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  1. #1101
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    This is my almost new 2015 Karate Monkey OPS. Has almost none of the original components. Running XX 1x10, XTR M985 brakes, Flow EX(decals removed)/X9. I love it a lot and may go rigid with a carbon fork soon. What do you guys think?

  2. #1102
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    '09 KM handed over to me by my cousin's husband in colorado after he tore his knee up...

    stem, bars, saddle and wheels switched over from my solo one along with my mismatched paul love levers.

    i'm thinking of putting my recon silver on it but i'm not sure if i want to add the three pounds.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your KM builds-20151016_205956.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-20151018_171540.jpg  


  3. #1103
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    Quote Originally Posted by shekky View Post
    '09 KM handed over to me by my cousin's husband in colorado after he tore his knee up...

    stem, bars, saddle and wheels switched over from my solo one along with my mismatched paul love levers.

    i'm thinking of putting my recon silver on it but i'm not sure if i want to add the three pounds.
    Sweet! The bottom "Wilderness" photo could be in a Surly add! whoever took that has a good eye because bikes are hard to photograph well.

    I have a blue KM from the same era. Aesthetically speaking, I prefer the old style without the brace bar between the top-tube and seat-tube. I only ride my KM on pavement and right now I'm hurting for some really good street tires like Jan Heine sells in every size except 700 x 50.

  4. #1104
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    adam • michigan • karate monkey

  5. #1105
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    How long have you been running it as a commuter and with those 2.2" slicks? Just asking as I've got a few different pairs of slicks and hadn't used mine to commute in a good while, needed to, so threw the 38mms on and it was working fine. Decided to give the 28mms a go and the difference in how easy and fast it rolls compared to the 38mm is unreal and weight drop was about 350g per wheel.
    Quote Originally Posted by ADDam View Post
    current commuter mode, studs are in the forecast...
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  6. #1106
    the half breed devil
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    Quote Originally Posted by corwin1968 View Post
    Sweet! The bottom "Wilderness" photo could be in a Surly add! whoever took that has a good eye because bikes are hard to photograph well.

    I have a blue KM from the same era. Aesthetically speaking, I prefer the old style without the brace bar between the top-tube and seat-tube. I only ride my KM on pavement and right now I'm hurting for some really good street tires like Jan Heine sells in every size except 700 x 50.
    thanks! the photo is about halfway down the old springs trail in the marin headlands. i prefer the old style too and am super stoked that my cousin sent this bike to california for me!

  7. #1107
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    I too prefer the old style frame. I'm hoping I'll be getting my old brown frame back to complement my new (er) frame....

  8. #1108
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    2015 KM Ops/Fork Switch

    I bought the medium (18") OPS version a few months ago, been loving it. I decided to replace the standard FOX Float 32 with the Surly rigid KM fork for winter (I live in a northern town with salty/slimy/slushy winters - I'd rather not ruin the nice fork). I have to say, after switching to rigid and taking it to the trail a few times, I kind of love the ride. It's... pure.

    I had three little issues when replacing the fork. First, the front wheel that comes with the OPS version is an AlexRim laced to a Deore 15mm through-axle hub, but the fork has QR dropouts. I wound up solving the issue with this part which actually works very well. It is a metal cylinder that slides into the hub but has an inner diameter the same as normal QR hubs effectively "converting" the through-axle to a QR hub.

    Second, the head tube is 1-1/2" to 1-1/8" tapered, but the rigid fork is 1 1/8 straight. Easiest/best fix I came across for this mismatch is a special crown race that has a 1-1/8" inner diameter and a 1-1/2" outer diameter. This is the part I used.

    Lastly, the FOX fork comes with post-style brake mounts, whereas the rigid fork comes with IS-style mounts. This is yet another easy fix; it requires an IS to post mount adapter (make sure you get the one for your rotor's diameter). Here's mine.

    I've been loving this bike! Best bike I've ever owned, feels totally bomb-proof and solid as can be.

    Let's see your KM builds-img_1894.jpg

    Let's see your KM builds-fullsizerender.jpg

  9. #1109
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    I picked this up to see if I could fit a 29+ in the rear (it would spin, but no real clearance), but found I liked it quite a bit:



    It may actually push my higher end Ritchey P-29er out of the garage.

