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Thread: surly ogre

  1. #1251
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    Hi all,
    reading up on the ogre for a while and have now ordered a complete bike (in this strange tanish grey.. wish they still had the olive green). Planned modification to SS, BA tires and fenders, but otherwise will try out what needs to be changed. Will use in flat winter commute first, some light MTB and touring use later. I have 2 first beginners questions:
    1) Many people use Schwalbe BA tires, most often it seems "29*2.35". These tires do not exist on the Schwalbe homepage, the largest size I can find is "28*2.35 (60-622). Are these the same tires? Can you confirm that the 28*2.35 fit on the Ogre?
    2) Which fenders are confirmed to work with the Ogre (even if some tweaking necessary)? I found the Planet Bike Cascadia for 29", but any others, perhaps more easily available in Europe?

    cheers!

  2. #1252
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    28" is what the Germans call a 700c over 30ish, god knows why. A 28" tire (622 ISO) is just a wide 700, which is also called a 29". Yes, it is the same tire.

    SKS, more Germans, make the CHROMOPLASTICS is a "P65" size that I believe with work with those tires. SKS Germany

  3. #1253
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    28" is what the Germans call a 700c over 30ish, god knows why. A 28" tire (622 ISO) is just a wide 700, which is also called a 29". Yes, it is the same tire.

    SKS, more Germans, make the CHROMOPLASTICS is a "P65" size that I believe with work with those tires. SKS Germany
    Thanks! Did order the BA's and some SKS Bluemels in 28"and p65. Germans.. what can I say... they are a bit strange (German myself)
    Last edited by TLA; 08-01-2014 at 12:57 AM.

  4. #1254
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    ordered my ogre fame yesterday ... a green XL/22", the very last frame the supplier had left over from last years stock ... awesome, happy about that!

    i guess next week will be busy removing stuff off the el mariachi

    mainly a commuter, but also riding some singletrack on the way home and maybe look at some touring in the future too ... got some awesome ideas off these pages, thanks to all for their posts, pics and efforts!
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  5. #1255
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    Hi Hoogie,
    lucky that you got a green frame - IMHO this green is THE classic color for the Ogre. Well - will have to live with the grey (not many people have posted pictures in this frame color.. will see how it looks in real life). I guess even Surly felt that they had to change frame colors every year. The black was not an option for me - somehow I always only liked matte black colors, so shiny black was out of the question. Will get the bike today or tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by hoogie View Post
    ordered my ogre fame yesterday ... a green XL/22", the very last frame the supplier had left over from last years stock ... awesome, happy about that!

    i guess next week will be busy removing stuff off the el mariachi

    mainly a commuter, but also riding some singletrack on the way home and maybe look at some touring in the future too ... got some awesome ideas off these pages, thanks to all for their posts, pics and efforts!

  6. #1256
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    Just out of curiosity why are you not riding the El Mar?

    Quote Originally Posted by hoogie View Post
    ordered my ogre fame yesterday ... a green XL/22", the very last frame the supplier had left over from last years stock ... awesome, happy about that!

    i guess next week will be busy removing stuff off the el mariachi

    mainly a commuter, but also riding some singletrack on the way home and maybe look at some touring in the future too ... got some awesome ideas off these pages, thanks to all for their posts, pics and efforts!

  7. #1257
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    Quote Originally Posted by drews256 View Post
    Just out of curiosity why are you not riding the El Mar?
    i do ride the el mar, it is my commuter at present ... i have a swift as a steel rigid 29er ...

    my el mar is the spangly rojo red one, a very nice bike but it attracts too much attention, paint gets chipped easily, and it is awkward to attach rear and front rack and my older model bob.yak trailer doesn't fit ... it was in really good nick and too good to pass up and i got this frame quite cheap and it was always a short term project ...

