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  1. #1
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    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
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    shift housing stops on new KM

    I have a 2011 KM and I would like to put a RD on it for road riding purposes. the frame seems to have been designed to use full housing for the derailleurs but I would rather not have full housing all the way down. how might I at least replace the length of housing along the top tube?

  2. #2
    I do what I want
    Reputation: Guy.Ford's Avatar
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    The only idea I've got Problem Solvers Backstop




    See also Universal Cycles -- Interloc Double Housing Stops



    Personally I'd prefer the Problem Solvers Ive used there products before and it looks like a much sturdier build.
    Guy.Ford

    I'm not really an @sshole, I just act like one online.

  3. #3
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    If your KM uses the 3-sided "trip guides", there may be another option to the cable stop shown above.

    You might be able to use a Jagwire cable stopper in the middle guide slot (facing down). Jagwire part #CHA056 is for 5mm housing slots. Since the slot is pretty open, you would need a zip-tie to keep the stopper from falling out.

    Unforunately you can only do one derailleur this way, and you can only have an open cable run along the top tube. You would have to go back to full housing as it travels down the seat stay to the rear derailleur.

  4. #4
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    Wouldn't adding two bolt-on clamps negate the weight savings of a small length of bare cable? Or are there other reasons as well?

  5. #5
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    i am not interested in saving weight. I want to monster-cross my KM with dirt drop and bar-end shifters. this would require a LONG stretch of shift housing, which would result in lots of friction and sloppy shifting. breaking up the housing for al least 18 inches somewhere would presumably eliminate a little of that. right? why does every other bike on the planet have cable stops on it? why don't we all just use full-length housing?

  6. #6
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    Friction in gear cables comes from kinks and bends in the outer or poorly maintained cables. The housing would be straight on the top tube so no added friction there (assuming you greased your cables) and if you are not looking after your cables then full length cables will have less friction anyway, as there are less open ends for the water to get in. The main reason not to go full outers is cost, full length outers are expensive if you want to buy quality gear, but then they may last longer (if your the sort of person who dosnt bother looking after your gear).

  7. #7
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
    Reputation: donalson's Avatar
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    yup full length housings are going to let less crap get into the lines...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    i am not interested in saving weight. I want to monster-cross my KM with dirt drop and bar-end shifters. this would require a LONG stretch of shift housing, which would result in lots of friction and sloppy shifting. breaking up the housing for al least 18 inches somewhere would presumably eliminate a little of that. right? why does every other bike on the planet have cable stops on it? why don't we all just use full-length housing?
    Gotcha. Perhaps you could epoxy some cable ends/ferrules into the hose guides? Or use low-friction cable like the Gore stuff?

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