  10. #1110
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    FYI, a couple people have gone ahead and dimpled the KM chainstays to make a 29+ fit back there. Can't just find it "so", but if you search, it may even be in this thread, if not in the 29+/650B+ forum. I am thinking of doing it to my '07, or I will run a 650B+, not sure, will find out when I get my 650B+ wheels next year.

    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    I picked this up to see if I could fit a 29+ in the rear (it would spin, but no real clearance), but found I liked it quite a bit:



    It may actually push my higher end Ritchey P-29er out of the garage.
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  11. #1111
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    running my karate monkey with a 1x10 expanded range setup and a 34 tooth chainring...

    Let's see your KM builds-dsc03459.jpgLet's see your KM builds-dsc03461.jpg


    pretty zippy with a transmission,normally i run it as a single speed but now im giving some thought to a 2x10 since i picked up a race face crankset for cheap

  12. #1112
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    Enjoying some BCT on my Monkey yesterday


  13. #1113
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    FYI, a couple people have gone ahead and dimpled the KM chainstays to make a 29+ fit back there. Can't just find it "so", but if you search, it may even be in this thread, if not in the 29+/650B+ forum. I am thinking of doing it to my '07, or I will run a 650B+, not sure, will find out when I get my 650B+ wheels next year.
    Ouch! Wouldn't it be easier and safer - or rather a more sound way to go - to pick up a dedicated 29+ frame? The Krampus frame is only $575 and the Carver is only $600.

    Even a Racing Ralph 2.35 on a wide tubeless rim (hookless 35mm exterior/30mm interior) that I run barely fits back there (casing width measures 61mm). I have to use the Tugnut to pull the wheel back a bit in the dropouts to prevent the tire rubbing on the chainstays during out of saddle climbs. It seems like one would have to do a lot of bending and "dimpling" to get a 3.0 to fit.

    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-26-2015 at 05:40 AM.

  14. #1114
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Ouch! Wouldn't it be easier and safer - or rather a more sound way to go - to pick up a dedicated 29+ frame? The Krampus frame is only $575 and the Carver is only $600.

    Even a Racing Ralph 2.35 on a wide tubeless rim (hookless 35mm exterior/30mm interior) that I run barely fits back there (casing width measures 61mm). I have to use the Tugnut to pull the wheel back a bit in the dropouts to prevent the tire rubbing on the chainstays during out of saddle climbs. It seems like one would have to do a lot of bending and "dimpling" to get a 3.0 to fit.
    I agree.

  15. #1115
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    But it's so close!



    The seatstay clearance is fine:


    The chainstay clearance looks worse than it is here, this tire will spin OK:


    I think a slightly smaller tire (the Gravity Vidar is basically Knard sized) might work here. The Dirt Wizard's side knobs were too big. Maybe a Panaracer Fat B Nimble. It's supposed to run a bit smaller, and has much smaller side knobs.

    I would have to use a half link to bring the rear wheel forward a bit as well:



    I had a Krampus, and I like the way the KM handles better--though I expect I would lose some of the snappiness that I like with the longer chainstay setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Ouch! Wouldn't it be easier and safer - or rather a more sound way to go - to pick up a dedicated 29+ frame? The Krampus frame is only $575 and the Carver is only $600.

    Even a Racing Ralph 2.35 on a wide tubeless rim (hookless 35mm exterior/30mm interior) that I run barely fits back there (casing width measures 61mm). I have to use the Tugnut to pull the wheel back a bit in the dropouts to prevent the tire rubbing on the chainstays during out of saddle climbs. It seems like one would have to do a lot of bending and "dimpling" to get a 3.0 to fit.

