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Thread: Surly Troll

  1. #801
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    Just got my new Troll. In eggplant. It is awesomely, well, purple! Going to build it up as a commuter/kid hauler/grocery getter/mountain bike. And building it with gears. Going to have 20 of 'em. For now. Building with a mix of old and new parts. Should be fun. Supposed to snow tomorrow, might be able to start building tomorrow. I did get the shop to press-in the head set. Step 1, done!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-img_0717.jpg  

    Surly Troll-img_0718.jpg  

    Surly Troll-img_0719.jpg  


  2. #802
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    ^ Purple and gold looks awesome. There really needs to be more purple bikes.

    Nevegals are great snow tires

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8116909049/" title="Surly Troll 650b by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8116909049_13a23d94bc_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Surly Troll 650b"></a>

  3. #803
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    Thar she blows

    Sunday on the old railway bed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-1-w-2.jpg  

    En la tierra de los ciegos, un hombre tuerto es rey.

  4. #804
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    "There really needs to be more purple bikes."
    Especially if you are a Washington Huskies Fan.
    Please support "Sharing the PCT"
    http://www.sharingthepct.org

  5. #805
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    If you are going to put a 2.7 tire on the back it w ill fit no problem however,
    you have to move the wheel to the middle or end of the horizontal drop outs for it to fit.
    If you do that, then, you may have to add a link or two to your chain, and you will have slide
    your disc brakes back as well. At this point a surly tuggnot is considered a valuable addition and it
    is probably better to do the bolt conversion kit at this point as well.
    I would stay with a 2.5 tire on the back of your troll and no more than that.

    You can add a 3.0 tire on the front however, you may also want to add surly pugsley forks.
    I would stay with the 2.5 tire on the front as well.

    2.5 on the back and front.
    Keep it simple and uncomplicated.

    Now, its a toss up between 45 Nrth Acerwelder 2.1 winter tires with 168 aluminum studs with
    a carbide tip or Shwalabe Marathon winter tire 2.35.
    I will probably go with the 2.35 just because the stock tires are 2.3.

    Once again, keep it simple and uncomplicated.
    I learning as I go along.
    It's taking a lot of time and money.

    i hope this is helpful

  6. #806
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    [QUOTE=T-roll;9825484]Sunday on the old railway bed.

    This is a picture perfect post card.
    You need a Troll to get around.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Celt View Post
    I've even read about LHT to Troll converts, stating that the Troll simply does both tasks, road touring and off road touring, very well - while having all the various mounts needed.
    This year i was driving my Troll for more than 8 months non-stop (Karakoram Highway, Patagonia, Scandinavia) and I would say the following: if you plan to stick to paved roads only, by choosing another bike you might win a lot. Some years ago I had CX Bianchi Axis for lightweight asphalt touring,and -- not surprisingly -- it behaved way better than Troll.

    Nowadays I do dislike pavements when going on any kind of gravel|mountain road, I really enjoy driving Troll. Troll is fine with occasional asphalt (say, not more than 50%).

  8. #808
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    @ache do have any pics from that tour? Sounds amazing!

  9. #809
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    Troll Bridge

    Bike Packin' weekend.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-bpack-copy.jpg  

    En la tierra de los ciegos, un hombre tuerto es rey.

  10. #810
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    When my first Surly LHT was lost in 2010, I replaced it with a Troll. I used the Troll to ride the Alaska and the Pacific Coast in the Summer of 2010. Here's a few pictures of the Troll in action.

    I am not sold on the Troll as a touring bike and during the tour ordered another LHT frame (Deluxe!) to build as a touring bike. IMHO the troll is a better commuter, exploration, and short term adventure bike. It carries bags okay; but nothing like the LHT.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-imgp1984.jpg  

    Surly Troll-imgp1986.jpg  

    Surly Troll-imgp2046.jpg  

    Surly Troll-imgp2081.jpg  


  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwv View Post
    After 3 stems and about 5 sets or bars I think I am done tinkering......maybe.
    How do you like your power grips?

  12. #812
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    whew...that was close

    Got notice last Wednesday that 18" black was finally in stock. Procrastinated a day or two and you guys were sucking them up.

    Thanks for leaving me one!
    Linux is for those who hate Microsoft, BSD is for those who love UNIX.

