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  1. #551
    my dog's Frisbee launcher
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    dim, My Reba is set at 80mm....have you road a 29er? you may find you won't need the thudbuster, the back wheel rolls over stuff a 26" pings off of...make for a smother ride....
    Darwin was an Optimist

  2. #552
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    Foot, i currently have a hardtail 29er that is aluminum with a susser fork. I live in Georgia and ride a lot of roots and rocks. The stiff ride is getting rougher as I get older. I wanted to ride steel because of its compliant qualities. I guess I could ride it rigid without the thud and see how it feels. It may be good enough without it.
    I love 'Murica!

  3. #553
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    Quadingle Monkey

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/saddleupbike/8182198704/" title="Surly Karate Monkey 4-Speed by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8182198704_80a3823b13_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Surly Karate Monkey 4-Speed"></a>

  4. #554
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    Super cool! What are the four gear combinations?

    Is it safe to assume that you'll put a 26" fat front on there at some point?

  5. #555
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    The chainrings were 32/36, 22/18 and 20/16. Sold the KM shortly after putting 650b wheels on the Troll, the fork may end up on it. May go pudgy, not sure about fat.

  6. #556
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    Back in Jun '07,I ordered a KM frameset, but then decided to go custom and sent it back. The custom frame wasn't all I'd hoped for, and once you sell a custom frame, all bets are off. Now, 37 bikes later, I'm back at a Karate Monkey:



    I like it quite a bit. The handling is fun, the shorter chainstays and shorter front center (compared to my Soma Juice) give it better handling through the corners. However, I do miss the more supple ride and flexibility of the Juice frame. I was hoping this Monkey frame would bring me full circle so I could end the buying spree, but not... quite... yet....

  7. #557
    R.I.P. Pugsley.
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    Work in progress.

    It's not completely finished, but i just couldn't resist taking it out for a short ride.

    2012 KM
    CK headset.
    Hope Pro2 evo hubs, sapim spokes and P35 rims with big Apple's.
    Hope Ti-6 rear and Hope M-4 front(not yet installed) brakes. (will be replaced for black/green Hope M-4 tech's)
    E*13 triple crank & BB.
    DMR V-8 acid green pedals.
    Sram cash-green cassette.
    XTR derr and shifter.
    KMC chain.
    Thomson seatpost.
    Lepper saddle.
    Da-Bomb stem.
    Spank B*tchstick bars.

    I still have to get :
    XTR front derr.
    Thomson stem.
    Green grips.
    Green Brooks saddle.
    And a squishy fork.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your KM builds-dscn1456.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-dscn1459.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-dscn1461.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-dscn1462.jpg  


  8. #558
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    2013 KM.

    King hubs & Stan's added the Enve bars as well. Next will be a carbon seat post, and better brakes.

    The new wheel set completely changed the bike. Night & day.

    Let's see your KM builds-imageuploadedbytapatalk1353505963.648249.jpg

  9. #559
    Just Ride!
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    Love the Blue! Someone just scored a new in the box large frameset last week on ebay for $300 plus shipping. I should have clicked "Buy it Now" and asked for forgiveness later.

  10. #560
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    Just a quick question for the people that are running a 3x9 drivetrain.
    Somewhere next week i'm going to order some parts and i was wondering what derraileur i should pick.
    I'm going for a XTR, but what type ?
    Top pull is all i know for sure.
    But should i get a high or a low clamp version ?

    Thank's in advance.

  11. #561
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    haloblue -- What are you planning to switch your brakes to? If you wouldn't mind a suggestion, you might consider instead just upgrading cable and levers. Avid Ultimate levers and XTR cables made my BB7s feel better than any brake I've ever touched. Just a thought...

    FWIW, I have since replaced the Ultimate levers, as I needed some cash and had a set of SD7 levers around. Honestly they feel nearly as good as the Ultimates with quality cable, at about 1/10th of the price. Much much better than the FR5s though.

  12. #562
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    Hi KarateBoys, i need to know exactly dimensịn seat tube KM16/2012-2013, 406, 440mm?? Thank you very much.
    Last edited by BlueViajero; 11-23-2012 at 03:09 AM.