  16. #1116
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    Exactly SB, my KM is going on 8 years old, I think I've more than got my monies worth out of it, so why not give it a careful go, only thing it really gets used for now is commuter duty, but if it could fit a PLUS tyre, it's chance of being used would increase exponentially Also right now I don't have any spare $$, so not even possibility, either that or just try 650B+ and even then a big one of them will prob need some extra room.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Ouch! Wouldn't it be easier and safer - or rather a more sound way to go - to pick up a dedicated 29+ frame? The Krampus frame is only $575 and the Carver is only $600.
    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    But it's so close! The seatstay clearance is fine:

    The chainstay clearance looks worse than it is here, this tire will spin OK:
    I think a slightly smaller tire (the Gravity Vidar is basically Knard sized) might work here. The Dirt Wizard's side knobs were too big. Maybe a Panaracer Fat B Nimble. It's supposed to run a bit smaller, and has much smaller side knobs.
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  17. #1117
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    I would have to use a half link to bring the rear wheel forward a bit as well:



    I had a Krampus, and I like the way the KM handles better--though I expect I would lose some of the snappiness that I like with the longer chainstay setup.
    True that in terms of snappiness with the KM's rear wheel all the way forward, but it makes sense as a Krampus is a bikepacking rig. The Trek Stache would be the lively way to go in the 29+ with the lowest cost option being the Stache 5 due to the rigid fork it comes with stock.

    In terms of your KM, I would worry about snapping off the end of your horizontal dropouts with the way you have the wheel pulled all the way back in the photo above.

    I still think by the time you go through enough 29+ tires to try and get something to fit back there without rub and severe compromise, the expense of trying won't be worth it compared to buying a bike designed from the get go to take the 29+ wheels/tires.

    There are a couple of great quotes with regard to + and FAT I found here at MTBR.com. The first comes from NurseBen at MTBR.com when he says this about the + FAT tired bikes...

    Know what you want and know what you're getting before going fatter. Fatter is less precise, fatter is heavier, fatter is slower BUT fatter is more accommodating where lines are less precise, provide more traction on loose and irregular surfaces, and they provide more suspension.

    The second comes from Mike Curiak in response to NurseBen's statement...

    I think a lot of confusion stems from the fact that + and fat stuff is being marketed as a magic bullet, and that is being propagated by new(er) riders that don't have a wide base of experience to know what they're getting/how it compares. Which is my way of saying that your advice above is sound and I wish more people would heed it before dropping $$$$ that they might not have to spend, or that could be put to better use.

    Super Sage Words of Wisdom in those quotes!!!

    Not sure the current KM is the platform of choice for the 29+, but you can run some really nice 29"er 2.35 and 2.4 rubber and keep the snappiness and fun factor with plenty of cushion for what it was designed to offer.

  18. #1118
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    i know that since i put a 29+ tire up front on the monkey that no other tire has lasted more than one ride before i switched back...it helped to add a touch of stability to the ride since i always felt the km was just to the good side of being twitchy...it still has that same superbly balanced feel,same lively ride and it takes quite a bit of the sting out of rougher sections of trail...
    and the ardent 2.4 on a blunt35 i have to pull the wheel back to keep the tire from rubbing under hard acceleration or cornering,with both tires set up tubeless theres almost no height difference,or what bias there is towards the front slacks out the handling just that little bit,plus it eliminates most of the pedal strikes i was having on a smaller front tire...

  19. #1119
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    i know that since i put a 29+ tire up front on the monkey that no other tire has lasted more than one ride before i switched back...it helped to add a touch of stability to the ride since i always felt the km was just to the good side of being twitchy...it still has that same superbly balanced feel,same lively ride and it takes quite a bit of the sting out of rougher sections of trail...
    and the ardent 2.4 on a blunt35 i have to pull the wheel back to keep the tire from rubbing under hard acceleration or cornering,with both tires set up tubeless theres almost no height difference,or what bias there is towards the front slacks out the handling just that little bit,plus it eliminates most of the pedal strikes i was having on a smaller front tire...
    100mm suspension fork and a nice set of wide bars does the same thing.

  20. #1120
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    So, add a decent amount of weight instead of just a nice balloon tyre? I like my Monkey rigid, just want a bit more cush for my not so great back and to help me not get as beat up when I ride with all my buddies on their squishy bikes and keep up

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    100mm suspension fork and a nice set of wide bars does the same thing.
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  21. #1121
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    true,but im pretty sure a tire is lighter than a fork...plus,i normally have it set up as a single speed,and not that im any sort of single speed purist,but full rigid just seems to go better with riding a single speed...keeps you honest...

