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Thread: surly ogre

  1. #1151
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    Scaley, I'm 5'11 and have a book jammed 32" inseam. I ride an 18" KM with a 90 mm stem. My center of crank to top of seat is 76 cm. The wifey is 5'5 and rides a 16" KM. We're both showing about 8" of seat post. Unless you're really, really proud of your seat post, I'd say get the 18 and enjoy not having toe overlap issues. At our height, the discussion us usually around 18" or 20".
    Best to ya,
    klm

  2. #1152
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankZappa6 View Post
    Scaley, I'm 5'11 and have a book jammed 32" inseam. I ride an 18" KM with a 90 mm stem. My center of crank to top of seat is 76 cm. The wifey is 5'5 and rides a 16" KM. We're both showing about 8" of seat post. Unless you're really, really proud of your seat post, I'd say get the 18 and enjoy not having toe overlap issues. At our height, the discussion us usually around 18" or 20".
    Best to ya,
    klm
    This is extremely helpful, particularly since it sounds like we are pretty close in dimensions. I was heavily leaning toward the Medium but a little extra confirmation never hurts. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the trigger on the 18"!!!

    Now the only thing I wish I could get confirmation on is whether the 2014 Ogre frame was ED coated. I called Surly and even the person I spoke with wasn't sure because apparently they started it somewhere about 1/2 way through the 2014 updated frames. If the 2014 isn't ED coated, I'm sticking with 2013 Army (Shrek Ogre) Green and saving a few bucks. Thanks again!

  3. #1153
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    Quote Originally Posted by scaley View Post
    This is extremely helpful, particularly since it sounds like we are pretty close in dimensions. I was heavily leaning toward the Medium but a little extra confirmation never hurts. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the trigger on the 18"!!!

    Now the only thing I wish I could get confirmation on is whether the 2014 Ogre frame was ED coated. I called Surly and even the person I spoke with wasn't sure because apparently they started it somewhere about 1/2 way through the 2014 updated frames. If the 2014 isn't ED coated, I'm sticking with 2013 Army (Shrek Ogre) Green and saving a few bucks. Thanks again!

    i believe the only thing that is getting ED is the krampus and the ECR until later in 2014.

  4. #1154
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    The Straggler and ECR are the only ED coated bikes, though I imagine this will change soon.

  5. #1155
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    forgot the straggler...
    Quote Originally Posted by ScaryJerry View Post
    The Straggler and ECR are the only ED coated bikes, though I imagine this will change soon.

  6. #1156
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    Quote Originally Posted by iphilrive View Post
    forgot the straggler...
    Thanks to both of you for the info. Looks like I can save a few bucks by going with a 2013 if I want to without losing out on that since it doesn't exist.

  7. #1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by scaley View Post
    Hi all, I'm new to the forum but after a long (2-3 month) period of internet sleuthing, multiple visits to bike shops, searching the forums, and just pure obsession I am turning to you in hopes of answering a few questions before I pull the trigger on a 2013 or 2014 Ogre.

    (1) Frame Size / Fit: I have searched the forums and read pretty much everything I can but since no one in my region has an Ogre/KM to directly test I'm stuck with comparisons when it comes to sizing. Obviously, given the cost of special ordering I want to get this correct. Getting to the point, I am 5'11" with a 31" inseam. In other words I am a bit of a short-legged, long torso freak, which makes sizing bikes a bit difficult as I am always between two sizes it seems. I currently ride (and Love) a 56cm Surly LHT and I also have an 18.5" Jamis Komodo FX 2 from back in the day.

    I've pretty much been going on the effective top tube recommendation (as per Surly's blog) for sizing the Ogre. Using my LHT as a guide (ETT=22.4), and based on the published geometry of the Ogre, that would correspond to a Small (ETT=22.7). However, using my Jamis as a guide which is a bit longer in the TT, and some conversations with other bike shop folks, it seems the Medium (18in) may be more appropriate.

    So, my question is: Based on your riding experience, what frame size would you lean me toward given this info? Also, I am planning on tasking this this as a 80% trail bike with 20% commuting and longer off-road tours, so I want it to feel playful enough on single track, yet comfortable for longer rides.