    the bit that really annoyed me was the back wheel keeps on going out of alignment in the dropouts by a little bit, just enough to cause the brake rotor to rub on the disc pads and rub/squeal ... i undo the skewer, reseat the wheel, spin it and all is good ... 100m down the road and it rubs and squeaks again ... have replaced the skewer and tried a few other things to no avail ...

    i was looking at a gryphon, i do like the concept but after some trial and error, the drop bar idea just doesn't work for me ...

    plus i do like to upgrade my toys ... my worst fear is that when i pass on, my wife will sell them for what i told her i paid for them ...

    the ogre looks like it will do everything i want ... sturdy, robust, understated, be mainly used as a commuter, can tackle some trails on the way to and from work, do some light touring and can tow my old bob.yak [ the stays on the trailer won't fit a 29er, i can't source replacement/upgrades here in NZ and the couple of shops i have tried won't send the bits overseas ...]
    Last edited by hoogie; 08-10-2014 at 09:50 PM. Reason: missed a bit ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  8. #1258
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    Sorry guys .. another beginner question: So I got my Ogre (a bit banged up from brutal shipping) and tried to swap the stock tires with the Big Apples in 28*2.35 (60-622). Now the rear tire has contact with the front derailleur. Should I try to move the derailleur around (I would rather not) or move the wheel back in the dropouts? If I move the wheel back, how can I make sure it is fixed exactly symetrical on both sides?

  9. #1259
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLA View Post
    Sorry guys .. another beginner question: So I got my Ogre (a bit banged up from brutal shipping) and tried to swap the stock tires with the Big Apples in 28*2.35 (60-622). Now the rear tire has contact with the front derailleur. Should I try to move the derailleur around (I would rather not) or move the wheel back in the dropouts? If I move the wheel back, how can I make sure it is fixed exactly symetrical on both sides?
    I would move the wheel back in the drop outs. I know it says that the plastic monkey nuts that the bike comes with are not a permanent solution but mine don't leave the frame and I have like 4000 miles or so on them. Also if you are trying to keep the wheel straight I find that if you are squatting behind the back of the bike so you can pull on both sides of the axle than you can keep everything lined up rather nicely. Also just barely release the axle so the wheel can move back and then you can keep everything straight in the dropouts that way too. It takes a little bit of practice but it isn't that hard.

    edit:
    This is more about fenders but here is a good article about running fun things on your ogre. Ogre, Fenders and You | Blog | Surly Bikes

  10. #1260
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    Thanks! Not sure what monkey nuts are, and they were not included with the bike (or explained in the one-pager that came with the bike). Will read up some more to find out and try to move wheel back and keep it aligned.

  11. #1261
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLA View Post
    Thanks! Not sure what monkey nuts are, and they were not included with the bike (or explained in the one-pager that came with the bike). Will read up some more to find out and try to move wheel back and keep it aligned.
    Maybe it was an Ogre 1.0 thing. But here is another link. Small Parts | Parts and Accessories | Surly Bikes
    I hope that helps.

  12. #1262
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLA View Post
    Thanks! Not sure what monkey nuts are, and they were not included with the bike (or explained in the one-pager that came with the bike). Will read up some more to find out and try to move wheel back and keep it aligned.
    The monkey nutz are little aluminum shims that were included with your surly OGRE if you bought it new. They are in a little package/plastic. I didnt like them but installed them because my tire was rubbing the read deraileur. They look like they dont work, but I rode it 12 miles on its maiden voyage, and so far so good

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    Need a bit of brainstorming from anyone using Shimano Deore brakes on the Ogre. I am on the second set of rear brakes for Ogre because nipple is leaking/sipping oil. I torqued to the spec but that does not improve a bit. I suspect it has something to do with the position of the caliper on the Ogre, a bit of a downward tilt... Shimano replaced older 595 with a new m610 but that is not fixing it, after 3 rides I see oil sippage around the nipple, eventually it will lead to the oil contamination of the pads. Anyone has seen this issue, thoughts, advice?

    Thanks!

