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  1. #201
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    Hey, Gritter. That is a very wicked bike. I like just about everything about it. Looks just the ticket for daily riding and long rambling excursions to where ever you may find yourself. Did you get your chainline issues sorted? What's your reasoning for the high stem and flipped bars? I can think of several reasons why that could be better than fewer spacers and unflipped bars, but I'm curios about your thoughts.

  2. #202
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    +1. I finally got a flat bar as a compromise. Saved a few spacers stack.
    G

  3. #203
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    38 pounds?

    Hi Gritter,

    it looks funky! But where did you gain 38 pounds? I know the saddle and the Alfine hub are on the heavy side (and the rack doesn't help either), but still ...

  4. #204
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    my 20" weighs 41lbs.....

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny the boy View Post
    my 20" weighs 41lbs.....

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by LostBoyScout View Post
    Nice Ogre! Your rack system is what I am planning for my Troll. How do you like the rear Salsa rack? I have their down under racks, and was planning to buy the minimalist and the wanderlust as well. Good to see what it would look like on a similar bike!

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea monster View Post
    But where did you gain 38 pounds?
    That string connecting the bike to the scale looks like it has to weigh at least a pound

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by vaultbrad View Post
    Hey, Gritter. That is a very wicked bike. I like just about everything about it. Looks just the ticket for daily riding and long rambling excursions to where ever you may find yourself. Did you get your chainline issues sorted? What's your reasoning for the high stem and flipped bars? I can think of several reasons why that could be better than fewer spacers and unflipped bars, but I'm curios about your thoughts.
    Hi, vaultbrad.

    My chainline is exactly 3.5mm off. 51mm on the front, while the Æleven is maxed out at 47.5mm. I'm using an eight speed chain, meant for the funky chainlines of a derailleur bike, so it's flexibility really allows for scoliosis of the chain. It matches the seat tube's aesthetics. My Æleven's axle is slid rearward about 25mm back in the Track Forkend Dropouts, it seems to be enough distance to allow for enough flex to make the chainline issue moot.

    It's completely silent, and I don't notice it at all while riding. Whatever negatives I'm overlooking are worth it to me to run these beefcake cranks.

    My flipped Open Bars with a ton-o'spacers is because that Azonic Shorty stem dominates my front end, and needs to be on top. Even though I think it might be ergonomically the same unflipped and lower, it feels like a cafe velo cruiser this way. It has a different emotional sensation; I can't explain it, but I like it a lot.

    I saw Dalton's Ogre rocking the flips, and I thought it looked great, so I totally had to copy off him, because imitation is the highest form of flattery (now, that I look at his build, mine's almost identical, just blacker. )

    I'd like to hear your thoughts on the flipped bars/spacer situation, vaultbrad.

    Quote Originally Posted by sea monster View Post
    Hi Gritter,

    it looks funky! But where did you gain 38 pounds? I know the saddle and the Alfine hub are on the heavy side (and the rack doesn't help either), but still ...
    Hey, sea monster,

    38 lbs, 15 oz, but I still have to throw some fenders on it. There's a locking plate on the rack that holds an Ortlieb Trunk Bag that probably weighs about 3 lbs. That Brooks Flyer saddle weighs over 2-1/2 pounds. The Surly trailer-nuts weigh 4.36 ounces... it all adds up rather quickly, but that weight does include front and rear lights with batteries. The entire bike was overbuilt, for thrashing as well as load hauling, with 36 spokes front and rear with brass nipples.

    When I pulled the Æleven built wheel out of the box, I was shocked at how light it was. Seemed like half the weight of my old Nexus 7, and a third of the weight as NuVinci. I forgot to weigh it though. I think the Æleven hub is light, but the shifter is heavy as heck.

    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    That string connecting the bike to the scale looks like it has to weigh at least a pound
    The unbalanced weight distribution makes this rig way too back-heavy to hang on the scale normally. I had to use 7/64" AmSteel (1600 lb test strength), to get a good hang That piece weighs 6.7 grams, but I zero'd out the scale with the string before I hung the bike

    I've taken it on a couple rides, but there's so much salt everywhere and it gets everywhere, almost as bad as sand, especially went it's mixed with snow in a slurry. I wiped the Ogre down good, but I just feel bad making it begin its life in such harsh conditions.
    Last edited by Gritter; 01-24-2013 at 11:56 PM.
    '10 Rocky Mountain Metropolis (rigid 2x10)
    '10 SURLY 1x1 (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Ogre (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Troll (rigid 2x10)

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea monster View Post
    surly rear rack, xt hubs to rhyno-lite's (36h), tool bag w/ u lock, brooks saddle....it adds up....
    feels more solid than heavy.