  22. #1122
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    true,but im pretty sure a tire is lighter than a fork...plus,i normally have it set up as a single speed,and not that im any sort of single speed purist,but full rigid just seems to go better with riding a single speed...keeps you honest...
    I put plenty of time on my KM rigid back in the day, so I know what I am or am not missing.





    Nothing against rigid, but I'll take suspension for sheer speed any day - both going up and going down. The balloon tire can't match a 100mm fork.

    I agree with you on the SS part. I never thought I would like it as much as I do. Took it to Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, California, and South Dakota this summer and it handled everything I threw at it!

    My XL KM with fork, 2.35 tires, beefy wide rims, 350 hubs, big long 120mm Thomson paper weight stem, and the heaviest SPD Shimano pedals I own (is right at 25 and change). Shaving off 500 grams by going back to rigid is not going to make me go faster. Especially if I throw some of that weight back onto a rolling part of the bike (tire/wheel). What is the total weight of a KM fork, 29+ tire, big rim/wheel combo in comparison to a wide rimmed carbon wheel running a Ralph 2.35 tubeless?

    My KM Fork Weight: 2.6 lb (1.2kg) uncut
    My REBA Race with Poplock and starnut Weight: 3.99 lb (1.81kg)

    Racing Ralph 2.35: 660g
    Maxxis Chronicle 3.0: 1055g
    Surly Knard: 980g

    I did ride a stock rigid Krampus a week ago for a test ride and noted the extra oomph required to keep it moving up the hills, flats and in general. The big tires do provide cushion, but nothing like a suspension fork when flying through the singletrack. I would love to sample a Stache, but chances of running into one in size XL is going to be a rare sighting in these parts.
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-30-2015 at 02:31 AM.

  23. #1123
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So, add a decent amount of weight instead of just a nice balloon tyre? I like my Monkey rigid, just want a bit more cush for my not so great back and to help me not get as beat up when I ride with all my buddies on their squishy bikes and keep up
    Throw on a balloon and a Thudbuster - you'll be fine.

  24. #1124
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    So, add a decent amount of weight instead of just a nice balloon tyre? I like my Monkey rigid, just want a bit more cush for my not so great back and to help me not get as beat up when I ride with all my buddies on their squishy bikes and keep up
    I'd bet your more likely to feel 500g added to your wheels then your fork.

    B+ seesm a like a good compromise here. You get the big tires and can keep the frame with the ride qualities you like. You might also try a ti or carbon post. I added a Eriksen Sweetspot to my hardtail and it made a huge difference.

  25. #1125
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    i get what you're saying,but you know,bike setup is highly individual,im happy with it...the bike is plenty fast,i won my first ever race on it riding a rigid steel single speed against all sorts of carbon whatnot full squishy bikes...it may have only been a local cat3 race,but i beat everyone at 50,even all the youngsters...

    we can certainly agree the karate monkey is a fine machine...

  26. #1126
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    i get what you're saying,but you know,bike setup is highly individual,im happy with it...the bike is plenty fast,i won my first ever race on it riding a rigid steel single speed against all sorts of carbon whatnot full squishy bikes...it may have only been a local cat3 race,but i beat everyone at 50,even all the youngsters...

    we can certainly agree the karate monkey is a fine machine...
    Heck yes! It's a super fun bike that has garnered much more of my attention this year than in all the years I have owned one. I bought the original back in 2003 as my first 29"er and upgraded to the black frame a few years ago making this my 13th season of riding it as one of my bikes.

    My main premise for posting above was seat_boy's attempt at stuffing a 29+ in the rear of the bike. The KM fork has always had room for up to 3" tires, but the rear end is a different story.

  27. #1127
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    i tried a dirt wizard on the back,seemed like a no go...i was just looking at a 29+ front and 27.5+ rear km on the surly site,looked pretty sweet...

    yup,im having fun with the monkey set up as a 1x10,i have my krampus set up with my single speed rear end and a dirt wizard...but no doubt it will get switched back at some point...i dont like not having a singlespeed around,dont want to get lazy...but also having too much fun on the new ice cream truck which reminds me a lot of the karate monkey in that theres always that little voice saying.."go faster"....

