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Thread: surly ogre

  1. #1301
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    cant remember if i posted this or not,but its not like bike people mind looking at more bikes...

    the latest setup on the ogre,an alfine 8 rear end running a 36/20 combo on schwalbe big apple tires,and jones loop bars...in a word,plush..

    surly ogre-ogre.jpg

  2. #1302
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    Im looking for a used, black Ogre frame in size large. PM me if you've got one.

  3. #1303
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    cant remember if i posted this or not,but its not like bike people mind looking at more bikes...

    the latest setup on the ogre,an alfine 8 rear end running a 36/20 combo on schwalbe big apple tires,and jones loop bars...in a word,plush..

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice!
    Have you had any issues with the alfine slipping? I could never get mine to stay in place.

  4. #1304
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    yes i have noticed it slipping forward in the dropouts on occasion when im pulling a big load in the trailer,im using bob nuts on the end of the alfine hubs to secure it so when i really start hurking away at the pedals im noticing it does slip,im thinking about trying a tugnut in there to see if it stays in place any better or maybe some monkey nuts

  5. #1305
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    I used the tugnut to keep the drive slide from slipping. Used to happen when under a load or heavy peddling. Plus the bottle opener was always handy.
    Last edited by eredinger; 11-13-2014 at 12:34 PM.
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  6. #1306
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    i figured there was a way to work a tugnut in there,just hadnt been sufficiently annoyed by it yet...the chain length was just off for just putting some monkey nuts in there,but of course that would make it even harder to get the wheel off...im actually just about to hook the trailer up and go haul a 100lbs of stuff home...

  7. #1307
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    New ogre...

  8. #1308
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.Colett View Post
    Hello MTBR bike people,
    I have followed this forum for quite a while, gaining inspiration and cherry picking ideas. I was having a difficult time deciding between Ogre frame sizes, as I am 5'10 with a 34" true inseam coming from a 26" wheeled medium Stumpjumper FSR which rides quite cramped compared to the L Ogre frame I decided to go with, but some say that is better for control - I am still not sure because I like using my front wheel to climb obstacles and longer frames help with this, and feel better at speed. When I first received the Ogre and built it I wanted to make a return because of the standover I had with the F100 fork I'll mention later - but I realized the frame fits me almost perfectly for the style of riding I am using the Ogre for when run with its 80mm rigid surly fork, with no standover issues until I am standing just before the head tube over the top tube.

    My riding style is (car-replacement) aggressive off road riding, also ~60-80 mi/wk road, usually with a decent load, trialsy stuff, lots of wheelies, and stairs. Having destroyed a series of hybrid wheelsets (three sets) on a Marin Larkspur frame which was welded crooked and always pulled to the left, I built up a 26" wheeled GT Palomar steel bike with 200mm front disk and rear V brake (braking/wheelies on wet days were SCARY and I flipped over a few times), which was bombproof but weighed in around 36 lbs and I also believe a miscalculation of axle to crown on the surly 1x1 fork I built it with caused the front end to be too high and the resulting seat tube angle meant my saddle was always too far back. Patellar Tendonitis is a huge pain in "the life".