  14. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLA View Post
    Hi Hoogie,
    lucky that you got a green frame - IMHO this green is THE classic color for the Ogre. Well - will have to live with the grey (not many people have posted pictures in this frame color.. will see how it looks in real life). I guess even Surly felt that they had to change frame colors every year. The black was not an option for me - somehow I always only liked matte black colors, so shiny black was out of the question. Will get the bike today or tomorrow
    know what you mean, the shiny black is an interesting colour, reminds me of the the thorn nomad i had a few years ago ...

    the beast has arrived, and it has been built up ... just playing about with it at present and seeing what works ... need to add a rear rack and swap the handlebars from lo-risers to flat and bar ends ...

    surprisingly, lots of positive comments about the green colour, most from non-cyclists too ...

    impressed with the versatility of this bike, feels like it is solid and can handle anything ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  15. #1265
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    So for all you running your Ogre SS with fenders and a rear rack, how annoying is it to change the rear tire?

  16. #1266
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    So for all you running your Ogre SS with fenders and a rear rack, how annoying is it to change the rear tire?
    It takes some practice.

  17. #1267
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    Ride more!

  18. #1268
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoogie View Post
    know what you mean, the shiny black is an interesting colour, reminds me of the the thorn nomad i had a few years ago ...

    the beast has arrived, and it has been built up ... just playing about with it at present and seeing what works ... need to add a rear rack and swap the handlebars from lo-risers to flat and bar ends ...

    surprisingly, lots of positive comments about the green colour, most from non-cyclists too ...

    impressed with the versatility of this bike, feels like it is solid and can handle anything ...
    I totally wanted a green OGRE, but it only came in the Grey. After I got it, the color grew on me. It looks quite nice in real life.
    I also got a LHT Deluxe this summer with the S&S couplers. In the pictures, I couldnt stand the baby blue, but that is the only way it comes. Here again, that baby blue (Daves Icy Tears) grew on me. Somehow Surly makes cool colors.

  19. #1269
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLA View Post
    Hi all,
    reading up on the ogre for a while and have now ordered a complete bike (in this strange tanish grey.. wish they still had the olive green). Planned modification to SS, BA tires and fenders, but otherwise will try out what needs to be changed. Will use in flat winter commute first, some light MTB and touring use later. I have 2 first beginners questions:
    1) Many people use Schwalbe BA tires, most often it seems "29*2.35". These tires do not exist on the Schwalbe homepage, the largest size I can find is "28*2.35 (60-622). Are these the same tires? Can you confirm that the 28*2.35 fit on the Ogre?
    2) Which fenders are confirmed to work with the Ogre (even if some tweaking necessary)? I found the Planet Bike Cascadia for 29", but any others, perhaps more easily available in Europe?

    cheers!
    The gray will grow on you.
    The 28 is the same as the 29. I dont know why, but I got 28 schwalbe BA's, and they fit on my 29er Velocity BLUNT wheels. And look totally Boss on my Gray OGRE.

  20. #1270
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcitizen1 View Post
    So for all you running your Ogre SS with fenders and a rear rack, how annoying is it to change the rear tire?
    No biggie.
    Just got to be done with tire deflated.
    (Mine IGH but I assume same as SS removal).

  21. #1271
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    Yup I have to air down the back tire to remove the wheel too. Fenders are worth it.

    On another note:

    I've been loving my Ogre for a while but I've determined that the medium I bought is a bit small for me. Any chance anyone wants to trade me for their large? I am talking frame and fork only. I'll send pictures to anyone interested. Mine is the Army Green one.
    -Scott

  22. #1272
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    surly ogre


    Just got the Duallys mounted up with a Knard up front and a 2.4 Ardent rear.

  23. #1273
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    Quote Originally Posted by RolledMeat View Post

    Just got the Duallys mounted up with a Knard up front and a 2.4 Ardent rear.
    Very nice! I've been thinking about that same setup. Would you be so kind as to post some pics of front and rear tire clearance? I'd also love to hear your thoughts on how it handles with the big meats.