  13. #563
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    The 16" KM is 406mm. The Surly site shows this clearly on the geometry picture:

    Karate Monkey | Bikes | Surly Bikes

    Note that this measures to the top of the seat tube brace--there's a bit of extra seat tube material poking above this.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueViajero View Post
    Hi KarateBoys, i need to know exactly dimensịn seat tube KM16/2012-2013, 406, 440mm?? Thank you very much.

  14. #564
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    I just skimmed the 550+ posts on this thread and looked closely at all of the pictures. I came to the obvious conclusion: Surly, your head tube length is way too short on all versions, and all sizes of the Karate Monkey.


    Either that, or we have all become addicted to the Mary Poppins riding position.

    Outside of maybe one or two Monkey's I saw in this thread - the spacers and stems with rise are loaded up to the gills to get the bars up high enough when building a Monkey.

    I was fiddling and puttering with mine today taking it from a V-Brake SS rigid bike to a disc brake SS rigid bike. Of course, mine is old school vintage 2002-3 and the new versions have a taller head tube length in size XL (like 20mm longer). to Surly for doing that.

    I could see that with a 100mm fork and the new head tube length on the size XL, I could get away with 0 spacers. But running the rigid fork and flat bars would still require a bit of something to get it up. I've got some new Origin 8 bars and have a 120mm 0 degree Thomson X4 coming. I'm going to try and slam the stem to see how it handles, even though my position will be a bit more aggressive on the bike than my other bikes. I've got room on the steerer tube for 25 to 28mm of spacers if need be. And I've got a REBA sitting around I could adjust to 100mm to give the front end a boost.

    Okay - rant is over....and the need for 20 - 20+ mm of spacers or other plumbing endeavors will continue until Surly does more updates.
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 11-30-2012 at 02:46 AM.

  15. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    ...would still require quite a bit of something to get it up...
    I've never had this issue with my bikes I do see what you're saying, though. You'd think for touring bikes like their Troll and Ogre, they'd give them a bit longer headtubes. Other than the dropouts and cable guides, the Troll/1x1 and KM/Ogre are the same (amiright?).

  16. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I've never had this issue with my bikes I do see what you're saying, though. You'd think for touring bikes like their Troll and Ogre, they'd give them a bit longer headtubes. Other than the dropouts and cable guides, the Troll/1x1 and KM/Ogre are the same (amiright?).
    That I don't know.

    I just know my HT length is 105mm on the size XL Monkey and the new ones are 125mm. Compared to a size XL Niner where the HT length is 145mm, the Surly bikes seem so "beehind" the times with the HT length.

    Salsa is 140mm for their XL's
    Niner is 145mm for their XL's

    Not only the XL size, but other sizes as well. Not that there is anything wrong with spacers and high rise stems (and riser bars), but I do like the look of not having to do any of that on my other bikes...

    I could, with a 100mm suspension fork, get away with a 10mm spacer and the Thomson 0 degree X4 stem. However, with the rigid fork and short HT on the Monkey I imagine I will be jacking up the amount of spacers to the tune of 20-25mm. Which pretty much mirrors what I am seeing in all of the pictures in this mega-thread.

    My previous build of the Monkey using 130mm 17 degree Thomson stem and 25mm of stems which still has the bars a bit below the saddle. That's some serious plumbing....

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/5350685645/" title="Ardents on KM by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5129/5350685645_14d07cd1c4.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Ardents on KM"></a>

    My newest build (disc brake) will feature different bars and stem with a bit more aggressive position on the bike. Yet will require quite a few spacers to get me where I need to be.

  17. #567
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    You know, if you average it out, the head tube on the KM is therefore growing about 2mm/year. That means the head tube will eventually reach an appropriate length... in about 15 more years.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    I just skimmed the 550+ posts on this thread and looked closely at all of the pictures. I came to the obvious conclusion: Surly, your head tube length is way too short on all versions, and all sizes of the Karate Monkey.