    I live at the top of the Berkeley campus and daily ride down several trail sections on my way to shops or school. I found the Big Ben tires on the 26" GT to hold quite well in loose over hardpack sections, and the Super Moto tires i've been using on the Ogre have been much faster on pavement, similar in dirt, and much smoother overall, even at max psi (which i would always avoid on the 26" big ben tires due to harshness). The smoothness is certainly helped by the 29" wheel size, 2.4" f/r tires (GT had 2.1" rear, 2.4 front) and the lack of a kevlar liner makes for a much lighter tire, even with stans in superlight Qtubes (great idea BTW!) - this is my first true 29er, and has motivated me towards building a 650b king/Ti spoke/i25 wheelset in anticipation of building a larger wheel size enduro bike. I also have procured 29" Trailstar Hans Dampf and 2.4" Nobby Nic tires which really open up the possibilities with the Ogre. I've ridden some very technical stuff off Hwy 9 in Santa Cruz and had no problems rigid. To those of you asking about 100mm forks on the Ogre, I did install an F100 FIT RLC to this Ogre for SF MTB Festival and I had many comments from others regarding impaling myself on the massive steer tube rising 4" above my stem. I couldn't bring myself to take a saw to the fork on a bike not designed for 100mm, meaning I may need more steer tube on a bike designed for 100mm. And the front end was still lifting on climbs with the stem slammed and inverted 16 degrees with a 20mm rise XC bar. I have thought about rebuilding the fork to 80mm, but I think I'd prefer to keep the Ogre as it is crushing the streets and build a second 100mm steel hardtail such as el mariachi or on-one inbred 29 which are designed around 100mm I believe. I would also upgrade a ridig fork to a KM fork or similar to shed 2/3 lb and get a little more flex, as it were 100mm I'm sure I'll have fun scouring for a decent 100mm adjusted rigid fork (anyone?).

    The slack head angle of the Ogre means even with the 80mm rigid fork, an inverted 16 degree stem 100mm length looks parallel to the ground. That lead me towards the Thomson Ti bars which are flat, as I was using the carbon version on my FSR. Climbing is certainly easier and I even raised the stem about 1 inch from the headset now. I have also read that the Shadow XTR rear derailleur's have issues with the Ogre and I was happy to find that the XTR derailleur I had squirreled away was non-shadow and a perfect match to the XTR cranks. XTR 11-34t Cassette as well. To keep things simple and less to worry about theft I went with Avid BB7 and Kool Stop Semi Metallic pads, 200mm front 180mm rear. If you use the surly monkey nuts in fact you can fit a 180mm rotor in the rear and since I was running 26" 180mm on my FSR and wasn't blown away by stopping power I knew I would need this rotor size for the BB7.

    Initially I had many issues with quick release clamps and pitlocks allowing the wheel to move in the dropouts (front AND rear), which is a huge problem when you're using security torx on the calipers and cant easily adjust the brakes. I later found that since I was using Mavic 15mmqr>9mm adapters which sit on either side of the axle of the front wheel, but don't go through it, the compression during hard riding was allowing the hub to flex and shift in the dropouts. I replaced it with a Ritchey 15-9mm adapter which is a solid core that goes through the 15mm hub shell, and since I have not had any axle slip with either QR - OR Pitlock skewers. Great! I experimented as well with over 5 different brands of chain tensioners, MKS, Surly, and some fancy CNC BMX ones. I kept thinking about weight and the MKS tensioners sit inside the frame which makes it a pain to spread the frame and try to tuck the tensioner into the dropout with the rear wheel axle. I should mention also that I was only ever using one tensioner on the disc side, but with monkey nuts I am using one on both sides since they are so light, this is much better and always uniform. My goal was to get the rear wheel as far forward as possible, but when I went to 2.4" nobby nic I realized that it would not fit unless the wheel was pulled back almost to the exact spacing where the monkey nut would set it to, and also very close to where it needs to be for the 180mm rotor to fit into the caliper. Problem solved, and was able to return a few of the tensioners. Once I re-aligned my disc caliper rear to match the monkey nut positioning, I haven't had any movement of the axle in the dropouts or any brake rub after a difficult bit of riding. I am on the fence over tubeless now, if this remains with the Schwalbe Super Moto's I will just use stans in Qtubes for easy sealant changes and no latex scrubbing.

    The wheelset is a Giant P-XC2 Wheelset which is rated similar to Stans Flow, However I have replaced all the factory nipples with Sapim nipples, Linseed oil on the threads and RocknRoll Super Web on the nipple head to rim contact after I had several nipples strip from the usual factor built issues. I bought bontrager strips and stans tape (one or the other but I wasn't sure which would be best) for a tubeless conversion but as it is now it seems unnecessary.