  13. #813
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    Troll vs. random All Mountain Hardtail

    Thanks for showing your nice builds!
    And sorry if this should be posted in a separate thread but I guess it could be of interest to anyone considering a Troll.
    I´v been thinking about getting a frame since I could use some old stuff to cut the cost. V-brakes for example and a nice single speed wheelset which don´t have disc brakes.
    If I should consider a completely new bike I would probably look at an All Mountain Hardtail like On-One 456, Ragley Piglet, or similar.
    So my question; what will I loose by choosing a Troll instead?
    Fork travel, maybe some weight?
    Anything else?
    What are you troll owners using you bike for?
    I´m not really interested in the post-apocalyptic sturdiness or the touring options I´ve read about.
    I just want something fun for the tuesday evening trail ride and the weekend all day (maybe two days) mountain tour.

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by vargen View Post
    What are you troll owners using you bike for?
    I´m not really interested in the post-apocalyptic sturdiness or the touring options I´ve read about.
    I just want something fun for the tuesday evening trail ride and the weekend all day (maybe two days) mountain tour.

    It's my only bike right now, so it's my commuter, and when I put knobbies on it it becomes my mountain bike (that's the only change I need to make). I also have gone on a couple overnight bikepacking/touring trips with it, and plan to ride across the country hopefully this next summer, on a mixed on and off-road tour.

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by vargen View Post
    Thanks for showing your nice builds!
    If I should consider a completely new bike I would probably look at an All Mountain Hardtail like On-One 456, Ragley Piglet, or similar.
    So my question; what will I loose by choosing a Troll instead?
    Fork travel, maybe some weight?
    Anything else?
    What are you troll owners using you bike for?
    I´m not really interested in the post-apocalyptic sturdiness or the touring options I´ve read about.
    I just want something fun for the tuesday evening trail ride and the weekend all day (maybe two days) mountain tour.
    Basically the major difference is the Troll will give you versatility unmatched by pretty much any other frame in the world. Run it as a singlespeed with v-brakes for now and upgrade to discs and run gears later. Use it for basically anything.

    However the Troll will fall short on aggressive riding because it's got 'classic' MTB geometry. An AM hardtail would be considerably slacker which is huge when you're, well, shredding the gnar. I would crash almost constantly trying to ride a Troll on most of the trails I ride where a 68 degree headtube angle is considered really steep.

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason300b View Post
    Just got my new Troll...
    Let's see some progress

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    Basically the major difference is the Troll will give you versatility unmatched by pretty much any other frame in the world. Run it as a singlespeed with v-brakes for now and upgrade to discs and run gears later. Use it for basically anything.

    However the Troll will fall short on aggressive riding because it's got 'classic' MTB geometry. An AM hardtail would be considerably slacker which is huge when you're, well, shredding the gnar. I would crash almost constantly trying to ride a Troll on most of the trails I ride where a 68 degree headtube angle is considered really steep.
    Thanks!

    Exactly the kind of answer I needed.

  18. #818
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    Good job! Troll - built

    Thanks for all the pictures from the other users, Just built.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-img_5282.jpg  


  19. #819
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    Can't say a bad thing about it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-restwhenyoudietroll.jpg  


  20. #820
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    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8221051882/" title="Winter City Riding by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8338/8221051882_0cd5ddff7e_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Winter City Riding"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8219972039/" title="Winter City Riding by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8219972039_0de0e958c3_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Winter City Riding"></a>

  21. #821
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    Posted my flat bar build up above, switched to drops for shits and actually love it. A super sluggish bike, no doubt, but extremely comfortable. Took it for a 25 mile spin up some serious climbs yesterday, and while I was a bit behind my buddies, I was in no way fatigued at the end. I am building this bike to ride down to South America in the Summer and I think that it is going to do the job wonderfully.

    In terms of fit- I am 5 foot 11 and a half-ish, with a 32 inch inseam and a long torso. I really like an upright, stable feel to my bikes. This is an 18" frameset.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-img-20121202-00622.jpg  


  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAGI410 View Post
    I'm diggin my new Troll
    I dislike the new purple color, but with those white rims, that actually looks attractive to me
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  23. #823
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    Just got my purple troll and whilst I was staring at the dropouts I couldn't help but wonder, how much of a pain in the ass is it to remove the rear wheel with a full coverage fender installed?