    (2) I'm also torn between going with a 2013 or 2014 model, but from the sounds of it the 2014 has been ED coated (confirm/deny?) which in and of itself seems like it's worth it. And then there are the Jones loop bars, which seem great for longer rides but if I'm spending most of my time on single track are they going to be ideal / worth the difference in price? I know a lot of this comes down to personal preference, but I guess I'm just looking for a bit more practical advice.

    Any help is appreciated.
    I'm 5'11" with an 85-86cm PBH (@33"). My only experience is from a test ride at an LBS but looking at the sizing chart on Surly's website, I was leaning toward a 20" being right but after riding an 18" at the LBS, I can't imagine going bigger than that for something I'll ride off-road.

    I think you are on the right track in using eff T-T length. I prefer a shorter T-T and even the 18" Ogre is pushing it. Based on BikeCad, using 45mm of spacers and an 80mm, 40 degree stem, I can JUST get the handlebars where I want them on an 18". A 20".......no way. I'd be too stretched out to be comfortable.

    In fact, a Salsa Fargo is probably a better bike for me personally but I'm a long way from switching over to disc brakes. I like my V-brakes!

  8. #1158
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    Ogre Size/Model year.

    Not sure who originally asked the question, just got it in y e-mail...


    I took the leap of faith last April on an Ogre, and have enjoyed it a lot. I have heard a few Karate Monkey guys grumble "NOT a Karate Monkey!", but if you check the frame geometry as per Surly Website it is, and more. Meaning you will have fun on the beast.

    I hear you about no bikes to try. I live in Alaska, and had to get a bike shipped to an adjacent town, and then flown to me on a bush plane. I am now spending the winter in Murica', and STILL can't find an ECR to test, (in Eugene OR, for Pete's sake, with about a dozen shops). Curious, mostly, about the fatter rubber for some uses.

    I'm 6'2", 34" inseam, and the Large (20") fits great for stand-over. I like and need a shorter Cockpit, so shortened and angled the stem. Since no one would ship one direct, and it had to go through a shop, (What's With That?!?), the young clowns cut the steer tube to minimum by assumption, and I had to juggle stems a bit, and now have a good fit, but wish they had left my steer tube length for me to decide. As it sits, the Large is as big as I would want it.

    Point being, I guess, that a medium sounds good for your dimensions.

    As far as 2013/14 goes, I did the swap to Jones Loop and Thumbies before I knew Surly was going that route. My use mixes rough commuting with trail riding, and the normal width Jones works great for me. HATED the stock shifters on the 2013, had to twist way under the bar with the thumb to climb the cogs. The thumbies work perfect.

    The 2013 tire wheel set up has been fine. You can make it work No Tubes, too, with a little patience and some fiber tape.

    Have fun
    Kevin

  9. #1159
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    @Corwin1968: Thanks for this bit of information. It definitely seems like the 18" occupies that sacred middle ground.

    @kbbob: I agree that the 2014 shift (no pun intended) to the Jones loop bars alone seems worth the upgrade.

  10. #1160
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    Hello fellow ogres. I have a question about installing fenders on the Ogre. I've read people's posts about the front derailleur cable touching the rear fender or being close to a big tire. I'm wondering if you couldn't just pull the FD cable closer to the curve in the seat tube. I'm thinking of cutting a 1 to 2 inch piece of old cable housing and attaching it to the seat tube where the cable is closest to the tire. I'd attach it with some heavy duty zip ties or maybe some metal clamps like these: Problem Solvers. Then just run the cable through that cable housing to get more clearance.

    Has anyone tried this already? Anyone know of a reason I shouldn't try this? As long as there isn't too much drag on the cable, it should work ok, right? I just thought I'd check if anyone else had tried something similar before I give it a go. Thanks!

  11. #1161
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    Does re-routing the cable change the cable pull ratio at the front mech?

  12. #1162
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Does re-routing the cable change the cable pull ratio at the front mech?
    i don't think it does much with the shifters as much as it does with the brakes.

  13. #1163
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    Kind of a Jerry rig but it may work. FYI I have been able to mount some PB Cascadias with the stock 2.3 tires by changing to a low clamp derailer.