    I've also put alloy bolts in all the threaded bosses on the fork and frame to preserve the threads and give my Ogre some proper warts. It's also difficult to find a pitlock seatclamp in Ogre size, they shipped me what is basically a larger clamp with a cut out aluminum shim to shim it down. I also have to say the Tubus Carry Ti rear rack (2.2 lbs) has been amazing with a lower COG and very light, so it doesnt bother me leaving it on the bike offroad as would the 5.5 lb alloy version. I do run security bolts on the rack as well as a pitlock on one side since it seems to draw a lot of attention. Pairs well with King Cages :]

    Total weight is just under 29 lbs.

    Anyways, Today i did some photo shooting with my Ogre to show you guys what I am going on about. I didn't want to contribute all this rambling and have nothing to show for it.

    Thanks for all your builds and ideas! Enjoy! Long Live the Ogre clan!!

    One of my favorite Ogre builds yet!! The only way I could like that more would be if you had put a Rohloff on it!

  9. #1309
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    Bring on the icy trails!

    surly ogre-20141203_122144%5B1%5D.jpg
    surly ogre-20141203_122122%5B1%5D.jpg

  10. #1310
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    Awesome, looks like the tire still has a nice round profile with the RH rims. You'll be impressed. I'm truly amazed at how well the Ice Spikers work.

  11. #1311
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    Has anyone put any of the smaller 29+ tires on the ogre with a non-rabbit hole rim? Something like the Vee Trax Fatty, Panaracer Fat B Nimble, or the Chupacabra? With all the new 29+ offerings I'm guessing the ogre can take one of these tires as long as you use a non-rabbit hole rim. Also wondering how much clearance you need for it to be OK to ride on. Any and all help appreciated.

  12. #1312
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    surly ogre

    A VTF fit between the stays for me on 28mm rims, one monkey nut. The problem for me was front drivetrain interference, and the narrow rim causes lateral deflection of the tire when getting rad or out of the saddle. It seemed like P35s and single front ring would work. The canti mounts are problematic with such wide tires.

    I tried it for a week, then shelved the tires. I need the Ogre setup for mixed terrain commuting 5 days a week, and the VTFs are out of character for that duty. I will wait for a 29+ specific frame.

  13. #1313
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    650b+ might be the better option.

  14. #1314
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    surly ogre

    Yeah, almost certainly would need to remove the cantis though.

  15. #1315
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    Has anyone put 650B+ tires on an ogre yet? I've heard that the 3.25 650B+ traxx fatty actually come in at around 2.8 which would make them an obvious choice.

  16. #1316
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    Surly Ogre vs Salsa Fargo

    Hi,

    I'm currently looking at getting a do-everything, n=1 bike. Will be used for daily commuting, light singletrack, and possible weekend bikepacking trips around AZ. My choices have narrowed to the Salsa Fargo or Surly Ogre, however, I can't seem to decide between these.

    1. I know these frames aren't designed for it, but since this will be my only bike for the foreseeable future, I'd like to also be able to set it up for occasional road riding (for commuting and road tours). I was thinking of putting some skinny (700x35) tires on either the stock rims or a 2nd wheeset, like these builds:








    Surly Ogre Build - Imgur


    Would this be OK, or will the bottom bracket/pedal stroke be affected too much? Should I instead stick to wider slicks (29" Big Apples, Super Motos, etc.) for riding on road?

    2. I have read the Ogre dropouts can be set up in multiple configurations (ie. SS, internal hub, etc.), and that is definitely something that attracts me to that frame, in case I decide to pursue one of these routes in the future. However, I just learned about the Alternator dropouts for Fargo frames (2014+ model) that seem to be able to do everything the Ogre can. I also read that the Salsa dropouts are easier to work with than Surly's? (Salsa alternator dropout vs Surly dropout?) If this is the case, does one frame have more features that the other is missing?

