Page 8 of 9 FirstFirst ... 456789 LastLast
Results 351 to 400 of 443
  1. #351
    Tires
    Reputation: Gritter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    525
    Seriously breathtaking build. It screams usefulness and hi-tech, yet retains some old school charm. I don't know about that "kickstand" though, but I think I need one now.

  2. #352
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by Gritter View Post
    Seriously breathtaking build. It screams usefulness and hi-tech, yet retains some old school charm. I don't know about that "kickstand" though, but I think I need one now.
    Thanks Gritter,
    The Rohloff took some getting used to and I think its ownership is an acquired taste, but I'm happy with it now and will be keeping it.

    Ast to the stand.
    I got the 6 piece max version and it fits nicely in my handle bar bag.
    Bike hasnt toppled yet although it helps to use a bit of velcro to keep the front wheel straight.

    You may notice the Abus frame lock I added behind the brake-bosses on the seat-stays.
    Its an Abus Amparo.
    I think its this one:
    ABUS Frame Lock 4850 LH KR OEM black (52316)
    which I bought from bike24.net
    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...00,5,74;mid=72

    My Mondials 700cx2.00 have just arrived and since the pics were taken I added a Philips Ringlight dynamo tail-light which I'm really happy with:
    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...0,1411;mid=251

    In my package from Germany (bike24) came some Pitlocks to try to help hang onto my wheels when my backs turned.
    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,2,169;mid=164

    Realising how much I like my bike, I also invested in a Kryptonite floor anchor:
    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...0,5,74;mid=100

    I'm currently getting another dynamo wheel built up for my new trailer project.
    I wanted something for water hauling duty that I could also use to charge an iPod and camera gear. I grabbed a second Son28 hub, Dyad rim and Sapim spokes in anticipation of buying one of these trailer frames:
    Home

  3. #353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    186
    pretty cool lookin'!
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyharing View Post
    OK, here's the somewhat overdue and anti-climactic completed build. I still have to add racks, cages, computer, etc. etc, but it's ridable for now.









    Took it for a spin down the alley, felt great, but I need to dial in the brakes a lot. I didn't find the BB7s as easy to install as I thought they would be, so I'll take it to the shop and get some professional help. Everything else came together pretty smoothly though. I've got skinny tires on it for now for commuting, it's going to be a long, long time before it sees any singletrack.

  4. #354
    Unhinged Aussie on a 29er
    Reputation: hunter006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    I'm currently getting another dynamo wheel built up for my new trailer project.
    I wanted something for water hauling duty that I could also use to charge an iPod and camera gear. I grabbed a second Son28 hub, Dyad rim and Sapim spokes in anticipation of buying one of these trailer frames:
    Home
    Speaking of trailers, although it's for on-road use only (that's the way I want it) I too am looking in to a trailer. I just purchased a Burley Nomad trailer, but had concerns about putting the hitch mount on the rear QR skewer. I was worried about the rear skewer moving around with the mount and the hitch blocking or striking the external gear mech.

    After searching around and finding nothing that would help me with using the M10x1 Bob Nutz mount above the QR skewer, I found Burley make an Alternator Hitch that will go on the end of my QR skewer. I think it will still block the gear mech, but that's just the case of loosening the QR skewer and rotating it 90º out of the way.

    God help you if you try to search for it on the Burley site though, even Google had trouble finding it.

    Linky to part: ::Hitch Alt Adapter (M10 x 1.0) | Child Trailer - Burley--BURLEY--

  5. #355
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487

    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by hunter006 View Post
    Speaking of trailers, although it's for on-road use only (that's the way I want it) I too am looking in to a trailer. I just purchased a Burley Nomad trailer, but had concerns about putting the hitch mount on the rear QR skewer. I was worried about the rear skewer moving around with the mount and the hitch blocking or striking the external gear mech.

    After searching around and finding nothing that would help me with using the M10x1 Bob Nutz mount above the QR skewer, I found Burley make an Alternator Hitch that will go on the end of my QR skewer. I think it will still block the gear mech, but that's just the case of loosening the QR skewer and rotating it 90º out of the way.

    God help you if you try to search for it on the Burley site though, even Google had trouble finding it.