  24. #824
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    I was running fenders on mine for a while, but right now I'm too lazy to put them on and off every time I want to switch from MTB mode to commuting mode, so I just suck up the rain-splash when the weather's bad on the way to work.

    To answer your questions, it's definitely more annoying than without the fender, but it's doable.

  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew69 View Post
    Just got my purple troll and whilst I was staring at the dropouts I couldn't help but wonder, how much of a pain in the ass is it to remove the rear wheel with a full coverage fender installed?
    Worst case you just unscrew the two M5 screws supporting the back section. But it's a flexible section so it's not bad, unlike dropouts like on the CC where you need to have clearance at the BB area or the wheel physically won't come off.

  26. #826
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    help picking a shorter stem??

    Hi everyone!

    I just got a stock Surly Troll about 4 months ago and I love this bike! It is an 18'' frame, I'm 5'9 with a 31 inch inseam. I'm using Ergon grips on the Surly Open bars.

    I really like the Surly Open Bar, it is very comfortable for my wrists. But I feel that the handlebars could be 1'' closer to me for ultimate comfort (my shoulders and mid back hurt after about 20 miles of riding).

    But there seems to be very little 25.4 stems on the market that would allow me to continue using the Open Bars.

    The uses for this bike are

    1. Daily commuter 15 miles a day.
    2. A 1500 mile tour next summer.

  27. #827
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    Soma and Velo Orange both make 25.4 stems in a variety of lengths and angles.
    All good expeditions should be simple in concept, difficult in their execution and satisfying to remember--Alastair Humphreys

  28. #828
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    Dimension, owned by QBP, who also owns Surly, makes all lengths and angles stems in 25.4 as well...cheap too.

  29. #829
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    I used a Dimension +17, 90mm, 25.4" stem on my Troll with the Open Bar all summer. The most comfortable I have ever been on a bike. Good stuff for very little money just like babu said.

  30. #830
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    There are also clips out there designed for front fenders that allow the fender stay to pop out in case something gets jammed in there. You can use these as a quick release on the rear as well.

    Like these.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drew69 View Post
    Just got my purple troll and whilst I was staring at the dropouts I couldn't help but wonder, how much of a pain in the ass is it to remove the rear wheel with a full coverage fender installed?

  31. #831
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    For stems.... If you gotta have the high zoot stems you could get the 31.8's and run the shims/adapters for 31.8 to 25.4. I had a 31.8 stem laying around and it was cheaper for me to buy the shim.

  32. #832
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    Thomson no longer list it on their website, but you used to be able to get 25.4 mm stems from them. I know, because I bought one in May, and it's still listed on Amazon. They have a variety of sizes.

    RE: The dimension stems, the only original part on my old bike when I gave it away after breaking everything on the bike was the Dimension stem, so I can give them a thumbs up

  33. #833
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    Looking for frame sizing advice - I'm 5'9" with ~31 inch cycling inseam. I was originally going to purchase the 16" but it seems many riders in the 5'6" range are using that size...
    I also notice that happycyclist above is my same proportions and is looking to get the bars 1" closer so now I'm confused.

    Competitive Cyclist fit calculator has me on anywhere between 22.9-23.8 effective top tube and it looks like the 18" Troll is 23.5..

    I will be transferring the components from my current Fuji Tahoe and that will include a 100mm stem.

    Any additional thoughts from somebody in my range?

    Thank you!

  34. #834
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    I'm the same size and 18" fits better, you may need to drop to an 80mm stem but that's cheap.

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    I'm the same size and 18" fits better, you may need to drop to an 80mm stem but that's cheap.
    Thanks for that! The more I have read in this thread it looks like the 18 will work well. I am more used to sizing road bikes with drop bars so I was a little confused for a while.

    I also remembered I do have a spare 80mm stem so I'll give that a shot when the time comes.

  36. #836
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    I'm 5'8" with a short torso so ride the 16". I'm probably the limit for that size, taller than me with a normal porportions I'd say 18" also.

  37. #837
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    ^^ thanks Saddle Up.

    I also have an additional question regarding ride characteristics - one frustration I have had with the Tahoe is the feeling of having a high center of gravity while riding it. I have read other Fuji Tahoe riders reporting something similar.