    3.
    I'm definitely looking at the used market for both bikes, however I would need to factor in the additional cost to set it up to my specs (drop bar, STI shifters, 2x10). While I like how the Ogre frame has clearance for wider tires, I prefer the way the stock complete Fargo is set up (Woodchipper drop bars, 2x10 drivetrain). The Fargo seems to be already 90% there. Are both frames/forks compatible with Anything Cages?

    Thanks, any insights or opinions are welcome.
    Last edited by bosun120; 12-10-2014 at 05:07 PM.

  17. #1317
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    You don't say how heavy you are - Surly frames are likely to be heavier and stiffer than salsa; this might not be a good thing if you're light. Otherwise:

    1. Unless you are fanatical about pedalling around tight corners on the road and/or will be using bulky pedals, then more drop (lower BB) and smaller tyres should be fine on the road. This is personal preference, but I've owned plenty of (road and touring) bikes with lower BBs than either of these with zero problems.

    2. Horizontal dropouts are a bigger PITA to fit and remove wheels from, but are simpler, and probably cheaper. If a Rohlofff hub is likely, then Alternator dropouts will make things much simpler. Otherwise, both frames have similar sets of braze-ons, so it comes down to other things. The geometry is quite different, with the Fargo having a shorter top tube, shorter front centre, longer fork (on current models), and taller head tube. These may or may not matter to you.

    3. Anything Cages will fit both (as will Everything Bags).

  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by satanas View Post
    You don't say how heavy you are - Surly frames are likely to be heavier and stiffer than salsa; this might not be a good thing if you're light. Otherwise:

    1. Unless you are fanatical about pedalling around tight corners on the road and/or will be using bulky pedals, then more drop (lower BB) and smaller tyres should be fine on the road. This is personal preference, but I've owned plenty of (road and touring) bikes with lower BBs than either of these with zero problems.

    2. Horizontal dropouts are a bigger PITA to fit and remove wheels from, but are simpler, and probably cheaper. If a Rohlofff hub is likely, then Alternator dropouts will make things much simpler. Otherwise, both frames have similar sets of braze-ons, so it comes down to other things. The geometry is quite different, with the Fargo having a shorter top tube, shorter front centre, longer fork (on current models), and taller head tube. These may or may not matter to you.

    3. Anything Cages will fit both (as will Everything Bags).
    I agree with the above. Lower BB is just fine and actually preferable for me. The shorter TT/higher HT of the Fargo is to accommodate the drop bars. If you plan to run a drop bar, Fargo would be a better candidate.

    Drop out wise, I love the dead simplicity of the Ogre's. I've had alternator dropouts before on a Salsa and it was more of a pain dealing with that. First, you need 3 different size wrenches to work on the thing, second, I had a hard time lining the wheel up right. Seemed everytime I went to tighten the dropouts, it would move and the wheel would be off-center. Surly's is better/easier in this case.

    Another option - since you'll be using it for commuting the majority of the time (with some mild singletrack thrown in), I'd look at the Straggler or CC as well. They can handle 50mm tires and they're actually very fun off-road. Commuting on pavement would be much better on these bikes than the Ogre.

  19. #1319
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    Singular Cycles in the UK also offer a drop-specific 29er frame (IIRC the Gryphon?), which may be of interest. It has an EBB and vertical dropouts, so things are pretty straightforward if an IGH is likely. Not so many braze-ons for racks, etc as Surlsa though.

    Personally, I wouldn't be very likely to buy one of the current Fargos as I don't like either the very short top tubes or probably annoying overlap, even going up a frame size; if you have short arms and/or torso and very small feet this may not be such a problem.

    With the Surly dropouts and a Rohloff you *will* need to use a chain tensioner (Tuggnut), at least on the RHS, and will likely have to check wheel position every time it is refitted; a bolt-on axle or decent (i.e., Shimano) skewer is needed too. With Alternator dropouts, adjustment will only be needed occasionally, when the chain has worn enough to need retensioning. The rest of the time, removal and refitting will be trivial.