    Linky to part: ::Hitch Alt Adapter (M10 x 1.0) | Child Trailer - Burley--BURLEY--
    Hi Hunter,
    I wish you every success with that option.
    Having seen many posts lamenting twisting Ogre rear wheel axles, I'm not confident of the Burly method, but fingers crossed for you and a positive result.
    Might I inquire why you chose to forgo the Surly frame mount option, where many have used their Bob Nutz and others on the dropouts above the axle?
    It looks a bit of a ***** with being so close to the tuggnutt but I'm thinking about spacing some outwards with either some washers or a close to bolt diameter bit of pipe (around 5 to 10mm to clear the tuggnutt.
    This idea is for my Carry Freedom Y-frame 2 wheel trialer whose hitching system seems a good one.
    Yet to buy my single wheeled Extra-wheel trailer due to I've got to find another bike shop to pull apart my wrongly assembled wheel.
    Cant express my thoughts on Western Australia bike shops and their competence.
    I'm very disappointed having gone to a recommended bike shop and to suffer having to pay for an inherently weak build due to some snafu of the builders.
    Now I have to pay again to get it fixed.
    They did the 3 cross pattern ok, but didnt cross the spokes with them touching where they cross closest to the hub, if that makes sense.
    I cant think how to articulate it properly sorry, probably because I'm so mad.
    Most of the shops in this part of Australia I refuse to grace with my money due to rubbish service.
    I've utilised 4 bike shops in the greater Perth area with unhappy results each and every time.
    I was hoping I wouldnt have to learn how to build wheels myself but its looking inevitable that I'm going to have to learn, just like most of the other jobs.
    Took them three weeks to produce a wheel that need to be stripped down to individual parts.
    I give up!

  6. #356
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    75
    Hey All,

    Looking to get my ogre setup with something more city oriented (nyc).

    Right now I'm running 3x10 x9/x7 for touring which has been great. Not doing any touring till the late spring/summer though.

    So I'm thinking either single speed...or something with not a lot of gears and a single ring.

    If anyone here has run SS for commuting on their ogre what gearing did you use? Also is it possible to have a 1x7 or less?

    Thanks,

  7. #357
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    A few pic from Down Under are over due to bump this thread I reckon.
    Finally got my rear fender on.
    The fitting isnt complete yet as I'm awaiting my Mondials to arrive from Germany.
    I will likely use the Mondials to complete my visual "line" to get a equal gap as possible between my tire and fender.
    Not happy with the two SKS stainless brackets so will either replace these with the next size down or rethink the method of attachment.
    Still looking for someone who can do a good job of stainless welding so I can get my Velo Orange front rack fitted above my Tubus Nova low rider.








    Hi, rifraf.

    I've enjoyed looking at your build pictures. My Ogre will be arriving shortly, and I will be installing the Gilles Berthoud 700 x 60 fenders. I would like to know your thoughts about them as you've likely ridden for some time with them now. Also, I notice you have an Ortlieb handlebar bag. I will be using my Ogre for touring as well, and will be going with Ortlieb panniers front and rear, but I was thinking it would not work to add an Ortlieb handlebar bag to the Jones H bars that are on my Ogre. Have you toured yet with yours? What are your overall thoughts?

    Thank you in advance,
    Todd

  8. #358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Gidday Todd,
    Glad you liked the pics.

    The Ortlieb bar bag did not work with the Jeff Jones copy Titec J-bar handlebars.
    I left links in one of my posts for a Saint John Cycles adapter which sits on the steerer below the stem and above the top bearing of the headset.
    Let me know if you cant find it and I'll dig it out from sjs.com once again.
    Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 105 mm Extension - £16.99 (this one I think).

    I love my stainless Berthoud fenders but, the washer/adapter that fits up into the fork crown is designed for a smaller steerer causing the front of the fender to wonk from side to side.
    Buy Gilles Berthoud Gilles Berthoud Front Fender Silent Bloc Screw from SJS Cycles, fast delivery for the UK - £1.89

    Not owning a vernier/caliper set to measure, I've struggled to find a firm fitting washer to eliminate this movement.
    I live a long way from town so its more an issue of distance/time than availability for me.

    I'll be adding a small front flat rack with a fender support mounting (threaded hole to grab a bolt pushed up from underneath the front of the fender).
    VO Pass Hunter Front Rack
    Be aware if you wish to go done this route, the rack is not designed for suspension corrected forks and will need the fork crown stay/leg removed and welded in a different position to fit the fork crown mount (unless you want to remove and weld the brake boss stay legs - there's two).

    I've tried using some SKS mounts for the rear fender but I'm unhappy with them and will get some L shaped bits of stainless made up to attach the fender to my frames seatstay cross bar support and rear Tubus rack.
    SKS Stainless Steel rear mudguard bridge - £1.49
    If you go down the SKS fender mount route, go for the size smaller than your fenders.
    I think I went for the 65's which were a bit sloppy even with crimping (after taking advice which proved poor).

    Bike24 - Tubus Schutzblechhalter Edelstahl
    One of these should help if you've a Tubus rear rack (IMHO)

    First Ogre tour coming up this month all things being equal.
    Very shortly I'll be taking in the southern coast of Western Australia below Perth and hopefully getting to Albany and if the weather stays reasonable might get to Esperance.
    Sorry if my wording is not quite right in this post, just got home after a very long ride and I'm wrecked.
    I'll revisit the post tomorrow and edit any obvious mistakes.