  14. #1164
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Does re-routing the cable change the cable pull ratio at the front mech?
    Here's a picture demonstrating the cable "re-alignment" I'm imagining:surly ogre-img_20140129_190359.jpg

    Does that count as "re-routing"? I don't know anything about cable pull ratios, but I can't imagine this would affect how it shifts much, if at all. I guess I'll wait until I try to install fenders and see if this cable tweak is even needed.

  15. #1165
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    only one way to find out

  16. #1166
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    Any of you guys singlespeed commuting? What gearing are you running?

  17. #1167
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    That will not change "pull ratios" and should not effect shifting if done right.

  18. #1168
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    Quote Originally Posted by phazedalx View Post
    Any of you guys singlespeed commuting? What gearing are you running?
    Ages ago I ran a 44x20 on a 26er (just took a ramped and pinned outer ring and a King cog from the parts bin). It worked well for some rolling hills, nothing long and steep. I was running 1.6" wide commuter tires. Did it for a month with a pack on my back with my commuter gear. I say it will largely depend on your terrain and mileage. I had 11 miles each way, all on asphalt. I like a little larger cog just to get more wrap. With that, I suppose a 42x20 or 42x19 (of course the ring selection will be BCD dependent) will be similar with a 29er. Just speculating. Sheldon Brown and others have gear inch/ratio calculators you can run through.
    Last edited by Meat Foot; 01-31-2014 at 10:07 AM. Reason: clarity
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  19. #1169
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    Quote Originally Posted by scaley View Post
    Hi all, I'm new to the forum but after a long (2-3 month) period of internet sleuthing, multiple visits to bike shops, searching the forums, and just pure obsession I am turning to you in hopes of answering a few questions before I pull the trigger on a 2013 or 2014 Ogre.

    (1) Frame Size / Fit: I have searched the forums and read pretty much everything I can but since no one in my region has an Ogre/KM to directly test I'm stuck with comparisons when it comes to sizing. Obviously, given the cost of special ordering I want to get this correct. Getting to the point, I am 5'11" with a 31" inseam. In other words I am a bit of a short-legged, long torso freak, which makes sizing bikes a bit difficult as I am always between two sizes it seems. I currently ride (and Love) a 56cm Surly LHT and I also have an 18.5" Jamis Komodo FX 2 from back in the day.

    I've pretty much been going on the effective top tube recommendation (as per Surly's blog) for sizing the Ogre. Using my LHT as a guide (ETT=22.4), and based on the published geometry of the Ogre, that would correspond to a Small (ETT=22.7). However, using my Jamis as a guide which is a bit longer in the TT, and some conversations with other bike shop folks, it seems the Medium (18in) may be more appropriate.

    So, my question is: Based on your riding experience, what frame size would you lean me toward given this info? Also, I am planning on tasking this this as a 80% trail bike with 20% commuting and longer off-road tours, so I want it to feel playful enough on single track, yet comfortable for longer rides.

    (2) I'm also torn between going with a 2013 or 2014 model, but from the sounds of it the 2014 has been ED coated (confirm/deny?) which in and of itself seems like it's worth it. And then there are the Jones loop bars, which seem great for longer rides but if I'm spending most of my time on single track are they going to be ideal / worth the difference in price? I know a lot of this comes down to personal preference, but I guess I'm just looking for a bit more practical advice.

    Any help is appreciated.
    I realize you've already figured your sizing out, but I'm 5' 11.75" tall, with a 34" PBH inseam. The 18" (medium) Ogre (and other Surlys) fit perfectly for me. The 18 runs "large" fits like a 19" or so. My 180mm cranks lowers my saddle by about 5mm as well.
    Soma, Surly, Salsa, Schwalbe, SRAM, Sun-Ringlé

  20. #1170
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    I've been running this setup for over a month now and I really like it. Stock complete with a Woodchipper bar and Retroshift levers/shifters.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails surly ogre-photo-1-.jpg  

    surly ogre-photo.jpg  


  21. #1171
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    Velo Orange Pass Hunter saddlebag support?

    Anyone perchance have a Velo Orange Pass Hunter rack?
    surly ogre-ra-0026_1.jpg
    I'm wondering about its suitability to be a nifty saddlebag support. Better than a Carradice bagman, not quite so obtrusive as a rack and potentially more elegant.
    I know it won't work on the front as googling found a Aussie who tried it, but alas he didn't try it on the back...