    Outside of maybe one or two Monkey's I saw in this thread - the spacers and stems with rise are loaded up to the gills to get the bars up high enough when building a Monkey.

    I was fiddling and puttering with mine today taking it from a V-Brake SS rigid bike to a disc brake SS rigid bike. Of course, mine is old school vintage 2002-3 and the new versions have a taller head tube length in size XL (like 20mm longer).

    I could see that with a 100mm fork and the new head tube length on the size XL, I could get away with 0 spacers. But running the rigid fork and flat bars would still require quite a bit of something to get it up. I've got some new Origin 8 bars and have a 120mm 0 degree Thomson X4 coming.

    Okay - rant is over....and the need for 20 - 20+ mm of spacers will continue until Surly does updates.

  18. #568
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    The 16" KM is 406mm. The Surly site shows this clearly on the geometry picture:Karate Monkey | Bikes | Surly Bikes Note that this measures to the top of the seat tube brace--there's a bit of extra seat tube material poking above this.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I need to know the dimensịn of extra seat tube material, 3-4cms??
    Necesito conocer la medida extra de esa parte del tubo para saber la talla final que parece ser una 43 ̣ 44, mi altura es de 1.73m./5.67ft, me gusta la 16 pero me da miedo a que se me quede corta de tubo sillin.
    Me cuesta mucho dirigirme a Vds en ingles, le pido disculpas.
    Un saludo, best regards.

  19. #569
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    anyone know if a 3 speed nexus bell crank will clear the dropout? I've searched and searched but have not been able to find this out. I've ordered the hub already and want to build a 29er but need to know before I buy the frameset.

    I also noticed a ton of these bikes with loads of headset spacers under the stem and a flat bar. Why not lower the stem down and run a riser bar? just curious
    Last edited by JeepDave; 11-25-2012 at 10:51 PM.

  20. #570
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    Thanks for the suggestions!

    Have not put much thought into it yet, but but ill take a look.

    Thanks again.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

  21. #571
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    My new KM.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your KM builds-image.jpg  


  22. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Rated View Post
    My new KM.
    Gotta say, you've turned the Surly KM world upside down with that build.

  23. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Rated View Post
    My new KM.
    I need to flip my macbook up-side-down in order for me to appreciate the beauty of your bike
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  24. #574
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    10th Anniversary Build: From V-Brakes to a Disc Brake KM...

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    My previous build of the Monkey using 130mm 17 degree Thomson stem and 25mm of stems which still has the bars a bit below the saddle. That's some serious plumbing....

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/5350685645/" title="Ardents on KM by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5129/5350685645_14d07cd1c4.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Ardents on KM"></a>

    My newest build (disc brake) will feature different bars and stem with a bit more aggressive position on the bike. Yet will require quite a few spacers to get me where I need to be.
    Okay, enough moaning and groaning about the Head Tube Length from me. My Monkey turns 10 years old in a few months, so it was time to celebrate.

    I slammed my new stem (Thomson 120mm 0 degree) all the way down to the headset and rode it on last night's dog walk and this morning. I moved a 5mm spacer under the stem after the dog walk to account for a possible purchase of either the King taller crown race plate or a Plus 5mm bottom headset cup to see what that would be like. I'll ride it around like that today on my commute to and from work to see if I could live with that. I didn't mind the lower, slammed all the way to the headset set up with this stem as it's a nice aggressive position that I like on XC race bikes. But the 5mm experiment may answer all questions before I cut any steerer tube.

    Here's the latest Karate Monkey XL version for me (and I've had this thing built in all shapes and sizes since buying it in the summer of 2003 - believe me).

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8232853112/" title="KMDisc by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8058/8232853112_c054f27804_c.jpg" width="800" height="544" alt="KMDisc"></a>

    And the udder side....

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8232853270/" title="KM5mmSpacer by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8232853270_4da2ac8fef_c.jpg" width="800" height="501" alt="KM5mmSpacer"></a>
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-01-2012 at 10:35 AM.

  25. #575
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    Disc brakes! Oh, the horror!