  10. #210
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    Full Mt BIke setup

    Seems like spring here so I set it up again for full mountan duty.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-photo-1-.jpg  


  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunger View Post
    ...w/a Bill Trailer.
    Nice! Are those sidewalls two feet high? Can you offer any advice on lining up the holes in the wheel hoops for the side panels?

    I tried measuring the holes for the deck, but was off a couple millimeters, and now I'm trying to figure out a better way to line up the holes for the sides. I need a template. Surly sells a template for the fenders and spoke covers, for fifty bucks... I can't figure out how to get measurements from those curved surfaces. I could place the hoops next to the side-panels and "eyeball" it, since the holes don't go all the way through, but there's got to be a better way.

    What size angle stock did you use on the corners? Did you drill the holes, and how did you line them up so well? The top of your trailer looks perfectly square and precise.

    The mighty Ogre was born to pull this trailer.
    Last edited by Gritter; 01-27-2013 at 08:07 AM.
    '10 Rocky Mountain Metropolis (rigid 2x10)
    '10 SURLY 1x1 (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Ogre (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Troll (rigid 2x10)

  12. #212
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    Gritter,

    I don't have one of these trailers, but I do have an idea to find your hole placement. I'm assuming the holes are threaded on the trailer. Go buy a small pack of set screws, screw them in with the set point facing your board and still sticking out, lay the board on the area you want it to be, hit the board with a rubber mallet over the set screw area, and then finally drill your holes where the set screws left a mark. This goes without saying, but take out the set screws to mount your boards with proper bolts 'n washers.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turtle01 View Post
    Gritter,

    I don't have one of these trailers, but I do have an idea to find your hole placement. I'm assuming the holes are threaded on the trailer. Go buy a small pack of set screws, screw them in with the set point facing your board and still sticking out, lay the board on the area you want it to be, hit the board with a rubber mallet over the set screw area, and then finally drill your holes where the set screws left a mark. This goes without saying, but take out the set screws to mount your boards with proper bolts 'n washers.
    Thanks, Turtle01! I didn't know I could get screws like that, but it looks like I'm going to have to source some. What a great idea! This should work perfectly.
    '10 Rocky Mountain Metropolis (rigid 2x10)
    '10 SURLY 1x1 (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Ogre (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Troll (rigid 2x10)

  14. #214
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    Hey Gritter,

    Those set screws will probably be difficult to find locally since they're metric. If you have a local machine supply shop around they'd probably have them. If not, here is a link to McMaster-Carr who has them: McMaster-Carr. Select the Cone Point Set Screws. I think the size will be M6 x 1, but check that. I'd go with 10 or 12mm for the length so they're easier to handle.

    If you can't see the marks left by the set screws, just put a drop of paint on the tip before you put the wood to them.

    Oh, that makes it really simple now that I think of it.... Just put some old regular bike bolts in the holes with a bit of paint on them instead of the set screws. Free!

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turtle01 View Post
    Hey Gritter,

    Those set screws will probably be difficult to find locally since they're metric. If you have a local machine supply shop around they'd probably have them. If not, here is a link to McMaster-Carr who has them: McMaster-Carr. Select the Cone Point Set Screws. I think the size will be M6 x 1, but check that. I'd go with 10 or 12mm for the length so they're easier to handle.

    If you can't see the marks left by the set screws, just put a drop of paint on the tip before you put the wood to them.

    Oh, that makes it really simple now that I think of it.... Just put some old regular bike bolts in the holes with a bit of paint on them instead of the set screws. Free!
    I like the idea of pointed set-screws, for precision, but I'll find something to stick in those holes to transfer the pattern.