  22. #1172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbbob View Post
    Not sure who originally asked the question, just got it in y e-mail...


    I took the leap of faith last April on an Ogre, and have enjoyed it a lot. I have heard a few Karate Monkey guys grumble "NOT a Karate Monkey!", but if you check the frame geometry as per Surly Website it is, and more. Meaning you will have fun on the beast.

    I hear you about no bikes to try. I live in Alaska, and had to get a bike shipped to an adjacent town, and then flown to me on a bush plane. I am now spending the winter in Murica', and STILL can't find an ECR to test, (in Eugene OR, for Pete's sake, with about a dozen shops). Curious, mostly, about the fatter rubber for some uses.

    I'm 6'2", 34" inseam, and the Large (20") fits great for stand-over. I like and need a shorter Cockpit, so shortened and angled the stem. Since no one would ship one direct, and it had to go through a shop, (What's With That?!?), the young clowns cut the steer tube to minimum by assumption, and I had to juggle stems a bit, and now have a good fit, but wish they had left my steer tube length for me to decide. As it sits, the Large is as big as I would want it.

    Point being, I guess, that a medium sounds good for your dimensions.

    As far as 2013/14 goes, I did the swap to Jones Loop and Thumbies before I knew Surly was going that route. My use mixes rough commuting with trail riding, and the normal width Jones works great for me. HATED the stock shifters on the 2013, had to twist way under the bar with the thumb to climb the cogs. The thumbies work perfect.

    The 2013 tire wheel set up has been fine. You can make it work No Tubes, too, with a little patience and some fiber tape.

    Have fun
    Kevin
    They would be ordering and installing a new fork with an uncut steerer or they would be keeping their Ogre and I would take my business elsewhere.

    I had an LBS install a new fork on one of my bikes and it took two phone coversations and a personal visit to the store to convince them not to cut the steerer tube. There is no excuse for simply cutting a steerer to your preference when building a specific bike for a specific person. It would only take 5 minutes, max, to pick up the phone and talk to the customer.

  23. #1173
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    Quote Originally Posted by corwin1968 View Post
    They would be ordering and installing a new fork with an uncut steerer or they would be keeping their Ogre and I would take my business elsewhere.

    I had an LBS install a new fork on one of my bikes and it took two phone coversations and a personal visit to the store to convince them not to cut the steerer tube. There is no excuse for simply cutting a steerer to your preference when building a specific bike for a specific person. It would only take 5 minutes, max, to pick up the phone and talk to the customer.
    Hear you loud and clear. The issue on simply giving it back was this: I live in a town with no dealer (Juneau, AK). No one in Alaska had a 20" in stock, so I went to the closest dealer, a shop in Haines, AK, which is a ferry ride or airplane flight to reach, as there are no roads in or out of Juneau. I was told that there were only 2 20'" Ogres left in the warehouse at QBP at that time (early April), and when the small commuter airline brought me the assembled bike, and I figured out what it would take in time to get a new fork, I bit the bullet and made it work. Otherwise, it was wait, and they wanted to install the new fork, which would have meant shipping, etc.

    Every shop I talked to was unbending about shipping me a bike in a box. I may not be current as a pro mechanic, but I started and ran a bike shop in the 80's, and guess who had to build those? This technology is not that much different, and I had to redo the brakes when I got this bike, anyway (not to mention the fork issue).

    Now I'm in a similar situation with an ECR, but hoping to find one that I can at least look at this winter while I am traveling (and enjoying the Ogre) in the Western US. So far no luck finding one on a sales floor in Central WA, Southern Idaho, or Eugene, OR. Will be heading to NM and AZ at the end of the month.

    Anyone know of any actual stocking dealers down there? Failing that, does anyone know of a stealth way to get a Surly in a box outside of buying a frame and scrambling (at some expense) for a build kit?

  24. #1174
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    For future reference, I wrote up some notes on my rack and fender install: Front and Rear Racks and Freya's Fenders. This info might be useful to anyone installing the Tubus Logo Evo or Duo racks or the Cascadia 29er fenders.