  24. #1274
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    surly ogre

    Will do. I'll tell you that frame and fork clearance is fine but I had to push the the front tire between the v brake posts. The rear tire is only a millimeter or two from the stock front derailleur so I'm looking at other options for that. I'll report back with a handling update. I only have a few miles on it so far.

  25. #1275
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    I'd hold off on buying the shifters and der if you want to run 10sp. Microshift just released 10sp Shimano MTB compatible barends and it sounds like Gevenalle is working on adapting them.

    I'm thinking of doing a 1x10 11-42 drivetrain with a clutch der and Gevenalle on the Krampus I'm planning.

  26. #1276
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    Quote Originally Posted by asphaltdude View Post
    Bought this lightly used Ogre frame to replace my Monocog frame, and added the J-Bar, and though it feels slightly different than Monocog, it felt just right from the first ride.

    Should give the J-Bar a new wrap though, and maybe get a black saddle.
    Hey asphaltdude, did you swap everything from your monocog to the ogre frame? If so, did you have any fit issues? I have a 2012 cog that I'm considering doing something similar and was wondering what surly frame would work.

  27. #1277
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    Replaced the BB (MC has 68mm BB shell, Ogre 73) and seatpost (MC 26,8mm Ogre 27,2)

    Apart from that you can swap everything.

    The KM/Ogre has a shorter top tube than the MC btw, and you can get a shorter chainstay length if you want.
    To me the Ogre feels a bit quicker steering/more playful than the MC, but though it feels different, I liked it from the very beginning.
    Last edited by asphaltdude; 09-30-2014 at 04:00 AM.
    Ride more!

  28. #1278
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    Has anyone tried a Krampus fork on their Ogre? I'm going to put a rabbit hole wheelset on mine. I'm wondering if adding the Krampus fork would make it handle more like a Krampus? Or would it suck? Thoughts?

  29. #1279
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    you can fit a rabbit hole with knard on the ogre fork no worries, you'll only fit a rabbit hole with 2.4 ardent or similar on the rear from experience.

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    Thanks for the info. I already have the Ardent on my shelf. Plans are to set it up just like yours. I'd love to hear your take on how it rides.

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    one word, plush

  33. #1283
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    Played around last night with the rabbit holes. Mounted an Ardent 2.4 on the rear and a Ground Control 2.3 on the front(while I wait for the Knard to arrive). The 50mm rims really spread the tires out. The (new in package) Ardent 2.4 measured 2.5" exactly after mounting. I also happen to have an Ardent 2.4 mounted to a WTB i23 rim, where it's been for over a year. It measured 2.35" on the i23 rim. Not a huge difference in width but I think there is a big difference in overall volume. I rolled around the neighborhood at about 19psi in the 2.3/4 tires. It was very nice! The lower pressure made the ride much more plush I can't wait to get these on the trail!

  34. #1284
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    My Ogre so far....

    surly ogre-bikefront-bike.jpgMy Ogre so far. It is my first bike build, and I didnt have a clue what I was doing. I figured it all out on youtube and forums. I didnt have anyone, really, to get any advise from.
    It has been a fun project. I got a BOB trailer to go with it. I attached BOB NUTZ to the frame, and that seems to work OK.

  35. #1285
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    Looks good, I see you found a place to attach a trekking bar.

  36. #1286
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    ---- sold
    Last edited by moghyukon; 12-07-2014 at 05:20 AM.

  37. #1287
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    650B+ on an Ogre?

    Anyone know if these tires will work on an Ogre? I imagine so. Seems like the BB height wouldn't change that much.

    Trailblazer | WTB
    All good expeditions should be simple in concept, difficult in their execution and satisfying to remember--Alastair Humphreys

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  39. #1289
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    Morning All

    I have had Ogre lust for some time and been stalking this thread but up until this point have not had a good enough reason to purchase.

    My cross bike has died (cracked chainstay) and am now seriously thinking about replacing with an Ogre frameset and just swapping parts over. I just need a bit of advice / reassurance that the parts I have are going to work!