  28. #1128
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    Weight gains ain't so much, I normally run 2.4" tyres in the 850g range anyhow, plus I don't seem to suffer weight as bad as other people, never felt the added weight, harder acceleration of 29ers like lots complain about, but I do notice less vibration and chatter getting through to my arms, legs and back.
    Was thinking 650B+ rear/29+ front to help slacken the Monkey out a tad, but that wheelset won't come until sometime well into next year. Did build myself a Dually45 wheelset for it, but found out that a big high volume tyre like the 2.35" Ikon or 2.4" gain too much sidewall support from that wide a rim, so lookin to go down to a narrower rim as an interim to see if I can get a bit more suspension out of those tyres.
    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    I'd bet your more likely to feel 500g added to your wheels then your fork.

    B+ seesm a like a good compromise here. You get the big tires and can keep the frame with the ride qualities you like. You might also try a ti or carbon post. I added a Eriksen Sweetspot to my hardtail and it made a huge difference.
    You know, I actually recently started thinking about a Thuddy, wondering how it really would be and if the saddle to pedal height moving would annoy me or not.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Throw on a balloon and a Thudbuster - you'll be fine.
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  29. #1129
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    You know, I actually recently started thinking about a Thuddy, wondering how it really would be and if the saddle to pedal height moving would annoy me or not.
    I use the short travel Thud on my Dos Niner race bike - as odd as that sounds to have the Thud and the Relish softail shock both. It is not annoying - movement wise - compared to the longer travel Thud and it's just enough to take the edge off to the point the Thud saves my back on that bike - which I will take. The steel frame of the KM and lay back Thomson post provide more cushion than I thought, but obviously not as much as the Thud. I am out of the saddle a lot more on the KM and it isn't my race sled.

  30. #1130
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Weight gains ain't so much, I normally run 2.4" tyres in the 850g range anyhow, plus I don't seem to suffer weight as bad as other people, never felt the added weight, harder acceleration of 29ers like lots complain about, but I do notice less vibration and chatter getting through to my arms, legs and back.
    Was thinking 650B+ rear/29+ front to help slacken the Monkey out a tad, but that wheelset won't come until sometime well into next year. Did build myself a Dually45 wheelset for it, but found out that a big high volume tyre like the 2.35" Ikon or 2.4" gain too much sidewall support from that wide a rim, so lookin to go down to a narrower rim as an interim to see if I can get a bit more suspension out of those tyres.


    You know, I actually recently started thinking about a Thuddy, wondering how it really would be and if the saddle to pedal height moving would annoy me or not.
    I'm confused. You said you didn't want a suspension fork because it would add weight, but want to add weight to your wheels/tires?

    Big tires are fine, I have some, but actual suspension does better job of...being suspension.

  31. #1131
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    Yeah, a guy bought one a few years ago for his HT and I gave it a try and from what I remember it didn't feel too bad, really thinking about it after a ride a few weeks back where I really analyzed how the rigid felt and where I felt most of the shock on it, realised the biggest pain was constantly having to be off the saddle once I was on our coral cliffs that I like to ride. Makes perfect sense top make yourself comfortable, if you're not you'll likely not be as fast, although will say having a sus post on the Dos is a bit weird
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    I use the short travel Thud on my Dos Niner race bike - as odd as that sounds to have the Thud and the Relish softail shock both. It is not annoying - movement wise - compared to the longer travel Thud and it's just enough to take the edge off to the point the Thud saves my back on that bike - which I will take. The steel frame of the KM and lay back Thomson post provide more cushion than I thought, but obviously not as much as the Thud. I am out of the saddle a lot more on the KM and it isn't my race sled.
    Didn't say I didn't want to add weight, said a sus fork would add more than the PLUS tyre setup. FYI I like the Monkey rigid, it reacts consistently, no brake dive I honestly either like a full rigid or FS, HT I run the fork way too hard to just take the edge off and make it not have the front cashing cheques the back can't.

    Quote Originally Posted by big_papa_nuts View Post
    I'm confused. You said you didn't want a suspension fork because it would add weight, but want to add weight to your wheels/tires?

    Big tires are fine, I have some, but actual suspension does better job of...being suspension.
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  32. #1132
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Makes perfect sense top make yourself comfortable, if you're not you'll likely not be as fast, although will say having a sus post on the Dos is a bit weird
    Frame is out of warranty on the Dos Niner, so I took on the risk the past two seasons of using it on the frame. The Relish shock of the softail gives a maximum of 1" of travel, which isn't much. Adding the ST Thud gives me another .3" (or 33mm). The two combined gives me - in theory - 58mm of travel compared to my JET 9 that provides 80mm. With the 2.3-2.35 rear tires I run and the psi, that's enough to keep my back sane and fresh for a 90 minute to 2 hour race. But I don't use it on every course.



    I've got plenty of races under my belt on the two Dos Niner frames I've owned with just the Relish since 2006. It's only the last 2 seasons I added the ST. Odd looking duck, but feels "oh so good". The ST Thud doesn't rock you back and forth and all around like the LT 3" travel version does. I have tried the LT Thud on both my older KM and my Dos Niner, but in my case - I simply don't have enough exposed seat post on the Dos and the older KM had less exposed seat post than my updated 2012 frame has. So I couldn't use it and traded it in for the ST version.

    A picture with the ultra plush 3" travel LT Thudbuster on my Dos is HERE. You will see that it was jammed all the way in the frame, but left my seat a tad high for where I prefer. Boy was it comfy, but the Dos frame just doesn't have the room for it.

  33. #1133
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    Fat B Nimble, Fat Be Quick

    The DW was a no go on my Monkey, but the Panaracer Fat B Nimble fits well enough when I slid the rear wheel back one chain link (now at ~450mm chainstay length):





    A little bit of rub when I'm pedaling my hardest, but it works well enough for me. I originally had it set 6mm forward with a half link. That worked riding around the street, but as soon as I got off road, it rubbed a lot more.

    With the fat, fast tire, steel frame, and quick geometry... I cleaned up my fatbike to put it for sale today. No need.


  34. #1134
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    Let's see your KM builds-img_0313.jpg

    From the middle of Montana

  35. #1135
    MTB B'dos
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    Decided the Monkey is old enough and I really can't see me having the $$ to afford a new 29+ frame, plus already have the wheels built and tyres, so going to try widening the stays on it sometime this year.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Frame is out of warranty on the Dos Niner, so I took on the risk the past two seasons of using it on the frame. The Relish shock of the softail gives a maximum of 1" of travel, which isn't much. Adding the ST Thud gives me another .3" (or 33mm). The two combined gives me - in theory - 58mm of travel compared to my JET 9 that provides 80mm. With the 2.3-2.35 rear tires I run and the psi, that's enough to keep my back sane and fresh for a 90 minute to 2 hour race. But I don't use it on every course.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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    My Phantom pics

  36. #1136
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    The DW was a no go on my Monkey, but the Panaracer Fat B Nimble fits well enough when I slid the rear wheel back one chain link (now at ~450mm chainstay length):





    A little bit of rub when I'm pedaling my hardest, but it works well enough for me. I originally had it set 6mm forward with a half link. That worked riding around the street, but as soon as I got off road, it rubbed a lot more.

    With the fat, fast tire, steel frame, and quick geometry... I cleaned up my fatbike to put it for sale today. No need.

    What rims? 29er Blunt 35s? Or wider?

  37. #1137
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    Yep, 29er Blunt 35 rims.

    Quote Originally Posted by MMcG View Post
    What rims? 29er Blunt 35s? Or wider?

  38. #1138
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    picked up a panaracer fatbnimble for the karate monkey today...

    mounted on a blunt35 with a tube for now,and a pair of monkey nuts...

    a little rub at the stays inflated to 15 psi when i really heave at the pedals,no problems with chain rub even with the wolftooth 42 tooth cog...

    Let's see your KM builds-dsc03529.jpgLet's see your KM builds-dsc03533.jpgLet's see your KM builds-dsc03530.jpgLet's see your KM builds-dsc03531.jpg

  39. #1139
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    Love it! Great to someone still using bar ends, they look just right to my mid-90s tastes.

    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    picked up a panaracer fatbnimble for the karate monkey today...

    mounted on a blunt35 with a tube for now,and a pair of monkey nuts...

    a little rub at the stays inflated to 15 psi when i really heave at the pedals,no problems with chain rub even with the wolftooth 42 tooth cog...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by seat_boy; 01-09-2016 at 03:45 AM.

  40. #1140
    the half breed devil
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    Quote Originally Posted by WMBigs View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    From the middle of Montana
    this looks unimaginably cold and windy...

  41. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Love it! Great to someone still using bar ends, they look just right to my mid-90s tastes.
    normally this bike is set up singlespeed and around here that means plenty of out of the saddle climbing so they come in mighty handy...but i have noticed its mainly singlespeed riders and older riders who still use bar ends...

  42. #1142
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    the fatbnimble worked pretty well,only a bit of rubbing in hard cornering and out of the saddle efforts...a bit squirmy,might not survive the rocks for long,but great traction,fast tire...

    Let's see your KM builds-dscf1055.jpg

  43. #1143
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    Finished this build on an XL frame. I tried to use the best of the best parts and it's actually for sale because I need a full suspension bike for the spring. Let's see your KM builds-image.jpeg
    Phil wood hubs laced to mavic hubs
    Kelly rigid fork
    Chris King headset
    Shimano Saint cranks with vp flats
    Ritchey world champ stem and Easton monkey lite carbon XC bars
    Easton havok Carbon seatpost and a wtb saddle
    Avid single digits brakes

    If someone buys it they'll also get a Thompson elite seatpost and a set of lower rise crank brothers cobalt bars and a set of XT clip less pedals!

  44. #1144
    Lord Thunderbottom
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    picked up a panaracer fatbnimble for the karate monkey today...

    mounted on a blunt35 with a tube for now,and a pair of monkey nuts...

    a little rub at the stays inflated to 15 psi when i really heave at the pedals,no problems with chain rub even with the wolftooth 42 tooth cog...
    29x3 version?
    Today I will do what others won't, so tomorrow I can do what others can't

  45. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanofChaos View Post
    29x3 version?
    yes....

    i have since converted the karate monkey back to single speed,there was only one spot in the drops that the derailleur would work and it just wasnt far enough back to keep the tire from rubbing under hard pedaling or cornering....indeed i managed to snap a qr in a vain attempt to keep the tire from rubbing...but as a single speed running a 32/19 i was able to cut the chain just right to get the tire better positioned between the chainstays so no more rubbing...and im loving the extra cush the fat monkey brings...

  46. #1146
    Always Learning
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    yes....

    i have since converted the karate monkey back to single speed,there was only one spot in the drops that the derailleur would work and it just wasnt far enough back to keep the tire from rubbing under hard pedaling or cornering....indeed i managed to snap a qr in a vain attempt to keep the tire from rubbing...but as a single speed running a 32/19 i was able to cut the chain just right to get the tire better positioned between the chainstays so no more rubbing...and im loving the extra cush the fat monkey brings...
    Thanks going to require new pictures for us to enjoy!

    On a side note: I can vouch for the carbon 35mm external width rim from Light Bicycle, that I get no rub in the rear with my 2.35/2.4 tires where I used to on my I9/Flow rims.

  47. #1147
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    ^ I think that would mean your new wheel build isn't as laterally stiff as your old wheel build?

  48. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Thanks going to require new pictures for us to enjoy!

    On a side note: I can vouch for the carbon 35mm external width rim from Light Bicycle, that I get no rub in the rear with my 2.35/2.4 tires where I used to on my I9/Flow rims.
    i will have to charge the camera batteries...im thinking of taking the monkey out to tuesday night ride...the new ICT has been getting all the miles lately

  49. #1149
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    I've been looking at the v rubber 29x2.8 slick for an upcoming bike tour on the KM. Would that fit on the front fork? P-35 rim.

  50. #1150
    Racing Snake
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    Rear brake fitting question

    Can I fit an early Hope Mono Mini brake? If so what size rotor and what adaptor do I need? I'm normally a canti brake rider, so no nothing.......
    Ta

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