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  1. #1
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    Is my CrossCheck just too big?

    Hey guys! I've been in a size battle with my Surlys for the last two years.

    I started on a 56 LHT, too big. 57cm eTT

    Picked up 54 CrossCheck, 56 eTT... Still feels a little too big. (80mm stem, no setback)

    Now I pedaled around a 52 today and it felt right at home (90mm stem, setback post), but I get toe over lap. The 52 has an eTT measurement of 54.7.

    I really think I need a bike with an effective top tube of around 54.5cm... but a longer wheelbase? Does this make sense?

    My fit knowledge is pretty much exclusive to mountain bikes. I have my first century coming up this summer and I REALLY need to get this figured out. Thanks everyone.

    EDIT // I just noticed that my Velo Orange bars have a reach of 120mm, what if I switched to something like the Salsa Short and Shallow with 82mm of reach?

    Annnd photo's just because...

    (Taken before the Thomson straight seatpost)





    Adam Ann Arbor, MI

  2. #2
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    How did this bike feel when you had the flat bar on it? I think you're on to something with the handlebars, the VO ones look great but yeah they do have a lot of reach. I'd definitely try out bars with shorter reach before going to a different size frame.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  3. #3
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    Now that you you mention the flat bars... the bike actually felt really good when I did that, just didn't dig the style, and that was with a 90mm stem.

    Moar photo:

    (referenced flat bar setup)

    Adam Ann Arbor, MI

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADDam
    I started on a 56 LHT, too big. 57cm eTT

    Picked up 54 CrossCheck, 56 eTT... Still feels a little too big. (80mm stem, no setback)

    Now I pedaled around a 52 today and it felt right at home (90mm stem, setback post), but I get toe over lap. The 52 has an eTT measurement of 54.7
    There's a lot of moving parts; I have a 54cm LHT and CC, both w/ 100mm stems and 0 setback seatposts. I don't really know how much reach is in the drops on either one. CC has 165mm cranks, LHT has 175; I am coming to definitely prefer the 165s. I could go down a frame size but not up I don't think. I have jacked the seatpost higher on the CC, don't know if it's just the crank length (that's the main measurable difference) or what.

  5. #5
    Abby Normal
    Reputation: Holmes's Avatar
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    Maybe try dirt drops like Midge bars or Origin 8 Gary Bars? I had similar issues when I bought my LHT a few years back - I had only ridden mtn bikes and the reach to the drops just felt weird. I started out with hi-rise stems and short reach bars, but over time got used to regular drops and a longer reach.

    That said, you could also rock some alt-bars like the Surly Open Bars or Nitto Albatross. I have Albatross bars on my LHT now and absolutely love them.



    I've wrapped the bends with bar tape, which is actually a nice extra position to stretch out and get a skosh more 'aero'. Really like this setup.

  6. #6
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    I've had similar issues with mine feeling too big with a longish top tube. I ride the 62 with about a fist of seatpost showing above the top of the collar with 165 cranks. I've come to think that its really a matter of getting used to the more stretched position since, like you I come from MTBs and BMX. I think I could have been fine on a 60 as well, though I wish they had a bit more headtube.

  7. #7
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    Looking at where your bars are relative to your brake hoods, I would guess you might like your bars quite a bit higher than where they are now. I'm pretty comfy on my Fargo with the bars 2-3" above the saddle. Yes, it's not a classic road fit, but maybe I have different expectations coming from an mtb background. On my CC, I can't quite get this comfortable.

  8. #8
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    Surlys run long in the toptubes for some reason. You should try both the short/shallow bars in combo with a stem with more rise. The added rise will effectively "shorten" the toptube.

    "-- As the handlebar gets higher, your arm becomes more horizontal, effectively getting longer.
    -- As the bar gets higher, it also retreats toward you. How much? On a bike with a 73.5-degree head tube, raising it 4cm brings it back 1.5cm.
    -- Getting a shorter stem without also raising the bars can have a self-cancelling effect. And if you raise the bars, you may even need a longer stem.
    -- Top tubes of a given length tend to feel shorter on bigger frames than on smaller ones, so if you currently ride a 56cm bike with a 55cm top tube, but you know you can fit a 58cm frame, don't be scared off it just because it has a 57cm top tube."
    taken from here: http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_...g_a_frame_size

    Also, if you like a slight amount of flare like the VO bars, you should try the Salsa Bell Lap. It has the same amount of reach as the short&shallow bar, but with 12 degrees of flare like the VO bar.
    Last edited by McFlyMpls; 04-25-2011 at 11:07 AM.

  9. #9
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    So I measured out the 52 we have at the shop, and If I run my 80mm stem, with Salsa Short and Shallow's, I should have about the same reach on my 54, with the wheelbase to clear to my size 12 feet! Sweet.

    Running the Short and Shallows should shorten my reach by about 38mm, that should be comfy!

    Adam
    Adam Ann Arbor, MI

  10. #10
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    I just switched to a Salsa stem with more rise, it's like 90 x 20 or something? and I run Bell Laps which have the same reach as the Short and Shallows and feel comfy. It doesn't have the front hub covered from where I'm at (seated) which I heard is a fit no-no, but I wouldn't want to stare at the stack of spacers or seatpost on a 58cm
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