Page 18 of 34 FirstFirst ... 814151617181920212228 ... LastLast
Results 851 to 900 of 1676

Thread: Surly Troll

  1. #851
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,662
    With Specialized Rib cages, no spacer is needed.
    Last edited by Saddle Up; 01-09-2013 at 08:11 AM.

  2. #852
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    13
    Hi SaddleUp;
    If you plan on riding through all that white stuff what tires do you have on?

    I just put some Kenda Klondike studded tires on my troll, ... 1.95 wide.
    They have a lot of studs and supposedly cut through the snow better than a 2.1mm wide tire.

    I also put on some keyless anti threft ZEFAL QR's skewers.
    The only way they unlock is if the bike is turned up side down or on a 90 degree angle.

    This city slicker is riding with a lot more confidence now.
    The Kenda's are amazing.

  3. #853
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    13
    Keep calm and don't let yourself get 'drawn in' by all the marketing hype and rhetoric.
    You'll have your frame soon enough.
    I've gone through the same already.

  4. #854
    mtbr member
    Reputation: seat_boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,248
    Well, you're inluck: the Troll is basically a 1x1 with gearing options. They'll both fit a 2.7" tire.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent553 View Post
    If the Troll has the same tire clearance as the current 1x1, Surly just introduced my ideal mountain bike.

  5. #855
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    13
    ya, the troll can take up to a 2.7 mm tire on the back however you have to move the wheel to the centre of the horizontal drop out for the 2.7 mm tire to fit. A 2.5 mm tire on the back can fit without any moving of the wheel to the centre of the drop out.

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.

    Some people have put Pugsley forks on the Troll and this allows them to put a 3.0 mm tire in front with no interference.

    I am very happy with my 1.95 mm studded tires.

    When the summer rolls around I'm going with 2.5 mm tires on the back and front.
    That's about all I need and that's about all the bike was built for in the first place.

    I"m just going by what I have read on here before and what is on the Surly web page.
    ... to be truthful, I don't really know.

    I don't have enough experience to apply my acquired knowledge properly.

    Nothing like experience, though.

  6. #856
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trane0605's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Troll-rsz_img_1123.jpg  

    Surly Troll-rsz_img_1125.jpg  


  7. #857
    Baby Bear is in the house
    Reputation: r1Gel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,032
    Quote Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Nice
    First Troll I've seen set up as a typical MTB (non-touring, that is). Similar to how I'd set up mine (1x10) if I ever had the moolah to get one (will do a 650B though).
    Thanks for posting that
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  8. #858
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rku615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    209
    Quote Originally Posted by trane0605 View Post
    Here is the latest version of my troll. Was running 650b's for awhile and they worked really well. Since I'm short I favored the handling of 26er's and a reba for now.
    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW

  9. #859
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trane0605's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Thanks for the comments! I actually had that reba at 120mm for awhile and it did pretty good. I also ran an x-fusion velvet with 650b and that worked really well also. The thing is that when I ran a little longer fork I didn't notice or maybe care about a little slower handling at first. I will say that the handling with a 100mm fork borders on laser precision. That really helped in rock gardens where I needed to pick just the right line.
    Sometimes i get in the fog so thick when I'm riding really hard that I get sloppy. The more dialed the handling, the more its saved me. The x-fusion fork was the velvet 110-140mm. I liked it better at 110mm then the reba at 120mm. The bike was really fast also. I have a short inseam at 30 inches so I tend to sit a little more upright and steer to turn with a 650b vs leaning the whole bike and carving around a turn with a 26 tire. I still will probably switch back to 650b once its closer to summer and I crave a little more speed. Im not sure though. Ive done all three tire sizes and Ive never been significantly faster on one or the other. When I'm in shape I'm fast on all three and when I'm outta shape I'm slow on all three.

  10. #860
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by R n R Troll View Post

    A number of people have posted that they use a 3.0 mm tire on the front of the Troll.
    I don't know if the canti brake holders interfere or not.
    Some people have taken them off.
    Anybody know what a good 26x3.0 tire might be if I were interested in doing this?

  11. #861
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trane0605's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    I would guess that a tire with more of a contoured sidewall like a conti x-king or tioga psycho genius would work. Been kinda quiet around here lately but somebody else will probably chime in with a better suggestion later. Hope that helps a little.

  12. #862
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    15
    One of the Bound South bros checking in:

    I'm in a very serious relationship with my troll. Now that I think about it, I've been in this relationship the longest :P Goliath has been many things to me. It was my pack mule for nine months, always dependable and capable on and off the road. It will be my go-to bike for any adventure tour down the road.

