The velocity chukkers are pretty darn heavy.
I'm considering something wider for my build down the road (will be swapping wheels from my redline conquest in the meantime) and possibly tubeless.
The Velocity a23 700c is the same width as the chukker, not as deep, and nearly 200gr lighter per hoop...that's a big difference. I was actually thinking about the Blunt SL's, too, if I don't go with Stans. Speaking of stans, Stans Alpines wouldn't be too bad, either.
But perhaps you want a heavy rim to beat the crap out of and keep asking for more. In that case, I'd suggest considering the Mavic TN719s....
Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.
Yeah, I'm a big fat guy, thus why I tend to go for strength over light. (260) one moment while I Google your suggestions...
Not sure why, but I was already against the A23s. Though Blunt SL's probably top the list for looks, not really sold on the Mavics but those Alpines look good for the money. I do eventually want to go tubeless...
I more or less have my picks for parts at this point. if anyone wants to critique them, feel free.
Last edited by Agwan; 09-01-2013 at 12:26 AM.
Originally Posted by jcaino
Anybody throwing Profile MTB cranks on is focused on durability and strength and not so much on the weight! I have Profile BB, cranks, chainwheel and hubset on my Karate Monkey and they are awesome, a bit on the heavy side, but awesome! Looks like an interesting build for sure, keep us posted!
My motorcycle runs on infant blood
Will do! I'll post pics when it's rolling, then again when it's got all the nice bits on it!
And yeah, weight is a concern, but bulletproof has to be a larger concern. It's a Surly, It was never going to be accused of anorexia. but if I can save the weight at a reasonable cost, I will!
After spending 2.5 years thrashing some Chukkers I'd say to look elsewhere. The pros are that I've been able to thrash these wheels for 2.5 years and upwards of 7K miles but the cons are that I was still able to flatspot the rear rim during a cross race last year and cant count how many times I've folded the sidewalls over when racing or trail riding, talking hits that didnt pinch flat the tube but still were able to bend the rim.
So they're not that cheap, very heavy, and very weak. I'm trying to put some money aside to lace up some Pacenti TL28 rims to my same hubs rather than the Chukkers. Should drop a lot of weight and have a similarly strong rim.
We'll both see how the Straggler feels but I doubt you'll like a road bike with a 50mm stem. It's just going to be way too short to get any weight on the front tire for cornering. The Straggler geo seems like it'll be really stable but you will need to focus on getting the weight forward for aggressive cornering. If you have to run that short of a stem you might be getting too large of a frame. It does seem like we're both nerding out on the details of our builds.
I'm glad to get that info on the Chukkers, velocity in general seems to have developed a bad rap lately, I wonder why that is.
As for the stem, I've fit my MTB down to the mm, a 100m stem to a completely flat (although EXTREMELY wide handlebar (760mm)) and drop bars are going to extend my reach a good 60mm. now my Soma and the Surly are very, very close in ETT (545mm for the Soma, 550 for the surly, half a centimeters distance.) I figure if I gain roughly 60mm in cockpit, then pull 50mm off the stem length I may break even.
all this can easily change when I am in the real world, sitting on it. but for the theoretical it seems... possible.
the last thing I buy for a bike build is always the stem. I think I picked that notion up here!
Running the numbers it looks like you'll need a 90mm stem to have the exact same reach to the bars. Assuming your saddle is in the same position relative to the bottom bracket and you're measuring reach to the hoods on drop bars.
I used the Pythagorean theorem to make triangles where one side is half the width of your bars (380mm) and the other side is the ETT on your Soma plus the stem length (645mm total effective reach to bars). The hypotenuse of the triangle becomes your arm reach (749mm). Keep the hypotenuse steady, change the fixed side of the triangle to half the width of your new 46cm drop bars (230mm) and the other side equal to your ETT length (550mm) plus 75mm of reach from the bars plus an unknown stem length (625mm + L).
Going back through calculations you'll need an 87.8mm stem length to have the exact same posture while riding in the hoods on your Straggler as riding the flat bars on your Soma. These are some pretty basic calculations and you may actually want a hair shorter stem since this basic calculation doesnt figure in bar sweep on the wider bars.
If you're looking to save money...