    Bike will be used for touring, long distance road riding, farm/ dirt tracks and a bit of single track.

    For some of you the initial build is probably going to sound just wrong on several levels but its going to be a long term project and planning on upgrading and swapping some parts and having a couple of wheel sets to swap out, maybe even Rohloff eventually.

    Gears are Campagnolo Veloce 10speed and am going to run Ergo levers on either dirt drops or moustache bars. I have a couple of different stems so can mess around with spacers and stem length to get a comfortable riding position.

    Wheels are Shimano dynamo front hub and Hope road rear spaced to 135mm built on H Plus SON Archetypes which will run 35c rubber. Will eventually get a second wheel set for off road / fat rubber.

    First off, is there any reason why the Campy mechs and shifters won't work on the Ogre? Is there a way of routing the front mech cable so its down pull or will I have to buy another mech for top pull (or go 1 x 10?)

    Chainset is currently Sugino XD double with 50/34. I'll probably change the large chain ring to 46 or 48 and as it's square taper will be able to mess around with BB lengths to push it out a bit if necessary. Is anyone else using a road/ touring double chain set and what chain ring clearance is the most comfortable?

    Think that's it for the moment, just can't wait to get started!!

    Cheers

    Chris

  40. #1290
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    FYI, I've been unimpressed enough with Ergos and Avid road BB-7 brakes that I'm relocating the Ergos to another bike, and fitting Tektro RL-520 brake levers and BB-7 mountain brakes and bar-end shifters. Provided you're happy to stick with cantis (or perhaps use V brakes with travel agents) things should be okay, but Ergos plus discs are hideously spongy IME, and it's difficult to find long enough Campag brake cables to reach rear discs too.

    It's also difficult to find rims wider than 23mm (external) with brake tracks for rim brakes in 700/29". There are light disc rims, and reasonably wide light-ish 26" rims, but in 622 for rim brakes not so much.

    As for the cranks, the most important things are chainline and Q factor. I like to keep things as narrow as I can (YMMV), and so usually use square taper cranks with the shortest spindle I can get away with, leaving minimal crank/chainring clearance to the stays. If it doesn't hit, then there's enough room, which for me means 1-2mm inner ring clearance, and ~2-3+ mm crankarm clearance. If you ride in mud a lot and care about scuffing paint you may want more room, but I don't.

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  42. #1292
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    ok so I used to have an Ogre, then I got a Straggler. Now I miss my Ogre. Anyone looking to get rid of their Ogre either for cash or for a Straggler/frame set! Ready. Set. Go!

  43. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by .kit View Post
    ok so I used to have an Ogre, then I got a Straggler. Now I miss my Ogre. Anyone looking to get rid of their Ogre either for cash or for a Straggler/frame set! Ready. Set. Go!
    What size is the straggler frame. How much do you want for it?

  44. #1294
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    52cm looking for a sm or med ogre. Right now I have the straggler built up if you are interested in complete or just frame, send me a pm.

  45. #1295
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    ok so i stripped my ogre of all the aftermarket parts to build up my karate monkey as my dedicated mountain bike and i am now wanting to put my ogre back together as a do it all bike I'm looking for some ideas on a wheel set i would like them to be disc and rim brake compatible and also would like them to be able to run tubeless
    is there any tubeless ready dual duty wheels that you would recommend.

    sorry posted this in the wrong place will make a new thread
    Last edited by 05kas05; 11-03-2014 at 07:11 AM.
    surly karate monkey
    surly ogre

  46. #1296
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    Had no trouble setting up the stock Alex Adventurer (2013) tubeless with stock Exiwolf's. Now have 41c Knards on that rim.

  47. #1297
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    Quote Originally Posted by alaskadude View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bikefront bike.jpg 
Views:	485 
Size:	182.6 KB 
ID:	930318My Ogre so far. It is my first bike build, and I didnt have a clue what I was doing. I figured it all out on youtube and forums. I didnt have anyone, really, to get any advise from.
    It has been a fun project. I got a BOB trailer to go with it. I attached BOB NUTZ to the frame, and that seems to work OK.
    Nicely done!

