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Thread: Grooved Freehub

  1. #1
    J&L
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    Grooved Freehub

    Yesterday, just bent the #3 sprocket on the cassette. A bad shift while climbing a steep hill. So I pulled off the cassette, with difficulty, and found the free hub grooved by the sprockets. The worst was the #4 position. The cassette is a Shimano HG61 12-36 9sp with a Hadley hub. My first thought was to simply replace the cassette, but I'm thinking the grooving will only get worse and eventually really damage the hub. Thoughts as to how to proceed, I do like the 36t granny gear.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grooved Freehub-p5300107-compressed.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Is that the stainless or the Ti freehub? You can always just replace the freehub if it bothers you. I'd just knock the high points down with a file. As long as the cassette doesn't have play it'll be fine. Keep running it until it fails or switch to a different style of cassette and lose your 36t.

  3. #3
    PMK
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    At a minimum, as mentioned file the raised portions and continue on as you await part if you decide to replace them.

    In a crunch we have straightened the bent sprocket by carefully working it with a wide contact surface tool. Expect though, to replace it. maybe it's folded beyond repair already.

    FWIW, our ECDM had an aluminum freehub body, that died a very quick death off-road. We now pay a weight cost and run steel freehubs on all of our tandems to minimize this problem. Even these get notched to some extent.

    PK

  4. #4
    J&L
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    Looks like it is titanium, although it is the 40 spoke "tandem" version.

    Looks like we will just keep going till it fails, or most likely cannot remove the cassette when it needs replacing.

  5. #5
    MTB Tandem Nut
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    The cassette body should be steel. Most cassette bodies notch to some extent when used with the solid cog cassettes, because the cassette cogs flex independently of each other. As noted above, file down the notches and keep riding it. At some point in the future you may need to replace the cassette body only due to the notching, but it seems that they only notch to a certain extent, and then don't really get any worse. That's probably related to the limit of flex allowed by the cassette assembly.
    An alloy cassette body, found on higher end cassettes, will not do that, but if you bent a solid cog cassette ring, you'll certainly bend or break the rivets on a carrier style cassette.
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  6. #6
    PMK
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    J&L, fwiw, it does take practice and focus. O, plus often I call out for a quick burst, lightened pedal effort during the shift, and then continue with the efforts.

    While riding AORTA, we noticed many broken chains and shifts under big efforts. The terrain often induced this. After you bend a couple more cassettes, and yes I still often worry about us doing it again at times too, you two will have it figured out and maintain the speed that will rip your fender off.

    PK

  7. #7
    J&L
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    Alex - I'm assuming you mean "freehub assembly"? Interestingly enough, it has the titanium color, the owners manual does indicate a 36 tooth 3 pawl titanium part (H501505) and a 72 tooth 4 pawl (H501510). I count 36 clicks per revolution on ours. A web search for Hadley parts seems to turn up only a stainless 36 tooth and titanium 72. Maybe they had some manufacturing change recently?

  8. #8
    J&L
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    PMK - Practice and coordination, it was really lacking on that shift. It was a rather steep uphill preceded by an equally steep downhill. And long enough that momentum only got us part way up the other side.

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    Fotograf ślubny kraków

    Witam
    Jestem tu nowy i chciałem się przywitać a także zapytać was o zdanie na temat tej strony Fotograf ślubny kraków
    Waszym zdaniem warto zlecić budowę takiej strony?
    Będę zobowaiązany za wszystkie podpowiedzi.
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