Over $100 for spokes and nipples is insane. You could order Sapim spokes and nipples from danscomp.com for around $30.
Also, the Deity parts are stupidly expensive just to add color. Frame isn't purple enough for you?
Finally, while the Profile cranks are neat, the Alfine crankset will be just as reliable at 1/3 of the cost.
For rubber, I suggest you to consider Conti SpeedRide, 700x42. Supple and smooth rolling, also fairly lightweight for such air volume, kevlar bead and puncture protection.
Mine have been munching equal measures of road and gravel this summer, about 700 miles so far. No issues whatsoever. I love these tires!
They are within your budget for the Kendas. I think the Straggler would look great with the SpeedRides.
That is actually, extremely helpful GT. I'll keep these numbers in mind at the final fit, some of it has to be done on feel alone. But that math is definitely a good base to start from.
Yeah, my math on spokes and nipples is intended to be worst case scenario. more so since this thing wont have the alfine wheelset initially. thus why my spreadsheet shows two different wheelsets. I have to build as the money comes in!
the Diety parts are downright silly, I've tried to tone down my cheese factor on this bike. but they're reasonably light and of good quality. So much of this bike will NOT be anodized (learned that from all the cheesy Origin8 the Soma first had. ugh. that got hard to look at in about 5 minutes.) but I do still like flair.
As for the crank, I am sure the Alfine is a fine crank... I just... It looks so... tame. The looks AND the strength/lifetime warranty on the Profile draw me in so much more...
The Alfine is clearly the more financially responsible choice. we will see what happens when it comes time to buy that part.
And lastly, those speedrides look VERY appealing. I may very well pick those over the Kendas!
Used the software at competitive cyclist to try to get my fit down a bit sharper... and I am all the way back to not being sure on size... 50 or 52. with the 52 I can definitely have a slammed DH stem, which is NOT that big of a priority...
I wear big size 12's and have very wide shoulders... so for the sake of overlap I usually try to err larger... but looking at this...
the 50 seems the better choice for fit... I need some real world advice on fit here, remembering that I will never Cross this, it's just a big, fat, all weather road bike for me.
What irks me is.. I was talked into the 52 BY A SHOP.
I have a set of Conti Country Plus's in 700x42 that I'm going to be using...they're not light, but they're cheap and durable.
Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.
I have what I feel is a much more practical and affordable but still GOOD build put together here. Cutting some less important corners and investing in the more important parts first. using a lot of parts I already own here. I'm hoping this gets me on the road sooner, but also means I don't have to upgrade so many parts later.
Going to drag the BB7s out another year, hoping something comes along that doesn't feel like a band aid.
This build list should get you on the road very nicely!
I'd seriously reconsider those Avid pads and look towards the EBC Gold pads.
And I'm a big fan of my Salsa Cowbell bars since they have just a little bit of flare in the drops. Most comfortable drop bars I've ever ridden.
I've got the 46cm Soma Hwy One bars on my Pacer and 46cm Cowbell bars on my cross / gravel grinder. Both are great, comfy bars, but for the Straggler I'd probably go with the Cowbell as they seem like a better 'fit' for this build.
Originally Posted by GTscoob
I'm looking at those cowbell 2's. I have to agree with you both on them.
I just wish there was a modern drop bar that was 48. my shouder to shoulder CENTER is 46.5.
Part of me is considering doing this build as a flat bar.
Only 48cm drop bar I can think of off top of head is the Nitto Noodle Bar. Pretty spendy, but like all Nitto stuff they are beautifully made.
There are mountain drops like the Ragley Luxy or Salsa Woodchipper but I do enough road riding to where I need a normal hood position but totally agree with you that I'd be all about some 48 or 50cm Cowbell bars if they were available.
Zinn has some 46, 47, and 48mm drop bars but they're long reach, deep drop bars for road riding. Having spent some time on the older Salsa Bell Laps with similar drop to the Zinn bars, I'm much happier on the Cowbells for offroad situations.
Last edited by GTscoob; 09-09-2013 at 02:15 PM.
Well, like I said before, this is my commuter. this will be a street bike. just a big fat street bike for a fat guy!
So those Zinns look appealing. I have time to decide between 46cm Cowbells, 48mm Zinns or 76cm flat bars
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