  48. #1298
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    edit:
    how to delete?

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    An Ogre Lured Out of its Cave for a Mushroom Hunt

    Hello MTBR bike people,
    I have followed this forum for quite a while, gaining inspiration and cherry picking ideas. I was having a difficult time deciding between Ogre frame sizes, as I am 5'10 with a 34" true inseam coming from a 26" wheeled medium Stumpjumper FSR which rides quite cramped compared to the L Ogre frame I decided to go with, but some say that is better for control - I am still not sure because I like using my front wheel to climb obstacles and longer frames help with this, and feel better at speed. When I first received the Ogre and built it I wanted to make a return because of the standover I had with the F100 fork I'll mention later - but I realized the frame fits me almost perfectly for the style of riding I am using the Ogre for when run with its 80mm rigid surly fork, with no standover issues until I am standing just before the head tube over the top tube.

    My riding style is (car-replacement) aggressive off road riding, also ~60-80 mi/wk road, usually with a decent load, trialsy stuff, lots of wheelies, and stairs. Having destroyed a series of hybrid wheelsets (three sets) on a Marin Larkspur frame which was welded crooked and always pulled to the left, I built up a 26" wheeled GT Palomar steel bike with 200mm front disk and rear V brake (braking/wheelies on wet days were SCARY and I flipped over a few times), which was bombproof but weighed in around 36 lbs and I also believe a miscalculation of axle to crown on the surly 1x1 fork I built it with caused the front end to be too high and the resulting seat tube angle meant my saddle was always too far back. Patellar Tendonitis is a huge pain in "the life".

    I live at the top of the Berkeley campus and daily ride down several trail sections on my way to shops or school. I found the Big Ben tires on the 26" GT to hold quite well in loose over hardpack sections, and the Super Moto tires i've been using on the Ogre have been much faster on pavement, similar in dirt, and much smoother overall, even at max psi (which i would always avoid on the 26" big ben tires due to harshness). The smoothness is certainly helped by the 29" wheel size, 2.4" f/r tires (GT had 2.1" rear, 2.4 front) and the lack of a kevlar liner makes for a much lighter tire, even with stans in superlight Qtubes (great idea BTW!) - this is my first true 29er, and has motivated me towards building a 650b king/Ti spoke/i25 wheelset in anticipation of building a larger wheel size enduro bike. I also have procured 29" Trailstar Hans Dampf and 2.4" Nobby Nic tires which really open up the possibilities with the Ogre. I've ridden some very technical stuff off Hwy 9 in Santa Cruz and had no problems rigid. To those of you asking about 100mm forks on the Ogre, I did install an F100 FIT RLC to this Ogre for SF MTB Festival and I had many comments from others regarding impaling myself on the massive steer tube rising 4" above my stem. I couldn't bring myself to take a saw to the fork on a bike not designed for 100mm, meaning I may need more steer tube on a bike designed for 100mm. And the front end was still lifting on climbs with the stem slammed and inverted 16 degrees with a 20mm rise XC bar. I have thought about rebuilding the fork to 80mm, but I think I'd prefer to keep the Ogre as it is crushing the streets and build a second 100mm steel hardtail such as el mariachi or on-one inbred 29 which are designed around 100mm I believe. I would also upgrade a ridig fork to a KM fork or similar to shed 2/3 lb and get a little more flex, as it were 100mm I'm sure I'll have fun scouring for a decent 100mm adjusted rigid fork (anyone?).