    Is there any hint of what I describe with the Troll?

    I have an old '91 ParkPre mountain bike that rides much differently than the Tahoe so I guess I'm trying to replicate that ride with the addition of the modern frame and components of the Troll.

  38. #838
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    I'm 5'10" and riding an 18" Troll (well, was thanks to a shoulder injury...) with a 100mm stem. The ride feels (to me) very "balanced" with the center of gravity just in the right spot for cruising and technical riding. It reacts very well to being put through its paces and riding aggressivily in the woods. I've also got a 3" wide tire up front and a 2.7" in the rear that helps it claw up anything at all.
    Alea Jacta Est

  39. #839
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    I've never felt like the Troll has a high COG, the bottom bracket is quite low. As bbbr said and others can attest the Troll has a balanced neutral ride.

  40. #840
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    Thank you for the responses

  41. #841
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    My Troll on Tour

    Here are some pics and a link to the build list:

    Building an apocalypse-proof touring bike – Pedaling Nowhere



    Also, wife's and buddy's Trolls in Mexico:

    -------------------------------------------------
    bikepacking.com

  42. #842
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    I have to admit, I have seller's remorse for my Troll. That doesn't happen very often. If anyone has a 20" frame banging around...

  43. #843
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    salsa anything cages on troll frame

    has anybody tried fitting the salsa anything cages on the frame instead of the fork?

  44. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by tweezerGlint View Post
    Here are some pics and a link to the build list:....
    That's a great looking bike. Nice job.

  45. #845
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    Thank you everybody for the responses. I have ordered an 18" black Troll frame.

  46. #846
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    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8291146651/" title="Calgary Skyline by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8222/8291146651_c1d9d45173_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Calgary Skyline"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8291144495/" title="Calgary Skyline by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8504/8291144495_cd50c59d1a_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Calgary Skyline"></a>

  47. #847
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    It turns out the place I ordered the frame from does not actually have them in stock. After calling around and searching the net it seems these Troll frames are pretty scarce right now and won't be available until March.

    Anybody know where I can get an 18" Troll frameset (preferably in black)?

  48. #848
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    The Surly site says that the Troll has "ample clearance for 28/38/50t mountain-triple chainrings" and then lists the clearance as 24/36/48t in the frame details.

    It isn't clear to me if these measurements are taken from the 47mm chainline or the 50mm.

    Can any Trollers coment on the chainring clearance for the following chainlines:

    47mm

    50mm

    -Thanks.

  49. #849
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    Question about a front derailleur on a Troll frame:
    I've just received a 20" frame which I need to build up. I need to choose between a "high clamp" or "low clamp" derailleur.
    I see that Surly supply built bikes with a FD-M590 (low clamp). Looking at the photos of everyone's builds I can see that plenty of people are using high clamp derailleurs.
    Is there any performance difference? A high clamp seems to sit between the two bottle cage screws. Does it prevent a bottle cage from been installed?

    Thank you to everyone for posting photos of their builds. It's proved an invaluable resource.

  50. #850
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    If you use a derailer that clamps between the bottle braze ons, you can use two presta valver nuts on each bolt to space out the bottle cage. Works like a charm!

    Quote Originally Posted by thesloth View Post
    A high clamp seems to sit between the two bottle cage screws. Does it prevent a bottle cage from been installed?

  51. #851
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    With Specialized Rib cages, no spacer is needed.
    Last edited by Saddle Up; 01-09-2013 at 08:11 AM.

  52. #852
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    Hi SaddleUp;
    If you plan on riding through all that white stuff what tires do you have on?

    I just put some Kenda Klondike studded tires on my troll, ... 1.95 wide.
    They have a lot of studs and supposedly cut through the snow better than a 2.1mm wide tire.

    I also put on some keyless anti threft ZEFAL QR's skewers.
    The only way they unlock is if the bike is turned up side down or on a 90 degree angle.

    This city slicker is riding with a lot more confidence now.
    The Kenda's are amazing.

  53. #853
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    Keep calm and don't let yourself get 'drawn in' by all the marketing hype and rhetoric.
    You'll have your frame soon enough.
    I've gone through the same already.