    It's just a little sad to see one of the few rim brake frames still on the market succumb to discs... though even I often run a mullet on either my Juice or KM.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8232853270/" title="KM5mmSpacer by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8232853270_4da2ac8fef_c.jpg" width="800" height="501" alt="KM5mmSpacer"></a>

  26. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Disc brakes! Oh, the horror!

    It's just a little sad to see one of the few rim brake frames still on the market succumb to discs... though even I often run a mullet on either my Juice or KM.
    Oh, it's been disc before - many times. It started out that way - and full gears. It's had racks. It's had road tires. I hesitate to cut the steerer tube because I don't want to lose the option of running drop bars some day down the road.

    But, it's fall/winter singlespeeding season for me and the American Classic rim brake wheels are not tubeless friendly (even though I did convert them), whereas the Flows are beefier and more sturdy lateral wise for SS out of saddle grunt climbing compared to the much more flexy American Classic wheels.

    I'm sure the bike will have future iterations involving rim brakes.

    In the meantime, I think I may need to try a 130mm 0 degree stem as this 120mm feels a bit short.

  27. #577
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    Don't cut the steerer Bruce, you WILL regret it. I had thoughts like you a couple years ago and succumbed to them and wish I hadn't.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  28. #578
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    Gotta agree. As a tall guy, my rule of thumb is never cut the steerer tube! Even though I have a nice mitre box with a chop saw blade. I've always regretted it, every time I've done it.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Don't cut the steerer Bruce, you WILL regret it. I had thoughts like you a couple years ago and succumbed to them and wish I hadn't.
    Last edited by seat_boy; 12-01-2012 at 12:47 PM.

  29. #579
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    I'm guessing my back and core were a lot better back then and I didn't really ride the KM on trails, but now that I do and want the bars higher, I can't unless I run a stem with more than a 6* rise or serious riser bar and I don't like either. It's about just near perfect all the way up as it can go, but 5-10mm more might be even nicer for casual trail riding and steep descents.

    Quote Originally Posted by seat_boy View Post
    Gotta agree. As a tall guy, my rule of thumb is never cut the steerer tube! Even though I have a nice mitre box with a chop saw blade. I've always regretted, every time I've done it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  30. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm guessing my back and core were a lot better back then and I didn't really ride the KM on trails, but now that I do and want the bars higher, I can't unless I run a stem with more than a 6* rise or serious riser bar and I don't like either. It's about just near perfect all the way up as it can go, but 5-10mm more might be even nicer for casual trail riding and steep descents.
    This latest build is my 10th Anniversary Build of owning this thing. And I've left the steerer tube a bit long for 10 years without ever trying drop bars, but you never know - right?

    If I do try drop bars, it would be an attempt to convert it to a Cyclocross bike (did my first race of that discipline this fall), and or to build it into a monster cross or gravel grinder.

    Saturday Update: I think the best way to avoid cutting my steerer tube too short on the KM rigid fork and regretting it is to just leave it as is. You guys are right on that. I know I will tinker with this sucker many times again in the future and the chance of me finding an old KM Campstove Green fork to fit an XL bike is slim to none if I cut this one too short.

    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon with one 5mm spacer under the stem to account for what it will feel like with the lower headset cup plus 5mm+ or King 5mm crown race I will need to get the poplock adjuster knob to fit under the downtube. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.

    I'll save the rigid fork for possible other options and not cut it.

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-01-2012 at 04:24 PM.

  31. #581
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    Here's mine
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's see your KM builds-pictures-bike-001.jpg  

    Let's see your KM builds-pictures-bike-009.jpg  


  32. #582
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    Nice KM!
    Whats that saddle?

  33. #583
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    Thanks, it's an ISM Adamo Peak, strangest looking saddle but extremely comfy!

  34. #584
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    I also like the angles on my Monkey when I throw the 120mm Minute on it, but little skeptical of going to that long a fork, think doing a 100mm would be the ticket and still slack enough for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    ................Saturday Update: I think the best way to avoid cutting my steerer tube too short on the KM rigid fork and regretting it is to just leave it as is. You guys are right on that......................