    If you're going to be riding largely on the road, then do you really need the Fargo's high-and-close drop bar MTB fit??? If not, there are lots of other options, including monster cross, 650b rando bikes, etc, etc, all of which will allow more normal fit (if desired) and should also accept lower Q cranks if this matters to you. Drop bars can be fitted to non-drop-specific frames too of course. There are lots of options...

  20. #1320
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    It is brutal out today so I am spending some time catching up on the Ogre thread. You guys inspire with all your nice builds of your Ogre's. Great ideas for those of us that are less up on different builds and techniques. Wishing today for better weather so I can get out on my Ogre again, but -9 deg and 4" of new snow on top of 8" from last week. Just have to dream of rides past and future rides.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails surly ogre-img_0191.jpg  


  21. #1321
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    New here, waiting to give it a first run

    I've been planning to build a steel 29er for road rides and simple trail rides to work out and for the longest time I've had the Salsa El Mar in my head. A friend of mind suggested I look at Surly KM, but as I was reading up on it, I became intrigued by the Ogre. I started lurking this thread and the various builds you guys have and became sold on it.
    Here's my first Surly, just built up with a mix of old and new parts. I intend to use this as a work out bike, hence the set up, but I'm pretty sure I'll end up mounting all sorts of racks available here to make it ready for the occasional ride-out-of-the-city adventure ride.

    surly ogre-16130266456_8ac2d44e96_z_d.jpg

  22. #1322
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    FS Size XL Ogre

    Heres some recent photos of my ogre. surly ogre-img_3198.jpgsurly ogre-img_3199.jpg


    I've been debating for a while but I think the XL frame is a bit too big. Looking to sell or frame swap for something smaller. Will sell the stock build plus 1 extra set of 29er wheels (saguaro by geaux) for $1350 plus shipping or if your in the DC are can meet up. Let me know if you're interested. martin.m.clark@gmail.com
    Last edited by Martin.M.Clark; 01-12-2015 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Selling

  23. #1323
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    Saw this picture over in another thread of an Ogre with 29+ tires:



    Anyone else try this? I've heard the KM won't fit a Knard in the rear, and I always assumed the two frames were the same.

  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Saw this picture over in another thread of an Ogre with 29+ tires:



    Anyone else try this? I've heard the KM won't fit a Knard in the rear, and I always assumed the two frames were the same.
    I've been wondering the same thing, and I've also found a few pictures that support the claim that the ogre can indeed fit 29+ rubber (albeit with minimal clearance). The photo below shows a vee tax fatty attached to a KM with rabbit holes and ver tax fatty's

    Karate Monkey Rohloff 29+ by Cycle Monkey USA, on Flickr

    I'm probably going to take the plunge soon and try it out.

  25. #1325
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    The original poster of the above Ogre later mentioned that the clearance with the Knard was super tight, and wouldn't work with a front derailer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Martin.M.Clark View Post
    I've been wondering the same thing, and I've also found a few pictures that support the claim that the ogre can indeed fit 29+ rubber (albeit with minimal clearance). The photo below shows a vee tax fatty attached to a KM with rabbit holes and ver tax fatty's

    Karate Monkey Rohloff 29+ by Cycle Monkey USA, on Flickr

    I'm probably going to take the plunge soon and try it out.

  26. #1326
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    Has anyone measured the effective chainstay length of an Ogre (or KM) with the rear wheel as far back in the dropouts as is safe? Surly lists the length as 43.1cm but the diagram shows that being a wheel all the way forward in the dropouts.

    I'm interested in a longer wheelbase and would consider an ECR with my current 29'er wheels but my wheels are not disc brake compatible so an ECR frameset AND new wheels just isn't doable. That leaves me with the Ogre.

  27. #1327
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    My old KM looks like it'd be ok at 460ish.

  28. #1328
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    There is a picture floating around here that shows two Monkey Nuts installed on an Ogre (or KM) frame. That would give you (14mm + 14mm + 431mm) a CS length of 459mm.