    The slack head angle of the Ogre means even with the 80mm rigid fork, an inverted 16 degree stem 100mm length looks parallel to the ground. That lead me towards the Thomson Ti bars which are flat, as I was using the carbon version on my FSR. Climbing is certainly easier and I even raised the stem about 1 inch from the headset now. I have also read that the Shadow XTR rear derailleur's have issues with the Ogre and I was happy to find that the XTR derailleur I had squirreled away was non-shadow and a perfect match to the XTR cranks. XTR 11-34t Cassette as well. To keep things simple and less to worry about theft I went with Avid BB7 and Kool Stop Semi Metallic pads, 200mm front 180mm rear. If you use the surly monkey nuts in fact you can fit a 180mm rotor in the rear and since I was running 26" 180mm on my FSR and wasn't blown away by stopping power I knew I would need this rotor size for the BB7.

    Initially I had many issues with quick release clamps and pitlocks allowing the wheel to move in the dropouts (front AND rear), which is a huge problem when you're using security torx on the calipers and cant easily adjust the brakes. I later found that since I was using Mavic 15mmqr>9mm adapters which sit on either side of the axle of the front wheel, but don't go through it, the compression during hard riding was allowing the hub to flex and shift in the dropouts. I replaced it with a Ritchey 15-9mm adapter which is a solid core that goes through the 15mm hub shell, and since I have not had any axle slip with either QR - OR Pitlock skewers. Great! I experimented as well with over 5 different brands of chain tensioners, MKS, Surly, and some fancy CNC BMX ones. I kept thinking about weight and the MKS tensioners sit inside the frame which makes it a pain to spread the frame and try to tuck the tensioner into the dropout with the rear wheel axle. I should mention also that I was only ever using one tensioner on the disc side, but with monkey nuts I am using one on both sides since they are so light, this is much better and always uniform. My goal was to get the rear wheel as far forward as possible, but when I went to 2.4" nobby nic I realized that it would not fit unless the wheel was pulled back almost to the exact spacing where the monkey nut would set it to, and also very close to where it needs to be for the 180mm rotor to fit into the caliper. Problem solved, and was able to return a few of the tensioners. Once I re-aligned my disc caliper rear to match the monkey nut positioning, I haven't had any movement of the axle in the dropouts or any brake rub after a difficult bit of riding. I am on the fence over tubeless now, if this remains with the Schwalbe Super Moto's I will just use stans in Qtubes for easy sealant changes and no latex scrubbing.

    The wheelset is a Giant P-XC2 Wheelset which is rated similar to Stans Flow, However I have replaced all the factory nipples with Sapim nipples, Linseed oil on the threads and RocknRoll Super Web on the nipple head to rim contact after I had several nipples strip from the usual factor built issues. I bought bontrager strips and stans tape (one or the other but I wasn't sure which would be best) for a tubeless conversion but as it is now it seems unnecessary.

    I've also put alloy bolts in all the threaded bosses on the fork and frame to preserve the threads and give my Ogre some proper warts. It's also difficult to find a pitlock seatclamp in Ogre size, they shipped me what is basically a larger clamp with a cut out aluminum shim to shim it down. I also have to say the Tubus Carry Ti rear rack (2.2 lbs) has been amazing with a lower COG and very light, so it doesnt bother me leaving it on the bike offroad as would the 5.5 lb alloy version. I do run security bolts on the rack as well as a pitlock on one side since it seems to draw a lot of attention. Pairs well with King Cages :]

    Total weight is just under 29 lbs.

    Anyways, Today i did some photo shooting with my Ogre to show you guys what I am going on about. I didn't want to contribute all this rambling and have nothing to show for it.

    Thanks for all your builds and ideas! Enjoy! Long Live the Ogre clan!!
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    Last edited by B.Colett; 11-08-2014 at 04:30 PM. Reason: better image quality..

  50. #1300
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.Colett View Post
    Hello MTBR bike people,

    ...

    Thanks for all your builds and ideas! Enjoy! Long Live the Ogre clan!!
    Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. I'm an inch taller than you but with shorter legs, so for me, an 18" stock build me perfectly. I feel like I am riding in my bike and not on top of it, which I think is good for the longer cross-country/commute rides I like to do.

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