Page 16 of 16 FirstFirst ... 6 12 13 14 15 16
Results 376 to 392 of 392

Thread: The ECDM thread

  1. #376
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522
    Received the rear wheel back from CK HQ. Looks like this time they replaced the axle as well as another large drive side bearing. Looking good on time and weather for lots of riding during the extended Turkey week/ends. Black Friday ain't got nuthin' on brown singletrack.

  2. #377
    PMK
    PMK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,243
    As December 13 rolls in, sad to see many parts of the US getting hit with snow or ice.

    On a flip side, this is a fun cool time of year for us, so the ECDM logged some more miles on 12/8.

    If anyone needs to break the winter and has cycling plans for some off-road down south, let us know and we will see about making something happen.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  3. #378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522
    Guess what's making noise again?

  4. #379
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522
    Quote Originally Posted by Okayfine View Post
    Guess what's making noise again?
    So, third time is the charm. I guess. Last eight months has seen our tandem out of action for 2.5 months due to our CK hub issue. CK had our wheel again and warrantied the hub, but didn't build it. Since they kept on about the spoke tension, I figured they'd have used this to set it up the way they wanted it. Continue to be disappointed in how little information CK passes along (cause, fixes, etc.). Makes it hard to avoid a repeat if I don't know what they think was the original cause.

    As it is, the wheel is off at our builder's. Taking the additional downtime to get some spring maintenance done on the bike. New rear pads, new drive chain, new rear tire, might even be time for a rear shock seal kit. Past time for a fork oil change and seals. Everything else looks good for the moment, but I'll need to get some Middleburn sync rings sooner than later.

  5. #380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    7
    Our brief 2-year report:

    ECDM 29er
    Fork: Fox 34 Talas 110
    Drivetrain: Middleburn cranks, XTR F/R derailleurs & shifters
    Brakes: XTR F/R levers & calipers, XT 203mm rotors
    Wheels: King hubs 32H to Stan's Flow rims - hand built by my stoker
    Tires: Specialized FastTrak Control F/R 40 PSI tubeless

    Our tandem rides are limited to longer "gravel grinder" events about 4 times per year. The fork works well for these courses, which include some pretty rough double track but no technically difficult trail. We have had no problems with the wheels. The tires generally perform nicely on the gravel, though we've suffered a slice or two.

    Two issues noted:
    1. The Middleburn chainrings did not work well with the XTR derailleur and Shimano chain. Lorinda replaced the big ring with a DynaSys ring (matching BCD) and the ramps & pins perform much better. Shifting is great now.
    2. Rear braking is spongier than I'd like, though not inadequate. She's improved this by intermittently bleeding the brakes but the issue persists. She thinks this may be a factor of hose length. Since her original bike build, Shimano has released new brake hose that may take care of the issue but she hasn't had time to install it. We had planned to test it out at Kanza, but probably won't make it this year.


  6. #381
    PMK
    PMK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,243
    Quote Originally Posted by ycookmd View Post
    Our brief 2-year report:

    ECDM 29er
    Fork: Fox 34 Talas 110
    Drivetrain: Middleburn cranks, XTR F/R derailleurs & shifters
    Brakes: XTR F/R levers & calipers, XT 203mm rotors
    Wheels: King hubs 32H to Stan's Flow rims - hand built by my stoker
    Tires: Specialized FastTrak Control F/R 40 PSI tubeless

    Our tandem rides are limited to longer "gravel grinder" events about 4 times per year. The fork works well for these courses, which include some pretty rough double track but no technically difficult trail. We have had no problems with the wheels. The tires generally perform nicely on the gravel, though we've suffered a slice or two.

    Two issues noted:
    1. The Middleburn chainrings did not work well with the XTR derailleur and Shimano chain. Lorinda replaced the big ring with a DynaSys ring (matching BCD) and the ramps & pins perform much better. Shifting is great now.
    2. Rear braking is spongier than I'd like, though not inadequate. She's improved this by intermittently bleeding the brakes but the issue persists. She thinks this may be a factor of hose length. Since her original bike build, Shimano has released new brake hose that may take care of the issue but she hasn't had time to install it. We had planned to test it out at Kanza, but probably won't make it this year.

