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  1. #1
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    Anybody run continuous derailer housing on a MTB Tandem

    Hi,
    I Just discovered this forum trying to figure this out. I recently bought a used 2001 Ventana ECDM and replaced the rear V-brake with an Avid BB7. I decided after much thought and searching through forums to run a continuous brake cable housing to the rear using a Jagwire Switch cable and housing kit. I figured most new bikes are set up for hydraulic lines anyway so I'll be modernizing it. By the way, the kit had enough housing and cable to do continuous housing to the rear and front and had a tandem length rear cable, very nice! So far I am very happy with the way it feels.

    Now I am thinking of doing this for the front and rear derailer housings. I know people have done this on single bikes with good results but has anyone done this with a tandem? Will the longer runs create too much friction (especially the rear)? I know I will have to use zip ties or velcro straps to support the housing in places but aside from the asthetics, will it function well? I know that once I drill out the housing stops there will be no turning back so I want some feedback from people who have tried this on a tandem.

    I know that I could always use some type of sealed system but this seams simpler and cheaper. If no one has experience with this I will just try zip ties without the drilling as a trial run first. Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
    PMK
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    Personally, unless I always rode in slop I would not do it.

    In regards to drilling out the frame cable stops, don't. Leave yourself the option and either use tie wraps, or find some of the early brake hose holders the secured to those frame cable stops but would parallel them and hold a brake hose or full cable.

    PK

  3. #3
    MTB Tandem Nut
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    Over the years I've built them both ways. Ventana frames used to have some stops that allowed either option, and Fandango frames currently have them now. The only time I received any specific feedback was when we did so for customers in very muddy areas (the UK comes to mind). In those cases, it was definitely a better setup overall.
    Since most of the runs of housing either way are where the bends are already, I don't think adding full housing on the straight runs is going to make much difference in shifting performance.
    But I have to agree with PMK; I would NOT drill a frame out for it on the shift cables. That's a pretty expensive thing to undo, for not a lot of gain in performance or longevity.
    MTB Tandems Inc.
    678-445-0711
    www.MTBTandems.com

  4. #4
    "the big red train"
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    I would agree with not drilling out the cable stops. We have a same model year ECDM and we have been running it set up with the standard housing set-up with no problems. The shifting is crisp and clean.
    Are you having shifting issues that would warrent the change to the full length housing?

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input. I've decided to not drill out the stops and will be trying out some Jagwire ripcord housing to see how that works out. I installed Jagwire Switch brake housing and cable on it and I really like how the brakes feel.

    We do a lot of muddy riding this time of year so keeping the dirt out is important and I've been having sluggish shifting issues. The cables and housing are probably original since the original owner said he only put about 250 miles on it and look like cheap housings with no sealing. The only reason I contemplated continuous housing for the shifting is from reading some posts of people doing it on their single bikes. Also, my wife has a size xxsmall Titus Racer X with cable stops on the bottom of the top tube that I've been contemplating drilling out. The length of exposed cable on that is only 3" for the three cables so it's not really making a difference friction-wise, just allowing dirt to get in. I attached a picture to show you what I mean. As you can see from the picture, I've already attached continuous housing for the shifters with zip ties just to test it out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anybody run continuous derailer housing on a MTB Tandem-titus-cable-stops.jpg  


  6. #6
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    best of both worlds

    If you are concerned about mud, you can run Gore or Nokon housing with a liner, this keeps dirt out the same as full housing but keeps your shifting performance up. Full housing on a tandem is asking for poor shifting.
    I had to go to Nokon housing on my rear der. of my XL 29er which runs full housing, too much housing compression otherwise.

  7. #7
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    Just an update. I have been using the Jagwire ripcord derailleur cable and housing with excellent results. It seems to keep the mud out without adding friction. Thanks to everyone for their advice. I'm glad I didn't drill out the cable stops.

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