    Pics:



  25. #1175
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    kbob-

    Try Bikeman in Maine, they sell "complete" Surlys by offering the frame and component component package for right around the same price as an complete from a stocking dealer (doesn't help your cause right now though, they list the frames as being available)

    From their website - "Surly complete bikes cannot be shipped. However, we know a lot of folks derive great pleasure from assembling their own bikes. If you fit this description we can ship you a DIY package consisting of a Bike Creator Frame and a Bike Creator Build so you can assemble your own Surly bike with the exact same spec that comes on a pre-built Surly complete bike. Just purchase the Bike Creator Frame and matching Bike Creator Build shown in the 'Related Items' on the right and two or more boxes will arrive on your doorstep with all you need to assemble your favorite Surly steed. You must order both the Bike Creator Frame and the Bike Creator Build together, they are not available separately. No substitutions or omissions on Bike Creator Builds."
    Alea Jacta Est

  26. #1176
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScaryJerry View Post
    The Straggler and ECR are the only ED coated bikes, though I imagine this will change soon.
    not true.. the new pugsleys also have the ED treatment..

    not sure about the other models

  27. #1177
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    I apologize if this has been asked before, but under heavy braking, does the rear wheel of the Ogre stay in position, or does it tend to move? Also, does the rear disc brake caliper stay in position under heavy braking?

    I'm considering replacing one of my cross-check frames with an Ogre once I have the cash.

  28. #1178
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    surly ogre

    I'm running a standard QR with the Monkey Nuts and it does not slip.

  29. #1179
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    Quote Originally Posted by notequal View Post
    I apologize if this has been asked before, but under heavy braking, does the rear wheel of the Ogre stay in position, or does it tend to move? Also, does the rear disc brake caliper stay in position under heavy braking?

    I'm considering replacing one of my cross-check frames with an Ogre once I have the cash.
    No issues on mine. I run Monkey Nuts, a 3x9 drive train, BB7 brakes with 160 rotors front and rear. I have approximately 2000 off-road miles on it now in a variety of terrain. If the brake caliper were to move (really?) I would fire my bike mechanic. If your rear wheel moved when braking, something was not set up correctly. The Ogre is a great bike platform!

  30. #1180
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatfendershop View Post
    No issues on mine. I run Monkey Nuts, a 3x9 drive train, BB7 brakes with 160 rotors front and rear. I have approximately 2000 off-road miles on it now in a variety of terrain. If the brake caliper were to move (really?) I would fire my bike mechanic. If your rear wheel moved when braking, something was not set up correctly. The Ogre is a great bike platform!
    I only asked about the brake calipers because I remember talking with a KM owner and they had problems with, not only their rear wheel moving in the dropouts, but also the caliper sometimes moving as well. I know that the KM and Ogre rear ends are different, but it still made me go hmm...

    RolledMeat mentioned using the Monkey Nuts as well. Is that absolutely necessary, or would a good Shimano Internal-Cam skewer do the trick? I'd plan on running it geared almost all of the time.

  31. #1181
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    surly ogre

    I think you need the monkey nuts or a bolt on wheel.

  32. #1182
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    Quote Originally Posted by notequal View Post
    I only asked about the brake calipers because I remember talking with a KM owner and they had problems with, not only their rear wheel moving in the dropouts, but also the caliper sometimes moving as well. I know that the KM and Ogre rear ends are different, but it still made me go hmm...

    RolledMeat mentioned using the Monkey Nuts as well. Is that absolutely necessary, or would a good Shimano Internal-Cam skewer do the trick? I'd plan on running it geared almost all of the time.
    Shimano internal cam skewers are fine, so long as you really clamp down on them. I think you can get more force out of those skewers then from track nuts.

  33. #1183
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    I've been running a disc XT QR wheelset for some time and done some trailing on it, the axles don't budge when they're properly secured. QR Hope on my KM, same way. Wouldn't do it without the M. nuts, but it's for convenience--I wouldn't say you couldn't.

  34. #1184
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    Ogre reincarnated

    Built up as a hard tail, with Deore 3x10, Dually / SLX wheel set, Rock Shox Recon, and Gravity Dropper.
    surly ogre-img_1555.jpg

  35. #1185
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    Good to know about xt qr wheel set. I have the same thing on one of my cross checks and that would be what I would use on an Ogre, at least initially.

