but you could check this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MARZOCCHI-BOMBER...f#ht_500wt_949

    There may be other things you could get away with, but the v-brakes make it tough.
    There it is, and less than $100.

    As for the Blue, it is easily removed.

    PK

  60. #60
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    Better pics of the fork/wheel/brake combo at:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MARZOCCHI-DIRT-M...ht_5761wt_1026

    I'ts definitely been used hard

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    Better pics of the fork/wheel/brake combo at:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MARZOCCHI-DIRT-M...ht_5761wt_1026

    I'ts definitely been used hard
    That's for a 24" wheel.
    Have fun!

  62. #62
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    hmmm... that would be less useful.

  63. #63
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    The Pinkbike add listed it as a dual crown and had no description or closeups. So yes then, strike that from a worthy find having seen the ebay add.

    PK

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    I'm not a fork expert by any means, but you could check this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/MARZOCCHI-BOMBER...f#ht_500wt_949

    There may be other things you could get away with, but the v-brakes make it tough.
    Thanks Guys just sent a email to see how long the steer tube on this is.....
    Paul love that pinkbike.com

  65. #65
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    What's Up?

    XC Mike,

    Where are you at in the possible fork hunt? I've been thinking about this a bit as my brother-in-law just converted a rigid MT800 tandem to a nice front suspension set-up. He got a Marz DJ 2 and is using a single bike disc wheel (for a while) with avid bb7 front brake. This is for a wife/daughter tandem as they have a Fandango 29 for father/son rides.

    I think you might be really crippling your choices by holding on to the v-brake front. You will end up with an older, probably inferior, fork. I know that $$$ is always a consideration, but be wary of being so careful with money that you end up with a less useful result. If you got a newer DJ now, you could keep it and have a good fork for a new frame or wheelset.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    XC Mike,

    Where are you at in the possible fork hunt? I've been thinking about this a bit as my brother-in-law just converted a rigid MT800 tandem to a nice front suspension set-up. He got a Marz DJ 2 and is using a single bike disc wheel (for a while) with avid bb7 front brake. This is for a wife/daughter tandem as they have a Fandango 29 for father/son rides.

    I think you might be really crippling your choices by holding on to the v-brake front. You will end up with an older, probably inferior, fork. I know that $$$ is always a consideration, but be wary of being so careful with money that you end up with a less useful result. If you got a newer DJ now, you could keep it and have a good fork for a new frame or wheelset.
    He is limiting his available choices. Thing is though, if he finds something it will be cheap.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  67. #67
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    Might contact this guy

    FOR SALE 07/15/11: ATC Racing TERREX 5 Tandem Forks. Including 9mm and 20mm fork ends, also adjuster for ride. Hardly used. $200.00
    Peter Berberian
    plberberian@comcast.net
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  68. #68
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    If I remember right you can get that to work with v-brakes with a new arch. It's a modular fork so it will work with about anything if you buy the right small parts. It can be a good fork, particularly if you have PMK work it into shape

  69. #69
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    The fork is listed as $200 asking price. It comes with both axle fitting, standard QR style and 20mm. The brake bridge should have the mounts for V brakes but may need posts.

    I suppose it would be good to ask if the 20mm also has the disc brake caliper mount included. It is a separate part and should be available reasonable if not.

    Even if the fork is left as is, it will be more compliant than a rigid fork.

    PK
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  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trails4Two View Post
    XC Mike,

    Where are you at in the possible fork hunt? I've been thinking about this a bit as my brother-in-law just converted a rigid MT800 tandem to a nice front suspension set-up. He got a Marz DJ 2 and is using a single bike disc wheel (for a while) with avid bb7 front brake. This is for a wife/daughter tandem as they have a Fandango 29 for father/son rides.

    I think you might be really crippling your choices by holding on to the v-brake front. You will end up with an older, probably inferior, fork. I know that $$$ is always a consideration, but be wary of being so careful with money that you end up with a less useful result. If you got a newer DJ now, you could keep it and have a good fork for a new frame or wheelset.
    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Might contact this guy

    FOR SALE 07/15/11: ATC Racing TERREX 5 Tandem Forks. Including 9mm and 20mm fork ends, also adjuster for ride. Hardly used. $200.00
    Peter Berberian
    plberberian@comcast.net
    Hey Guys
    Just got back from Vacation and money for a new fork is not looking good right now........
    I have been trying to find a older JR T so that I could use my wheels and v brakes until tax time
    I just don't want to dump lots of money into a older fork just to change it in a few more months.
    I would like to get wheels and a single crown fork with the 20mm for the type of XC riding I have been doing so far I think it would work fine.

    That ATC fork sounds good if things change in the next week or two I will send him a email to see if he still has it for the price you can't beat it.

    Now lets talk tubes lol...............
    My first real off road ride with this Rig and it ends with a flat not sure if it was just Bad Luck or what the worst part was pulling out my spare to find out it's a 29er from my last bike
    What PSI do you guys run?? I'm using WTB 2.3
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking For MTB Tandem-dscn5203.jpg  


  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    The fork is listed as $200 asking price. It comes with both axle fitting, standard QR style and 20mm. The brake bridge should have the mounts for V brakes but may need posts.

    I suppose it would be good to ask if the 20mm also has the disc brake caliper mount included. It is a separate part and should be available reasonable if not.

    Even if the fork is left as is, it will be more compliant than a rigid fork.

    PK
    This is a good deal I will send a email to see if I can get pictures from this Guy

  72. #72
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    Flats

    Great pic of the stoker/mechanic! Was it a pinch flat or a thorn/puncture? If a pinch flat, use more pressure: about 40 or so. If a puncture, got slime tubes or a good liner. Another upgrade solution would be to convert to tubeless. That would reduce both pinches and pokes.

  73. #73
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    Yup just a thorn I was thinking of going Stans but I will get a few more off road rides in before going that route....

  74. #74
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    Slime Tubes...we use them in our off-road tandems. Saves a lot of headaches since the tires roll a different line than a single bike. Sometimes well off the beaten path.

    Typically, new tubes and tires together. Removing the old Slime tubes often shows only a couple of patches but a lot of deposits of green blood.

    PK
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  75. #75
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    PK are you using the Lite Tubes or just the Sealant?
    from what I see on the web page the biggest tube they have is a 26x2.150 will that work ok with a 2.3 or Bigger my guess it would be ok

  76. #76
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    Reading the box...26 x 1.75 / 2.125 Slime presta tubes, stuffed into Panaracer Rampage 26 x 2.35 tires on Sun Ryhno lite rims. Work fine for us.

    Also, before installing them, make certain the valve assemblies are tight in the stem.

    PK
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  77. #77
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    Are there any tandems out there made by Specialized?

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