  54. #854
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    Well, you're inluck: the Troll is basically a 1x1 with gearing options. They'll both fit a 2.7" tire.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent553 View Post
    If the Troll has the same tire clearance as the current 1x1, Surly just introduced my ideal mountain bike.

  55. #855
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    ya, the troll can take up to a 2.7 mm tire on the back however you have to move the wheel to the centre of the horizontal drop out for the 2.7 mm tire to fit. A 2.5 mm tire on the back can fit without any moving of the wheel to the centre of the drop out.

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.

    Some people have put Pugsley forks on the Troll and this allows them to put a 3.0 mm tire in front with no interference.

    I am very happy with my 1.95 mm studded tires.

    When the summer rolls around I'm going with 2.5 mm tires on the back and front.
    That's about all I need and that's about all the bike was built for in the first place.

    I"m just going by what I have read on here before and what is on the Surly web page.
    ... to be truthful, I don't really know.

    I don't have enough experience to apply my acquired knowledge properly.

    Nothing like experience, though.

  56. #856
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    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-rsz_img_1123.jpg  

    Surly Troll-rsz_img_1125.jpg  


  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Nice
    First Troll I've seen set up as a typical MTB (non-touring, that is). Similar to how I'd set up mine (1x10) if I ever had the moolah to get one (will do a 650B though).
    Thanks for posting that
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  58. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW

  59. #859
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    Thanks for the comments! I actually had that reba at 120mm for awhile and it did pretty good. I also ran an x-fusion velvet with 650b and that worked really well also. The thing is that when I ran a little longer fork I didn't notice or maybe care about a little slower handling at first. I will say that the handling with a 100mm fork borders on laser precision. That really helped in rock gardens where I needed to pick just the right line.
    Sometimes i get in the fog so thick when I'm riding really hard that I get sloppy. The more dialed the handling, the more its saved me. The x-fusion fork was the velvet 110-140mm. I liked it better at 110mm then the reba at 120mm. The bike was really fast also. I have a short inseam at 30 inches so I tend to sit a little more upright and steer to turn with a 650b vs leaning the whole bike and carving around a turn with a 26 tire. I still will probably switch back to 650b once its closer to summer and I crave a little more speed. Im not sure though. Ive done all three tire sizes and Ive never been significantly faster on one or the other. When I'm in shape I'm fast on all three and when I'm outta shape I'm slow on all three.

  60. #860
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    Quote Originally Posted by R n R Troll View Post

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.
    Anybody know what a good 26x3.0 tire might be if I were interested in doing this?

  61. #861
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    I would guess that a tire with more of a contoured sidewall like a conti x-king or tioga psycho genius would work. Been kinda quiet around here lately but somebody else will probably chime in with a better suggestion later. Hope that helps a little.

  62. #862
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    One of the Bound South bros checking in:

    I'm in a very serious relationship with my troll. Now that I think about it, I've been in this relationship the longest :P Goliath has been many things to me. It was my pack mule for nine months, always dependable and capable on and off the road. It will be my go-to bike for any adventure tour down the road.

    Since the trip, it has taken on a more traditional mountain bike setup (rack-less, flat bars, yet still rigid) which is perfect for commuting to class and hitting the trail after. It has also adapted well to winter; per rubber advice received here, I picked up some 2.7" Nevegals. I was torn between the 2.5" and 2.7" widths but have been quite happy with the 2.7s - heavy, but voluminous and extremely fun to ride at low psi. It's the funnest tractor I've ever ridden.

    Also, I'm contemplating a second, wider wheel-set for winter riding. Making it a true half-fat/trollsey might have to wait. Maybe next winter.

    Here's the progression:

    On some Peruvian dirt.
    Surly Troll-img_9632.jpg

    Home on the prairie (just one nevegal on here)
    Surly Troll-img_0210.jpg

    Today between classes (not the best photo, but is all that I have now)
    Surly Troll-2013-01-16-16.20.58.jpg

    Let me know if you have any questions or want to see any specific photos. A big thanks to you all for some inspiration, especially Saddle Up and bbbr.

    Trollin' FTW
    Last edited by bedargvid; 01-20-2013 at 01:01 PM. Reason: fixing photos

  63. #863
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    If anyone is in the market for a small Troll I have a brand new one I am trying to part with in the classifieds. Surly Troll Small NEW 16" - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  64. #864
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    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!