    Since the trip, it has taken on a more traditional mountain bike setup (rack-less, flat bars, yet still rigid) which is perfect for commuting to class and hitting the trail after. It has also adapted well to winter; per rubber advice received here, I picked up some 2.7" Nevegals. I was torn between the 2.5" and 2.7" widths but have been quite happy with the 2.7s - heavy, but voluminous and extremely fun to ride at low psi. It's the funnest tractor I've ever ridden.

    Also, I'm contemplating a second, wider wheel-set for winter riding. Making it a true half-fat/trollsey might have to wait. Maybe next winter.

    Here's the progression:

    On some Peruvian dirt.
    Surly Troll-img_9632.jpg

    Home on the prairie (just one nevegal on here)
    Surly Troll-img_0210.jpg

    Today between classes (not the best photo, but is all that I have now)
    Surly Troll-2013-01-16-16.20.58.jpg

    Let me know if you have any questions or want to see any specific photos. A big thanks to you all for some inspiration, especially Saddle Up and bbbr.

    Trollin' FTW
    Last edited by bedargvid; 01-20-2013 at 01:01 PM. Reason: fixing photos

  13. #863
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    231
    If anyone is in the market for a small Troll I have a brand new one I am trying to part with in the classifieds. Surly Troll Small NEW 16" - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  14. #864
    iphilrive
    Reputation: iphilrive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    140
    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!

  15. #865
    mtbr member
    Reputation: anti-spandex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by rku615 View Post
    Nice set up Trane. Anyone tried a 120mm fork on a troll?

    Regards,
    KW
    I have a 14" troll and tried an old 120mm marzocchi I had sitting around when I first built up the frame...I just felt like it changed the geometry in a way I didn't like...made it feel slow and clumsy versus it's normally quick handling with the stock rigid fork or with the 100mm fox it has now.

    I am sure others have run 120mm with no issues and loved it. For my local trails here in MT which tend to be steep and rocky the 100mm just felt better even with less travel.

    Personally I dont like to tinker with longer fork travel lengths as I have put up to 150mm forks on frames designed for 100mm and never felt like any benefits of more travel outweighed the odd geometry quirks that came with it!

  16. #866
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by iphilrive View Post
    @bedargvid what saddle is that? no fenders?!
    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.

  17. #867
    mwv
    mwv is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by bedargvid View Post
    It's a fizik road saddle, not sure of the model. I'd use my brooks if I didn't have to park my bike outside during some of my classes.

    My fenders are in Guatemala atm, but should be coming back soon. We left them there with a family we know through a local family from home. If I was only commuting, I'd opt for thinner tires and fenders. But with off road and snow use, no fenders is the way to go; I don't think the nevegals would fit otherwise.
    While preparing for our Central American tour me and my friends got a of guidance and info from your site ad a few emails. We have been in Mexico since the beginning of December much in part due to Bound South and one of you guys emails assuring that we would enjoy it. We are also traveling as a group of 3 Trolls equipped with Rohloffs. We will be pedaling into Guatemala in about a month after Belize. Pedalingnowhere.com......check it out if you are bored.

  18. #868
    mtbr noob
    Reputation: roxo56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    104
    ModernBike has trolls on sale through Sunday Jan 27th.
    Just picked one up, 20" Eggplant for $456.00 !
    roxo56
    Surly Troll
    SC Butcher

  19. #869
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    70
    here's mine.


  20. #870
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?

  21. #871
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    Sweet! What did you end up doing for the build kit?
    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels

  22. #872
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    After going back and forth on piecing it together etc it ended up being easier to just go SRAM X7 all around. I got the brakes as new take offs. Owner of the bike wanted the brakes he had on the old ones and sold me elixers (sp?) on the cheap. Race Face stem, seatpost and bars, Fizik seat that I had and BWW wheels
    Solid build! Looks fantastic

  23. #873
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    56
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom

  24. #874
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom
    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll

  25. #875
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bike for days's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by tominbend View Post
    Can someone please help me with the rear dropouts? I bought a 2013 Surly Troll yesterday, and can not figure out how to "seat" the rear wheel (it was a complete bike and worked fine before I messed with it).

    And yes, this is serious: How do you use horizontal dropouts?

    1. Do you slide the wheel all the way in (If I do slide all they way in, it is not straight and hits the brakes)? Do you slide it in far enough for appropriate chain tension? How do you know?

    2. After taking the rear wheel off, I can not get the brake aligned again (disk). Is there a trick I am missing? Do you manually (eyeballing) try to align the wheel and brakes? No matter what I do I the pads are rubbing on the disk rotor.

    Can someone please guide me through the process? I want to like this bike, but it is only frustrating me. This is my first bike with horizontal dropouts.

    I seriously appreciate anyone's help.

    Thanks,

    Tom
    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.