  29. #1329
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianick View Post
    There is a picture floating around here that shows two Monkey Nuts installed on an Ogre (or KM) frame. That would give you (14mm + 14mm + 431mm) a CS length of 459mm.
    From Surly's blog post about fenders on an Ogre.


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    Thanks!! That helps a lot and is reassuring. I'm still debating between an Ogre and a 26" LHT (and sometimes, a Troll).

  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin.M.Clark View Post
    Has anyone put any of the smaller 29+ tires on the ogre with a non-rabbit hole rim? Something like the Vee Trax Fatty, Panaracer Fat B Nimble, or the Chupacabra? With all the new 29+ offerings I'm guessing the ogre can take one of these tires as long as you use a non-rabbit hole rim. Also wondering how much clearance you need for it to be OK to ride on. Any and all help appreciated.
    I was able to squeeze Gravity Vidars on Blunt 35's into my Ogre, pics here:
    largest tire possible on a ogre

  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by efuss View Post
    I was able to squeeze Gravity Vidars on Blunt 35's into my Ogre, pics here:
    largest tire possible on a ogre
    Did you get any chain Rub? Also what drivetrain setup are you using? 2x10?

  33. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin.M.Clark View Post
    Did you get any chain Rub? Also what drivetrain setup are you using? 2x10?
    No rub, I started with a 2x7 to avoid rub, will try a 9 speed cassette at some point.

  34. #1334
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    I prefer not to run grip-shift for the pleasure of running a $2000 rear wheel. Not sure about the range but I often use 20t/34t pulling loads up steep grades. But the bike is made for it, so I might change my mind one day when I'm a better wheel builder.

  35. #1335
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    Ordered my 18" Ogre frame today. 5'10" 32 inseam. My Vaya is dark gray, so I decided against the black and went with the lighter tarnish gray color. I'm guessing they'll release a killer new color about a week after I get my frame! Actually I think I'm gonna like the tarnish gray. If not, my buddy does powder coating. I already have a 3x9 Mtb drivetrain and a set of 105 brifters if. I decide to go with drop bars. Leaning towards flat bars since I already have the Vaya. I'll be asking questions and posting updates

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry66 View Post
    Ordered my 18" Ogre frame today. ...so I decided against the black and went with the lighter tarnish gray color. I'm guessing they'll release a killer new color about a week after I get my frame! Actually I think I'm gonna like the tarnish gray. If not, my buddy does powder coating.
    For some reason the tarnish gray doesn't photograph well. It's a much nicer color in real life.

  37. #1337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Smith View Post
    For some reason the tarnish gray doesn't photograph well. It's a much nicer color in real life.
    Looks nice enough, even in pictures. But does look great in person. One of my favorite colors.

  38. #1338
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    Quote Originally Posted by scaley View Post
    (2) I'm also torn between going with a 2013 or 2014 model, but from the sounds of it the 2014 has been ED coated (confirm/deny?) which in and of itself seems like it's worth it. And then there are the Jones loop bars, which seem great for longer rides but if I'm spending most of my time on single track are they going to be ideal / worth the difference in price?
    Took delivery on an ED-coated tannish gray back in December, one of the first ED-coated Ogres to arrive in the states. I had emailed Surly quite a while back and they told me that they were slated to arrive, and that another batch is due in this spring. They were very responsive to email. Same pricing. Great bike.

  39. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by MauricioB View Post
    Took delivery on an ED-coated tannish gray back in December, one of the first ED-coated Ogres to arrive in the states. I had emailed Surly quite a while back and they told me that they were slated to arrive, and that another batch is due in this spring. They were very responsive to email. Same pricing. Great bike.
    Just curious how you can tell if a frame is ED coated? I just picked up a new frame last week in tannish gray. Also, I noticed that my frame has a cable mount on the drive side of the seat tube in addition to the cable stop on the back of the seat tube. Looks like it is there to hold the cable so you can run a direct mount front derrailuer. Also it came with a direct mount clamp adapter like the "Problem Solver" one. Not sure if that is old news or not.