    Caveat with the fender advice.
    I've done "NO" experimentation yet of rear wheel removal with the fender fitted.
    I'm hoping that with the front of the rear fender adjusted so its close to the tire (ask if you want pics) then there is a gap at the rear of the fender between finder and tire which I'm hopeful will allow wheel removal/installation with tire deflated.
    I've yet to have an opportunity to attempt this so be aware or perhaps beware.

    I'll put up with what ever the situation throws due to me needing fenders and loving the eye-candy that is stainless steel.
    I also like the perceived durability qualities of the material compared to what I read about alloy sets and its inherent cracking qualities for a limited weight gain.
    Last edited by rifraf; 03-06-2014 at 05:04 AM.

  9. #359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    Gidday Todd,
    Glad you liked the pics.

    The Ortlieb bar bag did not work with the Jeff Jones copy Titec J-bar handlebars.
    I left links in one of my posts for a Saint John Cycles adapter which sits on the steerer below the stem and above the top bearing of the headset.
    Let me know if you cant find it and I'll dig it out from sjs.com once again.
    Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 105 mm Extension - £16.99 (this one I think).

    I love my stainless Berthoud fenders but, the washer/adapter that fits up into the fork crown is designed for a smaller steerer causing the front of the fender to wonk from side to side.
    Buy Gilles Berthoud Gilles Berthoud Front Fender Silent Bloc Screw from SJS Cycles, fast delivery for the UK - £1.89

    Not owning a vernier/caliper set to measure, I've struggled to find a firm fitting washer to eliminate this movement.
    I live a long way from town so its more an issue of distance/time than availability for me.

    I'll be adding a small front flat rack with a fender support mounting (threaded hole to grab a bolt pushed up from underneath the front of the fender).
    VO Pass Hunter Front Rack
    Be aware if you wish to go done this route, the rack is not designed for suspension corrected forks and will need the fork crown stay/leg removed and welded in a different position to fit the fork crown mount (unless you want to remove and weld the brake boss stay legs - there's two).

    I've tried using some SKS mounts for the rear fender but I'm unhappy with them and will get some L shaped bits of stainless made up to attach the fender to my frames seatstay cross bar support and rear Tubus rack.
    SKS Stainless Steel rear mudguard bridge - £1.49
    If you go down the SKS fender mount route, go for the size smaller than your fenders.
    I think I went for the 65's which were a bit sloppy even with crimping (after taking advice which proved poor).

    Bike24 - Tubus Schutzblechhalter Edelstahl
    One of these should help if you've a Tubus rear rack (IMHO)

    First Ogre tour coming up this month all things being equal.
    Very shortly I'll be taking in the southern coast of Western Australia below Perth and hopefully getting to Albany and if the weather stays reasonable might get to Esperance.
    Sorry if my wording is not quite right in this post, just got home after a very long ride and I'm wrecked.
    I'll revisit the post tomorrow and edit any obvious mistakes.

    Caveat with the fender advice.
    I've done "NO" experimentation yet of rear wheel removal with the fender fitted.
    I'm hoping that with the front of the rear fender adjusted so its close to the tire (ask if you want pics) then there is a gap at the rear of the fender between finder and tire which I'm hopeful will allow wheel removal/installation with tire deflated.
    I've yet to have an opportunity to attempt this so be aware or perhaps beware.

    I'll put up with what ever the situation throws due to me needing fenders and loving the eye-candy that is stainless steel.
    I also like the perceived durability qualities of the material compared to what I read about alloy sets and its inherent cracking qualities for a limited weight gain.

    Thank you for the prompt reply, rifraf.

    Re: a handlebar bag, I think I've accepted the fact that with a Jones H bar I'll need to resort to a frame bag or perhaps a handlebar bag something like this:


    http://www.jonesbikes.com/Packs-Rack...funky.tpl.html


    I'll be mounting a Nitto Big Rack up front and a Tubus Cosmo on the rear, so I'll see how the fender install goes. Thanks for the links to the attachment accessories you provided.

    Your wording is just fine, and I trust that you didn't actually "wreck" on your ride!


    Look forward to hearing how your tours go!

    Thanks again,
    Todd

  10. #360
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    G'day Todd,
    after great procrastination, I can today confirm, using the above description of Berthoud fender installation, there is no problem with rear wheel removal when tire is deflated.
    Today I installed an Extrawheel trailer QR skewer on my Rohloff Ogre (large sizing is needed if anyone wants to know).
    I also had to cut the skewer to size once it was on and I took the time to give my rear wheel rim/spokes and hub a wipe down to remove oil splatter from my last over enthusiastic chain oiling.
    I've also given the chain a good clean.
    I needed to determine how best to achieve this maintenance which as it happened was with the bike resting on its handlebars and seat as opposed to on its side like I was worried about (I had to quickly remove my mirror to achieve this).
    Loving my new Brooks Flyer Special like I do, I made sure to place a rag underneath it to prevent marking it.
    Long story short, deflating the tire will allow its removal with no issue and no removal of fender mounts or stays necessary.
    Hope this makes your day as much as it did mine.