    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon with one 5mm spacer under the stem to account for what it will feel like with the lower headset cup plus 5mm+ or King 5mm crown race I will need to get the poplock adjuster knob to fit under the downtube. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.

    I'll save the rigid fork for possible other options and not cut it.

    BB
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  35. #585
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    NIce Monkey, wit ha chopped saddle
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  36. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Solution? I threw the old REBA Race set at 100mm on this afternoon. This is the ticket as I much prefer the slackened out HT angle and the cush up front. The old REBA I can cut without any qualms and it all feels great.



    And in reverse...




    Feels pretty good.

    It certainly gives me an idea of what the newer XL frame with the 20mm longer head tube and the 100mm REBA would feel like - as I could easily run that combo on the new frame with 0 spacers, and probably 10-20mm of spacers if/when using the rigid fork. Pictured above is the 100mm REBA and I used 20mm of spacers below the stem to raise it up.

  37. #587
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    Looks great. I've been meaning to move my reba up to 100mm for a while.

  38. #588
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    Figured I would throw mine in here.
    It is a 16"
    Thompson seatpost and stem
    Salsa bars
    Sram levers
    Brooks Saddle
    Truvativ crank
    Basic Shimano wheels
    BB7's
    and Kenda Slant Six tires

    Gotta love the Monkey

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/90863631@N02/8253950356/" title="km by krayz605, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8253950356_564a747276_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="km"></a>

  39. #589
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    Switched out from my 1st generation Campstove Green KM to a new Stretchpants Black one today. Put a 2.4 Ralph in the rear as well, cleaned up my components and swapped out to Crank Brothers BB I had in the parts bin.




    Flipped...


    Last edited by BruceBrown; 03-12-2014 at 05:31 AM.

  40. #590
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    uhhhhhhh.......

    just picked up a complete km SS off ebay to go w/my geared km and geared ogre. does anyone know if the the surly rear hub is english or metric threaded? side by side km pics coming up in a few weeks.

  41. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by nativeson View Post
    just picked up a complete km SS off ebay to go w/my geared km and geared ogre. does anyone know if the the surly rear hub is english or metric threaded? side by side km pics coming up in a few weeks.
    Straight off the Surly site: "Our hubs have ISO standard threads: 1.375"x 24 TPI (34.92mm x 1.058mm)"

    *edit* link didn't work, you've got the info right there anyway ^

    Just about any modern hub is going to have that threading because it is the ISO standard now. You'll run into different threadings on older bikes and some foreign stuff.

  42. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Switched out from my 1st generation Campstove Green KM to a new Stretchpants Black one today. Put a 2.4 Ralph in the rear as well, cleaned up my components and swapped out to Crank Brothers BB I had in the parts bin.


    Any noticable difference you've er....noticed....between the new and old frames?

  43. #593
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    I have 1 of each, both set up similar but early one fixed and the new one ss. I find the new one much more lively, happy to leave the ground at any opportunity whereas the old brown one is more stable.
    I even queried it with Surlyand Eric replied; "There have been some slight tubing changes throughout the years on the Karate Monkey, but it’s really not something you can feel per se. We did lighten up the fork a touch, so maybe that’s what you’re feeling. Not sure entirely. I’d just go with it and claim a superior sense of geometric minutia sensitivity".
    I'd be interested if it's just me or if anyone else thinks there is a difference...........

  44. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob1035 View Post
    Any noticable difference you've er....noticed....between the new and old frames?
    Rides exactly the same - at least in terms of feel and handling.

    Noted differences include:

    •Longer head tube on the newest frame (positive for me).

    •Disc brake only which rules out certain configurations I used on the older frame (I knew that going into it, so I won't label it a negative or a positive).

    •About 4mm wider in the chainstay area which allows use of a Ralph 2.4, Ardent 2.4, Nic 2.35, etc.... back there without experiencing rub (positive).

    •Cable routing is under the top tube (I'm going to call that a negative as the entire weight of the cable is on the zip ties which is not a problem for hydraulic disc brakes, but is not the best support system for cable pull mechanical disc brakes - I broke the front zip tie on test ride number one).