    It's been hard to find parts to work in unison with these rear drop-outs. My rack wasn't playing nicely with these fenders, so meanwhile, the Ogre's rocking this season's minimalist foul-weather fashion ensemble. P.B. Cascadia mudguards to shield the Mighty Ogre from all the slushy, salty slurry around here. They're wide, and work great. Stainless hardware on some polycarbonate half-domes. Just gotta dial the rear curvature profile and trim the struts:



    '10 Rocky Mountain Metropolis (rigid 2x10)
    '10 SURLY 1x1 (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Ogre (rigid SS)
    '13 SURLY Troll (rigid 2x10)

  16. #216
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    My Ogre Build Master Plan

    I am going to pull the trigger this coming week and order an Ogre frame set. I already purchased some components for the build from the list below, but the majority still needs to be purchased and paid for. Therefore, I would appreciate it, if you could take a look and let me know, should I be heading towards something completely idiotic. This is my first build and, with the exception of some very basic stuff, the vast majority of the build will be done by professionals, while I will be looking over their shoulders, trying to learn as much as possible. The final product is supposed to come out as a strong, durable, reliable and reasonably light MTB, which will be used for joyriding and light MTB action as well as (after a quick conversion) for a heavy duty touring adventure. Your critique and suggestions are welcome.

    Frameset

    Frame: Surly Ogre 4130 CroMoly steel (22", green)
    Fork: Surly Ogre 4130 CroMoly steel (green)

    Wheels

    Rims. Mavic TN 719 Disc (36h)
    Hubs: Hope Pro II Evo (front and rear, 36h, black)
    Spokes: DT Swiss Competition (black)
    Nipples: DT Swiss Brass Nipples
    Rim tape: ? (622 x 20 x 0.6)
    Front QR skewer: Superstar 9mm Through Axle (black)
    Rear QR skewer: Superstar 10mm Through Axle (black)
    Tires: Kenda SB8 (2.1")
    Tubes: ?

    I still have no idea how I should have it laced (3 or 4 crosses?). I will assort the components, and then the wheels will be built (quite inexpensively) at my local bike shop. I expect it to handle my 100kg + up to 30kg of load when touring.

    Drivetrain

    Crankset: Shimano XT M770 9 speed (44-32-22, 175mm)
    Cassette: Shimano XT M770 9 speed (11-34)
    Chain: Shimano XT HG93
    Chain tensioners: Surly Tuggnut
    Front derailleur: Shimano XT M770 9 speed (top swing)
    Rear derailleur: Shimano XT M771 9 speed (long cage)
    Shifter: Shimano XT M770 9 speed
    Pedals: Welgo CNC Platform B143

    I will need all the gears when touring. I already have the crankset and cassette, so why not have it all XT? Although the Ogre manual says “top pull front derailleur”, I hope my top swing front derailleur will work just as well. Please, let me know if I am wrong on this one. Do I need the Tuggnut tensioner or will the supplied Monkey Nuts do the job (considering the 10mm through axle I want to use for my rear wheel)?

    Brakes

    Brakes: Avid BB7 (180mm front/160mm rear rotor, black)
    Brake levers: Avid Speed Dial 7 (graphite/black)

    Components

    Saddle: Ritchey WCS Contrail (black)
    Seat post: Ritchey Comp V2 (27.2mm/400mm, black)
    Seat clamp: Surly Stainless Steel (30mm)
    Headset: FSA Orbit MX (black)
    Stem: ?
    Handlebar: ?
    Grips: Ergon GS1 (black, S)
    Bar ends: ?
    Spacers: ?

    I like the look of the supplied seat clamp, but I have some doubts it can handle my weight. I could use some suggestion for the stem. I’d be quite happy with the stock (7°) Kaloy stem, but it’s not available in my area.

    Accessories

    Bottle cages: 2 x Brand X Cage Alloy (black)
    Frame bag: Vaude Cruiser
    Front light: Magicshine MJ872
    Rear light: Smart ½ Watt LED Rear Light
    Computer: Cateye Strada Wireless

    Touring add-ons

    Saddle: Brooks B17 (standard, black)
    Tires: Schwalbe Marathon Supreme (2.0")
    Pedals: MKS Sylvan Touring
    Front rack: Tubus Tara
    Rear rack: Tubus Logo
    Bar-bag bar: Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped (105mm, 0°)
    Front panniers: Ortlieb Front Roller Classic (25l, ?)
    Rear panniers: Ortlieb Back Roller Classic (40l, ?)
    Handlebar bag: Ortlieb Ultimate6 M Classic (7l, black)
    Mudguards: ?
    Front light: ?
    Bottle cage: 3rd Brand X Cage Alloy (black)