    In regards to the brakes, yes it could be the hose is soft and expanding when pressure is applied. A simple addition to the bleed process is to degas the fluid prior to bleeding. Take a strong glass jar with a tight sealed lid. Mason type jar can work. Put the brake fluid inside. Then close the lid and apply 28" or more vacuum to the jars interior. Let it sit under vacuum for several minutes. This will remove micro bubbles from the fluid and may firm the system.

    Again, it may be the hose, but this is easy. Plus if you change the hose, the degas method can be used then also.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  7. #382
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    263
    Paul, that's good info. For the home mechanic, how woul you go about applying vacuum to the mason jar?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  8. #383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522

  9. #384
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    263
    I've got a mityvac but can't think of how to use it to pressurize a mason jar....

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  10. #385
    PMK
    PMK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Okayfine View Post
    exactly

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  11. #386
    PMK
    PMK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,243
    Quote Originally Posted by mhopton View Post
    I've got a mityvac but can't think of how to use it to pressurize a mason jar....

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Small hole in the top, then use the suction cup attachment. You will be pulling vacuum, not pressure. Then use the degassed fluid in the brake system. If possible, vacuum bleed the brake system.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  12. #387
    K&K
    Reputation: ki5ka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    217
    brilliant Paul...

  13. #388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522
    Different versions of the Mityvac will allow pressure as well, but as Paul indicated, you'll just be pulling vacuum.

  14. #389
    mtbr member
    Reputation: switchbacktrog's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    30
    Fitting a braided rear hose fixed my spongie rear brake.

  15. #390
    PMK
    PMK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    2,243
    Quote Originally Posted by switchbacktrog View Post
    Fitting a braided rear hose fixed my spongie rear brake.
    Agree 100%, however most of the better brakes have good quality hoses as oem. FWIW, when we got our ECDM, it had Magura brakes front and rear. They came with braided stainless hoses. Others had mentioned that the brakes often were soft and vague. I totally purged the existing fluid. The replacement fluid was degassed and bled into the brake system. With the large rotor on the front at 210mm and smaller rear rotor at 185(?)mm, the bike had no issues stopping after a proper bleed.

    Some people may not realize that this is also how I bleed the clutch on my KTM250exc, but also the rear shock is bleed under vacuum. It is pretty crazy how much air as micro bubbles is in fluid that you can not see.

    Yes a better hose is always best, possibly, when the new hose was installed, the bleed with fresh fluid became a factor also.

    If you run hydraulic brakes, you might consider bleeding the rear often and the front with the rear or every other rear bleed. A fresh bleed and new fluid is important for heavily used brakes.

    PK
    Reps! We don't need no stickin' reps!

  16. #391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    263
    While I didn't degas the fluid, I did have some sponginess in my Hope brakes. The Hopes use DOT 5.1 fluid, which turned out to be somewhat difficult to find - even the local moto shops didn't carry it. The Hopes bled just like a traditional car system; take off the cover of the master cylinder, fill, squeeze lever 5 times and hold tight, crack the nipple at the caliper briefly and retighten before introducing air in the caliper. Repeat until you're satisfied and at all costs don't let the master cylinder get too low on fluid.

    For the rear, I completely flushed the system with fresh fluid - I was amazed at the color and amount of dirt in the system. There's obviously a lot of heat at the caliper that degrades the fluid, etc.

    With cleaned, lubed calipers, fresh sintered pads and cleaned rotors, I do believe the system is better than when new as there was always the requirement to "pump up" the brakes when starting a ride. No longer is that needed.



    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  17. #392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    522
    Been putting some decent miles on the Bigfoot recently. Yesterday we tried a trail we've avoided for a while due to poor trail conditions. Guadalasco is a single track trail with 9 switchbacks over a little less than 3 miles of climbing. Number 10 on the left on this map:

    Point Mugu State Park Trail Map and Descriptions

    Over the years we've gone from clearing some of the switchbacks to clearing all of them, depending on the trail conditions. Gave it another shot yesterday and there's been a lot of nice trailwork done. We cleared all the switches, though not without some effort. Our bike ran great; we haven't had any issues with anything since dealing with the rear hub earlier this year.

    Summer maintenance is almost here. Going to need to look at the fork at some point, brake pads are getting a bit thin, etc.

Page 16 of 16 FirstFirst ... 6 12 13 14 15 16

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •