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  1. #126
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    New Ogre

    My Ogre is now complete.

    Frameset- Ogre size 20, fully treated with linseed oil (classy stuff);
    Headset- FSA Orbit MX;
    Stem- Thomson Elite X4 90mm;
    Handlebar- Easton EA70 Wide;
    Barends- Titec Micro;
    Seatpost- Thomson Elite;
    Saddle- Fizik Gobi XM;
    Wheels- On One Reetard, got these ones for 100 the pair with tires and tubes some years ago. Heavy but really tough and rigid, will keep them for a while;
    Tires- Kenda SB8;
    Derailleurs- Shimano XT;
    Cassette- Custom Shimano 12-36 XT;
    Shifters- Shimano Dura Ace on Paul thumbies;
    Crankset- Shimano Hone with Surly steel middle ring;
    Brakes- Avid BB7;
    Pedals- Time ATAC Alium. I'm looking to replace them with someting that can be used with regular shoes and hiking boots. Still undecided between go for the Time Zs or get a pair of quality low profile flats;
    Grips- Ritchey WCS.








  2. #127
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    Awesome !! Nice build. I am glad to see you finally got it.

  3. #128
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    Congrats on the new Ogre, it's a great looking bike!

  4. #129
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    Thanks!
    Just arrived from my first ride with it, a relaxed 8km loop around my house. Couldn't be happier with the bike. The size is spot on. It's nimbler than my previous Swift, easier to flick around. The Swift was a little more stable downhill. The Ogre is a little stiffer to, but not at the expense of confort. Standover is a lot better to. Was expecting a somewhat harsh fork, but was wrong. Really impressive, if we consider that it is a fully capable expedition bike.
    I can now understand all the success of the Karate Monkey platform over the years

  5. #130
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    Love the thumb shifters! Nice build!

  6. #131
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    Glad to hear you like it. How did you like the SB8's? I looked at some yesterday but ended up with Maxxis Crossmark's. Hoping they are fast on dirt, gravel and pavement.

  7. #132
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    My SB8s are really old, the rear one even has several dental floss sews. They are great tires if you stay away from mud, sand or grass. They roll really fast and are surprisingly grippy on most conditions. They could use a little more volume and the sidewalls are somewhat fragile. I'm going to get some Continental Race or X Kings next, just to try out

  8. #133
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    With the Crossmarks: Had a nice 8 miles spin on them last night after mounting. They are much faster on pavement than the Exi's. Hope to get them on a longer ride this weekend.


  9. #134
    dying hurts.
    Reputation: johnny the boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ze_Zaskar View Post
    My Ogre is now complete.

    Frameset- Ogre size 20, fully treated with linseed oil (classy stuff);
    Headset- FSA Orbit MX;
    Stem- Thomson Elite X4 90mm;
    Handlebar- Easton EA70 Wide;
    Barends- Titec Micro;
    Seatpost- Thomson Elite;
    Saddle- Fizik Gobi XM;
    Wheels- On One Reetard, got these ones for 100 the pair with tires and tubes some years ago. Heavy but really tough and rigid, will keep them for a while;
    Tires- Kenda SB8;
    Derailleurs- Shimano XT;
    Cassette- Custom Shimano 12-36 XT;
    Shifters- Shimano Dura Ace on Paul thumbies;
    Crankset- Shimano Hone with Surly steel middle ring;
    Brakes- Avid BB7;
    Pedals- Time ATAC Alium. I'm looking to replace them with someting that can be used with regular shoes and hiking boots. Still undecided between go for the Time Zs or get a pair of quality low profile flats;
    Grips- Ritchey WCS.







    awesome looking ogre!!
    what is your saddle height? i'm in between the 18" and 20" and wanted to get a general idea of what my seatpost extension would look like!!
    thanks!!

  10. #135
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    Thanks
    The top of the saddle is 75cm from the BB center. Hope this helps

  11. #136
    KMRIA
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    front rack

    Quote Originally Posted by daves4mtb View Post
    Hey, I like your front rack! What is that? Where can I get one?
    CETMA Cargo, made in OR:

    CETMA Cargo bikes CETMA Racks

  12. #137
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    Surly says the 2013 Ogres will be black (Blog | Surly Bikes). That was all the incentive I needed to order a 2012 frameset. Nothing wrong with black, but I have enough black bikes already and army green just looks right on the Ogre.

    I am still mulling over the details of the build. I am thinking NuVinci N360 rear hub, Surly Open Bar on an uncut steerer, maybe a Knard/Rabbit Hole on the front when I can get them...

  13. #138
    I Ride for Donuts
    Reputation: CommuterBoy's Avatar
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    The latest incarnation of mine... so. much. fun.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-ogre.jpg  

    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  14. #139
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    Hi All- I've been lurking on this forum for a couple of months while deciding exactly what to build and how. Now that Ogre 20" frames are back in stock all around, I've ordered mine from Jenson, and most of the components. I waffled back and forth between the Ogre and Salsa Fargo, but finally decided that the Fargo's drop bar design may be too limiting, and the Ogre really lets me make choices later, once I've felt it out. I'm from the States but live in Bangkok, Thailand, so can't really test ride.

    In any case, the build I'm about to do-- starting mid-September when I get back from the states is a touring/adventure touring build. All out of town riding here (and much of that in-town) is pretty much trail riding, so think 'light cross country + touring" as my gig. I'm a heavy guy-- over 250-- so am going for strength and durability. Here's what the build looks like now.

    Frame...
    36h DT Swiss 540 rims
    -Shimano 36h XT rear hub
    Shimano Dyna front hub (36h) w/adapter kit for converting center-lock to 6-bolt...
    -Shimano XT-Touring 10 sp drivetrain 48-36-26 and 11-36 cassette- ordered from bike24 in Germany- apparetly not sold in the US
    Titec H-Bars- maybe use my butterfly bars or try drops at some point.
    Brooks Flyer saddle (now on my Bianchi hybrid being broken in)
    Nice Rack front rack
    Avid BB7s & FR-5 levers
    Serfas Drifter 29x2.0 cross tires

    For the moment-- until my son crosses over from Topeak seat to extenda-bike, I'll continue using my baby-stock Topeak rear rack. He's 34lbs on a 40lb capacity rig, so not long.

    This forum really inspired me to think through this build, and again, because I'm in Thailand and will buy most of the components on a semi-annual trip back to the states (and save hundreds), it has to be pretty well thought out in advance.

    So...anybody have thoughts about what else to take into account on this build? Again, mostly touring and light adventure touring build.

    Will post pictures in progress.

    Looking forward to hearing from Ogre-riders!

  15. #140
    KMRIA
    Reputation: Lunger's Avatar
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    Ogre on transport duty...

    ...w/a Bill Trailer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ogre Build Thread-p8223871_edited-1.jpg  


  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by yakyai View Post
    Hi All- I've been lurking on this forum for a couple of months while deciding exactly what to build and how. Now that Ogre 20" frames are back in stock all around, I've ordered mine from Jenson, and most of the components. I waffled back and forth between the Ogre and Salsa Fargo, but finally decided that the Fargo's drop bar design may be too limiting, and the Ogre really lets me make choices later, once I've felt it out. I'm from the States but live in Bangkok, Thailand, so can't really test ride.

    In any case, the build I'm about to do-- starting mid-September when I get back from the states is a touring/adventure touring build. All out of town riding here (and much of that in-town) is pretty much trail riding, so think 'light cross country + touring" as my gig. I'm a heavy guy-- over 250-- so am going for strength and durability. Here's what the build looks like now.

    Frame...
    36h DT Swiss 540 rims
    -Shimano 36h XT rear hub
    Shimano Dyna front hub (36h) w/adapter kit for converting center-lock to 6-bolt...
    -Shimano XT-Touring 10 sp drivetrain 48-36-26 and 11-36 cassette- ordered from bike24 in Germany- apparetly not sold in the US
    Titec H-Bars- maybe use my butterfly bars or try drops at some point.
    Brooks Flyer saddle (now on my Bianchi hybrid being broken in)
    Nice Rack front rack
    Avid BB7s & FR-5 levers
    Serfas Drifter 29x2.0 cross tires

    For the moment-- until my son crosses over from Topeak seat to extenda-bike, I'll continue using my baby-stock Topeak rear rack. He's 34lbs on a 40lb capacity rig, so not long.

    This forum really inspired me to think through this build, and again, because I'm in Thailand and will buy most of the components on a semi-annual trip back to the states (and save hundreds), it has to be pretty well thought out in advance.

    So...anybody have thoughts about what else to take into account on this build? Again, mostly touring and light adventure touring build.

    Will post pictures in progress.

    Looking forward to hearing from Ogre-riders!
    Let us know how much clearance you have with your 48t chainring... I've been spinning out a bit with my 44.

  17. #142
    I Ride for Donuts
    Reputation: CommuterBoy's Avatar
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    ^^ I'd think a 48 will be fine. I put a 50 on mine when I was building it up... it was tight, but it would have worked fine. There are pics further back in this thread I think.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  18. #143
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    What potential clearance problems?

    Quote Originally Posted by CommuterBoy View Post
    ^^ I'd think a 48 will be fine. I put a 50 on mine when I was building it up... it was tight, but it would have worked fine.
    Just curious- what were the potential clearance problems? What should I be looking out for?

    Thanks,

  19. #144
    I Ride for Donuts
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    I put a 50/34 road double on there, and there was minimal clearance between the chainring and the chainstay... the 50 tooth cleared the chainstay by a few mm's, and probably would have been OK...it was close though. The 34 tooth was actually closer to the chainstay, because of the way the chainstay curves to make room for bigger tires. I have detailed pictures of this on one of the threads in here, but I can't find them for the life of me. I even went to my 'user gallery', and found a whole slew of pictures that I didn't take and that I've never seen before...along with several dozen copies of a few of the pictures I have posted. What is the point of that?

    Anyway, I used 2 spacers on the drive side, and I think you could get a 50 to work fine, but it will be very close to the chainstay. I ran this crankset like this on my old bike (Access 29er), and it was even closer to the chainstay, and I never had any problems with it, but I was always a little afraid of sucking a chain down into that gap... would have been ugly, but I rode it for 3 years and it never happened.


    Edit: Found one:
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by CommuterBoy View Post
    I put a 50/34 road double on there, and there was minimal clearance between the chainring and the chainstay... the 50 tooth cleared the chainstay by a few mm's, and probably would have been OK...it was close though..
    Road doubles have a narrower chainline than MTN cranks, so the 50t on your road double would be more like the position of the middle ring on a MTN triple. The picture is still a very good example of the clearance available tho (manufacturers should show CAD drawing of the clearance i think, so many combos available at the moment and the bikes are never tested with the one you want to use!)

  21. #146
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    48T Outer Chainring- Mistake?

    Guess I'm going to have to wait to see how the outer chainring works, as it is in transit from Europe now, and won't have the frame back here for a few weeks.

    If anybody else has tried an Ogre build with a 48 T outer chainring (on a 48-36-26), I'd love to hear your experience. If its' definitely problematic, I'll just exchange it straight away.

    Thanks for your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by dickyelsdon View Post
    Road doubles have a narrower chainline than MTN cranks, so the 50t on your road double would be more like the position of the middle ring on a MTN triple. The picture is still a very good example of the clearance available tho (manufacturers should show CAD drawing of the clearance i think, so many combos available at the moment and the bikes are never tested with the one you want to use!)

  22. #147
    I Ride for Donuts
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    ^^ The 36 is going to be closer than the 48. I'd run a 48 without hesitation. The 36 would make me nervous, but I bet you could still run it with no issues. I ran my 50 impossibly close to the chainstay on my last bike, and never had any issues.

    On chainline, I wound up with a very good chainline for the 50 tooth, even with two spacers on that side. Definitely narrower than a mountian triple.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  23. #148
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    So whats the recommended wheelset for an Orge? For touring and commuting?

    I've seen the mavic 719s on a bunch of bikes in this thread...

  24. #149
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    Attach a Burley to a Surly Ogre

    Hi, I'm finishing up my Surly Ogre build (build was actually done by a good friend, more reassembly) and I'm wondering what people recommend on how to best attach a Burley. There seems to be a handful of options. I'm leaning toward bolting the quick release bracket using one of the bolts and holes designed for attaching a trailer. Appreciate the thoughts. I'll post complete build specs soon with a photo.

  25. #150
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
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    Not sure if the hitch mounts the same but my Chariot uses a hitch that bolts to the axle and using the stock XT QR or the longer QR that comes with the hitch, both work fine.


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