    Any ideas for a decent touring front light (as an addition to a headlamp) running on batteries? As far as panniers go, I am taking the mainstream (tried and tested) Ortlieb Avenue. I wish there were some pictures out there of Ogre with Ortlieb panniers on, so I could make up my mind in terms of color matching. It doesn’t look too promising ATM – black or possibly grey. I wish they made them in khaki! In terms of mudguards, I am looking at SKS Chromoplastic Road Mudguard Set and/or Planet Bike Cascadia Fenders.


  17. #217
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    Hey sea monster! Build plan looks great.

    I also tried to find khaki panniers with no luck. However Ortlieb does make one that is sort of a khaki. They were out of my budget but would look good on the Ogre - Universal Cycles -- Ortlieb Bike Tourer Rear Panniers

    Just a word of caution using a wireless cyclocomputer with a light. My wireless computer goes crazy when I turn on my front light. Not sure if this happens with all of them.


    Edit: The stock seatpost clamp failed (cracked) on mine. Get a Salsa or other good clamp.

  18. #218
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    I had a productive day today. A friend from a local cycling forum offered to come help with my build. He laced my Rohloff and having the correct tools, he put in my UN55 botttom bracket for me. We got my Tubus rear rack on to see what it looked like as well as the rear BB7 brake bolted to the frame. Still lots to do but it was nice to see the wheel being put together and cranks on.
    Ogre Build Thread-dsc05679.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-dsc05680.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-dsc05686.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-dsc05683.jpg
    Last edited by rifraf; 03-24-2013 at 03:55 AM.

  19. #219
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    No-brainer question for bike techs, but what's all the padding for?

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by HelmutHerr View Post
    No-brainer question for bike techs, but what's all the padding for?
    Gidday HelmutHerr, the padding is whats wrapped around the frame for protection against abrasion and chips. This is when you buy a frame instead of a complete bike I imagine. So yeah its basically to protect the paint. There is also a plastic wedge where the rear wheel slots into. This is to stop the chainstays and seatstays getting squeezed inwards by something weighty being put onto the box whilst in transit and damaging the frame. Didnt your frame come with it? My forks were also in their own cardboard box inside the bike frame box. Also included were some monkeynuts (axel spacers) and
    a adapter for the rear brake caliper.

  21. #221
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    Thoughts on the build...

    I did a not dissimilar adventure touring build last fall (36 spoke 3x wheels, XT Touring all around). I went for a bigger chain-ring, but if you already have the crankset, 4 extra teeth may not be worth it. Contrary to Surly's advice, a 48T front ring fits no problem with 1 spacer. I bought the Tugnut but have not yet needed it. For the price it may be better safe than sorry. I am over 100kg and the stock seat clamp holds just fine. At your weight, I might consider either a Brooks sprung saddle, or a Thudbuster seatpost, as the Ogre's setup is pretty rigid. I have done a fair bit of on/offroad riding (here) in Thailand and am grateful for the springs on my Flyer.

    I have recently upgraded to a 203mm front disc, but because I'm running a Shimano front hub dynamo and a centerlock-6 bolt adapter with my BB7s, we had to do some fancy spacer work to get the bigger disc in the brake. If your hubs are native 6b, should be fine.

    I personally think the contrast of red or orange Ortleib panniers looks cooler on the Ogre than than khaki or neutral colors, but I ended up getting a terrific deal on a full set of grey Vaude panniers and went with those instead. One issue with the Ortleib rollers is that they don't accommodate drying damp stuff well-- some users complain that they seal too well and end up keeping everything damp/wet and eventually moldy. Caveat emptor.

    None of the limits of my build have been due to the frame/setup- just my learning curve- so there have been some bumps, but the Ogre frame is very accommodating! Still searching for the perfect handlebars. So far have tried Titec H, a generic swept city bar (maybe 18 deg), and now Nashbar butterflies. So far, wider feels better on this beast, and I suspect I'll end up with wide straight bars, bar ends, and maybe clamp-on tri-bars if/when I go for a serious tour.

    Have fun with the build!