    I'm hoping to get away early next week for some touring of the South Coast of Western Australia so needed to catch up on some cleaning and maintenance as well as swapping out my Schwalbe Supremes for some burlier (or more Ogre-ish) Schwalbe Mondials in the hope of preventing punctures due to the rougher trails I plan on visiting.
    I've been utilising the Supremes on tarmac and they are a great tire, much lighter and less ponderous than the Schwalbe Big Apples I started with.

  11. #361
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    G'day Todd,
    after great procrastination, I can today confirm, using the above description of Berthoud fender installation, there is no problem with rear wheel removal when tire is deflated.
    Today I installed an Extrawheel trailer QR skewer on my Rohloff Ogre (large sizing is needed if anyone wants to know).
    I also had to cut the skewer to size once it was on and I took the time to give my rear wheel rim/spokes and hub a wipe down to remove oil splatter from my last over enthusiastic chain oiling.
    I've also given the chain a good clean.
    I needed to determine how best to achieve this maintenance which as it happened was with the bike resting on its handlebars and seat as opposed to on its side like I was worried about (I had to quickly remove my mirror to achieve this).
    Loving my new Brooks Flyer Special like I do, I made sure to place a rag underneath it to prevent marking it.
    Long story short, deflating the tire will allow its removal with no issue and no removal of fender mounts or stays necessary.
    Hope this makes your day as much as it did mine.

    I'm hoping to get away early next week for some touring of the South Coast of Western Australia so needed to catch up on some cleaning and maintenance as well as swapping out my Schwalbe Supremes for some burlier (or more Ogre-ish) Schwalbe Mondials in the hope of preventing punctures due to the rougher trails I plan on visiting.
    I've been utilising the Supremes on tarmac and they are a great tire, much lighter and less ponderous than the Schwalbe Big Apples I started with.


    Thanks again for the feedback rifraf. My Ogre is getting closer to being ready to roll. It is built, racks are on, and the dynohub and lights are in, just waiting on the fenders. I'll provide your recommendations to my LBS who will be completing the install.

    Again, looking forward to hearing about how your travels go.

    Cheers!
    Todd

  12. #362
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Getting closer!

    More parts are in. Jim at Bike Touring News will be building the front wheel with a New SON28 dynamo, B&M lights, and the Gilles BERTOUD fenders. Just waiting on the Brooks C17 saddle after that.

    Ogre Build Thread-20140317-img_0230-4.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-20140317-img_0231-2.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-20140317-img_0232-2.jpg

    Ogre Build Thread-20140317-img_0234-2.jpg

  13. #363
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    23

    Finished

    Hi All,
    Finished my build and have been riding it as a commuter for a number of weeks now, almost have the fit right just need a wider bar (currently 580mm) and slightly longer stem (currently 85mm). And eventually a better rack.

    The build was heaps of fun, bought the frame and built new wheels and then took parts off my old mtb.

    Rides beautifully with the Schwalbe marathon supremes (35C).

    Ogre Build Thread-2014-03-16-16.32.21.jpg

    Also I built the rear wheel with a Zee M640 (135x10mm) hub and use a quick-release through axle skewer so wheel removal is a breeze, the wheel just drops out like with vertical dropouts. Can put up more pictures if folks are interested.

  14. #364
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Gormson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6
    Hi western_rider's_dad , what front rack is that? Thanks a lot.

  15. #365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by Gormson View Post
    Hi western_rider's_dad , what front rack is that? Thanks a lot.
    Quote Originally Posted by western_rider's_dad View Post
    I'll be mounting a Nitto Big Rack up front and a Tubus Cosmo on the rear
    Todd
    There you go

  16. #366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    There you go

    Thanks, rifraf!

  17. #367
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1

    CX Build

    Here's my little baby. It started life as a MTB, did a year as a flat bar commuter and now it's a CX racer. One day I'll put gears and racks on it and ride off into the sunset....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-img_00000741.jpg  


  18. #368
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    2

    Surly Ogre do it all.