  65. #865
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    Quote Originally Posted by rku615 View Post
    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW
    I have a 14" troll and tried an old 120mm marzocchi I had sitting around when I first built up the frame...I just felt like it changed the geometry in a way I didn't like...made it feel slow and clumsy versus it's normally quick handling with the stock rigid fork or with the 100mm fox it has now.

    I am sure others have run 120mm with no issues and loved it. For my local trails here in MT which tend to be steep and rocky the 100mm just felt better even with less travel.

    Personally I dont like to tinker with longer fork travel lengths as I have put up to 150mm forks on frames designed for 100mm and never felt like any benefits of more travel outweighed the odd geometry quirks that came with it!

  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by iphilrive View Post
    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!
    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.

  67. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedargvid View Post
    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.
    While preparing for our Central American tour me and my friends got a of guidance and info from your site ad a few emails. We have been in Mexico since the beginning of December much in part due to Bound South and one of you guys emails assuring that we would enjoy it. We are also traveling as a group of 3 Trolls equipped with Rohloffs. We will be pedaling into Guatemala in about a month after Belize. Pedalingnowhere.com......check it out if you are bored.

  68. #868
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    ModernBike has trolls on sale through Sunday Jan 27th.
    Just picked one up, 20" Eggplant for $456.00 !
    roxo56
    Surly Troll
    SC Butcher

  69. #869
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    here's mine.


  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?

  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?
    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels

  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels
    Solid build! Looks fantastic

  73. #873
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    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom

  74. #874
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    Quote Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom
    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll

  75. #875
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    Quote Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom
    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.

  76. #876
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    I find it pretty easy to make sure everything is straight in the drop outs. When initially putting in the wheel I make sure that the wheel is straight by looking at the gap between the frame and tire on each side, as well as lining up the center tread of the tire with the center of the seat tube. Once the wheel is straight in the frame and it's where you want it in the dropouts lock down the quick release. I try to place the axle closer to the BB to shorten the wheelbase for snappier handling. I also use a Tuggnut chain tensioner and Shimano XT skewers to keep everything in place. After that, set your brake caliper to the wheel. From here, I just check the seat tube and gaps between frame and tire to make sure my wheel is straight. Since the brake was set to a straight wheel, it should be perfectly aligned when the wheel is straight. This is a bit long-winded, but I hope it helps.

  77. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    Dang, nice build! I was not so impressed when I saw the purple color mock up on Surlys site but all builds in here I have seen look sharp! Seems like the swatch might be a little off from what the color actually is. Also it'll be cool to see the next gen of Trolls having bought one in the OG color. Welcome to the family.

    Also, gum wall tires are the bees knees. That's right, I said it. :P

  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls

  79. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls
    I'm still holding out for safety orange sidewall.

  80. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockhound View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?
    I think it is the Surly Open bar:

    Open Bar | Parts | Surly Bikes
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll
    Thanks. That is helpful to hear your wheel goes all the way in. Mine does not. It was set up about 1/3 inch away from the end. If you push the wheel further the rotor hits the end of the brake (pads are open-not squeezed).

    So, I should move the brake forward, making room for the wheel to slide all the way in?

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike for days View Post
    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.
    I am running gears. Everything is stock from the complete bike kit by surly.

    FIXED: As soon as I moved the brake forward (remounted it), the wheel slid into place. So much for thinking the bike store knows what they are doing!
    Last edited by tominbend; 02-05-2013 at 08:41 PM.

  83. #883
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    I'm new here. I purchased gyeswho's Troll which was too small for him. I'm excited to get it built up and hit some dirt! Gonna be a beast; 1x10 with mostly SRAM goodness. Photos soon!

  84. #884
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    *oopspost*
    Last edited by Gritter; 02-18-2013 at 08:51 PM.

  85. #885
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    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.
    Surly Troll-troll_front.jpgSurly Troll-troll_side.jpg

    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)

  86. #886
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    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.


    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)
    Nice build. I love that Troll Orange which I think really sets of any black parts really well aesthetically.
    I splashed out myself ages ago on a Brooks Swift but have never managed to get used to it.
    I'm going to give it another try on my new Ogre frame (coming this week hopefully).

