Surly Troll

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  • 01-08-2013
    Saddle Up
    With Specialized Rib cages, no spacer is needed.
  • 01-09-2013
    R n R Troll
    Hi SaddleUp;
    If you plan on riding through all that white stuff what tires do you have on?

    I just put some Kenda Klondike studded tires on my troll, ... 1.95 wide.
    They have a lot of studs and supposedly cut through the snow better than a 2.1mm wide tire.

    I also put on some keyless anti threft ZEFAL QR's skewers.
    The only way they unlock is if the bike is turned up side down or on a 90 degree angle.

    This city slicker is riding with a lot more confidence now.
    The Kenda's are amazing.
  • 01-09-2013
    R n R Troll
    Keep calm and don't let yourself get 'drawn in' by all the marketing hype and rhetoric.
    You'll have your frame soon enough.
    I've gone through the same already.
  • 01-09-2013
    seat_boy
    Well, you're inluck: the Troll is basically a 1x1 with gearing options. They'll both fit a 2.7" tire.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Vincent553 View Post
    If the Troll has the same tire clearance as the current 1x1, Surly just introduced my ideal mountain bike.

  • 01-09-2013
    R n R Troll
    ya, the troll can take up to a 2.7 mm tire on the back however you have to move the wheel to the centre of the horizontal drop out for the 2.7 mm tire to fit. A 2.5 mm tire on the back can fit without any moving of the wheel to the centre of the drop out.

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.

    Some people have put Pugsley forks on the Troll and this allows them to put a 3.0 mm tire in front with no interference.

    I am very happy with my 1.95 mm studded tires.

    When the summer rolls around I'm going with 2.5 mm tires on the back and front.
    That's about all I need and that's about all the bike was built for in the first place.

    I"m just going by what I have read on here before and what is on the Surly web page.
    ... to be truthful, I don't really know.

    I don't have enough experience to apply my acquired knowledge properly.

    Nothing like experience, though.
  • 01-13-2013
    trane0605
    2 Attachment(s)
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
  • 01-13-2013
    r1Gel
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.

    Nice :cool:
    First Troll I've seen set up as a typical MTB (non-touring, that is). Similar to how I'd set up mine (1x10) if I ever had the moolah to get one (will do a 650B though).
    Thanks for posting that :thumbsup:
  • 01-13-2013
    rku615
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.

    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW
  • 01-14-2013
    trane0605
    Thanks for the comments! I actually had that reba at 120mm for awhile and it did pretty good. I also ran an x-fusion velvet with 650b and that worked really well also. The thing is that when I ran a little longer fork I didn't notice or maybe care about a little slower handling at first. I will say that the handling with a 100mm fork borders on laser precision. That really helped in rock gardens where I needed to pick just the right line.
    Sometimes i get in the fog so thick when I'm riding really hard that I get sloppy. The more dialed the handling, the more its saved me. The x-fusion fork was the velvet 110-140mm. I liked it better at 110mm then the reba at 120mm. The bike was really fast also. I have a short inseam at 30 inches so I tend to sit a little more upright and steer to turn with a 650b vs leaning the whole bike and carving around a turn with a 26 tire. I still will probably switch back to 650b once its closer to summer and I crave a little more speed. Im not sure though. Ive done all three tire sizes and Ive never been significantly faster on one or the other. When I'm in shape I'm fast on all three and when I'm outta shape I'm slow on all three.
  • 01-14-2013
    jbphilly
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by R n R Troll View Post

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.

    Anybody know what a good 26x3.0 tire might be if I were interested in doing this?
  • 01-15-2013
    trane0605
    I would guess that a tire with more of a contoured sidewall like a conti x-king or tioga psycho genius would work. Been kinda quiet around here lately but somebody else will probably chime in with a better suggestion later. Hope that helps a little.
  • 01-16-2013
    bedargvid
    6 Attachment(s)
    One of the Bound South bros checking in:

    I'm in a very serious relationship with my troll. Now that I think about it, I've been in this relationship the longest :P Goliath has been many things to me. It was my pack mule for nine months, always dependable and capable on and off the road. It will be my go-to bike for any adventure tour down the road.

    Since the trip, it has taken on a more traditional mountain bike setup (rack-less, flat bars, yet still rigid) which is perfect for commuting to class and hitting the trail after. It has also adapted well to winter; per rubber advice received here, I picked up some 2.7" Nevegals. I was torn between the 2.5" and 2.7" widths but have been quite happy with the 2.7s - heavy, but voluminous and extremely fun to ride at low psi. It's the funnest tractor I've ever ridden.

    Also, I'm contemplating a second, wider wheel-set for winter riding. Making it a true half-fat/trollsey might have to wait. Maybe next winter.

    Here's the progression:

    On some Peruvian dirt.
    Attachment 753670

    Home on the prairie (just one nevegal on here)
    Attachment 753672

    Today between classes (not the best photo, but is all that I have now)
    Attachment 753671

    Let me know if you have any questions or want to see any specific photos. A big thanks to you all for some inspiration, especially Saddle Up and bbbr.

    Trollin' FTW
  • 01-16-2013
    xhailofgunfirex
    If anyone is in the market for a small Troll I have a brand new one I am trying to part with in the classifieds. Surly Troll Small NEW 16" - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
  • 01-17-2013
    iphilrive
    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!
  • 01-18-2013
    anti-spandex
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rku615 View Post
    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW

    I have a 14" troll and tried an old 120mm marzocchi I had sitting around when I first built up the frame...I just felt like it changed the geometry in a way I didn't like...made it feel slow and clumsy versus it's normally quick handling with the stock rigid fork or with the 100mm fox it has now.

    I am sure others have run 120mm with no issues and loved it. For my local trails here in MT which tend to be steep and rocky the 100mm just felt better even with less travel.

    Personally I dont like to tinker with longer fork travel lengths as I have put up to 150mm forks on frames designed for 100mm and never felt like any benefits of more travel outweighed the odd geometry quirks that came with it!
  • 01-20-2013
    bedargvid
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by iphilrive View Post
    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!

    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.
  • 01-24-2013
    mwv
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bedargvid View Post
    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.

    While preparing for our Central American tour me and my friends got a of guidance and info from your site ad a few emails. We have been in Mexico since the beginning of December much in part due to Bound South and one of you guys emails assuring that we would enjoy it. We are also traveling as a group of 3 Trolls equipped with Rohloffs. We will be pedaling into Guatemala in about a month after Belize. Pedalingnowhere.com......check it out if you are bored.
  • 01-26-2013
    roxo56
    ModernBike has trolls on sale through Sunday Jan 27th.
    Just picked one up, 20" Eggplant for $456.00 ! :D
  • 02-01-2013
    gamb
  • 02-01-2013
    sasquatch rides a SS
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gamb View Post

    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?
  • 02-01-2013
    gamb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?

    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels
  • 02-01-2013
    sasquatch rides a SS
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels

    Solid build! Looks fantastic :)
  • 02-05-2013
    tominbend
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom
  • 02-05-2013
    gamb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom

    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll
  • 02-05-2013
    bike for days
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom

    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.