  26. #876
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    I find it pretty easy to make sure everything is straight in the drop outs. When initially putting in the wheel I make sure that the wheel is straight by looking at the gap between the frame and tire on each side, as well as lining up the center tread of the tire with the center of the seat tube. Once the wheel is straight in the frame and it's where you want it in the dropouts lock down the quick release. I try to place the axle closer to the BB to shorten the wheelbase for snappier handling. I also use a Tuggnut chain tensioner and Shimano XT skewers to keep everything in place. After that, set your brake caliper to the wheel. From here, I just check the seat tube and gaps between frame and tire to make sure my wheel is straight. Since the brake was set to a straight wheel, it should be perfectly aligned when the wheel is straight. This is a bit long-winded, but I hope it helps.

  27. #877
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bike for days's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    Dang, nice build! I was not so impressed when I saw the purple color mock up on Surlys site but all builds in here I have seen look sharp! Seems like the swatch might be a little off from what the color actually is. Also it'll be cool to see the next gen of Trolls having bought one in the OG color. Welcome to the family.

    Also, gum wall tires are the bees knees. That's right, I said it. :P

  28. #878
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    here's mine.

    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls

  29. #879
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bike for days's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    156
    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I agree about the gum walls...if you ever get some offroad tires they need to have gum walls
    I'm still holding out for safety orange sidewall.

  30. #880
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vikb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,074
    Quote Originally Posted by rockhound View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?
    I think it is the Surly Open bar:

    Open Bar | Parts | Surly Bikes
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  31. #881
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by gamb View Post
    Did you squeeze the brake lever with the wheel off? are the calipers closed? That could be causing the disk not to set. You should see gap between the pads when looking

    My wheel slides all the way in on my Troll
    Thanks. That is helpful to hear your wheel goes all the way in. Mine does not. It was set up about 1/3 inch away from the end. If you push the wheel further the rotor hits the end of the brake (pads are open-not squeezed).

    So, I should move the brake forward, making room for the wheel to slide all the way in?

  32. #882
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by bike for days View Post
    First, not to be pedantic but those aren't horizontal drops, but track ends with a derailer hanger. The practical part of this is it makes it a little different trying to seat the wheel so it is not askew.

    I am not well versed in disc brakes, so someone else should hit that point, but the most important question is are you running gears or single speed? Granted, you don't want your wheel off angle much with gears, but a single speed chain line and tension is a lot more critical than a geared bike, which will have some slack in the chain.
    I am running gears. Everything is stock from the complete bike kit by surly.

    FIXED: As soon as I moved the brake forward (remounted it), the wheel slid into place. So much for thinking the bike store knows what they are doing!
    Last edited by tominbend; 02-05-2013 at 08:41 PM.

  33. #883
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    I'm new here. I purchased gyeswho's Troll which was too small for him. I'm excited to get it built up and hit some dirt! Gonna be a beast; 1x10 with mostly SRAM goodness. Photos soon!

  34. #884
    Tires
    Reputation: Gritter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    525
    *oopspost*
    Last edited by Gritter; 02-18-2013 at 08:51 PM.

  35. #885
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.
    Surly Troll-troll_front.jpgSurly Troll-troll_side.jpg

    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)

  36. #886
    mtbr member
    Reputation: seat_boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,248
    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?

  37. #887
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    Finally got mine all built up over the weekend of Valentine's Day.


    build list:
    Raceface cranks 175mm 32t / bashguard
    Sram X.9 type 2 med. cage rear derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 speed 12-36 cassette
    Avid BB7s w/ 160mm rotors
    Sram X.7 trigger shifter
    X.9 hubs laced to Stan's Flow rims
    Kenda Slant Six 26x2.5 tires
    Paul chain Keeper (had to space out the bashguard a bit)
    Paul seatpost (parts bin)
    Swift saddle (parts bin)
    Avid levers (parts bin)
    Easton Monkey Bar risers (parts bin)
    Thomson stem (parts bin)
    Sunlite Gold Tec rack (parts bin)
    Ergon grips and extensions (parts bin)
    VP Vice platform pedals (parts bin)
    Nice build. I love that Troll Orange which I think really sets of any black parts really well aesthetically.
    I splashed out myself ages ago on a Brooks Swift but have never managed to get used to it.
    I'm going to give it another try on my new Ogre frame (coming this week hopefully).

  38. #888
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    Thanks! I searched for months for an Agent Orange Troll, because by the time I finally had enough cash saved to buy one, they had already moved on to the purple color. No places had any orange Trolls in stock, so I had to find a used one.

    Actually, I've swapped the Swift out for a Specialized Avatar Gel... I love Brooks saddles, but for trails, I think something a little more forgiving on the goods was in order.

  39. #889
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    56
    After about 60 miles on my new Troll, I am still facing strong fork chatter/vibration when braking at slow speeds (no chatter when braking, say above 7-8 mph, but when I come to a stop, especially with force or on a steep hill, the fork vibrates and chatters until the bike comes to a complete stop, The chatter is so strong that I do not enjoy riding the bike. The bike is a Surly Troll 18" complete bike/build with Avid BB7's.

    I have: tried to "bed" in the brake pads when new, changed to new organic brake pads, replaced the rotor with same stock model (thought it might be contaminated), re-set up the brakes (centered caliper, etc.), checked the front skewer for tightness, and checked/tightened the headseat.

    I finally took it back to the REI today (I bought it there because I had about $400 in gift certificates) today to see if there is anything else they can do. They are going to keep it and get back to me. The reaction was not optimistic however.

    Sounds like I may be an anomaly and I am very surprised to have this issue on what I thought would be a very robust fork, but none the less, I am facing this issue. I am even thinking of getting rid of the bb7's, but is seems like quite a waste of money and a little upsetting to take this step on a new bike.

    Am I the only one having this issue? Any advice or something I could still try that I haven't?

    Thanks,

  40. #890
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

  41. #891
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,662
    It's the brakes, this happens to me constantly on my Troll equipped with BB7 brakes. Squeeze a little harder and it stops, it's simply glazing between the pad and disc. I don't find it to be a big deal. It's a long rigid fork, the forces have to go somewhere when you are braking, if you had suspension the fork would be compressing. It happens mostly because of extended slow speed braking.

  42. #892
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    60
    This is called brake judder. Have the shop check for a bent/misaligned fork, proper hub adjustment, wheel true, spoke tension, and correct headset adjustment. Swap out the caliper, clean the rotor, check everything for proper torque. Basically, everything on the front end needs to be checked.

  43. #893
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    Here's another factor to consider, especially when dealing with a "complete" Surly build (applies to any frame, really)... check to make sure your headtube is faced for your headset, and if you're using a cheaper threadless stem that's cast or painted and/or powdercoated, get your shop mechanic to face the bottom side of the steerer clamp on the stem. May seem like overkill, but it does make a difference in getting the whole stem/headset/fork assembly as snug and trouble-free as possible. I'm always surprised at how many complete frames are assembled without first facing the headtube (and bottom bracket shell).

  44. #894
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by brokebike View Post
    seems odd to be having this problem on such a small frame when, like you've said, you've checked the headset, readjusted the calipers, replaced the pads and the rotor, etc. We don't have REI stores where I live, but do they have actual bike mechanics working there? If not, I would've taken it to a reputable mechanic before returning it to the store... at least then, they could've put another disc wheel on there and adjusted the calipers to it just to rule out that there's something going on with the wheel or hub. Only other thing I can think of is to try another stock Troll fork on there, and maybe that's something the folks at REI would be able to help out with if they had another Troll in stock.

    At any rate, you are having a problem that is not normal, nor is it particular to Trolls, or 18" Trolls. It sucks that you're having to deal with this, but it would also be a shame to let this problem (there's a solution, you just haven't found it yet) rob you of the joys of owning a Troll.

    All REI's (except Grand Junction) have fully qualified mechanics on staff. At least one of which has been to Barnetts Bike School

  45. #895
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sasquatch rides a SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,559
    Most brake issues I've had like this were caused by poor spoke tension from machine built wheels. FWIW I'd check that first.

  46. #896
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,662
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8531396533/" title="Great Divide Canada by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8531396533_879707a351_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Great Divide Canada"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8532505456/" title="Great Divide Canada by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8532505456_581b9cca82_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Great Divide Canada"></a>

  47. #897
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    It's pretty quiet over here on the Troll thread... do Trolls hibernate during the winter or something?
    Not all of them at least:

    Surly Troll-winter_troll.jpg
    My troll having its first bikepacking trip in -20 degrees Celcius

    I want to thank everyone here on the forums for posting pictures and specs of your Trolls! I guess building mine would have taken many trials and errors before becoming what it is now, but with all the helpful posts here it was a pretty smooth ride :).

    Specs for this build:
    18" Orange Surly Troll frameset
    Avid BB7 brakes
    Shimano SLX 3x10 gears + shifters
    BBB Multibar handlebar
    Mavic XC717 rims with Shimano XT hubs
    Nokia Hakka WXC300 for winter
    Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Evolution for summer
    Tubus Cargo rear rack
    SKS P65 fenders

  48. #898
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    381
    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.

  49. #899
    troll
    Reputation: brokebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocco580 View Post
    Anyone know what bars are on that mocked up Troll?
    Which Troll are you referring to?

  50. #900
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rku615's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    209
    Quote Originally Posted by rusheleven View Post
    Is anyone doing any XC or XXC racing on this bike?
    It seems that most of us here are using this bike as a fairly laid back tour set up.
    This bike can certainly be used for racing, albeit about a pound or two heavier than other steel bikes like Ritchey. The geometry is pretty much old school and comfortable for long rides.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •