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Thread: Surly Troll

  1. #1651
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    Hello Trollers,

    I'm building a Troll at the moment and I'm having some problems with the last parts. I need tubeless ready wheelsets for an sram 11 speed. I like them affordable, oh and I am planning on putting 2.5" tires on it.
    Anyone can help me with some suggestions?
    Last edited by Hyloba; 07-27-2016 at 04:24 AM.

  2. #1652
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hyloba View Post
    Hello Trollers,

    I'm building a Troll at the moment and I'm having some problems with the last parts. I need tubeless ready wheelsets for an sram 11 speed. I like them affordable, oh and I am planning on putting 2.5" tires on it.
    Anyone can help me with some suggestions?
    Velocity Wheels - Hand Made in USA
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  3. #1653
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post
    Thanks for the reply! Though I can't seem to find a store which ships to my country in Europe. Know of anything else?

  4. #1654
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    So, I can't believe this thread is quiet given the announcement of changes coming to the Troll.



    I've long lusted for a Troll, as it's my namesake bike and the first Durly that caught my eye when I jumped back into cycling a few years ago. After riding a Pugsley for awhile and burned many many miles on a Cross Check, I'm finally ready for a Troll.

    I picked up some 650b wheels, Crazy bars, a new Brooks to put on it, all the parts I need, and now all the old frames are gone in Medium. I actually kibd of really want the old design with the corrected fork, as it leaves me the option to SS mtb it with a squishy fork. I'm not as stoked on the updated frame. What does everyone else think?

  5. #1655
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    Quote Originally Posted by mochunk View Post
    So, I can't believe this thread is quiet given the announcement of changes coming to the Troll.



    I've long lusted for a Troll, as it's my namesake bike and the first Durly that caught my eye when I jumped back into cycling a few years ago. After riding a Pugsley for awhile and burned many many miles on a Cross Check, I'm finally ready for a Troll.

    I picked up some 650b wheels, Crazy bars, a new Brooks to put on it, all the parts I need, and now all the old frames are gone in Medium. I actually kibd of really want the old design with the corrected fork, as it leaves me the option to SS mtb it with a squishy fork. I'm not as stoked on the updated frame. What does everyone else think?
    I, too, preferred the old design. I like the option of adding a fork, and actually ran mine that way for a long time. I have it set up rigid with drop bars now, so really would be perfect for the new frame, but ill be keeping my old one for the versatility. Part of what made it so attractive in the first place. Very Surly.

    I do like the added tire clearance of the redesign though, I swapped the Pugs for and Instigator, would have been fun to swap wheelset to the Troll in the winter for commuting. If that and the added bosses would have been the only change, then i might be ordering a new frame, but alas, ill stick with my purple.

  6. #1656
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    Yeah, I feel I may be stuck getting a used complete to get the black medium I want.

    I also thought about replacing my Pugs with the Troll as a 3" winter comnuter since my Pugs has been pushed aside as my main Mtb as I won a sweet FS mtb. BUT I planned to run the Troll as a townie/bar hopper SS. Having to switch drivetrains AND wheels twice a year may be more than I may be willing to do. I'm lazy when it comes to bike work

    I nay just have to bude my time to frind just the right frame, just irks me to do so since I've had this built in my head for years...

  7. #1657
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    Quote Originally Posted by mochunk View Post
    So, I can't believe this thread is quiet given the announcement of changes coming to the Troll.
    There's another thread where it's being discussed. It seems to me like it's a trade-off: remove the suspension fork option and add the wider hub option. Of the two, I feel like I'm more likely to use the suspension fork, but in reality I have not added a suspension fork, nor have I found myself wanting a wider hub. So apart from that, the new Troll has a little more room in the triangle for a bag and can take a little wider tires. Both positive changes if you didn't care about the suspension correction. But neither are big enough changes for me to want to change out my frame.

  8. #1658
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    mochunk, you could always order a 1x1 frameset. Same geo as the old Troll.
    2015 Surly Ice Cream Truck
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  9. #1659
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    I grabbed a world troller for myself right as I closed down my bike shop.

    for me, the framebag that fits my medium krampus fits my medium pugsley, fits the medium world troller, fits my pivot les.

