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Thread: Surly Troll

  1. #726
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    Cool!
    Last edited by HardyWeinberg; 09-02-2012 at 02:51 PM.

  2. #727
    Did I catch a niner?
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    Interesting brake setup, I see Canti's but also a disc on the rear? I would so put a Tomicog there for a "just in case moment."
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?
    https://www.dollarshaveclub.com/ref/...A0CC/s/tx/cx/1

  3. #728
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    I knew someone was going to notice that. She's been waiting for the new Shimano mechanical disc calipers to be available and then the cantis will come off.

  4. #729
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    Looks like my Pugsley will get a friend, just ordered a purple Troll frameset to build up over the next couple weeks.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  5. #730
    T E A M L U N A
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    purple troll

    Hell yeah!
    En la tierra de los ciegos, un hombre tuerto es rey.

  6. #731
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    Well done dude. Her smile says it all.
    Last edited by Saddle Up; 09-02-2012 at 05:56 PM. Reason: yep purple Troll

  7. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by skrnygphr View Post
    Well my girlfriend likes purple more than orange and wanted the extra mounts on the fork so I spent yesterday swapping last years frameset for this years.
    What bars are those?

  8. #733
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    The bars are Soma Sparrows.

  9. #734

  10. #735
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    New question here.

    Are the 2013 framesets already available?

  11. #736
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    Yes they are, picked up my purple one yesterday

    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  12. #737
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    Thanks. I had trouble finding a seller. I just ordered the black frame (plan to repaint, though).

  13. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSchlemmer View Post
    I mentioned that the honkin' 46T chainring on the "complete" Troll build saws through the logs that litter the local trails I ride. Further, a brittle aluminum chainring is at risk for bash-induced damage that renders said chainring unusable. I have looked extensively into bash guards, and there is no functional option that preserves the big chainring. Which is fine.

    According to my calculations, the loss of the big chainring only costs you the TWO highest gears. According to more nominal calculations, and assuming a maximum working cadence of 120 rev/min, the middle chainring tops out at 28 MPH, the big ring at 38 MPH. I cannot envision a reality in which I can sustain 38 MPH on a fat-tired bike on flat ground.

    Easy decision to lose the big ring and replace it with a burly load-bearing bash ring.

    I am even considering stripping off the front derailler and shifting into the lower ring manually when the rare occasion arise. Whoo - and I get my second water bottle mount back.

    Feel free to discuss.
    This seems like a good move for me; I never use my top two gears anyhow. If I'm on a long, long trip I might replace the whole thing with a 3-ring setup but smaller rings than th stock, but that's another story.

    So this is giving away my mechanical ineptitude maybe, but wouldn't just simply removing the big chainring cause lots of cross-chaining? Is there some kind of spacer that you might install to move the remaining two rings closer to centered with the rear cassette? Or is cross-chaining just not as bad as I've been lead to believe?

  14. #739
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    In 2006 I did an endurance series and only used the middle ring 90+% of the time. Very occasionally I'd use the small ring on long fire road climbs, and I think I used the big ring once or twice - but never the highest few gears. 32x11 with 26" wheels was plenty. FWW, on other bikes I've had top gears of 46x15 and 38x13, so IME something like a 76" top gear is fine most of the time and anything over 42x12 is toatl overkill, for me anyway. Having two rings also vastly decreases the chance of chainsuck IMHO since the front derailleur should be moved right down on top of the outer (formerly middle) ring, removing any doubt the downshift will happen.

  15. #740
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    Surly Troll-imageuploadedbytapatalk1347324354.903233.jpg


    22" troll set up as hardcore xc rig. 100mm debadged fox 100 with 15mm axle. Debadged sun ringle charger pros. 2.5 minion dhf in front 2.35 slant six in back. 760 atlas bars with oury lock ons. Just under 29 lbs as shown.

    I weight 225 and built thus for safety and durability without sacrificing fun, flick ability and versatility.

    I really love it! May think about 650b or a 120 fork but as is I really like it! Only complaint is that I get lots of pedal strike..

    Hope this helps those who are thinking about the worlds most versatile off road frame... It absolutely is a mountain bike first, touring bike second. Thanks surly.

  16. #741
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    Quote Originally Posted by satanas View Post
    In 2006 I did an endurance series and only used the middle ring 90+% of the time. Very occasionally I'd use the small ring on long fire road climbs, and I think I used the big ring once or twice - but never the highest few gears. 32x11 with 26" wheels was plenty. FWW, on other bikes I've had top gears of 46x15 and 38x13, so IME something like a 76" top gear is fine most of the time and anything over 42x12 is toatl overkill, for me anyway. Having two rings also vastly decreases the chance of chainsuck IMHO since the front derailleur should be moved right down on top of the outer (formerly middle) ring, removing any doubt the downshift will happen.
    While you might be ok most of the time running a single ring there are disadvantages. The lack of gearing options on the front will push you to use smaller sprockets of the rear cassette a lot more than if you had a triple up front. This will cause accelerated wear of your cassette, tho only really an issue if your putting in big miles.

    Cross chaining shouldnt be an issue as you should be able to use the whole cassette with the 'middle' ring anyway.

    Chainsuck? (chainsuck to most people is the chain sticking to the chainring and either getting jammed against the chainstay, moving the front mech wont stop this), i think your talking about dropping the chain behind the crank and maybe getting sucked in and jammed. Moving the front mech down will help this but mechs are designed to operate at a certain height and may not perform 100% if not in the right place. Shimano and SRAM make a range of double specific front mechs suited to certain sized chainrings.

  17. #742
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    [QUOTE=Leodesforges;It absolutely is a mountain bike first, touring bike second. Thanks surly.[/QUOTE]

    Yep, a mountain bike that can take you touring anywhere.

    Earlier today.
    Powderface Creek Trail to Prairie Creek Trail: Kananaskis, Alberta | bikepirate: get the latest dirt on trails to ride









    Mine is 650b'd


    BBQ'd bacon cheese burgers when we got back to the car.

  18. #743
    wants a taco
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    Purple troll is awesome and now the wife demands it.... She did offer plenty in return for it though...
    Just another cycling blog...
    The Long Way Home

  19. #744
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    Had mine out the other day enjoying an early taste of fall.




  20. #745
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    This is how you get to work!

    Just another cycling blog...
    The Long Way Home

  21. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickyelsdon View Post
    Chainsuck? (chainsuck to most people is the chain sticking to the chainring and either getting jammed against the chainstay, moving the front mech wont stop this)...
    With a triple crankset one is depending to some extent on the shape of the chain sideplates and the chainring teeth for the shift to take place, and the narrower the chain the more this is the case IMO. It is not possible for the downshift from the middle to the small ring to be as positive as that from the large to middle ring as there is something like 20mm more of unsupported - and thus flexible - chain between the larger ring and the front derailleur's outer cage plate.

    When the (formerly) outer ring is removed from a triple crankset, the (formerly) middle ring becomes the outer, and the front derailleur can be moved down so that it just clears this ring. Once that happens there is no way the chain can stick to this ring and refuse to shift, hence no chainsuck. There is very, very little unsupported chain to flex - as is the case when downshifting from the outer ring of a triple crankset. Yes, in some cases a different front derailleur might be required to prevent contact with the chainstay.

    Wear is IMHO a non-issue as if one has the bike geared in a reasonable manner (for the rider and use) the smallest rear cogs will only be used occasionally, when going fast. If this is not the case then either the gearing is unsuitable or - much more likely - the rider's cadence is way too low, or they just don't bother changing gears. SS fixes the latter...

  22. #747
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    I'm diggin my new Troll
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  23. #748
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    Hi mate, the purple looks great, the ride as good as ever. What size are the tyres 2.4 ?

    Regards.

    Stephen.

  24. #749
    CS2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAGI410 View Post
    I'm diggin my new Troll
    I'm diggin your new Troll too. Nice bike, care to share the build with us?
    1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1992 Stumpjumpers. 1995 Waterford 1200, 1999 Waterford RSE, plus a garage full of steel frames.

  25. #750
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    What sizes are your frame and Tangle bag please?

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