  36. #1186
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    Anyone else just absolutely detest removing the rear wheel, and worse - putting it back in the dropouts? It's the definite low point of Ogre ownership. I've done it six times today, and it's not fun. Tips/Tricks welcome. 8speed, BB7.

  37. #1187
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    Well I will find out soon, I just ordered a 18" green Ogre frame set today. I'll post up some pics when I get it built up.
    "You don't need a lighter bike, you need bigger muscles"

  38. #1188
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashmo View Post
    Anyone else just absolutely detest removing the rear wheel, and worse - putting it back in the dropouts? It's the definite low point of Ogre ownership. I've done it six times today, and it's not fun. Tips/Tricks welcome. 8speed, BB7.
    I feel you, I've done it twice more than a couple times when I could have only done it once thinking ahead. Six is pretty rough, hopefully it gets better.

    What's wrong with it when you put it back in? If you're having probs with bb7 alignment, you get that the same way you get to Carnegie hall--practice, practice, practice. Just make sure you have the wheel in straight and to the front of the drops (or m. nuts,) focus on getting the caliper/pads straight and in plane with the disc, adjust your spacing, take your time, and be happy you're not trying to line it up with a single speed wheel.

    As far as removal/reinstall, if you haven't been doing so, shifting to the smallest cog and chainring will make it easier as well as pulling the idler pulley on the rear derailer towards the front of the bike when pulling it out.

  39. #1189
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    surly ogre

    Remove the QR skewer first. From the top, pull the chain off the cassette with one hand, pull the wheel straight back, guide the chain around it. For installation, pull chain back and around the cassette. Put the axle at the end of the dropout and place the chain on the cassette. Then guide the rotor into the brake caliper as you slide the wheel forward in the dropout. Reinstall skewer.

  40. #1190
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    I'm interested in an Ogre complete bike. Looking at the website specs I see a whole bunch of component differences between the 2013 and 2014 models. The new Jones handlebars are easy to understand, but might someone be able to summarise for me the main changes in other areas? The price difference for me would be about $200 more for the 2014 model. I've tried to search the forum but didn't find.

    On another note, how do people find the Jones bars for easy singletrack (but not that technical) riding as opposed to touring?

    For those using front suspension forks, how do you find the Ogre compared to other hardtail 29ers you've tried?

    And on sizing, these are my details, would the 22" be best given it'll be mostly offroad but nothing too technical?

    Height: 75 (6'3")
    Inseam: 36
    Trunk/Torso: 28
    Forearm: 15
    Arm: 28
    Thigh: 26
    Lower Leg: 24
    Sternal notch: 62
    Weight: 84KG/185lbs

    PS - I posted a more general hardtail 29er sizing and model advice request here if anyone cares to chip in:

    Tall newbie in Africa in need of sizing help for a 29er

    Thanks
    Last edited by occamsrazor; 03-11-2014 at 03:50 AM.

  41. #1191
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    You and I are the same size. I would ride the 22". I've used old style jones bars, which are narrower than the ones offered by surly, on and off road. I like them and they handle technical trails well for me.

  42. #1192
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    Thanks vaultbrad. Do you own a 22" Ogre? If so could you post or PM me a pic of you on the bike? Thanks

  43. #1193
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    Geometries might be a wee bit different but I have a 22" pugsley that I'll find a picture of. It will give an idea of the proportions.

  44. #1194
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    Front Derailleur Clearance

    Hi Everyone,

    First post here... been following this thread for a while and gaining insights and inspiration for my own Ogre build.

    So a couple of months back I found a good deal on a new 2013 Ogre Complete and scooped it up with the intention of making some upgrades and modifications to it over time. One of the upgrades I've made is to have a second set of wheels built up so that I can have a "road" set using the stock wheels with a pair of Big Apples and a "mountain" set using the Sun Ringle Mtx 33 rims and Ardent 2.4 tires.

    Unfortunately, I've encountered a problem... The Mtx 33/Ardent wheelset runs uncomfortably close to my front derailleur. We're talking 1/16" to 1/8" clearance with a set of Monkey Nuts installed; it's fine for dry conditions but not so good in any muddy or wet conditions when dirt sticks to the tires. I tried adding a second set of Monkey Nuts to the dropouts, but that puts the wheel absurdly far back in the dropouts (enough so that the rear brake caliper can't be slid back far enough in its tracks to fully grab the rotor any longer).