    Hello, newbie here.
    I got a lot of sound advise and info off this MTBR forum before thinning my stable and investing it all into 1 bike. I hope I can help out anyone interested in getting into an Ogre.
    I was looking for a bike I could commute on, tour the great highways and byways of Norcal and not flinch at all when the pavement ended. With the right tires, I can even have a blast on the single track of Bidwell Park here in Chico.
    I am 6'2" with a 34" inseam, 180lbs., and I got the 22" ogre. I run a Thomson setback seat post and a Thomson 110mm 15 deg. stem. With 175mm crank arms, this bike is a great fit. I feel "in" the bike rather than on top of it. The 20" felt to small for me and I had a ton of seat post sticking out.
    I run Paul Component 36h Hubs laced to Delgado rims, old school XTR derailleurs, XT crankset with Salsa rings. Paul Motolite V brakes with Cane Creek Drop V levers and Paul cross levers for the flat section of the Salsa Woodchipper bars. I run bar end shifters because I am used to them and they are so damn bombproof. An Old Man Mountain Cold Springs rear rack can be easily mounted or taken off and I have invested in some Revelate Designs custom bags (Frame bag and gas tank) and a pair of Salsa everything cages with 5L Ortlieb dry bags for the front fork. It is perfect for a dirt road overnighter in the pines or stuff it full and add the rear rack and panniers and I am good for a week to the coast. Very versatile, functional and durable.
    I am very impressed with this bike. The 4130 steel frame is not subtle or lightweight but it is forgiving and strong. Fully loaded, I can descend with conviction and do not get any wobble at all. Get up out of the saddle fully loaded on the steepest ascents and pedal like mad; the bike is stable. I feel confident on dirt roads, washboards, and even on long stretches of pavement or highways, sometimes our edges and shoulders can be sketchy at best. The ogre gives you a lot of confidence in its stability.
    I have been running 700x40c Schwalbe Marathon Mondials for over a year now through everything. Not 1 flat and they have a great reflective strip on the sidewall that really gets the attention of motorists.
    I hope this is helpful to someone. I know this is primarily a MTB forum but thought that someone might be able to glean a bit of helpful info out of this.
    Cheers and have a good ride!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-img_0171.jpg  

    Ogre Build Thread-img_1070.jpg  


  19. #369
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cobiator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by potahal View Post
    Can put up more pictures if folks are interested.
    Please, please, please put up many pictures of your rear setup. (I just re-read this and...PHRASING!!!)

    I'm very interested in how well the Thru-axle setup works with fenders and such.

    Thanks!

  20. #370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by cobiator View Post
    I'm very interested in how well the Thru-axle setup works with fenders and such.
    Thanks!
    The thru-axle works very well with fenders. Wheel removal is essentially the same as with vertical dropouts.

    I didn't buy a thru-axle skewer, just go my father to turn up a spacer on the lathe.
    The spacer is 10mm OD and 147mm long, it his drilled with a 5.3mm hole and slides over a standard 5mm rear skewer.

    The pictures show how much of the spacer sits in the trackends (about 6mm either side). To remove the wheel I just take the end of the skewer off and pull out the entire skewer+spacer.

    I can then just pull the wheel downward as in a normal vertical dropout. As you can see I'm using a shadow type derailleur with no problems. No need to touch the fenders to remove the wheel.

    Here are a few pics:
    Drive side
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0001.jpg
    Brake side
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0002.jpg
    End of the skewer off
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0005.jpg
    Skewer and spacer
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0008.jpg
    Re-inserting the wheel, lining up the disc into the caliper. Goes in from below...
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0010.jpg
    Skewer goes in...
    Ogre Build Thread-img_0012.jpg
    and then the drive side is pushed up.
    Last edited by potahal; 04-21-2014 at 06:49 PM. Reason: typo, 147 not 143mm spacer

  21. #371
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cobiator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    30
    Thanks so much for the detailed pics and explanation. I cobbled my Ogre up this weekend out of spare mtb parts, with an ok set of wheels. I'll definitely be building a wheelset much like yours with the the thru-axle for ease of exchange.

    Thanks again!

  22. #372
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Bout time this thread had a bump and I've some updated pics to add.

    I added a Philips Lumiring tail-light to my Cosmo rack and I'm very happy with it:


    I built up an Extrawheel trailer with a wheel mirroring my Ogres front wheel of Son28 dynohub, Sapim CX-rays and Velocity Dyad rim.

    I discovered issues with the trailer in that I couldn't utilise the trailers fender with a 2 inch Supreme or Mondial tire.

    Another issue was the Extrawheel trailers "forks" ran too close to me Ogres rear fender stays:





    So I've redrilled my fender to raise the stays in an attempt to nutralise the problem of the trailer wanting to wallop the fender stays when going over a bump greater than an inch:



    The trailer Nutts QR skewer wasn't up to the job so in order to now try some nuts attached to the Ogres dropouts, I'll have to get each of my tuggnuts uppermost bottle opener machined off:



    I finally got around to getting the fork crown stay of my Velo Orange Pass Hunter rack welded into a different position allowing me to fit it to my Ogre.
    I got the stainless engineer to make the addition of a tab to attach my Edelux headlight to one of the V-brake stays. I'm very happy with it.