  88. #888
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    Thanks! I searched for months for an Agent Orange Troll, because by the time I finally had enough cash saved to buy one, they had already moved on to the purple color. No places had any orange Trolls in stock, so I had to find a used one.

    Actually, I've swapped the Swift out for a Specialized Avatar Gel... I love Brooks saddles, but for trails, I think something a little more forgiving on the goods was in order.

  89. #889
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    After about 60 miles on my new Troll, I am still facing strong fork chatter/vibration when braking at slow speeds (no chatter when braking, say above 7-8 mph, but when I come to a stop, especially with force or on a steep hill, the fork vibrates and chatters until the bike comes to a complete stop, The chatter is so strong that I do not enjoy riding the bike. The bike is a Surly Troll 18" complete bike/build with Avid BB7's.

    I have: tried to "bed" in the brake pads when new, changed to new organic brake pads, replaced the rotor with same stock model (thought it might be contaminated), re-set up the brakes (centered caliper, etc.), checked the front skewer for tightness, and checked/tightened the headseat.

    I finally took it back to the REI today (I bought it there because I had about $400 in gift certificates) today to see if there is anything else they can do. They are going to keep it and get back to me. The reaction was not optimistic however.

    Sounds like I may be an anomaly and I am very surprised to have this issue on what I thought would be a very robust fork, but none the less, I am facing this issue. I am even thinking of getting rid of the bb7's, but is seems like quite a waste of money and a little upsetting to take this step on a new bike.

    Am I the only one having this issue? Any advice or something I could still try that I haven't?

    Thanks,

  90. #890
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    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

  91. #891
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    It's the brakes, this happens to me constantly on my Troll equipped with BB7 brakes. Squeeze a little harder and it stops, it's simply glazing between the pad and disc. I don't find it to be a big deal. It's a long rigid fork, the forces have to go somewhere when you are braking, if you had suspension the fork would be compressing. It happens mostly because of extended slow speed braking.

  92. #892
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    This is called brake judder. Have the shop check for a bent/misaligned fork, proper hub adjustment, wheel true, spoke tension, and correct headset adjustment. Swap out the caliper, clean the rotor, check everything for proper torque. Basically, everything on the front end needs to be checked.

  93. #893
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    Here's another factor to consider, especially when dealing with a "complete" Surly build (applies to any frame, really)... check to make sure your headtube is faced for your headset, and if you're using a cheaper threadless stem that's cast or painted and/or powdercoated, get your shop mechanic to face the bottom side of the steerer clamp on the stem. May seem like overkill, but it does make a difference in getting the whole stem/headset/fork assembly as snug and trouble-free as possible. I'm always surprised at how many complete frames are assembled without first facing the headtube (and bottom bracket shell).

  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

    All REI's (except Grand Junction) have fully qualified mechanics on staff. At least one of which has been to Barnetts Bike School

  95. #895
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    Most brake issues I've had like this were caused by poor spoke tension from machine built wheels. FWIW I'd check that first.

  96. #896
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    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8531396533/" title="Great Divide Canada by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8531396533_879707a351_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Great Divide Canada"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8532505456/" title="Great Divide Canada by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8532505456_581b9cca82_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Great Divide Canada"></a>

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?
    Not all of them at least:

    Surly Troll-winter_troll.jpg
    My troll having its first bikepacking trip in -20 degrees Celcius

    I want to thank everyone here on the forums for posting pictures and specs of your Trolls! I guess building mine would have taken many trials and errors before becoming what it is now, but with all the helpful posts here it was a pretty smooth ride :).

    Specs for this build:
    18" Orange Surly Troll frameset
    Avid BB7 brakes
    Shimano SLX 3x10 gears + shifters
    BBB Multibar handlebar
    Mavic XC717 rims with Shimano XT hubs
    Nokia Hakka WXC300 for winter
    Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Evolution for summer
    Tubus Cargo rear rack
    SKS P65 fenders

  98. #898
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    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.

  99. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocco580 View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?
    Which Troll are you referring to?

  100. #900
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusheleven View Post
    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.
    This bike can certainly be used for racing, albeit about a pound or two heavier than other steel bikes like Ritchey. The geometry is pretty much old school and comfortable for long rides.

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