    I've tried to simply position the wheel in a suitable area in the dropouts and secure it in place by really tightening down on my XT QRs, but with only limited success. Sometimes the rear wheel is still slipping. I'm now considering trying the Surly Tugnut to see if it will allow me to position and hold the wheel in my desired location. Otherwise, I guess I'll need to go back to a smaller/lower profile rear tire or figure out a Monkey Nut mod to take up more room than one set, but less room than two sets.

    Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks for the help.

  45. #1195
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    Or you could try a different front derailer.

  46. #1196
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    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    Or you could try a different front derailer.
    True... good point. That too would be an option. I'd just have to figure out which other FDs would provide me with better clearance and play nice with the rest of the drivetrain.

  47. #1197
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    occamsrazor, I got my 2013 complete version Ogre in the 24" size. I am 6'5" and the standover just fits me. I probably would have done fine with the 22". I put on a shorter stem and use the Surly open bars. I would have liked the Jones bars I believe and may go to those in the future. I think you will be happy with the 22"
    BTW, I also have an LHT that I have a lot of miles on as a commuter and many tours and it is a great comfy ride but...Ogre has it beat. I love it

  48. #1198
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    Well I didn't end up with the Green 18" I wanted and had to go with Tanish Gray.
    surly ogre-10150751_747948741924012_432486951_n.jpg
    I built it up with a collection of scavenged parts.
    surly ogre-1146484_747948671924019_1209182543_n.jpg
    Everyone loves a parts list:
    18" Ogre in Tanish Gray
    FSA Alpha drive crankset 32/22
    Titec H-bar
    Shimano Deore LX dual controls and derailleurs
    11-34 cassette
    WTB speed-v saddle
    BB5 160mm disc brakes
    WTB speed disc wheels/Shimano 6-bolt hubs
    29 x 2.1 Vee Rubber V10 tires
    Nashbar mini front rack
    recycled US Army waist pack for a handlebar bag.
    surly ogre-72580_747948738590679_867521302_n.jpg
    I'm still tweaking things here and there.....got about 20 miles of dirt under the wheels and so far I'm very happy
    "You don't need a lighter bike, you need bigger muscles"

  49. #1199
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    Zuk88, your Ogre looks great.
    All good expeditions should be simple in concept, difficult in their execution and satisfying to remember--Alastair Humphreys

  50. #1200
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    Tannish Gray too

    Quote Originally Posted by zuk88 View Post
    Well I didn't end up with the Green 18" I wanted and had to go with Tanish Gray.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    G'day zuk88,
    I too went with the Tannish Gray. Looks much better in person than in the photos on the Surly website. I also built it from some used parts except the wheels, discs,mudguards, and FD.
    surly ogre-2014-03-16-16.32.21.jpg
    Here is my parts list:
    18" Tannish Gray Ogre frame and fork
    FSA Orbit MX headset red

    Deore M596 disc brakes.
    180 front 160 rear SLX centerlock discs

    Deore 9speed crankset 48-38-26
    9speed 11-34 cassette
    Deore front shifter
    SLX direct mount FD
    SLX rear shifter
    XT M772 9speed Shadow RD

    WTB PureV saddle
    Easton EA50 seatpost
    Easton Vice stem 90mm
    Titec flatbar 580mm (need a longer one I think)
    Ergon grips

    SLX 36hole front hub
    Zee M640 135x10mm 36hole rear hub
    DTSwiss competition spokes
    Mavic XM319 rims

    Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 35C
    SKS Chromoplastics P45 fenders

    Old rack Bor Yueh (will be my next upgrade)

    The wheels were my first go at building, was great fun, will definitely be building my own wheels from now on.

    The Zee hub means I can remove my 135x10mm skewer and drop the rear wheel like vertical dropouts.

    It's my daily ride and has done about 500km (300mi) commuting duty so far. Also my first steel frame, feels solid yet has more give then the Al alloy commuter it replaced (and that one had cushier 45mm tyres). Will be getting some mtb tires in the near future to take it for a spin off-road

    Stoked!

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