    Other than some shiny steel eye candy, my wanting the small front rack was mainly for a secondary mounting point for my front fender.
    The roads are steeply undulating where I am and its been a bit of a worry thinking about my front fenders single top mounting point of the fork crown bolt.
    Now two attachment points have to give way to let the fender drop onto the front wheel and send me over the bars at speed.
    The Ortlieb handlebar bag I use means there wont be much real use for it as a proper rack whilst touring.
    Around home however it works well as a mounting point for my aluminum camera case which I like to be up front where I can keep an eye on it.

  23. #373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    do you find you need that non drive side tugnut? doesn't the rohloff torque arm (oem2) plate hold it where you want it to be?

  24. #374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    do you find you need that non drive side tugnut? doesn't the rohloff torque arm (oem2) plate hold it where you want it to be?
    I find I do need both tuggnutts.
    In fact I've never before owned a bike thats such a PITA for wheel position.
    Brake rub appears to be the bane of my life with this bike for some reason.
    Its come out of bike shops worse than when it went in when I've given up in frustration and decided to let "experts" have a crack.
    I suspect that the drop outs are fractionally too big, giving me a slightly different wheel position every time either wheel comes out.
    Especially the front where adjustment of the caliper didnt quite sort it but after repeated attempts, I found with the caliper adjusted angled fully outward, I still had to slightly "angle" the wheel in the forks drops to get a position where it didnt make the disk "zing" when riding.
    This manifested itself worse when I got rid of the pitlock skewer its been using for some time.
    I had to give up on the skewer after repeatedly misplacing the "key" for it and having to empty my handlebar bag and panniers a couple of times in search of it.
    I've had issues with the rear wheel moving in the drops but think its now staying put.
    When I had only one tuggnut I had issues with (I think) the non driveside moving.
    Not lots but enough to make the disk touch the pad/pads.

  25. #375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    yeah ok, i never had trouble with mine at the back, using just the one tugnut on the drive side.
    here's a recent pic of mine, about to go a "refresh"


  26. #376
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Hi, rifraf.

    Thanks for the additional pictures. After a couple of months, I'm starting to experience more creaks and rattles on my Ogre, I think are due to the fenders. I'll look at adding more mounting points of the fenders to the front and rear racks, like what you have done. I was wondering if the single set of fender stays would be adequate on these, as all my other fenders in the past have had two sets of stays per fender.

    Thanks again!

  27. #377
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by western_rider's_dad View Post
    Hi, rifraf.

    Thanks for the additional pictures. After a couple of months, I'm starting to experience more creaks and rattles on my Ogre, I think are due to the fenders. I'll look at adding more mounting points of the fenders to the front and rear racks, like what you have done. I was wondering if the single set of fender stays would be adequate on these, as all my other fenders in the past have had two sets of stays per fender.

    Thanks again!
    Where are your pics with fenders?
    Cant wait for a squiz.
    Cept for loose stones, mine seem pretty quiet.
    Some people swear by leather or rubber washers but mine arnt yet an issue.
    My Rohloff noise is more annoying to me.

  28. #378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post


    So I've redrilled my fender to raise the stays in an attempt to nutralise the problem of the trailer wanting to wallop the fender stays when going over a bump greater than an inch:



    I finally got around to getting the fork crown stay of my Velo Orange Pass Hunter rack welded into a different position allowing me to fit it to my Ogre.
    I got the stainless engineer to make the addition of a tab to attach my Edelux headlight to one of the V-brake stays. I'm very happy with it.






    Other than some shiny steel eye candy, my wanting the small front rack was mainly for a secondary mounting point for my front fender.
    The roads are steeply undulating where I am and its been a bit of a worry thinking about my front fenders single top mounting point of the fork crown bolt.
    Now two attachment points have to give way to let the fender drop onto the front wheel and send me over the bars at speed.
    The Ortlieb handlebar bag I use means there wont be much real use for it as a proper rack whilst touring.
    Around home however it works well as a mounting point for my aluminum camera case which I like to be up front where I can keep an eye on it.


    Hi again, rifraf!

    Could you perhaps include a close-up picture of your additional front fender mounting hardware, that attached the fender to your front rack? Also, since moving the fender stays up higher on your rear rack, do you feel they are any more or less secure?

    Still working on stiffening (and dampening) my fenders. ;-)

    Thanks!
    Todd

  29. #379
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    186
    I needed this info too, and am marking it

  30. #380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by western_rider's_dad View Post
    Hi again, rifraf!

    Could you perhaps include a close-up picture of your additional front fender mounting hardware, that attached the fender to your front rack? Also, since moving the fender stays up higher on your rear rack, do you feel they are any more or less secure?

