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  1. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Disc brakes! Oh, the horror!

    It's just a little sad to see one of the few rim brake frames still on the market succumb to discs... though even I often run a mullet on either my Juice or KM.
    Oh, it's been disc before - many times. It started out that way - and full gears. It's had racks. It's had road tires. I hesitate to cut the steerer tube because I don't want to lose the option of running drop bars some day down the road.

    But, it's fall/winter singlespeeding season for me and the American Classic rim brake wheels are not tubeless friendly (even though I did convert them), whereas the Flows are beefier and more sturdy lateral wise for SS out of saddle grunt climbing compared to the much more flexy American Classic wheels.

    I'm sure the bike will have future iterations involving rim brakes.

    In the meantime, I think I may need to try a 130mm 0 degree stem as this 120mm feels a bit short.

  2. #577
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    Don't cut the steerer Bruce, you WILL regret it. I had thoughts like you a couple years ago and succumbed to them and wish I hadn't.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  3. #578
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    Gotta agree. As a tall guy, my rule of thumb is never cut the steerer tube! Even though I have a nice mitre box with a chop saw blade. I've always regretted it, every time I've done it.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Don't cut the steerer Bruce, you WILL regret it. I had thoughts like you a couple years ago and succumbed to them and wish I hadn't.
    Last edited by seat_boy; 12-01-2012 at 12:47 PM.

  4. #579
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    I'm guessing my back and core were a lot better back then and I didn't really ride the KM on trails, but now that I do and want the bars higher, I can't unless I run a stem with more than a 6* rise or serious riser bar and I don't like either. It's about just near perfect all the way up as it can go, but 5-10mm more might be even nicer for casual trail riding and steep descents.

    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Gotta agree. As a tall guy, my rule of thumb is never cut the steerer tube! Even though I have a nice mitre box with a chop saw blade. I've always regretted, every time I've done it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  5. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm guessing my back and core were a lot better back then and I didn't really ride the KM on trails, but now that I do and want the bars higher, I can't unless I run a stem with more than a 6* rise or serious riser bar and I don't like either. It's about just near perfect all the way up as it can go, but 5-10mm more might be even nicer for casual trail riding and steep descents.
    This latest build is my 10th Anniversary Build of owning this thing. And I've left the steerer tube a bit long for 10 years without ever trying drop bars, but you never know - right?

    If I do try drop bars, it would be an attempt to convert it to a Cyclocross bike (did my first race of that discipline this fall), and or to build it into a monster cross or gravel grinder.

    Saturday Update: I think the best way to avoid cutting my steerer tube too short on the KM rigid fork and regretting it is to just leave it as is. You guys are right on that. I know I will tinker with this sucker many times again in the future and the chance of me finding an old KM Campstove Green fork to fit an XL bike is slim to none if I cut this one too short.

    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon with one 5mm spacer under the stem to account for what it will feel like with the lower headset cup plus 5mm+ or King 5mm crown race I will need to get the poplock adjuster knob to fit under the downtube. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.

    I'll save the rigid fork for possible other options and not cut it.

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-01-2012 at 04:24 PM.

  6. #581
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    Here's mine
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your KM builds-pictures-bike-001.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-pictures-bike-009.jpg  


  7. #582
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    Nice KM!
    Whats that saddle?

  8. #583
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    Thanks, it's an ISM Adamo Peak, strangest looking saddle but extremely comfy!

  9. #584
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    I also like the angles on my Monkey when I throw the 120mm Minute on it, but little skeptical of going to that long a fork, think doing a 100mm would be the ticket and still slack enough for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    ................Saturday Update: I think the best way to avoid cutting my steerer tube too short on the KM rigid fork and regretting it is to just leave it as is. You guys are right on that......................

    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon with one 5mm spacer under the stem to account for what it will feel like with the lower headset cup plus 5mm+ or King 5mm crown race I will need to get the poplock adjuster knob to fit under the downtube. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.

    I'll save the rigid fork for possible other options and not cut it.

    BB
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  10. #585
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    NIce Monkey, wit ha chopped saddle
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  11. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.



    And in reverse...




    Feels pretty good.

    It certainly gives me an idea of what the newer XL frame with the 20mm longer head tube and the 100mm REBA would feel like - as I could easily run that combo on the new frame with 0 spacers, and probably 10-20mm of spacers if/when using the rigid fork. Pictured above is the 100mm REBA and I used 20mm of spacers below the stem to raise it up.

  12. #587
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    Looks great. I've been meaning to move my reba up to 100mm for a while.

  13. #588
    wannabe xc'er
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    Figured I would throw mine in here.
    It is a 16"
    Thompson seatpost and stem
    Salsa bars
    Sram levers
    Brooks Saddle
    Truvativ crank
    Basic Shimano wheels
    BB7's
    and Kenda Slant Six tires

    Gotta love the Monkey

    km

  14. #589
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    Switched out from my 1st generation Campstove Green KM to a new Stretchpants Black one today. Put a 2.4 Ralph in the rear as well, cleaned up my components and swapped out to Crank Brothers BB I had in the parts bin.




    Flipped...


    Last edited by BruceBrown; 03-12-2014 at 05:31 AM.

  15. #590
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    uhhhhhhh.......

    just picked up a complete km SS off ebay to go w/my geared km and geared ogre. does anyone know if the the surly rear hub is english or metric threaded? side by side km pics coming up in a few weeks.

  16. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by nativeson View Post
    just picked up a complete km SS off ebay to go w/my geared km and geared ogre. does anyone know if the the surly rear hub is english or metric threaded? side by side km pics coming up in a few weeks.
    Straight off the Surly site: "Our hubs have ISO standard threads: 1.375"x 24 TPI (34.92mm x 1.058mm)"

    *edit* link didn't work, you've got the info right there anyway ^

    Just about any modern hub is going to have that threading because it is the ISO standard now. You'll run into different threadings on older bikes and some foreign stuff.

  17. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Switched out from my 1st generation Campstove Green KM to a new Stretchpants Black one today. Put a 2.4 Ralph in the rear as well, cleaned up my components and swapped out to Crank Brothers BB I had in the parts bin.


    Any noticable difference you've er....noticed....between the new and old frames?

  18. #593
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    I have 1 of each, both set up similar but early one fixed and the new one ss. I find the new one much more lively, happy to leave the ground at any opportunity whereas the old brown one is more stable.
    I even queried it with Surlyand Eric replied; "There have been some slight tubing changes throughout the years on the Karate Monkey, but it’s really not something you can feel per se. We did lighten up the fork a touch, so maybe that’s what you’re feeling. Not sure entirely. I’d just go with it and claim a superior sense of geometric minutia sensitivity".
    I'd be interested if it's just me or if anyone else thinks there is a difference...........

  19. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Any noticable difference you've er....noticed....between the new and old frames?
    Rides exactly the same - at least in terms of feel and handling.

    Noted differences include:

    •Longer head tube on the newest frame (positive for me).

    •Disc brake only which rules out certain configurations I used on the older frame (I knew that going into it, so I won't label it a negative or a positive).

    •About 4mm wider in the chainstay area which allows use of a Ralph 2.4, Ardent 2.4, Nic 2.35, etc.... back there without experiencing rub (positive).

    •Cable routing is under the top tube (I'm going to call that a negative as the entire weight of the cable is on the zip ties which is not a problem for hydraulic disc brakes, but is not the best support system for cable pull mechanical disc brakes - I broke the front zip tie on test ride number one).

    •Seatpost collar is not as sturdy and strong as the older model (negative).

    •Rear disc brake mounts are in a better location to allow for rear wheel removal without having to loosen the caliper mounting bolts (positive).

    *Lugs at the TT/HT juncture on the new frame (negative in terms of looks for me, positive for those who dig lugs).

    •On the old frame, my grips would contact the TT if turning the wheel which is nothing to worry about in terms of frame scratching. On the new frame with the bars at the same exact height, the brake levers hit the TT which could case a scratch or two. No biggie, but it illustrates that the TT is lower than on the older frame - at least in size XL.

    All of that being said, I have not yet tried the rigid fork that came with the new frame. I will be interested to do that to compare as I have 9 years of riding the old frame as a rigid under my belt, and only a couple of weeks with a suspension fork.

    Net-net, I'd say the positives were worth the upgrade for me.

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-15-2012 at 05:35 AM.

  20. #595
    R.I.P. Pugsley.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post

    •Seatpost collar is not as sturdy and strong as the older model (negative).


    BB
    Can you tell me a bit more about this ?

    Tnx.

  21. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010 View Post
    Can you tell me a bit more about this ?

    Tnx.
    Sure. The old seat post collar is pretty heavy duty with a larger bolt and hence, the need for a larger hex key than the newer, shiny silver metal one that takes a more normal size bolt and hex key. I'm always afraid to crank down too hard on the smaller hex key bolts than I am on the massive ones for fear of breaking the bolt (which I have done before on several occasions on various bikes and seat post collars). The older one is massive, sturdy and is a no-fuss collar. I kind of liked that. The newer one is a nice bling bit, but require a bit more finesse and fuss IMO.

    I could always swap out my collars, but it's not that big of a negative. I just have to be careful not to be too ham-fisted. In terms of industry standard - the newer KM collar is probably more in line with a typical collar than their older one which was - as I said - heavy duty.

    BB

  22. #597
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    Tnx for the info.
    I don't know how the older ones look like or are different from the newer ones.
    And in the past i have snapped a few bolts as well, including the one on a seatcollar.

  23. #598
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    I just spent some good quality time digging through this whole thread in search of some AM-leaning KMs. I'm a little suprised there were only 1 or 2 that came close, and a ton that look more like CX bikes.
    I'm currently running a 100mm tora that I had leftover from my Paragon while I wait for the 120mm tower pro to get here.

    Has anyone else run a 120mm fork?
    I love this bike, and every time I ride it I'm more impressed. My main bike is a 7" reign so when I hop on the KM I tend to get shaken to pieces on the downhill sections. (luckily the bike is always as solid and unfazed as the day I got it). I honestly can't wait to get some more squish up front. I realize the frame was only intended for a 100mm fork, but Surlys = unbreakable tanks and I'm not worried. I'm also looking forward to a little higher BB, but not the slacker ST angle.

    I'll be able to post pictures soon (@ work now).

  24. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010 View Post
    Tnx for the info.
    I don't know how the older ones look like or are different from the newer ones.
    And in the past i have snapped a few bolts as well, including the one on a seatcollar.
    Glad to hear I'm not the only ham-fisted guy out there.

    In terms of what they look like and how they are different, that's easy.

    Here's the old one (called the Surly Constrictor Seatpost Clamp)...

    surly-constrictor-med

    And here's the new one (called the Stainless Steel Seatpost Clamp)...

    ST0010

    And of course there are many, many other brands of seat post collars that will fit and work well on the Karate Monkey frame.

    BB

  25. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    I could always swap out my collars...
    Yes is the answer. That bike needs a black collar anyway.

    FWIW, I just broke the bolt to my Surly collar the other night. Your caution is justified.

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