    •Seatpost collar is not as sturdy and strong as the older model (negative).

    •Rear disc brake mounts are in a better location to allow for rear wheel removal without having to loosen the caliper mounting bolts (positive).

    *Lugs at the TT/HT juncture on the new frame (negative in terms of looks for me, positive for those who dig lugs).

    •On the old frame, my grips would contact the TT if turning the wheel which is nothing to worry about in terms of frame scratching. On the new frame with the bars at the same exact height, the brake levers hit the TT which could case a scratch or two. No biggie, but it illustrates that the TT is lower than on the older frame - at least in size XL.

    All of that being said, I have not yet tried the rigid fork that came with the new frame. I will be interested to do that to compare as I have 9 years of riding the old frame as a rigid under my belt, and only a couple of weeks with a suspension fork.

    Net-net, I'd say the positives were worth the upgrade for me.

    BB
    Last edited by BruceBrown; 12-15-2012 at 05:35 AM.

  45. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post

    •Seatpost collar is not as sturdy and strong as the older model (negative).


    BB
    Can you tell me a bit more about this ?

    Tnx.

  46. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010 View Post
    Can you tell me a bit more about this ?

    Tnx.
    Sure. The old seat post collar is pretty heavy duty with a larger bolt and hence, the need for a larger hex key than the newer, shiny silver metal one that takes a more normal size bolt and hex key. I'm always afraid to crank down too hard on the smaller hex key bolts than I am on the massive ones for fear of breaking the bolt (which I have done before on several occasions on various bikes and seat post collars). The older one is massive, sturdy and is a no-fuss collar. I kind of liked that. The newer one is a nice bling bit, but require a bit more finesse and fuss IMO.

    I could always swap out my collars, but it's not that big of a negative. I just have to be careful not to be too ham-fisted. In terms of industry standard - the newer KM collar is probably more in line with a typical collar than their older one which was - as I said - heavy duty.

    BB

  47. #597
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    Tnx for the info.
    I don't know how the older ones look like or are different from the newer ones.
    And in the past i have snapped a few bolts as well, including the one on a seatcollar.

  48. #598
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    I just spent some good quality time digging through this whole thread in search of some AM-leaning KMs. I'm a little suprised there were only 1 or 2 that came close, and a ton that look more like CX bikes.
    I'm currently running a 100mm tora that I had leftover from my Paragon while I wait for the 120mm tower pro to get here.

    Has anyone else run a 120mm fork?
    I love this bike, and every time I ride it I'm more impressed. My main bike is a 7" reign so when I hop on the KM I tend to get shaken to pieces on the downhill sections. (luckily the bike is always as solid and unfazed as the day I got it). I honestly can't wait to get some more squish up front. I realize the frame was only intended for a 100mm fork, but Surlys = unbreakable tanks and I'm not worried. I'm also looking forward to a little higher BB, but not the slacker ST angle.

    I'll be able to post pictures soon (@ work now).

  49. #599
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010 View Post
    Tnx for the info.
    I don't know how the older ones look like or are different from the newer ones.
    And in the past i have snapped a few bolts as well, including the one on a seatcollar.
    Glad to hear I'm not the only ham-fisted guy out there.

    In terms of what they look like and how they are different, that's easy.

    Here's the old one (called the Surly Constrictor Seatpost Clamp)...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8274287127/" title="surly-constrictor-med by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8500/8274287127_468a8526a9.jpg" width="350" height="350" alt="surly-constrictor-med"></a>

    And here's the new one (called the Stainless Steel Seatpost Clamp)...

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8274287159/" title="ST0010 by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8216/8274287159_0076eaa9aa.jpg" width="480" height="360" alt="ST0010"></a>

    And of course there are many, many other brands of seat post collars that will fit and work well on the Karate Monkey frame.

    BB

  50. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    I could always swap out my collars...
    Yes is the answer. That bike needs a black collar anyway.

    FWIW, I just broke the bolt to my Surly collar the other night. Your caution is justified.

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