  40. #1340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry66 View Post
    Just curious how you can tell if a frame is ED coated?
    The ED coating is black, so one look at the bare steerer tube will tell you whether it's ED coated. There's a photo over here on the fat bike forum that shows an ED coated Pugsley fork.

    I should also mention that the powder coat doesn't seem to stick to the ED coating quite as well as bare metal, so the color coat chips more easily...or at least that's the case on my bike.

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    Decided to Upsize my Ogre from 18 to 20

    I bought an 18 inch Ogre a few years ago and have put some miles on it but not very many since I have never been able to really get comfortable on the bike - its just too small.

    So last month I bit the bullet and decided to get a 20 inch and swap all of my components over. Ahhh! much betterer! I like the green color, but fit is king. The tannish is pretty cool too, it looks good with black parts!

    Now I just need to find a new home for my 18 inch frame.


    surly ogre-img_2221.jpgsurly ogre-img_2227.jpg

    Sorry for the inverted pics, I don't know how that happened or how to fix it.

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    how tall are you, what is your true inseam length?
    what are you asking for the frame?
    thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by B.Colett View Post
    how tall are you, what is your true inseam length?
    what are you asking for the frame?
    thanks
    I'll PM you so we don't turn this into a "for sale" thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flatfendershop View Post
    I'll PM you so we don't turn this into a "for sale" thread.
    I am also interested in the first question (height and inseam). I ride an 18" Ogre and I'm a smidgen under 6' with a 33" inseam.
    Just wondering what your fit is?
    Thanks

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    My floor to crotch measurement is 34". I'm 5' 11" tall.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flatfendershop View Post
    My floor to crotch measurement is 34". I'm 5' 11" tall.
    I was tossing up between the 18" and 20" frames a year ago when I was buying mine. I often find myself between sizes on most mountain bikes but have always felt more comfortable with the smaller of two sizes.
    Good to see that both sizes can work for similar sized individuals based on personal preference.
    Glad you found a fit, I really like my ogre!!

  47. #1347
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatfendershop View Post
    My floor to crotch measurement is 34". I'm 5' 11" tall.
    I'm 5' 11" and have a 32" inseam, or rather I wear 32" inseem pants. Haven't done a more accurate floor to crotch measurement. I ride an 18" ogre and am very comfortable on it, not feeling squished at all, but also getting an upright riding posture.

    Interestingly, about one hour into my ownership of the Ogre, a guy several inches shorter (probably 5' 7" or 5' 8") jumped on it and asked if I had made a mistake in sizing it because it felt perfect to him. I believe he has about the same length legs as me, but prefers a more race oriented position, so I'm thinking it felt OK to him because of that. Anyway, I think my story may have muddied the water a bit more than making it clearer.

    Either way, like potahal says, glad that both of you found good fitting bikes and I really really like my Ogre too.

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    I am always between sizes at 5'10". On road bikes, I prefer a size larger and ride a 56. On mountain bikes, I usually go M or 18/19. I haven't finished my Ogre, but I went 18. I test rode a KM and the 18 was a good base fit. I think with a sweep bar like a Jones, it would be a little cramped. Standard mtb bars with a100 stem were perfect and I think drops would be fine with the 18.
    Last edited by Terry66; 02-17-2015 at 09:53 AM.

  49. #1349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry66 View Post
    I am always between sizes at 5'10". On road bikes, I prefer a size larger and ride a 56. On mountain bikes, I usually go M or 18/19. I haven't finished my Ogre, but I went 18. I test rode a KM and the 18 was a good base fit. I think with a sweep bar like a Jones, it would be a little cramped. Standard mtb bars were perfect and I think drops would be fine with the 18.
    My LBS asked me if I wanted to order some Jones Bars for the Ogre, but like you said, I think it would make it too cramped.

  50. #1350
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    You could always swap out the stem if you really wanted the Jones bars. I'm using a 100 with my riser Mtb bars. Anyone know stem length on the completes with Jones?

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