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Thread: Surly Troll

  1. #876
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    I find it pretty easy to make sure everything is straight in the drop outs. When initially putting in the wheel I make sure that the wheel is straight by looking at the gap between the frame and tire on each side, as well as lining up the center tread of the tire with the center of the seat tube. Once the wheel is straight in the frame and it's where you want it in the dropouts lock down the quick release. I try to place the axle closer to the BB to shorten the wheelbase for snappier handling. I also use a Tuggnut chain tensioner and Shimano XT skewers to keep everything in place. After that, set your brake caliper to the wheel. From here, I just check the seat tube and gaps between frame and tire to make sure my wheel is straight. Since the brake was set to a straight wheel, it should be perfectly aligned when the wheel is straight. This is a bit long-winded, but I hope it helps.

  2. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    Dang, nice build! I was not so impressed when I saw the purple color mock up on Surlys site but all builds in here I have seen look sharp! Seems like the swatch might be a little off from what the color actually is. Also it'll be cool to see the next gen of Trolls having bought one in the OG color. Welcome to the family.

    Also, gum wall tires are the bees knees. That's right, I said it. :P

  3. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls

  4. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls
    I'm still holding out for safety orange sidewall.

  5. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockhound View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?
    I think it is the Surly Open bar:

    Open Bar | Parts | Surly Bikes
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  6. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll
    Thanks. That is helpful to hear your wheel goes all the way in. Mine does not. It was set up about 1/3 inch away from the end. If you push the wheel further the rotor hits the end of the brake (pads are open-not squeezed).

    So, I should move the brake forward, making room for the wheel to slide all the way in?

  7. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike for days View Post
    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.
    I am running gears. Everything is stock from the complete bike kit by surly.

    FIXED: As soon as I moved the brake forward (remounted it), the wheel slid into place. So much for thinking the bike store knows what they are doing!
    Last edited by tominbend; 02-05-2013 at 08:41 PM.

  8. #883
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    I'm new here. I purchased gyeswho's Troll which was too small for him. I'm excited to get it built up and hit some dirt! Gonna be a beast; 1x10 with mostly SRAM goodness. Photos soon!

  9. #884
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    *oopspost*
    Last edited by Gritter; 02-18-2013 at 08:51 PM.

  10. #885
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    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.
    Surly Troll-troll_front.jpgSurly Troll-troll_side.jpg

    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)

  11. #886
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    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?

  12. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.


    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)
    Nice build. I love that Troll Orange which I think really sets of any black parts really well aesthetically.
    I splashed out myself ages ago on a Brooks Swift but have never managed to get used to it.
    I'm going to give it another try on my new Ogre frame (coming this week hopefully).

  13. #888
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    Thanks! I searched for months for an Agent Orange Troll, because by the time I finally had enough cash saved to buy one, they had already moved on to the purple color. No places had any orange Trolls in stock, so I had to find a used one.

    Actually, I've swapped the Swift out for a Specialized Avatar Gel... I love Brooks saddles, but for trails, I think something a little more forgiving on the goods was in order.

  14. #889
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    After about 60 miles on my new Troll, I am still facing strong fork chatter/vibration when braking at slow speeds (no chatter when braking, say above 7-8 mph, but when I come to a stop, especially with force or on a steep hill, the fork vibrates and chatters until the bike comes to a complete stop, The chatter is so strong that I do not enjoy riding the bike. The bike is a Surly Troll 18" complete bike/build with Avid BB7's.

    I have: tried to "bed" in the brake pads when new, changed to new organic brake pads, replaced the rotor with same stock model (thought it might be contaminated), re-set up the brakes (centered caliper, etc.), checked the front skewer for tightness, and checked/tightened the headseat.

    I finally took it back to the REI today (I bought it there because I had about $400 in gift certificates) today to see if there is anything else they can do. They are going to keep it and get back to me. The reaction was not optimistic however.

    Sounds like I may be an anomaly and I am very surprised to have this issue on what I thought would be a very robust fork, but none the less, I am facing this issue. I am even thinking of getting rid of the bb7's, but is seems like quite a waste of money and a little upsetting to take this step on a new bike.

    Am I the only one having this issue? Any advice or something I could still try that I haven't?

    Thanks,

  15. #890
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    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

  16. #891
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    It's the brakes, this happens to me constantly on my Troll equipped with BB7 brakes. Squeeze a little harder and it stops, it's simply glazing between the pad and disc. I don't find it to be a big deal. It's a long rigid fork, the forces have to go somewhere when you are braking, if you had suspension the fork would be compressing. It happens mostly because of extended slow speed braking.

  17. #892
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    This is called brake judder. Have the shop check for a bent/misaligned fork, proper hub adjustment, wheel true, spoke tension, and correct headset adjustment. Swap out the caliper, clean the rotor, check everything for proper torque. Basically, everything on the front end needs to be checked.

  18. #893
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    Here's another factor to consider, especially when dealing with a "complete" Surly build (applies to any frame, really)... check to make sure your headtube is faced for your headset, and if you're using a cheaper threadless stem that's cast or painted and/or powdercoated, get your shop mechanic to face the bottom side of the steerer clamp on the stem. May seem like overkill, but it does make a difference in getting the whole stem/headset/fork assembly as snug and trouble-free as possible. I'm always surprised at how many complete frames are assembled without first facing the headtube (and bottom bracket shell).

  19. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

    All REI's (except Grand Junction) have fully qualified mechanics on staff. At least one of which has been to Barnetts Bike School

  20. #895
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    Most brake issues I've had like this were caused by poor spoke tension from machine built wheels. FWIW I'd check that first.

  21. #896
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    Great Divide Canada

    Great Divide Canada

  22. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?
    Not all of them at least:

    Surly Troll-winter_troll.jpg
    My troll having its first bikepacking trip in -20 degrees Celcius

    I want to thank everyone here on the forums for posting pictures and specs of your Trolls! I guess building mine would have taken many trials and errors before becoming what it is now, but with all the helpful posts here it was a pretty smooth ride :).

    Specs for this build:
    18" Orange Surly Troll frameset
    Avid BB7 brakes
    Shimano SLX 3x10 gears + shifters
    BBB Multibar handlebar
    Mavic XC717 rims with Shimano XT hubs
    Nokia Hakka WXC300 for winter
    Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Evolution for summer
    Tubus Cargo rear rack
    SKS P65 fenders

  23. #898
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    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.

  24. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocco580 View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?[img]***************************/13.jpg[/img]
    Which Troll are you referring to?

  25. #900
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusheleven View Post
    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.
    This bike can certainly be used for racing, albeit about a pound or two heavier than other steel bikes like Ritchey. The geometry is pretty much old school and comfortable for long rides.

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