    [QUOTE=sea monster;10261511]I am going to pull the trigger this coming week and order an Ogre frame set. I already purchased some components for the build from the list below, but the majority still needs to be purchased and paid for. Therefore, I would appreciate it, if you could take a look and let me know, should I be heading towards something completely idiotic...

  22. #222
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    Thanks EWR,

    Quote Originally Posted by EatWorkRide View Post
    I also tried to find khaki panniers with no luck. However Ortlieb does make one that is sort of a khaki. They were out of my budget but would look good on the Ogre - Universal Cycles -- Ortlieb Bike Tourer Rear Panniers
    Yeah, they don't look too bad, do they? But yes, they are rather pricey (and the build budget has already swollen up ..).

    Quote Originally Posted by EatWorkRide View Post
    Just a word of caution using a wireless cyclocomputer with a light. My wireless computer goes crazy when I turn on my front light. Not sure if this happens with all of them.[/url]
    I will have to research this. I had an old, wired Sigma computer (died of old age), and I was looking forward to ditching the wire with the new purchase.


    Quote Originally Posted by EatWorkRide View Post
    Edit: The stock seatpost clamp failed (cracked) on mine. Get a Salsa or other good clamp.
    Bummer. In this case, I am going to get the 30mm Hope QR clamp and keep the original one as a spare part.

    Have a nice day!

  23. #223
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    Hi Yakyai,

    Thanks for your input.

    Quote Originally Posted by yakyai View Post
    I did a not dissimilar adventure touring build last fall (36 spoke 3x wheels, XT Touring all around). I went for a bigger chain-ring, but if you already have the crankset, 4 extra teeth may not be worth it. Contrary to Surly's advice, a 48T front ring fits no problem with 1 spacer.
    I have thought about 48T, since my previous bike (hybrid) had a touring crankset, but it wouldn't work for the MTB part.

    Quote Originally Posted by yakyai View Post
    At your weight, I might consider either a Brooks sprung saddle, or a Thudbuster seatpost, as the Ogre's setup is pretty rigid. I have done a fair bit of on/offroad riding (here) in Thailand and am grateful for the springs on my Flyer.
    Now you have me thinking. I never really considered getting a saddle with springs, but now - as I am reading reviews on the Flyer saddle - I am intrigued.

    Quote Originally Posted by yakyai View Post
    I have recently upgraded to a 203mm front disc, but because I'm running a Shimano front hub dynamo and a centerlock-6 bolt adapter with my BB7s, we had to do some fancy spacer work to get the bigger disc in the brake. If your hubs are native 6b, should be fine.
    Should I go with the 203mm front rotor? The hubs (Hope Pro II Evo) would accommodate that.

    Quote Originally Posted by yakyai View Post
    I personally think the contrast of red or orange Ortleib panniers looks cooler on the Ogre than than khaki or neutral colors, but I ended up getting a terrific deal on a full set of grey Vaude panniers and went with those instead. One issue with the Ortleib rollers is that they don't accommodate drying damp stuff well-- some users complain that they seal too well and end up keeping everything damp/wet and eventually moldy. Caveat emptor.
    Would you mind to share your opinion on the Vaude panniers? I was pretty much evenly split between Ortlieb and Vaude. The weight difference influenced my decision in the end, although I like the stiff back and (smarter) looks of the Vaude panniers.

    A nice day to Thailand!

  24. #224
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    For anyone considering fender options, I've just spotted that in addition to the Cascadias, which are also available in white for 29er, there is a shiny stainless wide fender put out by
    Gilles Berthound. I'm pulling my hair out trying to make a purchase decision for my black framed Ogre.

  25. #225
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    Hello all. Been lurking for a while getting great ideas and decided to speak up now that I am building up my dream ogre!
    Should be a thing of beauty and I will be posting photos soon, but would like some advice.
    Was planning on putting a shimano Alfine crankset in, but have run into the issue that it is designed for a 68mm BB shell, and the ogre is 73mm!
    However, I did come across this online:
    Hiawatha Cyclery: Ogrohloff

    They hint at the fact that there was some kind of work around to make the Alfine crank work, but no indication of how it was done! Any ideas?
    If no, any recommendations on a good SS crankset to run with my Alfine 8 rear? Thanks and hello again!

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