    Still working on stiffening (and dampening) my fenders. ;-)

    Thanks!
    Todd
    Hi Todd,
    I'll try to get my camera out over the weekend as I've put it away somewhere and not 100% where.
    I've got to find it for an upcoming tour so will do a search on Sat.
    In the meantime check out the colour pic on velo oranges page:
    VO Pass Hunter Front Rack - Racks - Racks & Decaleurs - Accessories
    The one with the rack bag on it. (Click it for a close up)
    If you run your eye up the rack stay that attaches via the brake boss, you'll see a cross member in the middle of the rack. This has an attachment bolt through the fender illustrated in this pic. Its roughly in the halfway point of the rack bridging the two sides of the flat rack. It has a threaded hole in the center which the bolt attaches after you thread it up through the fender from underneath.

    My rear fender seems fine since I changed the mounting position.
    I've noticed no difference or movement in it since doing this.
    I'm thinking a red reflective tape strip should adequately camouflage the two now unused holes.
    The Gilles Berthoud fender stays are heavy duty and being a single piece that wraps around the fender, are much stiffer than conventional stays.

  31. #381
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    just an updated pic of my Ogre frame, back from my powdercoater. it's going to be back together this coming weekend i hope.

    much sparkle in the sun.

    news to me Rohloff no longer offer polished silver rather an annodised finish, i like it.




  32. #382
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Hi Stevejfromthestwitch,
    Nice colour.
    Cant wait to see your new build.
    Did you rob your previous Ogre build to make up a Krampus or ECR?

    I think I said earlier I was having issues with my Extrawheel trailer.
    It was hitting my Ogres mudguard stays.
    I moved the fender stays upwards and now enjoy approx 13 inches of upward trailer articulation.




    I've also added trailer nuts to my frame after grinding off the uppermost bottle openers from my two tug-nuts.


  33. #383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    Just got mine back together, need to get my B17 back on there


  34. #384
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lextek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    180
    Love the blue color!

  35. #385
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
    Bout time this thread had a bump and I've some updated pics to add.
    Holy nalgenes batman! Where do you get bottle racks that carry nalgenes? Do you ride much off trail with those, will they actually hold nalgenes?

  36. #386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by drews256 View Post
    Holy nalgenes batman! Where do you get bottle racks that carry nalgenes? Do you ride much off trail with those, will they actually hold nalgenes?
    BBB XL Fueltanks from memory.
    I had to remove the top clips which are useful for coke bottle 1.5 litres but don't play nice with the Nalgenes.
    I was told to use some straps but so far the bottles haven't moved either full or empty.
    I tour with my bike so as not seeking any air, my riding, even off road, is fairly staid (slow)

  37. #387
    mtbr member
    Reputation: L4NE4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    720
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Just got mine back together, need to get my B17 back on there

    Looks awesome! What front rack is that? Looks like a salsa
    "Never mistake motion for action."

    "If I can bicycle, I bicycle."

  38. #388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    Yep salsa minimalist.

  39. #389
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2

    My Front Loaded Bikepacking Ogre

    Thought I'd share mine. Weight upfront, which I like, seems to balance out the bike.
    Downunder racks with anything cages. Ground clearance could be better, but we'll see. I'm not doing tech single track anyways.

    I used 5mm nylon spacers on the anything cages to allow the down under rack's mid-fork attachment to get in position.

    And, yes, thats a 64oz beer flask.

    Ogre Build Thread-img_2849.jpgOgre Build Thread-img_2856.jpgOgre Build Thread-img_2858.jpgOgre Build Thread-img_2859.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-img_2859.jpg  


  40. #390
    mtbr member
    Reputation: fire_strom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    230
    Hi all
    I've been loving my Ogre for a while but I've determined that the medium I bought is a bit small for me. Any chance anyone wants to trade me for their large? I am talking frame and fork only. I'll send pictures to anyone interested. Mine is the Army Green one.
    -Scott

  41. #391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    17
    Wow... Tons of information and pics!

    I have a question and please forgive me if it seems lazy (maybe all the answers are already here). I'm set on getting an Ogre. It will cost $1700 to have it shipped to my LBS and assembled. I rode one; it's awesome stock and I would customize it with time.

    I'm wondering if it would be worth it to buy the frame and build from there to save a few bucks... Mainly, I could care less about the disc brakes. Everything else that comes stock is fine. I would prefer to just ride with one rear caliper brake.

    Could I find significant savings by scaling back the brake setup and finding the rest of the parts, or would it be a royal pain for an amateur?

  42. #392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    I don't think you ever save a penny from a self build.
    I think you just use what ever potential saving there might have been to buy upgraded components.

  43. #393
    Did I catch a niner+?
    Reputation: Mr Pink57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,905
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Just got mine back together, need to get my B17 back on there

    http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps154f09af.jpg
    Dat color though....
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  44. #394
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    I just swapped out my Titec J-bar to the genuine Jones Loop bar today.
    Having the full loop and being able to now mount my Edge 800 in the centre of the front bar of the loop means I've more easily attained hand grip positions than the J-bar offered.