    Add in the fact I can run a fork or not, and I can swap the wheels from my big dummy (rohloff/schmidt) means that I could build it as a fuselage and hang it from a rafter. then when I need to go somewhere, pull the wheels of the dummy, throw it in a travel box cut in half (love the s&s/ritchey travel bikes) and away I go.

    for me, the original design is better. if you are looking for one, look to the s&s bike. very few people who have bought a travel bike regret owning one. and I can never not own one again....

  10. #1660
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    mochunk, I have a 2012 Troll and have used suspension forks with 26 inch wheels. I now have 27.5 wheels and want to install suspension forks but not sure if it will work with the geometry.

    Do you know of anyone that has used SS forks with the 27.5 wheelset?

  11. #1661
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    Favorite Troll!

    Long time reader of this forum! I finally have the time to upload a photo of my troll!

    Surly Troll-20160912_143425.jpg
    instagram: _skinnytwig #justpedal

  12. #1662
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    I also am thinking of throwing Ergon grips (biokork gc-1 look beautiful!) on my jones h-bar... But i"m not sure how it would fare with that sweep. Do you have more thoughts on it? I don't care how it looks so much as if it would increase my comfort and hand positions. Currently I have ESI chunky grips and it feels nice but I wonder about the Ergons all the time..

  13. #1663
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    There are not really a lot of thoughts on grips except its a personal thing like saddles. I have a set of GC-1 grips on my On-One Mary bars with a big sweep like the Jones bars (have used Jones in past) and they're about as comfortable as it gets for me and keeping my wrist aligned. The only thing I will say is with these grips if you have the 710 Jones bars you are going to have a lot of bar and limiting hand position unless you want to tape sections.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  14. #1664
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post
    There are not really a lot of thoughts on grips except its a personal thing like saddles. I have a set of GC-1 grips on my On-One Mary bars with a big sweep like the Jones bars (have used Jones in past) and they're about as comfortable as it gets for me and keeping my wrist aligned. The only thing I will say is with these grips if you have the 710 Jones bars you are going to have a lot of bar and limiting hand position unless you want to tape sections.
    Thanks! I do have the 710, I didn't understand your last sentence.

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    I've got the biocork GC1's on order having first tried the ESI grips and presently with an old set of 'normal' ergons. I've not had the Troller built up long so am still experimenting with stem length and height as well as the grips.

    What I've found so far...the ESI's aren't comfortable for me. I have them on another mountain bike with renthal bars and like them but I can't get comfortable with them on the Jones bar, it also gets pretty humid where I am in the Middle East which makes them slippery to grip. The ergons feel a lot more comfortable, my hands appreciate the palm rests, though of course it limits handmovement on that part of the bar. Looking at the profile of my old ergons I can see (and feel) they increase the sweep slightly - which is not what I want when I've already got 45° in the bar, and I am angling my hands slightly to compensate for it.

    The GC1's do the opposite, though not by much, there will still be miles more sweep than on a regular set of bars.

    After first ride I didn't think me and Jones were going to have a long relationship, but now I've got the height and stem length dialed in I like them. Hopefully the GC1's will perfect them.

    I originally had the brake clamps butted up near the weld joints which us right where I like to grip when cruising much of the time. I've now moved them backwards to butt up against the ergons which is much better. The joint area is now 'clean' and I can actually operate the brakes without moving off the grips.

    Some lizard skins DSP tape makes the loop so cushiony and comfy as well. I didn't think bare metal was uncomfortable - until i tried wrapping the tape on!

    Cos I'm a shortarse the Jones bars feel maybe a bit to wide, I might cut them back to 660mm but holding off until I'm sure as there's no going back once its done!

  16. #1666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agster View Post
    I've got the biocork GC1's on order having first tried the ESI grips and presently with an old set of 'normal' ergons. I've not had the Troller built up long so am still experimenting with stem length and height as well as the grips.

    What I've found so far...the ESI's aren't comfortable for me. I have them on another mountain bike with renthal bars and like them but I can't get comfortable with them on the Jones bar, it also gets pretty humid where I am in the Middle East which makes them slippery to grip. The ergons feel a lot more comfortable, my hands appreciate the palm rests, though of course it limits handmovement on that part of the bar. Looking at the profile of my old ergons I can see (and feel) they increase the sweep slightly - which is not what I want when I've already got 45° in the bar, and I am angling my hands slightly to compensate for it.

    The GC1's do the opposite, though not by much, there will still be miles more sweep than on a regular set of bars.

    After first ride I didn't think me and Jones were going to have a long relationship, but now I've got the height and stem length dialed in I like them. Hopefully the GC1's will perfect them.

    I originally had the brake clamps butted up near the weld joints which us right where I like to grip when cruising much of the time. I've now moved them backwards to butt up against the ergons which is much better. The joint area is now 'clean' and I can actually operate the brakes without moving off the grips.

    Some lizard skins DSP tape makes the loop so cushiony and comfy as well. I didn't think bare metal was uncomfortable - until i tried wrapping the tape on!

    Cos I'm a shortarse the Jones bars feel maybe a bit to wide, I might cut them back to 660mm but holding off until I'm sure as there's no going back once its done!
    Thanks for the excellent response. I'm gonna try the biokork GC1s too.

    My issue is like you - while the 710mm seem nice most of the time, because my brakes abut the (ESI chunky) grips, it just feels so wide and cruisery. I know i can grip close to the weld also, but then I dont have brakes and I ride in a city, so I cant have that.

    BUT, like you say.. no turning back. I wish i had the exact same bike with a 660 so I can just understand what the diff would be.

    Problem with the wide 710 is that if you graze something - a bush, a car mirrow - your bike instantly turns. When i ran a touring or cross drop bars (ritchey, etc) that was never an issue.

  17. #1667
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    Thinking of putting some Soma Gator bars on as they take a Rohloff shifter and maybe the new VO limp dick stem...

  18. #1668
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    Like many of the rest of you, I'm running 710 Jones. I've done commuting, errand running, easy trails and touring with them. Very versatile and comfortable. The multiple hand positions are great. I don't ride the grips much (ergon bio cork), but enjoy tgem when I do. I've wrapped all but the front middle (reserved for a light and computer) with bartape, including the part of the bar that attaches to the srem.

    Sent from my 2PQ93 using Tapatalk

  19. #1669
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    Surly Troll
    by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr

  20. #1670
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    Decided to single speed the Troll.


    Single Speed Troll
    by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr

  21. #1671
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    Hi mate how is the single speed working out for you?

  22. #1672
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    See next post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-img_1856.jpg  

    Surly Troll-img_1863.jpg  


  23. #1673
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    New Seat = comfort...

    Hi everyone, just added a Fabric Cell to my Troll last week.

    Surly Troll-img_1856.jpg

    Surly Troll-img_1863.jpg





    The Brooks B17 changed my ideas about saddles a few years ago, I found them very comfortable. However my Troll is my car and it gets ridden to work rain, hail or shine. So in the wet I was always worried about it.

    When I changed to a Jones bar awhile back I found it hard to get the saddle setback right. I had a Brooks Cambium and found a good setup with it.

    When I first viewed the Fabric Cell the outline of the saddle looked right for me, and the air spring idea seemed promising. A LBS had one and for a small outlay it was worth a try.

    Well it does everything it said on the tin, I find the Cell very comfortable, it has the feel of a worn in Brooks. Its moves a little as you ride but still fells firm.

    My longest ride so far was about 35KM and over that distance it was more comfortable than the Cambium.

    The top of the saddle is very grippy, which I like some might find it too sticky.

    I now have a spare Brooks B17 and Cambium that won't be back on the Troll anytime soon.

    The Fabric is well worth a look if you liked this shape and width of saddle.

  24. #1674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surly in OZ View Post
    Hi mate how is the single speed working out for you?
    So far so good. Changed the 36 t up front to 32 and the rear 18 up to 22. Installed the Ice Spikers so am ready for winter. Swapped the Troll fork back in. The 29er fork and the 650b wheels gets the BB up too high.

    You'll have the pry my Brooks saddles out of my cold dead hands to get them away from me. I use Truvativ seatposts with 30mm set back. Set back and angle are the keys to comfort on a Brooks saddle. I was out on the LHT last night in the rain. My new Brooks Swallow got soaked which is awesome. It really helps in shaping the saddle to your butt. Gets more comfortable with each ride. I'm not bothered by them getting wet, a coating of peanut oil to the underside and it's like new. The B-17 Flyer on the Troll has been soaked multiple times.

  25. #1675
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    Hi mate, agree on the B17, had three hours today on my Crosscheck with a B17.

    Comfortable as, fits like a glove.

    Took the Troll out this afternoon and the Fabric felt so right as well. The air springs certainly gives a similar feel to the Brooks. I will run it for a few more weeks to see how we get on.

  26. #1676
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    Does anyone know if the WTB Ranger 26 x 2.8" tyres will fit...does it measure as a true 2.8" ?

  27. #1677
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    i ordered the new troll frameset and i am planning to slowly build it over the next three months. i am thnking of going tubeless and need recommendations for tubeless ready rims and tires. i prefer 26x2.5 or wider tires. also maybe 35mm or wider rims. the troll will be used mainly for both road and off-road touring. many thanks

  28. #1678
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    Velocity Duallys will allow you to run that standard 26 tire along with a 26+ when you feel like it, plus their tubeless ready.
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  29. #1679
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    *Warning - extremely long post of loose conclusions on very specific and obscure frame/drivetrain/tire compatibility (SS can guys stop here). I didnt intend to ramble so long, but things got out of hand.

    The following is in regards to a 2015 (purple) frame, although should pertain to my orange and blue brothers too....

    Im running a very wide range 3x9 drivetrain consisting of a 22-34-48 Deore LX Hollowtech II crankset, XT 13-36t cassette with a 42t e*thirteen cog, XT fr. derailleur, XT long cage rear der, and Dura Ace bar ends. I use the friction setting on the shifters out of preference, but indexing works perfect as well. With this wide of range, i cannot be on the small 22t ring and 13t cog w/o the chain rubbing in the cage, but not being a gear ever used its not something i notice. On the other side, I have used Hayes CX Expert and TRP Spyre mechanical discs, both with a 160mm rotor.

    Ive seen a few posts about 26x2.75 Dirt Wizards fitting this frame easily. I happened to have a set I got in the Instigator frame deal they ran awhile ago, so i decided to try them on for the winter. I mounted the 120tpi Dirt Wizards on SunRingle Rhynolites (22i/27.5e width), but i had to make a few compromises compared both 26x2.35 Schwalbe Big Apples and 26x2.4 Continental Trail Kings I have used in the past on this frame and transmission.

    The Dirt Wizards will not work with this exact setup in this frame. When all the way in the forward in the dropout the tire makes full contact with the front derailleur, this was not true of the Schwalbe or the Conti. When forward, the knobs of the DW are also close enough to the chainstays that rubbing even under normal wheel flex would certainly occur.

    By sliding the wheel (and brake) to the middle of the dropouts, the widest part of the tire will line up with the widest point on the stays and give the knobs ample room, but will still not clear the front der. It appears that sliding everything to the very very rear of the dropout would give clearance to the derailleur and knobs, but I was unable to try due the the 2nd limitation of my setup. With everything pulled all the way rearward, teeth on the oversized cog catches the top of the rear derailleur as it moves through the gears.

    To get everything to work, I currently have the front derailleur limited to a 2x9 using the two big rings of the crank. The wheel is positioned in the dropout so the widest spot of the tire and CS line up. Getting the wheel perfectly centered and setting up the brake was quite a pain, but the tires have plenty of room, the large cog and rear der clear, and i have an SKS velo full coverage fender fit as well. Initially, setup was a bit of work and, but i have done 500 or so miles this way trouble and basically maintenance free. I think its worth noting that i have only used friction since sliding everything back, i expect setup and maintenance of indexing gears would be a bit more finicky, especially if one has to change a tube and reposition everything roadside.*

    edit: *this could be made easier with a tugnut or the like.*

    To bring a too long post to a conclusion, Dirt Wizards will fit in the older Troll frames, but not without a bit more work than a smaller tire. Obviously I was working with extremes on all ends in my case, but some things apply to every geared system. The tire is realistically too wide to use all the way forward in the dropout as the knobs are very close to the CS here because of their inward curve at the BB junction. Even if you are willing to live with the tighter tire clearance to retain the ease of setup and long term maintenance, running a triple up front as well will be very hard or impossible due to derailleur contact so 1x or 2x will always be easiest. If you've made it this far the good news is that if you're willing to work with the wide tire, IT FITS! and its rad! If you've been thinking or wondering about it getting a lot of rubber, stop. Do it!
    Last edited by kevin_S_08; 1 Week Ago at 12:41 PM.

  30. #1680
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    Curious if anyone is running BOB Yak trailer on their troll?
    "Ride what you love, love what you ride"

  31. #1681
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    I just tried using one this morning, but it interfered with my rack (Axiom Streamliner) so i didnt get it mounted. Trying a different rack this afternoon. I'll post pictures.

    Im borrowing the B.O.B. to see if i like it enough to buy it off of a friend. Its the full suspension version. Im just using the QR supplied with the trailer right now, but if i keep it i will end up using these:

    https://lifeinthecyclelane.wordpress...-lov/bob-nutz/

  32. #1682
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    I too want to use a BOB, probably the Yak.

    I have a hard time believing that neither B.O.B. or Surly make nuts available for use with the Troll, but it seems to be the case. I'm building a Troll with a Rohloff hub so the skewer is not what I want to use.

    Let us know what you decide to do.
    "Ride what you love, love what you ride"

  33. #1683
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    Quote Originally Posted by sal-it View Post
    i ordered the new troll frameset and i am planning to slowly build it over the next three months. i am thnking of going tubeless and need recommendations for tubeless ready rims and tires. i prefer 26x2.5 or wider tires. also maybe 35mm or wider rims. the troll will be used mainly for both road and off-road touring. many thanks
    WTB Asym i35 with Surly ET 26x2.5 tires.

    Surly Troll-img_20170202_155226.jpg

  34. #1684
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    RidinHigh, (or anyone)

    Have you taken the ETs on decent to serious singletrack? If so, how do they perform? I'm working on a Troll now which I anticipate will be both a commuter and singletrack bike.

    I'd like to use only 1 set of tires set up tubeless, preferably the ETs, but if they're not as singletrack worthy as others then I wouldn't necessarily want to do that. The local trails I'd be riding are hardpack with the occasional moderate rock garden thrown in.

    TIA!
    "Ride what you love, love what you ride"

  35. #1685
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    Quote Originally Posted by jddjirikian View Post
    RidinHigh, (or anyone)

    Have you taken the ETs on decent to serious singletrack? If so, how do they perform? I'm working on a Troll now which I anticipate will be both a commuter and singletrack bike.

    I'd like to use only 1 set of tires set up tubeless, preferably the ETs, but if they're not as singletrack worthy as others then I wouldn't necessarily want to do that. The local trails I'd be riding are hardpack with the occasional moderate rock garden thrown in.

    TIA!
    I have, they're pretty good. Traction is there, cornering is good, and rolling resistance is minimal. You will like them.

  36. #1686
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    Got the BOB successfully working on the Troll with the third rear rack i tried. Both the Axiom Journey Uni-Fit MK3 and the Blackburn Central rear racks interfered (in different spots with the hitch on the BOB. I was able to get full rack/pannier/trailer compatibility with a Bontrager BackRack using the upper, rearmost mount in the dropout and the BOB QR skewer. The same location should work using the BOB nuts in the Rolhoff holes. This is all done with a BOB Ibex, but i believe both trailers use the same hitch, so the previous compatibility should be the same for the Yak.

    I tested the BOB grocery shopping earlier this week before i figured out how to get a rack back on. I really had it loaded down (100+ lbs trailer/groceries) and it still wasnt terrible to ride with. The front of the troll does get a little light and unstable at low speeds, but front panniers or some weight in my basket would help a lot when carrying such a large load. I have drop bars as well, wide flat or riser bars would also help with stability here. Once in motion though, i hardly notice the trailer even at that weight. Taking fast corners at your usual pace is obviously out of the question, but i was able to maintain faster speeds than i anticipated and the trailer didnt seem to push me through the turn as much as i expected. Very stable at speed, and i suspect the suspension does help slightly when loaded as such, although probably unnecessary at lower weight.

    Plan on using the trailer for a gravel ride to a campsite this weekend, I'll take pictures of everything.

  37. #1687
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    Does the wheel fit all the way forward in the dropouts with the ET's? What FD/Crankset are you running?

    Thanks, Kevin

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