    I've also swapped out my straight Thomson seat-post to a set-back version as well as trailing a Brooks B17 Special to see how it fairs comfort-wise over my Champion Flyer Special.
    I've not yet done enough miles to make up my mind.
    If my Flyer Special goes back on, its getting some eye candy via a swop out of its black springs for some B67 chrome ones.

    I'm still enjoying my Ogre and although the idea of the World Troller is tempting, I'm inclined to stick with what I've got.

    I've found the Ogre more of a wet noodle heavily laden than I anticipated or heard about in forums but with my riding style being slow and casual, I can live with the foible.

    Oh another issue thats bothered me is the thread in the holes in the dropouts for trailer nuts was surprisingly sloppy (and yes I double checked I had the correct size and thread for the bolts I utilised).
    They tightened up ok after I dremelled off the head of the bolt and slotted it so I could use a screwdriver to wind it into the dropout trailer nuts threaded holes.
    Threading on the trailer nuts and tightening against the dropouts seems to have gotten things secure but I've purchased some thread tape and Locktight product and am going to have another crack at them.
    I don't want to lose a trailer nut out on the road miles from anywhere and I'm hesitant about tack welding them in place as was suggested by someone.

  45. #395
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    keen to see how you manage to put the ortlieb handlebar bag with the jones bar. I just bought the bag and haven't decided yet but thinking about an accessory bar mounted lower just for the bar

  46. #396
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    keen to see how you manage to put the ortlieb handlebar bag with the jones bar. I just bought the bag and haven't decided yet but thinking about an accessory bar mounted lower just for the bar
    I've been rocking a Titec J-bar from the get go so grabbed a Thorn accessory bar to accommodate the Ortlieb Ultimate bar-bag.
    Here are some pics form one of my posts a few pages back of the Thorn accessory bar and Titec J-bar handlebar:

  47. #397
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    The links I tried to copy didn't work for some reason so here is hopefully some new links to the pics:











    These were all posted some pages back with the Titec J-bar.
    My steerer is uncut and the accessory bar is halfway down the steerer.
    The handle-bars are slightly angled down at the grips end.
    No probs lifting the lid, which opens from the rear forewards, at all and the lid has no contact with the bars.
    The J-bars seem exactly the same size and angles as the 660 Loop H bars.
    My new bars are the wider H bar of 710 and although they are the full loop, as opposed to the J-bars cutout, there is no issue with the bar-bag.
    I'll try for a pic of the new Jones bar on the bike a little later and post.

  48. #398
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    387
    i'm not sure i left as much steerer as you. i've got the same adapter and i plan to try it on this weekend. flip it down, stem up, hopefully still enough to get the lid open and clear under the jones bar. stay tuned....

  49. #399
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    i'm not sure i left as much steerer as you. i've got the same adapter and i plan to try it on this weekend. flip it down, stem up, hopefully still enough to get the lid open and clear under the jones bar. stay tuned....
    Looking forward to seeing your pics.
    Looking at the pics I see my Thorn accessory bar is angled and I've fitted it with the angle pointing downward at the front.
    I think pic two shows this clearest..
    Love that blue of your bike.

    For anyone following in our tire prints, the Thorn accessory bar is available from SJS Cycles in the UK, in a few different sizes

    Be aware I'm using a very short 50mm stem

    Pretty sure the one I got was:
    Thorn Accessory Bar T Shaped 105 mm Extension - £16.99

    The bar-bag can be extended further out by an accessory
    This is the bracket and this is the extender.


    Despite what the description says, mine was supplied with clamps for both standard and oversized handlebars.


    SJS Cycles can also supply the chrome springs I was talking about to swap out the black ones of my Flyer Special for a little eye candy.
    Brooks Right Hand Coil Spring - £5.99

  50. #400
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    487
    Steve what size/model grips did you go with for your Jones bar.
    I got a bit stumped with the ESI Chunky sizing.
    Like yourself, I've a Rohloff in the rear.

    Can the ESI grips be cut down slightly if needed without looking raggedly?
    I've also a mirror on the "Hoff" shifter side which with the Avid Speeddial 7 levers take up far more realestate on that side of the bars compared to the left.

Page 8 of 9 FirstFirst ... 456789 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. surly ogre
    By 1971tch in forum Surly
    Replies: 2040
    Last Post: 12-11-2016, 12:03 PM
  2. I am an Ogre!
    By Dalton in forum Commuting
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 06-03-2012, 01:22 PM
  3. Replies: 19
    Last Post: 02-15-2009, 05:46 AM
  4. Ogre Dung!
    By Joseph-da-trog in forum California - Norcal
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-07-2006, 09:36 PM
  5. A Big Thank You From Ogre & Fiona
    By Ogre in forum Passion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-29-2005, 08:24 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •